On a distant shore, there lies a reef break that is so perfect, but so sketchy because of how close to dry reef it breaks. Coral heads boiling up along the wave, with water so clear it feels like it's not even there, and it dead ends into dry reef at the end. Anytime you fell and ended up in the whitewater, you would hit bottom and get cut up. The wave is flawless though, so wipeouts were minimal, and surfing it was One of the most surreal experiences of my life, with just a handful of us out!
Thanks to @TeamONeill & @Surfline for the invite on this "Maps to Nowhere" trip! Watch the full feature here --- • Maps to Nowhere Episod...
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"RAW POV Sessions" is a Playlist where I go back and upload all the raw footage from a session/day. No frills, just straight footage... wipeouts, makes, walking, talking, whatever I film with my GoPro.
4 дек 2023
