Range Rover Sport: Restricted Performance issue!! 

I was going to do a smoke test but on mine source of the lead was clear as you can see in the video. I agree on using plastic on such components and for such a premium car. (I'll check out your video)

I've heard a few people use epoxy or similar to seal the crack with good results. Not sure how long it lasts, but certainly worth a try. I remember the guy on LR time channel doing it, seeing it as a a temporary fix. I paid £930 at my local indy..... Hope it lasts. Cheers David

So how did it go ?

Hi, in my view, yes they are, especially at the price they are now. They do have issues like most cars, but most are niggly. If I was buying one now I would buy one with full (or relatively full) service history, timing belts changed, Gear box service, check inlet manifolds are ok, prop shaft rubber has not perished (easy to see, or clonk on acceleration). Let me know if you need any info.

Thanks for the comment. I knew there was a good chance of this issue popping up (and others) before I bought the car......but then it's the same with any car really.....except for Toyota!!! The thing that initially springs to mind is the throttle cable and it's the first thing I would look at. A quick diagnostic may help track something down. As you saw in the video I used a diagnostic tool and find it pays for itself after a couple of uses. I had a Z4 a few years back and used an iCarsoft tool and sold it for 2/3 of what I paid....... Love to hear if you find out the issue. I'll be doing a followup video soon and some others on my RRS. Cheers David

@@davidbaugh Thank you once again, much appreciated. I've ordered the same diagnostics tool you use and recommend, hopefully it will arrive within a few days. Regarding the gas pedal you are probably right, I'll need to analyze further. It can also be the sensor behind the pedal that regulates the throttle body and ECU. I'll start by cleaning the throttle body, EGR-valve and MAF. I'm booked for both front link arms so I'll have the mechanic take a look at the gas pedal as well. I'll make sure to reply back when the issue is sorted. Looking forward to your next video! Kind regards from Sweden, Aleksander

And yet £1230 fully comp! Love the sport and again so glad for your videos. 👍🏼

Touch wood..... never had any issues with the Turbos and yes I wouldn't fancy the bill either. I had my belts done for the same reason. I'll be doing a full service soon and tackling a few jobs I should have done earlier....just niggles. Hmmmmm Insurance, I just insured my RRS yesterday. Last year I paid approx £540 up about £200 on the previous year. I had a letter from the insurance company 3 weeks ago saying "we are unable to offer a renewal quote based on your current details" So back on the search...... Used the comparison sites and the cheapest a few weeks ago came in at £680 Fully comp for me (62yr, SDP, Full NCB, B44 postcode,Retired 4k miles, Parked on a drive) Yesterday I searched again yesterday as it's due next week and the same insurer via a comparison site was £529.......go figure!!! I had the same last year it seems that day to day the quotes vary (like booking flights) so I'd check every day if you have the time. It may be that I don't commute every day...but Ive just re entered a change on the site and it now quotes £521 Tesco insurance, the next best is £762 then loads in the mid £800's. If I increase the annual mileage to 12K the cost is £629. The best I can say, and I do this every year, is to check prices every day for a week or so if you have the time. All the Best, hope you find a good deal. David

I agree they can be frustrating cars to own at times, but are addictive and hard to move on to another car.... I need to change my prop shaft bush soon but I'll tackle that myself. On you're Horn issue, have you checked the fuse?

@@davidbaugh Haha! I also have that on my list. My local Range Rover specialist workshop however suggest to change the whole propshaft instead of just doing the bushing, as they always had bad experience with that and customer complaints shortly after the job was done.

Hmmmm, from what I have seen the prop shaft has to be put back in exactly the same position/orientation to the diff flanges as it was removed otherwise it can cause vibration being out of balance. Have a look at a couple of videos on the process, bit fiddly but doable I think.

@@davidbaugh Yes, exactly, but apparently it's not that easy and it might wore out much quicker than intended if not done 100% right. Also I can understand the view point of the mechanic as well, because the disassembly of a 13 year old propshaft doesn't sound very easy. Getting out the old and installing the new, they only charge 1 hour of labor.

That one also caused a Restricted Performance error for me. Then it was changed and still the same, so the workshop just disabled this functionality...

Thanks Ceri, these things happen. If JLR had made the inlet manifolds out of metal instead of plastic it would have saved owners a lot of pain and better bank balance. As you probably saw I had my filter housing changed a few years ago. The diagnostic tools are quite pricey but can pay for itself very quickly.

Could you specify what a body off is?

@@recarored9862 Lifting the body off the chassis to give better access to the engine. This should explain it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ysmRjeeAW9E.htmlsi=dFA7JAcaeChThDLY

Thanks Mark, here's a link to his website... jmblandroverservices.co.uk He also has a fb page. I've used JMB since I got my RRS and highly recommend him.

Brilliant 👍🏼

Rough estimate for price? I’ve got the same issue

I've been quoted £750.

Also can you send me the link, where I can find them ?

Many thanks. I suppose once the jobs are done you know they won't have to be done again and you're improving it, for your ownership. With regards to the Restricted performance issue.....it could be a range of things, but if it's fleeting and doesn't go into limp mode it's difficult to figure out what it is unless it says on the dash. It may be just a dodgy sensor, but needs to be diagnosed. I suggest getting a diagnostics tool, the one I use in the video is very good. I have bought an iCarsoft tool for the last 3 or 4 cars I have had and they can save you a lot of money. If it's just a sensor you can change it yourself if not then at least you can identify what the issue is. When I change my car I sell the diagnostic tool, so it pretty much pays for itself on its first use. Hope you can find the issue, I've had an intermittent Restricted Performance warning before and it makes you twitchy when using the car. Cheers David

I've seen a few people use JB weld as a temporary fix, and I considered it, but decided to get the upgraded manifold fitted. I know that the other manifold may go at some point but it looks good.

Cracked inlet manifold is a very common issue. Yes, a smoke test will tell you where the leak is but, in this case the source of the leak was clear. Oil escaping from the crack is a tell tale and is the usual indicator of a cracked manifold. The oil would be the fuel I would guess. The replacement has been done, faults cleared and a test drive shows that everything, at the moment is good. no turbo problem..

So its fuel not oil . bad call by you@@davidbaugh

It is oil and carbon from the EGR feeding it back into the inlet manifold from the exhaust.

​@@stevejones2121stevejones,the expert at nothing.

Another rude ass hole @@ivanfernyhough3851

Very common issue, should have been made out of Aluminium!!

@@davidbaugh Apparently there is a metal version available from China or AliExpress. I’ve not known anyone to fit it yet though.

Get a diagnostics done to find the reason...

@@davidbaugh just brought the diagnostic machine. Thank you

@davidbaugh hi can I ask you today the message came up exhaust filter full, and performance restricted . I was reading comments and saying you need to drive on the free way 30 mins to clean filter is that true

Yes.I have had a similar problem in that if you only make short journeys then the DPF (diesel particulate filter) can become blocked and needs to be cleared, you can do this by running on the motorway/Freeway at cruising speed for 30mins or soand the filter should clear (worked for me) or some diagnostics readers can put the filter through a self clean, however I prefer the first method. However it may be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculating) valve getting blocked and needs cleaning which I would get done by a Garage/workshop. It sounds to me like the DPF which you can clear by giving the car a good run. Hope you can get it sorted.

@davidbaugh thank you, yes I drive locally, if the triangle is red it says exhaust filter full take dealer ,it not dangerous to drive on the free way it won't cause damage. I really appreciate your reply

Yes thanks, on the mend.