In this episode I show how to time the engine and fit the cam belt and HP fuel pump belt. Engine gets almost fully assembled and is nearly ready to go back into the car.
Good evening! I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the videos you made because it helps me a lot because I also have a Jaguar with the same engine that I have to repair. These videos help me a lot, thanks again for saving 50 pounds for the workbook. God bless you 🙂🙂😇😇
Epic episode 👍👍 Great stuff. It is coming together very well. Glad to see Sid got his hands dirty too. Thanks for another great video Steve. You should be teaching this stuff. Cheers
It's like watching Picasso with his art set, a joy to watch, very therapeutic and takes me back to first watching my dad take apart the engine in my sister's Vauxhall Viva, put me on the path to 45 years of working on my own cars, never to reach your level of skill and knowledge though, just subscribed 👍
Luckily I found how to install back the left toothed cam wheel as when I looked carefully on the back of the wheel I saw the markings of the exact image on the cam shaft plate . So one headache out of the way. Then I install the belt and made on full turn on the camshaft wheel bring the left cam for the pin to go in. Removed the cam belt and turn the right cam intake till I got the second pin in. Now both pins are in place. Then turn the crank clockwise till I saw the first hole (Bit oval) ( as there are three holes in the flywheel . 1 little oval , 2 round , 3 little oval . I tried No2 but engine stuck when turning by hand. Then tried No.1 . I had the 2 Cam pins in and the tool on the flywheel hole No.1. Install the cam belt using your procedure. remove the crank tool and the 2 pins. Turn the crank 2 times while the cam wheels turned one time. Insert the 2 pins in the camshaft and the one on the flywheel and all fitted nicely. So it seems it is OK. But still waiting for a friend from Jaguar to have a look at it before I start to be sure 200%. Thank you again for your kind assistance. This was a nightmare. God bless you for your kind assistance.
Hiya , bless u and thanks so much for taking the time to explain that to me ref the hydraulic tappets , extremely grateful and see you’ve made some great progress , very impressed in how u know where it all goes , bet u can’t wait to finally get it back in the disco , thank u once again for making these videos , are extremely informative stay safe and well , Gary 👍👍
thanks Mate, this vid of timing cams is clearer than Christians, I did not think on the sdv6 that the pump belt was timed, however, did you pin the tensioner before you took it off in the begiinning hate modern crap, when I was with CUMMINS the timing chest was gears and I could rebuild say, a 855 cu inch engine in a fraction of the time it takes to rebuild LR
Thank you for the very informative video. Excellent explanation. Please can you tell us how to install the left toothed cam wheel as I removed both tooted wheels . The cams where moved without the belt on. Big mistake. This was done due lack of experience. The right one ( I think is the intake) is no problem as it has only position for the pin to go in. But the left one (I think is the exhaust) has two or three positions . The question is, which position it should go in.
In the bottom of the filter housing there is a little spring clip a rubber plug on it that opens when you change the filter. Check this is ok and is sealing when the filters fitted. if its not it will allow the filter housing to empty when the engines not running.
Super video! I will rebuild my engine in the next time. Can you or anyone help me with a supplier for the new mainbearing bolts. The manual says to use new bolts. These are expansive bolts as you have to Turn further 90 degrees.
@@lr3wedgev832 I have looked everywhere for them, even different engines with the same bolts with similar torque and can't find any. spoke to Turner engineering and they along with everyone else say to reuse them but only once. it does seem wrong but there is no choice. believe parts are soon to become more available now ford are using the engine in there F150 pickups and are listing these type of pars and Cranks. If you have any luck in finding any let me know.
@@Parastorm. Hi y, I found the bolts in the US. Please have a look at www.tascapartrs.com Choose " Ford F150 MY2018 Titanium " there you can find all the engine parts are need with nice prices. All the bolts and also the new crankshaft and engineblock.
Another great video guys, don’t know if you showed it or not, but did you check the turbo? It looks a bit tired looking, I’d presume you did, as you are very meticulous. Fantastic job 👏
Hi Steve, my car is in the garage and we turned the crank and the tensioner on the chain started moving up and down as I seen in your video, could this be the cause of my tapperty noise? Thanks Darren
Hi Steve, I was charged 1800 euro for the following, full timing belt change, aux belt and tensioners, hydraulic tappets, fuel pump belt, rocker gaskets, oil change, cam tensioner. It turned out that the noise was coming from the cam belt tensioner, it was a mess. Thanks Darren
When you put those cams back in.. It didn't look like yo had them marked to match on tooth to chain?? You just kind of put them together.. Did I miss something?? Besides that.. My 2016 RRS TD6 seems to have a dead oil level sensor.. The only video I can find in on a bit older model and it looks like pure hell to change.. Might be better to pull the motor than to pull apart the universal joints, differential and what other crazy just to put that conical piece of plastic in.. Might it be better to just fabricate a dipstick and run it up the side and pin it to the body.. Just drain and refill to exact specifications and make a custom end that marks the full just to avoid the nightmare.. . Your thoughts?
I see the vid is from Nov 2020 but can you tell me what is the model year of the engine that you are working on please..... Thank You... Really enjoy watching and listening to your vids ... Great work !
Hi Steve and subscribers, could someone help me with this question? If the TDV6 3.0L has a plastic timing belt that drives one of the cam of each bank (exhaust), and in turn a short chain per cylinder head to transfer the drive from the exhaust cam to the intake cam. If the plastic belt is cut/split, does it mean that the camshafts would maintain their synchronism through the chain, and therefore there would be no damage inside the engine (pistons, valves, camshaft, cylinder head)?
I've seen in the past engine builders mark the nut or bolt with a small dab of white paint to indicate they've tightened each part. Just in case they miss one I assume? Has that practice ceased as I don't see that nowadays?
Currently have a 08 sport on the lift with body removed to do timing belts, rocker covers, oil pump , brake pipes and suspension arms, I’ve just come across plastic bit which appear to be from the chain tensioner ! Can chain tensionera be replaced without removing both cams from both heads .....? I’ve belt all timed up and I’d like to avoid having to take it off again.....!
Hi, guys thx for the great video, I learned a few good things from it, but one question remains ☺️. How do you make sure to meet the timing of the rear belt drive, if you are not using the special tool? BR Peter
But if you don’t fix the pump with the special tool in a certain position, how do you get the correct position or angle on camshaft pulley and therefore the correct timing?
@@petermusch5898 set the engine to the timed position. No need to lock it if you're not removing the front belt then line up the marks on the pump belt.
@@pistonbroke Thank you!! TDV8 is what Im interested in. Will a 2010/11/12 TDV8 HSE facelift cab be a straight swap to a 2005 Frame? Im in a country where 2010/11/12/13 TDV8 costs 25X as much as 2005 TDV6 due to taxes. But body swaps are legal. I plan on swapping engine gear diff from TDV8 donor frame to TDV6 frame (need to keep original frame for legal purposes - thats the whole point) and then swap the cab as a whole to facelift TDV8 2011.
@@pistonbroke I just need the 2005 basic frame to be same as 2010/11/12 TDV8 frame. Subframe etc components can be swapped. Any guidance you have for me?
Ciekawe jak teraz włożysz ten plastik co przychodzi za górną rolką od rozrzadu na pewno znajdzie się w koszu na śmieci I jeszcze w dwóch taki silnik skręcać ciekawe ile części Ci zostało z silnika
@@krzysztofsulowski4011 Tak, obróć je do końca zgodnie z ruchem wskazówek zegara. To pozwoli im obracać się w kierunku przeciwnym do ruchu wskazówek zegara podczas napinania paska. Użyłem do tego tłumacza google, więc przepraszam, jeśli wyszło źle!
Hey brother hope you doing well, I have a 2016 Range Rover 3.0 diesel turbo and I’m getting all cylinders misfiring and engine starts, idlers with a lot of vibration but pretty steady, and you press the accelerator pedal and engine does nothing. Any ideas? Thank you
Hi Steve I've changed my oil pump today however after rotating the crank two rotations the fly wheel pin goes straight in and the left cam pin the also but the right cam pin doesn't, I can get the end of the pin in the cam aperture if I force it but it seems to just be off centre as if the aperture is about 1mm to the left. can you give me any advice please? Kind Regards Rhys.
Leave the belt tensioned, put the crank pin and left cam pin in, loosen the 3 13mm bolts on the right cam sprocket just enough so that you can turn the cam with an 18mm spanner, turn the cam till you can get the pin in, tighten the 3 13mm bolts, take all the pins out, turn the engine 2 turns and pin it again to see if it all lines up.
@@pistonbroke Is there a specific positioning of camshafts in both cylinders, and can the rear timing belt (smaller) affect the timing if is not positioned like you showed on the video. The reason is because I didn't remove the body so it's difficult to see.
@@Ruralkingmusiq pump belt on the 2.7 is not timed. Yes the cams need to go in in a timed position, writing facing up, there are marks on the rear cam gears that line up with coloured links on the chain. Check out the other vids in this series, I've covered this.
Hi have you done a video of doing the fuel pump whilst the engine is in the car? Is this possible or do you need to take the engine out. I have enquired this with a garage and they inform me that the engine needs to be out. Thanks
Hi, no I haven't done a video on this but I can tell you that the engine doesn't need to come out. There was a recall on the hp fuel pumps in around 2007/8 and I was doing them in about 2 hours. It's a fiddly job but definitely doable with the engine in.
12:05 what is it ? What is the name ? It is needed for replace oil pump and unscrew crankshaft bolt ? If think I need it buy but I don't know how find it. Regards from Poland.
@pistonbroke another question is ,why the pump belt have two marks on it, it won't be like old diesel have 6 outlet pipe, should be just one out pipe to both fuel rails?
My 2.7 rattles loudly for a few seconds when I start it if I haven't run it for a few days. Is that normal or does it mean it has a worn tappet? I think if it's not been run for just an hour or two it doesn't do it.
That is the timing chains in the heads rattling. The oil has run back to the sump and when you start it, the oil has to fill the oil filter again before circulating the engine. The lack of oil on start up causes the tensioners to go slack and the chains will rattle. This momentary lack of oil will cause wear to the crankshaft and bearings. See part 1 of my discovery 4 engine rebuild. I explain it there. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NaGg_qDd5L8.html
@@pistonbroke I think you said in that video that any wear in the oil pump allows oil to run back to the sump and the rattle is due having to wait for the filter to refill because of that. Excuse me if I miss quote you. I bought mine at about 100,000 miles. As soon as I bought it I fitted a new genuine oil pump (the updated one with stronger tensioner boss) and timing belt. It made no difference to the startup rattle. The car now has over 160,000 miles and it still does it, but it doesn't seem to have done it any harm. I'm not sure about your theory because when I do an oil and filter change it takes ages for the oil pressure warning light to go out, but on a cold start the light goes out straight away, so clearly the oil filter doesn't empty very much overnight. I used to have a Passat TDI that rattled on cold start and with those it was considered normal, so I just assumed that the 2.7 is the same. Should I worry about it.?
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 if you look online there's not many of these engines that go much over your mileage. I'd just keep changing the oil frequently and keep your eye out for things getting worse. The crank can snap with no notice or it can spin a bearing with no notice. Not trying to scare you just saying not worth worrying about.
@@denniscronin1112 mine is in a Jag so it gets an easier life. Most of the time it's cruising on the motorway under 2000rpm. It's not my only car so if something goes bang I can take it off the road and pull the engine. You don't have to pull the body off like a Disco either.
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 I had the same in my XJ got to 155k then started to have issues so moved it on. Shame because when its running right it was lovely.
As long as the pins are in correctly, fit the belt then turn by hand and make sure it rotates properly, realign and refit the pins to make sure it's still timed.
I match all timings and now injectors no working and firing so car can't start and no fault code in powertrain i check wiring also in injectors coupler current not display what I do next
@@pistonbroke honestly I have seen some videos from you and you guys explained more things about the Discovery then all the guys that I have seen. Thank you for the video.
@@pistonbroke Hi friend. I am from brazil. I worked on Land Rover Company when I was 23 years old. I am thinking to come back to work with this brand again. The main problem with this Engine is spare parts. Do you know anyone who send land rover genuine parts to me. I have watched all episodes about this Engine. Congrats. Do you have e-mail?