Range Rover L322 TDV8 oil change (suction method) 

You must remove the oil filler cap while the pump is operating or a partial vacuum forms that makes the oil flow very slowly

Love your videos, I can sit front of the computer for whole day and watch oil change video. 😂😂😂👌👌👌

To speed up the pumped oil change, get the engine fully hot and reduce the required lift by locating the old oil canister on the floor. Once you get the pipes filled, the siphon effect then aids the pump's action. Cars will vary but the Mercedessource channel showed that even draining oil through the sump plug leaves oil behind and the was nothing in it between the two approaches. By the way - if your battery can't supply 5 amps for less than an hr without going flat - you need a new battery :)

trouble with the suction method is that you will never get any sludge out of the sump - which is likely to occur if neglected oil changes....always drain oil out the sump when warm as it will take some of the crap out with it...get you sump bungs replaced ready for your next oil change....

With the turbos this engine has got, regular oil service is an absolute must. I never exceed 15000 km intervals. A vise-grip is plenty good to get that old plug out. When you suck it out, you never get the flow that will bring the contaminations that may be present at the bottom of the sump. And those are the very ones that is eventually going to clog your pickup. I usually buy my service kits from British Parts. Then I get an air-filter, pollen filter, fuel filter, oil filter and a new oil plug. But sure: The suction method is 100 times better than no oil change!

Just did mine with a manual pump however removed the oil filler cap and sucked it out in no time (Via the dip stick tube , or what should be on 4.4 TDV8) Good video. Thank you

Hi really enjoying the video series. Just one point on the oil change, would you not consider filling with 5w 50 weight oil seeing as there are 160k miles on the engine, 5w 30 is a bit light in my opinion. Mick 👍🍻

I also use this method, but just to remove about two liters engine oil as soon as its volume raises due to diesel coming into it normaly caused by DPF regeneration process. After that, just add some new oil. For complete oil exchange, you need to use the drain plug, otherwise new oil and new filter will be contaminated immediately when you start the engine.

I burned out a couple of these pumps, manual vac extraction much better. Also best to drive around to get the oil contaminants in suspension before sucking it out.

Try tapping a socket on the sump bung or if that fails try a pair of stillsons, if all else fails use a cold chisel on the bungs thicker end. Look it up on RU-vid how to unfasten a bolt with a chisel

It looks like the plastic pipe is curling up from how it's come packaged. I would imagine when fed down the dipstick tube it starts to curl again and isn't hitting the bottom or curling up as it does touch. The hand pump one I purchased is a much more rigid plastic with a steel liner inside the last few inches to avoid this.

Are you happy with this Mannol 5w30 7511 engine oil? How many miles do you keep it?

Nice video. Would have liked to see the oil pan plug...as a reference to how bad it looked.

The only problem I could see in that is, if the pipe when it’s down there bends up at the end like they do. You could still have about 2 inches of oil left in the bottom and that’s where most of the crap will be.

If in real doubt as to whether or not all the sludge has come out surely the best thing to do is drain and remove the sump then clean it out and replace with new gasket.

If that nut is rounded, just weld new nut to it and open. Then replace plug. Draining engine oil from diesel engine, let all soot and metal particles to live happily in sump, destroying engine slowly, in between oil changes.

Is that mannol stuff any good?? I used Castrol in my rrs, but gona try some mannol In My tdi golf, apparently manufactured in Lithuania and hq in Germany

Hello, the HC Synthese oil is not fully synthetic, the Mannol Energy Premium 5W30 is though.

You haven’t removed the any filings that maybe in the sump or removed all the oil from the sump - don’t think the sump pump is really a good way of doing the job - but thanks for the video

Well having blitzed through your videos on the Range Rover review , I have decided to give the vehicle that I won on eBay a miss. They are in no doubt a brilliant vehicle but I would need a very large farm to really enjoy such a machine.

Think on these tdv8,s and the way both sump plugs are youl get more out with extraction Over 8.5 litres out last time

There is two sumps on a tdv8 you must drain both

I use this pump, you need the engine oil hot , and it will suck the lot out in 5 mins

The range rovers engine oil should be changed at every 3,000 miles on the clock without the need of the new oil filter( if new from the previous oil change) and manual hand siphoning pump (oil extractor ) is recommended for faster siphoning ...

Are the cheap pumps robust enough if you heat the oil a little too much to aid flow. I.e. Are the pump internals likely to melt!

Did you get the full 10 litres out of the engine?

I tried using the method you are using but only managed to extract 5.5l, how did you get the rest out, I couldn't get the tube down any further?

I use a proper sealey extractor awesome and quick

Hi mate do I put the new filter into the cap / lid then screw it in or do I put it into the engine part first then screw cap down onto it so it clips in I been told one way is wrong from to different people but they both said different one said engine first and the top screws down and clips in and the other said clip it into the lid and screw it in hope this made some sort of sense to you 😂😂 please help

Should of got the nut changed .. rounded nuts are a no no ..

For less money buy a sump plug lol

you would be better off removing and replace with new sump plug,