To anyone trying to install one of these or the midwest and your factory foregrip is on extremely tight the best advice I got was to just keep trying to work it off because mine took two days to remove. For two days there wasn't even a tiny bit of movement then last wiggle I gave it and it came off.
Great video. Just got it installed today on my new 1895 Trapper and this video was extremely helpful. Ranger Point has upgraded the handguard since your video. They now have separate models for the end cap and barrel band versions so the unused screw holes are eliminated. They also added 4 additional mounting/support screws which makes the mounting even stronger.
5:00. Getting that little piece installed was the most frustrating thing i've ever done. SO TIGHT. First and last time i ever mess with one of my guns, anything else can go straight to the gunsmith to do it.
Just a heads up ( no pun intended, it will be funny by the end) on the marlin dark the screws are pretty much all security torx screws, so if you plan to modify yours as I wanted to do to mine, most kits don’t include these heads you have to buy them separately unless you get the pricier kits. So I opened up my Chapman kit ,realized none of the mentioned heads were in it and just ordered the extra heads for it. so do that first, so you aren’t stuck putting all your stuff back for what you thought would be a fun time building.
Oh yeah and im going for all the bells and whistles at RPP i want a new sight set and quick take down screw along with a couple of those 3round ammo holders! all in Brass! Oh and a new trigger!!! lol Although i think ill keep the safety.
You're welcome! It is an RP buttstock, but they are no longer available. Have to find them second hand now. I haven't done a video on it yet. I will do a full overview on the rifle setup soon though and go over all the parts. Thanks for watching!
I know this is an old video, but...are you staking the metal on the tenon, or on the barrel itself? Wouldn't think you'd want to gouge the actual barrel metal/dovetail, but???
@@buildhuntxplore Thank you! How about the front mag tube tenon? Mine is so loose it falls out on its own. Does it need to be staked or stay loose so it can align itself when forend tenon is staked?
P.S. i like that rifle rack behind you by the way! I like the way it holds the rifles so that are reciever out vs grabing at the trigger side of the rifle when collecting it! Nice
I got the end tube and spring out but I can't remove the magazine tube! This is honestly making me never want to buy Marlin product again. Can you show how to remove the mag tube, because I sure as hell can't get it off.
I agree. The wood furniture looks fantastic. But one of the good things about a stainless is you can get it wet if absolutely necessary. Wood on the on the other hand, even if it's sealed when you get it, isn't good to get wet, since over time the sealed layer will wear away if you use the rifle a lot. So by replacing the wood with polymer and aluminum, you set yourself up to not have to worry about anything on the firearm getting water damage when its a rainy hunting day. Also, come's with M-LOK Mounting points, so you can mount a sling in different configurations if that tickles your fancy, or maybe attach a light or even night vision, not that either of those are really necessary on a lever gun IMO.
I love the wood stocks too, but here in SC it has been raining so much in the last few years. This truly makes the gun all-weather without much worry. Plus, I do really enjoy the added grip area and oval cutouts helping me get a secure grip in those wet times.
Hey Brian With respect to the Tenon I think I made a boo boo, I thought I hade taken enough material off, as I had it half way however it’s now 2/3rd way through but super tight should I know it back out and take more off as it’s so tight, I feel I might have stuffed it. Appreciate your thoughts..
I was wondering if you could give a list of tools necessary for the gunsmithing, I have a tool kit or two but don’t know if a regular set of bits is good for gun smithing
I will work on putting something together for a video and show everything. For the bits, you definitely want a set of hollow ground bits. They are not tapered like standard straight blade screwdrivers and will fit the screw heads better.
Wolf's Prairie Outdoors thank you for a quick response. I ordered a set, harder than it first appears since most common ones get crappy reviews due to poor materials, but I picked up a Chapman set and a punch and hammer set
Depending on the rifle, yes you may have to do a little work on it. Mine was slightly loose. Just make sure you go slow with any work and you should be fine.
Is that the SBL? I bought fiber front sights for mine from RPP, only to discover that in my rush I totally missed the part where it's the wrong fit. Right rifle, wrong trim. Looks like you've got an adapter to fit the same sight I've got, but I cannot find that anywhere. Could you please tell me what your front sight setup is on this? (Also, great video, really helped with my install. Thank you!)
So I own a marlin Dark in 357. And on the Dark it seems like the forestock is glued in place, removing the end cap doesn't loosen it -at all- I'm trying to work out how to remove it without doing damage if I possibly can...
Hmmm I’m not sure. I haven’t handled a Dark yet, but I have heard of this a few times now. That’s crazy that it’s that tough to get off. I need to get my hands on one and see what’s going on. Wish I could be more help with it, good luck!
I had the same problem with my brand new dark series .357. The foregrip was very tight and I tapped it lightly with a rubber mallet and it came loose. I also had issue with burrs one the inside of the magazine tube. I could not load more than one round. I had to use a dremel tool to deburr the mag tube and it loads very smooth now. Marlin really needs to pay more attention to their quality control. Fit and finish is not great for the money I spent on this rifle. I have the 336 too and that rifle is brilliant out the box. Having said all that I do love the new dark series rifles
@Mark G Yeah it’s crazy how much variance there can be. But, once you get them where they should be, or get a good one from the shop, they are amazing guns that really are a lot fun. Thanks for watching!
@@markg1291 hey, thanks to you I managed to get the forend off! However unfortunately it suffered a little damage, seems it was on so tight that it actually broke a sliver off when I struck it with a mallet... Unfortunate but oh well.
Yep. Got mine yesterday, and easily installed it today on my new 1895 Trapper. This video was extremely helpful, although the handguard has been upgraded. They removed the 2nd set of handguard screw holes that are used on the barrel band models. Makes the handguard look a bit nicer without the unused holes. They also added 4 support screws to make the handguard even stronger.
Can this be installed without changing the tenen? I screwed the pooch and ordered the wrong version and since I'm in Canada it's actually cheaper to send it back to the reseller than cross border order the $12 part!
Did the same thing, while watching this got to the tenon part and realized I ordered wrong. How did this turn out? Not sure if I can just order the tenon or have to order the entire end cap version forearm.
@@MTheroy I contacted RPP and support put the tenen in my cart but the $20 part turns into $100 after tax and shipping and duty etc. I contacted wolverine in Canada where I bought it and the guy offered that if I sent back the parts for the other version he would send me the tenen but I haven’t done it.
So forgive my ignorance but I went to order the m-lock handguard and realized i don’t know if the marlin dark 1895 model is a barrel band model or end cap model for the handguard. Can you answer this
Hope it is okay to keep asking questions. I was thinking about getting a Trijicon MRO patrol optic and putting it on, i was thinking of going for full co witness and replacing the sights with the pop up sights. I believe that would work but would involve replacing the front sight with a picatinny rail and then attaching the front pop up. Does that make sense? And is it an easy process or difficult to swap out the front sight
Sure thing! I can be slow to respond sometimes because the channel is growing quite rapidly, so there are a lot of comments to keep up with, haha. Yeah that makes sense, definitely interesting. Would take some work to make it happen, but could be cool. I've considered something like that in the past, but don't have the tooling available to do it. Good luck!
Hey brother that was a great video! I have a Marlin 1895 Classic, Lever Action, .45-70 Government, 22" Barrel, 4+1 Rds. I have not been able to decide whether to buy the fore end or not but after watching your video i think i can handle it? I just need a soft mallet. And i think ill get a set of those screw drivers? I own several Marlins as well as ARs so they would come in handy! Made me a subscriber! :>)
Great. Been waiting for this as I'm in two minds which to go for. Does this and the other industries hand gaurd fit a jm 1984c model with the barrel band do you know? I'm just conscious mines an older 1894c model from the jm days.
Hey i ended up back where i started as im looking into the mounting of my 6rd quiver on my traditional wooden Marlin in 45/70!?! LOL Although you are making more kind of liking the forend? Although i still cant see why you would want to take off that beautiful piece of front wood? Ill take it if you dont want it?LOL after the quiver i have ot search for a factory new old stock for a Remington 760? The things like brand new as it say in a safe and got cleaned about once a year,for many years. Then all of a sudden my uncle took it out to hunt with in Wyoming and it rained. He must have put it away while it was still a bit wet! :>/ The stock split so bad up the middle i cant fix it! :>( So even though i have a proper new stock on it its an "unfinished" one! So looking for a old/new one as we speak? I have tried a few places but no luck yet? I sat for the video again i liked it i will be checking into a forend although im still not sure i want to take off my wood?
@@buildhuntxplore I actually put mine on a Marlin glenfield 3A, so I won't be too upset if the Midwest losses it was my first project. Actually my dad and I did it watching your tutorial.
Sorry to ask questions but I would really like to know. Why these type of handgaurds? What are the benefits? Arr you looking to mount things on it such as a light or? I do understand the benefits of this kinda stuff on AR's. Even though I prefer the older AR's like the Colt A2 hbar rifles. And the early A2 carbines both with non detachable handles. Oh but I do own other AR's that have Troy and magpul with Aimpoints etc. The lever action however ( being more of a traditionalist) I must be misunderstanding the purpose of these builds. The Marlin or Remlin Dark series with threaded muzzles and all really look odd to me. Having a silencer for hunting applications makes some real sense and on a bolt action it just would be perfect I guess what I am trying to figure out why they are leaning towards the tactical side on lever actions? They seem to cross over that hunting platform into tactical rifles? Is there not enough tactical rifles out there for you folks? Anyway back to the handguard. If you could explain the purpose I would be curious? Also what kind of price is set upon these ? Thank you and awesome video btw.
I honestly did really like the original setup too, but I also fell in love with the stainless/black from doing my 1894 CST so decided to try it here as well. Thanks for watching!
I gotta say. I’m loving all of these comments. If you don’t like what I’m doing. Don’t watch, it’s that simple. It’s pretty sad how many of you are criticizing what I do to guns that I’ve spent my hard earned money on. Instead of trying to strengthen the 2A community, you constantly belittle it with your hate. We as a community are always under attack. Why are making it worse?
@@buildhuntxplore by the way I have a 45-70 lever action Henry All Weather, which is why I was very interested in this video. The Marlin Darks and Henry X models are really nice. I want the Marlin Dark for my collection. Keep up the good work
