dont forget to mention the most important aspect of using heavier damper fluid and smaller piston holes , it increases loading on the tyres , just like if you go too soft the car will roll through all its travel and bottom out the damper , this in turn causes the car to over load the tyre and slip or even grip roll occurs . with the increased forces on the tyres , the tyres heat up faster , this can manifest as over heating the tyre and the car will get grip rolly as it goes through the run. the shock angle changes the progression rate of the spring and damper , the more they are laid down the later the tyre loading occurs as the car has more initial roll thus the tyre isnt loaded as hard until the damper is half way through its stroke . everything we are doing with these cars is about changing the way the tyre reacts to the surface
Great video with a lot of useful info, my only concern is your use of the term low speed and high speed damping, the way you describe the pistons and oil weights makes me believe (& I haven't ever stripped an RC damper) that there is only a hole (no control valve) and the oil that passes through it In my experience of working on and tuning mountain bike dampers, Low speed damping refers to a controlled flow of oil through a valve, which kind of acts like a stable platform and stops the suspension from diving, when a bump of sufficient force is applied to the damper, the low speed valve opens allowing the oil to pass through the high speed damping hole and the suspension now becomes fully functional in it's travel, the size of the hole or shim stack affects how fast the damper blows through that high speed damping e.g. fast damping (thinner oil/ larger hole) will bottom out faster than slow damping (thicker oil or smaller hole On more sophisticated dampers you can have an adjustable low speed damper, so basically you get to set the size of the impact it takes to open the low speed damping valve hole So taking the principle of the above High and Low speed damping from mountain bike shocks, I would say what you're actually referring to is the High speed damping only (there is no low speed damping in these dampers on RC cars) Check out 'Vorsprung High speed vs low speed damping, Tuesday Tune' on YT for more info on how dampers work.....these guys know their stuff (and might help you win more races) 😊
Hi Jamie, what what shock set up is best for outdoor. I’ve got the b6.4 kit set up. I’m finding it a bit slow into corners and not reacting quick enough . Could you give me a guide to help me improve. I have red springs on front blue on rear.
Good stuff :) Was hoping to hear your thoughts as to why we generally run smaller piston holes front versus rear? Assume it’s related to oil volumes and shock size differences front to rear?
I like how when you don't really understand something you come out and say so instead of trying to fake your way through it. Anyway 🙂 If I went to the 2.5mm pistons to calm the car down would I need to change oil weight? The AE site says thicker pistons increase the pack. Would low speed damping still feel the same? Calmer cornering with better jump landing? Using stock 1.6 and 1.7. Sounds like a good upgrade.Thanks.
I noticed a lot of setups for carpet/Astro use large hole pistons, especially for older 12mm, is this better for flat landings? Carpet tracks usually quite smooth so can’t see that being used for bumps. As I have 2x1.8 on rear and car will bounce back up on a flat landing jump.
@@hallbrothersrc3308 thanks for the answer, have spent alot of time lately to figure out how to tune my shocks to eat up bumps/ruts and still feel nice over the jumps.
