Would be nice to see you address the difference between rc and full size cars by the difference between sprung and unsprung weight ratio. IMO that’s why rc cars react to weight gain more favorably than full size.
Hi Jamie, what what shock set up is best for outdoor. I’ve got the b6.4 kit set up. I’m finding it a bit slow into corners and not reacting quick enough . Could you give me a guide to help me improve. I have red springs on front blue on rear.
You have the right attitude in trying to tie things to basics physics , and seem generally happy to be corrected thus here are my 2 cents based on first hand experience on full scale vehicles (not all is translatable in RC but forced based explanations of the RC are very relatable to RC also) . iHMO need to start putting a lot of meat on the bone when trying to explain things although i do get that might involve more time from your side - you seem to have fire in your belly though so the effort put in will be worth in the end. Free body diagrams , balances of forces and moments (ie Undergraduate Engineering Statics level) is enough to start getting a grasp before moving to dynamics . Everything else being equal fewer shims will lower the roll center (a classic 2D diagram like one here will help you grasp it easier ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WkZ7lrLivNg.htmlfeature=shared) - so its the other way around @1:27 . All that being said higher/lower RC is still of relative importance - an unequal length wishbone suspension is a 4 bar linkage with 1 member (upright and wheel subassy) theoretically (momentarily for the shake of statics balance of forcess and moments) constrained with a spherical joint/hinge @ tyre patch contact point with the ground (repeat at the back end) .The forces acting on the CG of the car which is tied to the floating member of the 4 bar linkage are trying to push and pull through the wishbone and the top link and that will result in roll and pitch movements due to side forces at the same time .Specifics of the topology of the suspension from vehicle to vehicle , Kick ups , rideheight changes (resulting in a different stance of the 4 bar linkage etc at a given moment etc) will change the leverage ratios through the wishbone and top link resulting in different ammounts of induced roll and pitch movements).
Engineers and multiple proven theories claim a helicopter cannot maintain controlled flight, but because they obviously can (very well), it doesn’t imply they’re all built wrong for it to contradict the science/theories, does it? IOW: I’m completely tracking your entire explanation/“argument(?)”, and appreciate the time, effort, and very comprehensive way this was all demonstrated & explained. Of course a few tiny weights/measures simply cannot be calculated, due in-part to parts size, inability to be inside these tiny cars, as well as sophisticated tooling that would be required to find every center, bias, etc. I think after showing the many other unsprung weight differences being surprisingly more, showed that flipping the shocks really has no effect. But, if it’s true, swap your tire foams and it’s irrelevant. I’ll certainly be following and trying some things myself. One other thing the other guys didn’t seem to clear up, was that you weren’t actually changing fluids, pistons, etc., meaning part of his argument regarding this really has no bearing on what you’re actually doing (imo)…
My car is getting a lot of pop in the rear end, causing it to do s front flip off of certain jumps at almost any speed, would I change the spring or the oil to try to help?
The knowledge in these videos is priceless, the problem is that people always think they already know… i know quite a bit about shocks and springs from my own messing around… and i try to do the best i can with remembering all aspects.. down to how well i was feeling connected to the car.. sometimes it just drives bad cause your driving bad…. But this jazz with putting on stiffer fronts to reduce some rear squat, makes crazy sense once you think about it… I find if your REALLY in tune with your car and ran it like that for a long time, sometimes small adjustments like that do have unexpected results… obviously sometimes explainable, but sometimes your just in awe at how it did the opposite of what you’d expect..
I find the softer springs doesnt add side bite (when done all around) nearly as much as dropping a weight in oil all around… its more initial steering i think, more than overall maximum steer…
Interesting when you talk about wet running I have found similar with my touring car. When running a stiffer suspension setup closer to a dry setup it's working much better than a soft setup where the car rolls around a lot, the car is also handles more predictable. One change I do for wet running is more chassis flex which for a touring car is done by changing the top deck to a more flexy option
First of all, i wish all the best for hallbrothers web site. I have a question: you said that a lighter spring on the rear will push more on the chassis on corner entry than a harder one. And if i have understood well, it depends basically by the energy stored on preload making ride high. But this will move inside the range of downstop. So the lighter spring will use more stroke during suspension movement?
I think you got it right. If you didn’t, we both got it wrong. A stiffer spring will push up harder than a softer one when you compress the suspension by X mm. But the flipside is that when the chassis raises up, the stiff spring weakens the pushing up faster than the soft one. It’s funny because the idea of a softer spring pushing the chassis higher is counter-intuitive but that’s how it works. With equal amounts of acceleration and deceleration, and without hitting full droop or full compression, the harder spring allows less movement up or down. Allowing less movement down is the obvious thing we all know but the effect going both ways is important to understand.
Any thoughts on calculating suspension frequencies as a means to select springs? I've been experimenting with this lately and it has taken some of the guess work out of picking springs or predicting how much of an impact different springs will have.
What I really enjoy about your videos is that you convey "what it feels like" and how it actually affects the car on track. The science of springs, damping, suspension geometry is so complex its often so much better to concentrate on 'what does this change do to the car on track'. You guys explaining what the effects of each change is the most helpful thing for most racers including myself, so thank you and keep it up!
- A softer spring transfers more weight but less energy into the tire usually equaling less pressure to the tire. - think just like more anti-squat adds more initial pressure to the tire but reduces transfer to the tire (this usually gives more grip) - or anti-roll (sway bars) add more initial pressure to the tire (usually as more grip) - (hint) with (stiffer spring/anti-squat/sway bars) you will have more initial grip but if it fall off at the end of the turn... if adding weight to the front fixes it (you probably don't have enough pressure on the tire) and weight is not the best way to fix this it more of a bandaid.
Thats all relitave to where your at already… theres a point where your traction wont transfer enough weight to begin the suspention to work… and theres a point where going softer isnt going to be ABLE to transfer more weight…. And the same feeling starts to happen if you have a stiff spring in front, and soft out rear… if you go too far, it starts to act backwards..
Tip: outdrives and driveshaft pins seem to last forever when you clean and grease them lightly. I do this before every track day and my outdrives after +6 months look like theyre not even used.
As a shelf queen, it would be kinda neat to do half painted, and on that half use the black parts, and only apply the setup tweeks and stuff to the painted side… worn tires on that side.. ect ect…
Please do an in-depth setup guide on shocks… i dont know that ANYONE has been as thorough as i would expect you to be… like, when a shock is in the “soft” location, it also gets compresed slower.. we just ignoring that effect…?
Great videos lads, Any chance of a detailed video on the new Team Associated B74.2 Decoupled Slipper Clutch Conversion Kit? Nothing what so ever about it online at all. All the best.
Wait but he races offroad so does that make this like bri'ish redneck shit since they're racing on dirt? I'm confuzed. Onroad racing exists and is better for a reason, so you don't have to associate with people that date their cousins or people that vote for Donald Trump
