Raptor Liner with HVLP Gun - Triumph Spitfire Restoration 

Hey, Trevor. There is not as much gloss because you aren't putting a clear coat on it. So, the bling isn't there. But, as far as the shade, I'm very happy and didn't notice any difference. But, I'm sure it's important you get the tintable stuff

Thank you, Robert. I couldn't find a good overall tutorial for the tintable stuff, so I decided to make my own. Glad you liked it!

Lol, makes a big difference, doesn't it? Thanks!

That is within the tip size that UPol recommends for using an HVLP gun. I think it's 1.8-2.2mm, but I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I split the difference.

Thanks. Very happy with it.

Thanks, Adrian!

Thanks! The stuff has held up really well, too. I'm doing a TR4 that I'll use it on as well. Good luck!

Yes, just the tip (which I couldn't remove, or I would have drilled it out of the gun). My "real" gun, a Devilbiss FLG-4, I only change the tips (range from 1.3mm to 2.2mm), not the air cap. I know this is not the same for other types of guns, but it has worked for me and it was cheap!

I drilled it out to 2mm.

Thanks,Jim. For next time I'll know.

I just looked them up and wow, you sure can! That's pretty cool. Seems like a good investment for all sorts of painting. Thanks!

Thanks, Eric. But, I'm going to drive her like I stole her!!

Hi Randy. I ran the gun at about 28 psi. That was on the regulator at the gun. My compressor was set as high as it could go (about 110 psi) to maximize flow and provide a higher pressure buffer. Thanks!

I have my notes at the garage and I'll get you the quantities when I go back, which should be tomorrow. As far as what kind, I used SPI's Urethane Reducer. I used their base coat red as my tint and they said that their reducer would work fine as well (they used to make bed liner, too, but got out of it). Here's their website: www.southernpolyurethanes.com/. I'll reply to this with quantities tomorrow night (if my old-ass remembers).

Here's what the UPol data sheet says: no more than 10% urethane thinner to reduce texture. For example, if you're mixing by weight for 1000g, use 777g of liner, 223g of hardener and 100g (max) of tint. Then, reduce with another 100g (max) of reducer. Here's a link to the PDF: www.raptorcoatings.com/files/3060/up4800-TDS-EN

@@roundtailrestoration thankyou

frackyou asshat do not reduce it, use a 1.8 tip primer gun shake for two min then slap it in & open fluid all the way up & full fan with a 6 inch distance, make sure you play to get proper pressure up or down to get proper spray oval pattern. If need any other info call txt me, I am a professional with raptor liner & also auto body & paint. Check out my business page Alpha Kustoms on fb to see what I do & please feel free to like & help me grow the new business page. Cell is 780-228-6172 or message on business page if you would like🤘🏼

Kurtis Leney are you sure you don’t need to reduce it if your using a HPLV gun, I am looking at spraying tintable liner on my Jeep and want a less coarse texture

Hi James. I ended up using two full bottles, if I remember right. I went back and did another coat after I started to doubt the mil thickness a bit. Better safe than sorry, I figured. I also did the inside of the boot and the underside of the bonnet and I think that used up another full bottle.

You crazy!! Thanks. I just hope I can remember how to put it all back together.

Yup, you are correct. I didn't mix my "regular" paint by weight, but I was able to find mixing instructions by weight using a U-Pol produced tech sheet. Since I found it easier to mix by weight than by volume using the little marks on the cup (that get covered by the paint product) I took advantage of it. Here's a link to that particular tech sheet: www.u-pol.com/files/6535/rltrsm-TDS-EN-UK

Thanks, Tyler. Car is 100% SPI products, including the color (it's their medium red). For someone who didn't know what they were doing, they were great and their support was even better!

Thanks. Happy with the way that worked out, though I wouldn't use that gun for much else. You can really tell the difference in the quality. Of course, it was only $10.

Hi, Barb. As for air pressure, the compressor was at 120psi and the regulator on the gun was at 29psi. I shot a 2.0mm tip. The fan on the gun was wide open. I didn't record the sting of the flow adjustment, but it was open but not so much that the liner would run when I was shooting my test on the paper. Sorry about that, I was sort of winging it the first time. Thanks for your questions. I have 2 other videos on spraying the raptor liner which may answer more of your questions.

It's been on my car for a few years now. Granted, I only have about 500 miles since restoration, but it's held up okay so far. I have some scratches, but they were my fault. You can scuff this stuff and reshoot it, too, for pretty much ever. I've been happy with it, but I had a really good base (bare metal, than epoxy primer, then this stuff) so I'm sure that's helping.

@@roundtailrestoration that’s what I did . I sandblasted then epoxy primed then shot the raptor liner but I don’t like how easy it scratches or chips . I’m using it for my truck . But I mean it’s gotta be stronger than just painting and clear coating I guess .

@@colt2540 Yes, I think it's stronger. Maybe not better than epoxy, though. I think with a truck, especially depending on where/how you drive it, it may not hold up as well. My little car is only on paved roads in nice weather.

@@roundtailrestoration well now I’m stuck haha . Should I have it re sandblasted ? Underneath the raptor is endura 3:1 epoxy primer . Pretty solid stuff . I just don’t wanna regret anything but pretty upset I’ve wasted money and time.

@@colt2540 No, I'm sorry, I think the Raptor Liner is stronger. I think you'd have to have a really high-solids clear to resist chips and even then, under a truck...I don't think it would hold up. I think you'll be okay. With the epoxy under there you aren't going to risk corrosion. Without getting stuff that's like the old-fashioned rubber-ish undercoating, you're not going to keep it perfect.

Reducer (I supplied) and hardener as part of the UPol kit. I kinda took my chances here. The UPol tech sheet says to only use the pigment portions of a paint. Talking to my supplier (Southern Polyurethanes) they thought their base would work ok. So, I followed the UPol tech sheet exactly for mixing instructions, by weight (www.u-pol.com/files/6535/rltrsm-TDS-EN-UK) and went for it. Seems to be holding up so far.

Thank you for taking the time to respond, great info👍 Like and subscribe

@@rivermetal Thank you!

Hi. Thanks for watching. If you want to send an email to roundtailrestoration66@gmail.com, I'll send you a pic or two of the texture up close. I was really happy with it. I ran "regular" pressure, no different then my normal spraying pressure of the other times I used the HVLP ~ 28psi.

Yes, it's holding up well so far! Thanks for watching.

Good luck. It's forgiving to use, so I'm sure it'll come out great!

What do u recommend to sand it down with? I was thinking 400 grit or go 180?

I'd go with 180, I think. The liner will definitely fill in any sanding scratches and it'll give it more bite than 400 will.

Thanks, Jack. I've been fighting with spilling stuff this whole time. I'll definitely use this tip!!

Chris Fisher one question.... Can i use clear on top the raptor liner? Like a regular car.

Hi, Carlos. I don't see why not, but I haven't done this. I'm pretty happy with how shiny it was. But, reading the Tech Data Sheet (TDS) for the Raptor Liner, it says you can overcoat it with "most modern paint systems". Let it dry for 24 hours, hit it with a scotch brite pad, clean and degrease it and then shoot your paint, clear in your case. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but you may want to email UPol. I did once and they got back to me the next day, with a concise answer, so they seem to have good customer service. Here's a link to the TDS: www.u-pol.com/files/15342/up0821-TDS-EN

Just for color matching purposes. Granted, it was under the car in this video, but I also did the firewall and trunk and wanted the colors to match. That was it.

I got a 4 liter kit and used every bit of it for the entire car (underside, boot and bulkhead). When I decided to do the underside of the bonnet, I had to buy on more liter just in case and I did use some of it. To answer your question, for just the underside, the two coats used up a bit more than 2 liters.

Hi, I made my own. Not too expensive. Here's a link to the video on how I did it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ddE3Ihg_kuM.html. Thanks for watching!

Yes, the smell is very similar. I don't think the smell was as strong, though, probably because the stuff didn't go airborne as much as the epoxy did.

Chris Fisher cannot use it then, due to the neighbor

Bummer.

@@brendonpaulcassarsaguna2006 raptor line his ass

Sure thing! I think you'll really like it.

Carb Tech make sure to prep proper & have it sand blasted, then cleaned & primed heavy then sand proper & then clean & spray!🤘🏼

First, love the user name 🤣. Second, yes I think most do. However, because I was using the hvlp gun, I dug for a bit more information and found a UPol document that also gave weight ratios (in grams) so I used that. It hasn't seen road use yet, so we'll see if it holds up.

Chris Fisher looks like you did your prep work so it should last.

Thanks. I hope so. My first go around with all of this body stuff so I hope I'm overkilling it, actually, so it does hold up. Thanks for watching and your comment!

Thanks, David. Very happy with it.

Yeah, I think I figured that out eventually. One of those things experience brings. Thanks for watching!

Yup, I agree. And that's what I'll do with my TR4. I had the thing laying around, though, and it was only $10, so...

Awesome, Albert! Do a lot of studying and watch some other painters and you'll have no problem. I dare say it's even a bit of fun...if nerve-wracking!

Well, he's got a lot more views then I do, so I'll take that as a compliment! Thanks, glad you liked it!

Got to keep you guys in your toes!

Thanks. Yeah, I tend to do that.

Looks that way!

Yes, I have that problem. Thanks for the feedback!

Yup, I can definitely get going.

Hi AJ. I used Southern polyurethene's slow urethane reducer.

@@roundtailrestoration thanks!