Just put drk in Macklin in the stock slash what's having all sorts of issues going sideways off the jump, turned out to be a blown out right rear tire. Took a wreck to figure that out.
I wouldn’t listen to anyone else In the comments I have been racing rc drag cars for my whole life and the stuttering is called cogging to fix that you can gear it down but I wouldn’t recommend that because you don’t want a whole lot of torque on a no prep car so I’d say relax the slipper clutch just a tad so that it slips a little right away to get the motor spinning and that would even help it on the starting line
I currently have a 90t spur and 15t pinion combo with a 3.0t motor. With the DRK 7 stages enabled on it. I launch right around 35% at 0.25sec and then 2nd stage is at 48% at 0.20sec. Gotta make sure the surface is clean. Hit it up with a leaf blower before you make a pass to get rid of the dust on the road. A clean surface you will definitely help put the power down.
@@FullThrottleRC I just bought a Stihl cordless leaf blower just to clean off wherever I’m testing. Definitely a must have and you can get a new one for under $100.
No if you have your car balanced perfectly you will not hit wheelie bar . And from what I'm learning testing with out bar is the way to go at least till you hit 1.9 then put the bar back on
Late to the party here,been using simple green and paragon ground effects on a stock DR10,running proline reaction orange dots. Tires are super sticky and car has been launching great! Still running stock motor and ESC.
I haven't had any experience with the stock electronics in those cars or seen what they can run. I started using brake cleaner to clean tires recently instead and have had a lot of success.
Hello...i purchased a proline reaction rear belted tire... Then i purchased a losi drag 22 rear rim ..i glued them, but it wobbles very very bad...looks like the Proline is bigger, but the rim is not feeling the tire out with the width..is the rims my problem? Thanks
I don't have any experience with the Losi 22 drag car so I can't say for sure. I would think the 2.2 drag wheels and tires would be a standard width but I guess a manufacture could make their wheels whatever size they feel is best. Proline also makes a wider wheel and tire than standard so check to see that you didn't get the wider reaction tire
Glad to see the simple green is working for you mate. I have one of those Factory Team drag slipper clutch systems coming for my drag car, so it will be interesting to see how it goes.
i love to make parts too.. love it.. i built a cnc machine to do so.. i make most of the from aluminum because carbon fiber dust is so fking toxic it will kill you.... full face respirator wile cutting and processing carbon fiber parts.... safety first..lol
I've really wanted a cnc for so long! Unfortunately I don't have the space for it right now. If possible in the future though it's something I really want
I don’t think it’s getting enough traction to hit the wheelie bar. You’re seeing less than 2 gs you’ll be around 3 before you notice weight transfer by the looks of your suspension. Also do you use tire warmers? Adding them to your routine car really help with consistency
In my more recent passes with traction compound I'm starting to see over 2gs and hitting the bars for sure. I use a heat gun currently instead of tire warmers. It's working so far.
Yea it seems like the car could use more power on the hit but I'm already launching with the first stage at 50%. Need to figure out what I can do to get it launching harder.
I have a losi 22s drag camaro. I am also just trying to get enough traction so it can 1 not spin out at launch, and 2 load the wheelie bar and carry the Front wheels as it should at the launch. Yesterday i found out that doing burn outs is not enough because i washed one tire and realized it became super grippy compared to the unwashed tire. So of course i washed all four tires. I also found that if i cover the vent holes in the wheels the tires balloon like 60% less. So tonight i will be testing to see if i can get it to launch properly
Grip and power management is key. But I wouldn't focus so much on carrying the front tire. Cars this scale are prone to wheelie but you really want the front end to set down to be fast.
@@FullThrottleRC i understand but I'm looking for the front tires to pop up basically to indicate that I'm hooking up and that the power is being used properly. Then I can probably just ease into the throttle at launch
Launch at 85% I’m 70 with plenty of time.I have almost the same car I’m running extra wide slicks rotor Ron motor,mcklan esc locked diff, also motor is 2-1/2 turn its very fast my only problem I ever have is I can’t run a lot of test runs motor heats up quick after a couple runs better park it for 1/2 hr. Lot of work to get to run straight after a lot of work on car sometimes it still does what it wants.Your car looks great!!!!
Thanks! I can imagine launching at 85% 😳😳 Last time out I was launching at 45% and still struggled at times. Maybe if I find a better surface to run on things might be different
If you scale up the car 10x you would have a 50 lb. full size car.. if you scale up the asphalt 10x you'd have bowling balls to drive on. Just a little insight on the problems scale drag racing presents.
Morning,great video I like listening to you because unlike everybody else you know what you are taking about,please can I ask what are the things in both sides of your chassis ?.thank you AndyTimson from England
Thanks for the support! I'm assuming you're talking about the plastic parts I had bolted to the side of the chassis. Those were some aero plates that I 3d printed to help with downforce. Looking back they might not have really been needed but I hoped they would keep the car planted if air got under the body
I only sand a brand new set of tires, the rubber needs to be opened up to accept the conditioning. After sanding the first time they don't need to be sanded for every prep.
Hey, why kind of tape and glue did you use to glue the plastic to the carbon fiber sheet? Also, what router blade did you use? I know flush cut, but did you use a special diamond blade or anything?
The tape was just regular masking tape and I just used CA glue. The tape just allows me to remove the 3d printed peice after without damaging the carbon fiber. The router bit was just a normal flush trim bit, nothing special. I'm sure overtime if I was cutting a lot of carbon it would probably dull and I'd ruin it but for just one piece I wasn't worried.
@@lynstonioarmstrong1083 that doesn't really sound like the radio unless you have the start function set up to limit your throttle. Could be something in your esc as well
I feel like it's still getting enough traction and forward momentum that it should be touching the bars a little at least. Maybe not though, we'll do some more testing when the slipper eliminator is in!
After seeing the slow mo , It looks like one side is spinning more. Try putting on 300k- 500k diff fluid. Make sure both tires are evenly putting the power down and make a rip. Make sure the surface is clean bring a leaf blower lol