Hi Danny, I used RDS for my BF109 rudder for scale looks, but it was never accurate at high angles. Perhaps the rod inside the plates of the rudder were not parallel to each other?? Do you have a video that goes into the proper way of building and installing an RDS system into the rc plane (especially for ailerons)? Thanks, and take care.
Thanks for the kind words. Before I started doing the videos I wrote extensive build blogs, and many are still reference guides for how to build a scale model from start to finish. This one I did on the Hawker Fury biplane covers RDS, making the torque converters, rods, and RDS boxes. But the whole thread is a good read if you are into scale modelling and new to building. But I warn you the threads are very long as I love to explain stuff, as if you hadn't guessed! This link should take you to the page that starts looking at the RDS I did for the ailerons.... forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/47074-s1581-hawker-nimrod-mki/page/14/
@@cammnut It is long, but instructive :-)) But, nothing can replace a good video. I asked Dave Platt one time how he did his concealed link in his American seaplane (Swordfish??) after watching his video. He mumbled something, never understood fully :-)) Anyways, I tried to imitate what he said and did in the video, but was never successful, so I didn't venture to the ailerons. God forbids you lose the airplane if something happens with RDS. There are so parameters in that little box where the rod moves back and forth. The contact surfaces and clearance is very important. Do you remember what clearance was in yours (the width inside the box vs wire diameter)?? I built mine out of G10, and put a nice spherical edge at the end of the 1/8" wire so there will be no binding of any kind. Even though the movement is supposed to be linear it was not :-)) When the bent wire starts rotating I got a large jump initially, then it smoothed out after perhaps 15 degrees of rotation. Did you have any problems of this sort? Take care. I love your vids.
Thanks for the kind words, to be mentioned in the same paragraph as Dave is awesome. I have been a huge fan for many years. Precision is critical, hinge lines, parralell box sides etc. I used ply for the box, but G10 is not hard enough. I line my box with melamine. Its detailed in that blog. I use sections of the same piano wire that the rod is made of, to set the gap. I cannot remember the wire size, if the wire is fairly short, 1/8 may be enough, but thicker may be needed. No I had no notchiness, the glider guys use RDS in their hi speed dynamic gliders, and a lack of precision would not be acceptable. Make a test rig 😉
@@cammnut I did a rig, but still failed :-)) BTW, did you align the bend in the wire exactly with the top surface of the box inside the aileron (IMO, it has to)? The pics do not show exactly the whole assembly, and where this is after you installed the ailerons.
The bend is not inside the box, but the bend must be on the hinge-line, the box must also obviously be on the hinge-line. I have also used RDS on a Brian Taylor Mustang, (This time on RCSB, link below) this time for ailerons and flaps. Maybe there will be some nuggets in this thread to help you find the problem. RDS does work, I am not sure what you are missing but trust me it is incredibly smooth when all aligned correctly. I used carbon fibre board to make the boxes for this one and they seemed to hold up very well. www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11779&PN=1&TPN=58 Have you watched all 4 RDS videos in my video list?
