Documenting my restoration of a 1966 Triumph Spitfire and a 1964 Triumph TR4. For detailed write-ups about the restoration process visit www.roundtailrestoration.com
Hi Chris, returning to your distributor and HT lead issue. I think that in the clip you were talking about counter-clockwise rotation while looking down into the cap. However, with that inversion, the relative rotation would of course be clockwise. I have a narrow belt conversion on my 4A; Using dividers I have measured from the machined face of the block to the inner face of the aluminium pulley at 70mm and approximately 80mm to the centreline of the belt. Sorry about the units, but I hope it helps give some peace of mind regarding the location of your pulley
Thanks, Robin. I'll take a look at my wires again. Would surprise me if I got it wrong again. As for the pulley, that 10mm delta is just about what I'm seeing so yes, that makes me feel a bit better. Thanks!
The pump is held on with two studs and one long circa 3” bolt. This bolt can be a hassle and a long stud alleviates this problem. Given the problem you experienced your pulley may no longer be readily removable, so the stud might help
Hey Chris..... I utilize a near myriad of Loctite products in my restoration business. It is amazing what has been developed since the blue and red of years ago. I am following along on your journey. I have a spreadsheet of projects to complete on my 4A. one of those projects is a noisy water pump. I may pass on the pulley conversion if yours doesn't work out. The belt should be aligned with the 3 pulleys. I restored my 4A in the early 80's. I am going through some of the items that didn't turn out a well as I expected. I have learned a great deal through the years. The greatest learning experience is patience. Happy 4th Chris. Be good. Remain safe
Hey, Barry. I did NOT line up with the crank pulley. Huge concern. But, I'm going to delay stressing about it until a "future me" time. We'll see what happens. But, if I have to roll this all back and go with the stock arrangement, I will. Won't be happy about it, but I will. Cheers!
When I install mirrors, I always do the passenger side first because it is more difficult to get well positioned, then install the driver side to match. The windshield frame may obstruct the view of the mirror, where you were trial fitting it initially. It may need to be mounted a little farther forward or rearward to have a clear view from the driver's seat. Repositioning either mirror should be no problem, the way these just clamp on. It's a lot more critical to get right the first try when drilling holes to mount the mirrors! 🙄
Thanks, Alan. I only wanted to worry about the driver's side, in this case, since some reviews I read were that, without the convex mirror, it was worthless on the passenger's side.
Hi Chris, I did the thin belt conversion and fan delete on my TR4 too (as well as conversion to alternator, neg ground and electric fan). Something different from yours, the crank pulley I got is also a harmonic dampener. It's not solid like the one you installed. I have heard that the original fan and the crank extension used to mount it also served to balance the 4 cylinder engine. I don't know if that is true, but do know the original fan, pulley, and extension have a small hole drilled through them to indicate the correct assembly, presumably to maintain that balance. The 6-blade water pump is a good idea, too. Our TRs can use all the help they can get circulating coolant through the engine and keeping the temps under control! FWIW, I bought a 6-blade pump instead of rebuilding, and put an aluminum thin belt pulley on it. I got my thin belt conversion and water pump from Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine. He is a long-time TR racer and specializes in high performance parts (but stocks some "regular" stuff, too). Ken is a wealth of knowledge about getting these cars to peak performance... BUT I recommend charging your phone fully before calling him, because he has a lot of great stories and you might be on the call for a while! 😄 Finally, was there a gob of something like Bondo or hardened plumbers putty smeared on the front of your timing chain cover, under the paint? Supposedly that was done by the factory to reduce engine noise. Most rebuilders remove it when cleaning up the parts for fresh paint and reassembly. It's rare to see now and is even missing from most "show" cars restored to the highest level of originality. If I did see it on a TR 4-cylinder, I would assume the engine has never been fully rebuilt... unless it appears to be an extremely meticulous restoration. P.S. I've never seen that heater control valve taken apart before... interesting to see how it works... and if it is rebuildable.
Thanks, Alan. My crank pulley does have the rubber balancer. The conversion for the water pump, though, continues to be painful. I think I'm there, but I have my concerns still. I did not have that insulation stuff on my timing chain cover (nor on my Spitfire). There are some pics in the workshop manual that show it. I always assumed it was a chain noise abatement, but it seems a bit silly given all the other noises that were there. The heater valve is really simple. If you rubber diaphragm is in good enough shape, you can clean it up and rebuild the thing. But, you can't get pieces/parts, so sometimes you just have to get a new one. Thanks for watching and your comment!
@roundtailrestoration HI again Chris... I hope you get the water pump sorted out. BTW, new or rebuilt, it isn't uncommon for them to leak a little at first. I think the seals just need some time to seat themselves properly. It's only a concern if the leak doesn't stop after a little run time.
@@alanm.4298 I got as good as I could on the water pump yesterday (video out soon). Still not totally happy with it, but we'll see once it actually gets running. Thanks for the tip on the water pump!
Great video on the parking brake! I have the same type of brake on my TR4A. My problem is mine was missing the button rod. I got a used button rod but have no idea how to hook it up inside the handle. It controls the pawl thing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 😊
I haven't gotten that far yet for the TR4. I took it all apart, but not internal to the actual lever itself. Sorry, but I'm not sure. However, here is a shot of the internals...might this help? rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200476
Another excellent video. But I have a question on actually something you skipped - how did you install the plastic silver trim on the windscreen rubber? I am kinda lost there...
I don't remember a whole lot of problems with it except for cracking it once, then having to do it again. Got too aggressive with trying to make a curve. Lots of lubrication and taking it slow. If you can do it in the hot sun, to warm that plastic up, you're probably better off. Otherwise, I just started with the break in the top/center and made my way around. Been a while, but I don't remember it being too horrible. Good luck!
Good luck. Like I think I mentioned in the video, depending on how your door gaps are, you may or may not have enough room. I do on both sides (more so on passengers) so my guess is you will, but you might be taking a chance. Good luck!
Hi Chris looks great and it's doing it's job, still have my 1969 Spitfire MK3 twenty six years this year and same paint I sprayed it in celilose when I restored it. Jasmine. Kev Sunny East Devon UK👍👍🇬🇧rest
Yeah, pretty slick. For what it is, I'm really happy with the quality, too. We'll see how it holds up, but hell, for $25, worth buying one just to try it out.
I've got the same ones on my GT6. But I had to mount them on the wing window frame. Required me drilling the base so I could put the screws from the topside. But they vibrate badly. I'll have a look at mounting them where you did, but I think wing window will obstruct the view.
Yeah, the wing windows would not work with where I have mine, I don't think. I had a lot more room on the passenger's side than the driver's side. So, as long as your gap is good, should work out. I might put something on the underside because the set screws right now just screw right into the door. But, putting rubber or something there may allow it to move around. Play with it, I guess.
Hi Chris, can i suggest you look at the upgraded heather valves with a straight connexion to the block? those old ones and repros do no operate well. mine does not close by just pushing the cable so i need to open the bonnet and give it a push. Easier to do it now, Rimmers sells a kit. Cheers
Thanks. I just looked at that kit. I'm not afraid to say that the price is a bit steep. I'm not sure it would be worth it for me, but definitely something to consider. Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris, We don’t see you turn the distributor drive round 180 deg so I assume you have not done it yet in the video as the rotor arm looks to be still pointing 180deg out, i.e. when installed correctly it should point to #1 spark plug. Also at time 11:52 in the video you say 1-3-2-4 for the firing order when of course you mean 1-3-4-2. I've sent the page from my manual by e-mail, which I guess is the same as yours, but included for checking. I’m still not to the engine of my 1962 TR4 the bodywork (sorry the rust) is taking forever!!! I might do as you have and hit the engine, if for no other reason but to get a change of work and feel as if I’m making progress!!! Cheers, Mike in the UK
Thanks, Mike. Yes, I did swap the gear around and aligned it all with #1 plug per the workshop manual. I did mean 1-3-4-2 but I bet I wired it up wrong now that I think about it. Be checking that! Thanks for the email, too. Yes, sick of rust repair is why I went to the motor and soon be shifting to the chassis. Definitely no fun, but I do find it rewarding after a time. Thanks for watching!
OK I guess if you have changed the distributor drive you are at TDC on the Exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke, at 10:55 as the rotor arm is pointing away from #1 spark plug. It will all come good when you do the actual timing.
Thanks, Mike. I did re-wire the cap as that was wrong and re-verified the dizzy. I had rotated the motor a few times and just edited that all out, so it was all good to go. Thanks for the backup!
Looking good Chris. The blanking plugs for the grease point on the water pumps were nice chunky brass things, I think they’re still generally available? (Got a few used ones kicking around myself so have never needed t look for new). What problem are you having with zinc plating? I’ve just got my kit out again too and am driving myself crazy cleaning bolts to a plateable condition!
Thanks. The zinc plating itself is okay, it's the black oxide. It looks really nice at first, but as it dries, it develops a white, chalky appearance. Some of it will rub off, but most of it won't. I really haven't played around with trying to fix it too much yet, tho, so I shouldn't complain yet.
A shame you can't find the original quality stuff. I'd be willing to pay more, but sadly I don't think most people would - hence, no market for that stuff. Thanks, Bill!
One of the reasons I replaced with a Mallory dual point ignition... but now I see they're discontinued (since Holley bought Mallory?) and parts for them may become harder to find!
You can remove the pin out of the offset drive on the Distributor turn the offset drive 180 degrees and put the pin back in. Replace Distributor in the correct position.
I briefly considered that, but following a professional rebuild of it, I didn't want to take any chances with screwing something up. Thanks for watching!
Oh boy you have had some interesting things happen on this assembly, a great learning experience. You have it looking spectacular,! And with all the overhauld pieces it should run like a dream, when you get there.
Very nice. Your spitfire is the same as mine - 1966 mk2, but yours is in better shape 😁 Congrats on your win! Btw, my spitfire is the 3rd old british car that I've owned - all of them leaked from the factory 😂
I don't have any video links, but when I re-did my Spitfire's speedo I used this document: obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf It's pretty good and goes into the different styles. You can probably find a video, but I don't have any to recommend. Good luck!
We'll see how it goes on my TR4 engine when it gets to that point. I'm using Permatex all around this time, so hopefully that will help. Thanks for watching!
Excellent work effort Chris. Spit sounds great and rides well by the looks of it. Nice day for you down driving. Thanks for posting. Cheers from Texas.
Old man, you're far from that. Sounds like she's running great! Congrats on the best of show again, all that hard work you put in to her. What an awesome bridge/drive/venue! I did really like the powder blue spit as well, great color. Can't beat SPI red though.
Thanks, Eric. Yeah, that Mk3 was nice. Just listening to people walk by, I definitely think the red was the key. Really happy with how she pulled over the bridge. Nice and smooth with no stuttering. That rear diff, though...
Interesting that you qualified Math to Maths, I assume you did that for your UK viewers, I'm British, but I've been in the States for 22 years, so I appreciate the different language 😉
showing us a video of a possible zinc-plating failure, without the follow-up as to why, feels like a waste of my time. Is it left to me to use this as a learning tool? It may be, learning what to watch and not watch, I guess. Best of luck and well wishes on your project(s). Perhaps, if the title were something like "early attempts at zinc plating, failure?"
You make a very good point. It's well taken. I'll take action on that. Thank you for watching and your well wishes (and plating is still kicking my butt)!
I've updated the thumbnail and title. I left the description because it stated that I was having issues. Thank you for your feedback. I detest click-bait and this was not an attempt at that. I still don't know why I'm not doing so hot at the plating (still), so I couldn't answer that question then or now. But, again, your point was well-taken and appreciated.
I thought it was the starter motor at first. Research led to the possibility of the vvt. Since that was a lot cheaper and easier, I did that first. Lucky, but I'd probably do the same again.
I don't know. I got mine from Rock Auto if I remember correctly and it was OEM. But, I've bought other parts from Amazon and haven't had any issues with any of them.
Question ; are spitfire windshields interchangeable? I got a project car and the windshield was in the trunk. I got the rubber tried to install it and it seems like its not curved enough to fit . Any advice ?
I believe the early cars (Mk1-2-3) are all the same windscreen, but after that they are different. But, when I was putting mine in, it didn't seemed curved enough, either, but it went in. It did not fit flush against the frame when I set it there to check. I did a video on it, for what it's worth. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DIP_8dmy1Kg.html
I got it in sort of. Like the seal is a hair too thick . The top part is barely stretching over the glass. The chrome strip groove is pinched together. What can I do ? Maybe pull off the seal and use windshield glue. Center it and glue it in like new cars ,???
@@chrismarusic4277 It may be worth trying a different seal, from a different parts house, much as I hate to say that. Where did you get the one you're using now? I don't think a modern glue job will work. Not designed that way and I doubt you will get a seal, let along the vibration will probably eventually crack the glass.
I'm thinking about spraying my truck with Raptor liner and I'm curious if the end result was the same color of the basecoat? (How well does it match?) I want to spray a custom color of green but I'm unsure how much the color will change when mixed.
Hey, Trevor. There is not as much gloss because you aren't putting a clear coat on it. So, the bling isn't there. But, as far as the shade, I'm very happy and didn't notice any difference. But, I'm sure it's important you get the tintable stuff
Hi @roundtailrestoration I'm learning/working on a '65 MK2, and find your restoration vids a helpful perspective as I'm working my way through. I recently (successfully!) removed/re-did both front disk brake systems (did not split the calipers!!!), as well as both rear drum systems. Car now stops as it should :) During the drum work, I decided to purchase the handbrake cable and bits for the aft part of the handbrake system. Do you have a vid or reference for how to properly remove the old cable and "thread" the new one? There are some round curves that the front part of the cable must navigate to wind up in its place behind the drums where the springs attach, and I'm not sure how to gracefully thread the solid threaded ends through those curves! Thanks in advance for any tips/pointers. JD
Hi John. Thanks for watching. I was lucky enough to route the cable with the body off, which made it very easy. However, it can be done with the body on, it's just not that intuitive. Here's a link to a PDF that has the process: docs.google.com/viewerng/viewer?url=www.triumphexp.com/phile/8/190533/E._Brake_cable_routing.pdf. Hope this helps! As far a removing the old one, if you cannot do it the same, but reverse way, I'd probably just cut it. That's up to you, tho.
@@roundtailrestoration Thanks, Chris! After I left my comment I went out to the garage and intuited my way exactly as described in the PDF, only to return here and find I had done it the "right" way. I appreciate the validation and the detail. Thanks! PS: Yeah, I remember your comment in the vid about how it had been nice to do the handbrake with the body off! My hands are tired after that one. But done! Thanks again. JD
Excellent video Chris - thank you. I am now going to dive into mine. Are all parts of the wiper motor readily available? How hard is it to a complete novice in electrics to handle it? Thanks again for the video!
As far as I know, many of the internal parts are no longer available, especially the big main gear. Electrically, it's pretty straightforward. I don't think you'll have any issues there. Good luck!
Silicon fluid might require a few bleeds because very small bubbles can remain in suspension and coalesce into bigger ones giving you a soft pedal or perhaps a pull to one side. Also, as mentioned your parking brake should be adjusted which will take up some extra pedal movement. Good vid though, and glad you’re happy with the improvement!
