The bigger issue with the corners leaking is there’s no silicone under the threshold (bottom metal piece of the shower frame). You put silicone where the tile meets the “pan” then put the threshold down s and then inside the threshold where the wall jambs will go, silicone in there. You did a good job but do not use caulking on a shorter door, especially inside the shower. It’ll come up within a month and wash away causing leaks. Only use silicone, not silicone caulk. The note about not sealing the inside threshold because wheepholes, completely wrong. Seal ALL metal to surface contact. There is actually a channel under them. Think of the threshold as a h beam, the wheep holes you see are above the hump. They let water out that gets in through the glass or snap in at the door. If you don’t seal the inside of the shower on the threshold, you’ll get water under it, it’ll never fully dry and would have m mold and a terrible smell. Source for all this: it’s my day job.
When faced with this in the past....several times now...I discovered it is just easier to completely remove the shower door frame to ensure you get all the old caulking and gunk cleaned off completely. It's more work, but the best way to make sure all the mold is cleaned out. Also, a simple wetted index finger works better than any caulking tool I've tried.
Only a total amateur uses a wet finger. That is a fact. Professional caulkers use caulking tools because tooling is primarily to improve adhesion, aesthetics is secondary and can not be correctly done with a finger. And properly tooled sealant always looks better than anything tooled with a finger. I have very conservatively installed over 100 miles of sealant. EVERY MAJOR MANUFACTURER SAYS DRY TOOL. This is a fact too. It is hilarious that after “ several times” you think you are some kind of expert. Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues
I think the problem with this is that you need to remove the old caulk to clean and dry the compromised joint properly... Idk that's just my thought process. Turned out looking nice
Bingo. This product is good for cosmetic/cracking cleanup. i.e. 'refreshing'. On same thought process as re-sealing grout every so often. If grout is cracking/failing however, you would repair it first. If your existing caulk has been compromised via mold behind it or is peeling/lost bond to surface, that WILL compromise the new 're-fresh' caulk sooner than later if not properly repaired. And one additional note: If you're caulk and joints have been compromised for an extended time allowing mold growth behind the tile, even removing and replacing the caulk will just buy you more time before it takes back over from behind the caulk.
@@Loya1ty I agree, remove the old caulk, clean out the "space" which might also have mold . . . let dry out, I would tape off clean lines if shower gets lots of viewing, and then apply caulk, making a smooth seal and surface . . . at least that is how I would AND PRESENTLY am updating my '60's shower tile . . . ( I did have to rebuild the curb, which I did down to the floor boards and adjoining walls ) now correct slope which was the culprit - water flowed down the door and puddled only to weap out at the curb corner . . . NOT ANY MORE )
Shower doors are designed so that any water that gets inside will leak back on the inside. Most manufacturers advise only putting silicone on the outside
Nice vid. When you were using GE Re-New for the interior of the shower, there didn't appear to be any existing caulking. I've read that GE Re-New only works on existing 100% silicon caulking and that its not recommended if the old caulking was removed or not present. The purpose of this product is to make your old caulking look new again. Is this the case with you? Have you had any issues after using Re-New? Do you think its ok, to strip the old caulking clean and go against GE's recommendation and use Re-New as if its the initial caulking?
Hey if the shower door was installed correctly with no silicone on the interior or exterior edges the weep holes would have bleed off the water into the shower correct ? Second the saddle should have been cut to fit behind the tile face with a waterproofing membrane behind it right . Third the bottom sweep on the shower door is not in the video opps . This looks like 1990's contractors doing a rush job. I love MDF in a bathroom don't you ? I do enjoy your channel keep posting em .
Tried caulking a crack in the tile floor and baseboards but it came out looking like garbo This looks promising especially with the small bottle. Gonna give it a try next weekend
"I don't think there's any place where the water can get in" * literally shows beads of caulk with holes in them at the same time * 😉 I mean, I hate caulking and I feel your pain, but if there are small holes, that's exactly where the water is going into and not evaporating out of. The point is that you should do it thoroughly or not at all, I'd think. But I've been putting off recaulking my own shower for two years now, so who am I to say anything!
Man… I WISH I had known about the alcohol thing to smooth out the joint… how many times I've tried to use silicone and just gotten skunked in the smoothing process… EXCELLENT tip I said it WAY back with the upstairs laundry video, but I'll say it again - you make really, really great instructional videos with really great tips.
Re-doing the caulk is one of my least favorite jobs for sure. Especially removing the old one. One time I re-did my entire shower with a light almond color because my wife thought it would look good with our brownish tiles but after I was done she decided clear would be better and asked me to re-do the whole thing the next day.
If silicone fails in 10 or 15 years, 9 times out of 10 it is because it was inferior installation like the one in this video. We routinely get 20 year manufacturer performance guarantees.They would not give a 20 year guarantee unless they expect it to last longer. We usually start seeing failures at about 25-30 years.( excluding physical damage from the owner)I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years and my family has been in the industry since the mid 1960s It’s not rocket science but you have to use common sense like not spraying something to keep it from sticking when you are trying to get it to stick.
Pretty nice work, Johnny! It really looks great, much better than before! 😃 But yeah... I need to do the same. And I'm definitely not looking forward to it. 🙄 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good video. I would not use pure bleach. The best ratio to kill mold is 1 part bleach to 10 parts water or 1 cup to 1 gallon of water. I wouldn't use a bleach mixture for the drywall or wood mold, only hard nonporous surfaces like tile.
i think you made a small mistake.. It was beter to remove first all of the caulking. you put on the outside first new caulking.. and then you go to the inside. i should first do all the clean-up work and then as finishing put evreywhere new caulking. on youre method there can get water behing the door strips... and then it closed in by caulking all the joints. i know my english is horrible but im hope that you take my point..
This is little more than an advertisement. Rather than teach a skill, this simply teaches you to buy things. And, now that I'm thinking about it, this is what most of Crafted Workshop videos are. Under the guise of "do it yourself", Crafted Workshop's MO is "let a hyperspecialized and not inexpensive product do it for you." Unlike Johnny Brooke (sp?) though, we don't get all of this hyperspecialized equipment sent to us for free.
Partner, I would suggest that for presentation purposes, let alone longer lasting results, you have to clean the grime, mold, scale and general scum in your joints and tile. Not a very enticing view to put new sealant along side grime, mold, scale and general scum because the new white only highlights the rest. Good technique, though.
Should only caulk the outside of the shower frame. If you caulk both sides you're not giving water that may get trapped between two lines of caulk an escape route.
Hey, I’ve been a subscriber on RU-vid for the last 5 years. I’m doing an internship at a company rn that makes super cool diy shower kits. From watching your videos it’s the kind of thing that you’d be into. I’d need to check with my boss but if you’d be interested I think you’d really like the product and they might be able to do a deal with you.
This was helpful, but I strongly recommend that you skip the masking tape. Application is time-consuming and if you pull the tape off too late, you will have a serious mess on your hands. I just re-caulked my shower and waited too long before removing the tape. Using a wet finger to smooth the new caulk is simple and easy.
