Today's video contains a long ramble from me, but hopefully it is useful to somebody else out there.
First I'll give you guys a few tips on what to do before you install a new or refurbished pump.
Check that the inlet banjo bolts fits without issues.
Check that you can loosen the rear timing bolt without the larger triangular bolt comes off.
Make sure the pump otherwise looks undamaged.
Check for leaks by attaching the inlet pipe and return line, and then run the in-tank fuel pump by jumping relay 12 for a few minutes. Observe for any leaks.
Make sure the woodruff key on the pump axle fits into the groove on the engine sprocket. You can use your phone camera and record and review the alignment. It helps to make a small mark in the rotor or use some paint.
I had a few of these issues with my new refurbished pump so I had to return it for another one.
After making sure the pump aligns well with the woodruff key and sprocket, I had some hunting issues with the new pump. The engine would not idle properly and large amounts off unburnt fuel came out the exhaust.
If I disconnected the needle sensor the engine would idle great but at 1300-1400 RPM. Engine response was perfect.
With my diagnostic unit I noticed the crank speed and engine speed (needle lift sensor) was way different. The crankspeed was steady and seems right. However the needle lift sensor would report 400-800 RPM in a very random fashion. That's why I disconnected the sensor.
I knew this engine ran fine, strong and solid before I replaced the pump so I had doubts that either sensor was bad.
After searching for some clues I found a thread on a forum that helped me get an idea of what it could be.
Sorry I meant Landy Zone.co.uk, not Range Rovers.net in the video. Here's the thread that gave me hints and tips to solve the hunting idle: www.landyzone....
I adjusted the quantity adjustment mechanism, the top part of the pump. I did this by backing off the 4 bolts holding it down just a little bit. Note that you'll need a special triangular socket for the 4th bolt which goes through the top lid as well. Don't loosen the top lid, but the lower 3 bolts. Then gently tap with a rubber mallet forward or backwards until the engine idles properly.
Of course make sure the static (FIP timing) is set at 0.90 or 0.95 mm ( please see video # 96 • Range Rover P38 # 096 ... ) before you do any of this.
With the engine warmed up adjust until you get the properly idle speed and make sure the gas pedal responds as it should. Retighten the bolts carefully not to disturb the adjustment. It only takes microscopic adjustments to make great changes.
I'll leave you with a run-through of the live data from my diagnostic unit at the end. Please note that I've not set the static / FIP timing perfectly or fine-tuned the quantity adjustment at this moment so the values are to be used at your own discretion.
You can reach me at gamuso@gmail.com if you want to get in touch with me.
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Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this video interesting.
20 окт 2024
