What a clutch video, i had the middle mouse loose due to one of the parts that hold it being broken, i hot glued it neatly and clean, now it’s no longer loose, preciate the video boss.
I also have problem with my left mouse button / switch on the Razer Basilisk V2. How do you refix the glide pads properly? Also where can I find the proper replacements switches? Thx :)
If your looking at this video because your left mouse button double clicks and your not a solder master, I would try to lift a bit the metal plate near the trigger and also put electronic cleaner. The thing that is causing the problem to happen is a buildup of static in the trigger. Try to clean it as much as possible to have less static build up in the future and lifting a bit the metal plate should help with the double click.
This could solve the issue of a while, but in the long run the button needs to be replaced. As for another reason the button not to work goos, is that a part of the metal plate in the button acts as a spring and after heavy use some microfracures are formed which weakens the spring. In this case, replacing the button is the only option.
Could you make the teardown video of the new Deathadder v2 or basilisk V2 .... The ones with the optical button.... Wanna know how durable and replaceable they are
can you help me, accidentally soldered the little dot near the soldering part to remove the clicker, was trying to replace my right click that makes the clicker work, trying to find a solution to fix it but no one can answer it
I have one that is not working at all. This will help with the disassembly but I doubt the problem will be obvious judging from seeing the parts in this video. I could, of course, just be the cord but I have tried moving it around while plugged in without any success. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
If there is no dirt on the optic, I will go with changing the cord but still, it will be a tricky one to fit in, if you do not have exactly the same cable...
Are there any upgraded switches I fould put on the left and right mouse buttons? Mine lasted under a year and I would like my new ones to last for much longer. Its the right click that went bad (i think). In video games it just stops clicking randomly. I just uninstalled all of the drivers and such but I have not tested it yet. Is there anything else to try to make sure it isnt software related?
I guess the buttons of this mouse model were defective or something in general. They should last much longer than they actually do. A good replacement is OMRON D2FC-F-7N 20M which has a lifespan of 20 million cycles. The original switch lifespan is about 5 million cycles.
I also needed to repair my own Basilisk. It is a nice mice, but the Chinese "Omron" switches are from poor quality. After ordering japanese made Omron switches, it works like charm.
I have a similar video for fixing a scroll wheel: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yhvHt-kCzuc.html . The general idea is to clean the sensor with isopropyl alcohol or any spray contact cleaner (suitable for electronics) like DeoxIT
Thanks, but do you have the link to the clicky replacement parts? Sorry if I missed it somewhere, thanks. Also noob question but what are you using before you remove the old solder, and what are you using after when you solder it back on. I always just use the solder iron and solder.
my Basilisk V1, has switch part code = D2FC-K (50M)-RZ , take care, in this video is D2FC-F-7N. I put this one, and the difference is the sound, is louder then de original :(
My model started to having problems with RMB few days ago. It is not noticeable in windows but during gaming when I hold RMB and LMB at the same time RMB often is not "holding" the click. So for example I am unable to zoom and fire. Thus precision fire is very problematic. I bought it about 6 mo ago. What can be wrong?
@@voidsabre_ Its really F up. I paid $50 for this thing. Its my most expensive mouse. I have expected top quality and superior durability. Razer claims that their switches have up to 50 million clicks!! I am disappointed. Will never buy Razer again. :(((( At any rate. I am returning back to Logitech. I ordered cheaper Logitech G 102. None Logitech mouse ever failed me after only 6 months.
If you rule out any software issues, because a software can cause the exact same issue, the buttons need a replacement. I'm fixing the same issue with this one.
@@glab1334 Thank you very much. But I am already using Logitech mice. :-) But the bitter feeling will remain for a long time. Basilisk was my first Razer product. 50 dollars for a mice is a lot so I expected really top notch quality. Sadly I have got disappointment.
I'm heating the mouse pads, as they got a little bent while removing them. The heat is helping to return the flat shape back again. Still, the heat should be no more than 80 C, otherwise, they can melt and deform permanently.
My right click on my Razer Basilisk sometimes clicks twice when I press it only once, the mouse is about 2 years old and i've kept it clean, never opened but rubbed it down every now and again and tried to remove all the gunk with a toothpick and a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Is this something that I can fix without replacing the button ? I don't currently own a soldering iron, and if I need to go get one just to fix my mouse, I would much rather look for a new mouse. Thanks !
That is a common issue when the button starts to whear out. You could try to open the button itself and clean the contacts, but this is very delicate operation that require steady hands and really fine tweezers. There are some small clips on the sides which can be pulled gently to open the button cover. Inside the button are basically two parts, a little plastic pin, the one that shows from the top of the button, and a metal spring. Both of them you can lose very easily. You need to clean the contacts on the metal spring and the metal pin below the spring with some alcohol (isopropyl) or some contact cleaner and hope of the best. This whole operation is very risky, the chance of success is low and you can make it worse very easily.
@@glab1334 i finally got some better tools ( ifixit toolkit) and opened that sucker up and fixed my right mouse button and learned how mouse buttons work in general.. all through my endeavour i was watching your video on the teardown. i noticed that the metal blade was bent downwards kinda and straightened it out and that fixed my faulty right click issue. thx once again for the video.
I own one for about 7 months and I have problems with clicking and dragging on my left clicker. I suspect that it has turned faulty. Can you advise which particular part of the mouse that I can buy and replace in order to get it working properly again?
The click and drag issues usually are signs of worn button in the mouse. It's possible the issue to be software related, so to be sure, you can test the mouse on a different computer to rule this out. The original buttons for this mouse are OMRON D2FC-F-7N, you can get them from eBay. You can use any regular mouse micro-switch, but those are more durable with longer life. However, as you can see from the video, in order to replace the button, it is required to have some soldering skills and a suitable soldering iron.
@@glab1334 Sorry for the late reply. RU-vid didn't notify me of any updates for this comment for some reason. I did a little research and I'm keen on getting the kailh buttons since my left clicker button has really been worn out, the clicks arent registering smoothly... Appreciate the reply. Love these disassembly videos! Please keep making them if you get the chance to repair different types of mice!
@@glab1334 Hey man, will any soldering iron do the job? Like one for 35 euro or so, buying an iron and the switches is cheaper for me than buying a good mouse again.
@@TheTribes44 any iron will do if the tip size is more or less like a dull pencil. Some kind of temperature regulation is also a good to have, otherwise you could burn out the PCB and to crew the copper traces. No more than 60W. I think you could find such soldering irons in aliexpress for less than $5. Also, you will need flux, otherwise the soldering will be a mess. If you are on a budget, you can use citric acid or aspirin for flux (grinding and mix with water to make some kind of a paste), but the smell of those will make your brain scream like never before :)
@@glab1334 Nice one I appreciate it, pretty much all of the irons on Amazon are 60w so should be fine, just gotta get the flux and sensors and I should be good to go tbh, this doesn't seem like too much of a tough job after watching your video
The "top" is for the battery compartment, which is held by magnets. If you wish to take out any other part, you need to disassemble the whole mouse. There are 4 hidden screws under the bottom pads.
Screwdriver - Klearlook/EZARC Precision Screwdriver Set, 57 in 1 Soldering Iron - TS100 Solder Sucker - Engineer SS-02 Tweezers - PIXNOR Precision Tweezer Set 7Pcs ESD All of those you can find on eBay or Amazon
A soldering iron is a hand tool used to heat solder, usually from an electrical supply at high temperatures above the melting point of the metal alloy. This allows for the solder to flow between the workpieces needing to be joined. And the metal he used is generic 2mm 60/40 Flux 2.0% Solder wire. Hope this answered your question, sorry about the compicated english.