The Secret Caulking Tip That Will Transform Your Ability! 

I'm a carpenter and when I have to caulk, say, a vanity, I lay masking tape 1/8" above the vanity on the wall and another, 1/8" out from the wall on the vanity. Then I run the bead, not being careful at all. Then I scoosh it out with my finger and immediately pull the tape. That makes a totally perfect bead every time. I've been doing it that way for 50 years.

I’ve never caulked but just bought a tube and now I have some ideas on how to do it. Wish me luck. At 73 I just painted and patched a huge hole .. hung shelves..bought my first drill and hung curtain rods.. now I’m going to caulk. I wish I learned sooner .. but happy to have done it all myself. You RU-vid guys are everything to me! Thank you so much❤

I followed your three instructions, including buying a dripless gun, and experienced a pro-style result for the first time, with almost no cleanup or re-touch ups on a big project that I would have previously spent much more time. You nailed it, thank you and grateful for the advice.

I'm 58 years old. I've caulked professionally and personally on many homes. Do I know it all? Hell no, and that's why I opened this video. This guy told me a lot of what I already know and a few really good tips that I didn't. I like how you kept it moving. Not boring at all even on what I already knew. I wish more instructional video's followed this pace. Keep up the good work. The biggest mistake I've ever and many times made is simply cutting the tip too large. It's easier to add a little more on the first stroke and then cut the tip a little larger than to clean up a mess from a tip that's too large. Awesome video. Never considered sanding the tip into a corner. Thats really awesome!!!!!!

I just bought a house and needed to do some caulking in the bathrooms and kitchen. I've never done a single line of caulking in my life, and all the tips in this video made me an instant caulking pro! I did a cleaner job everywhere than the previous homeowners. thanks for all your help!

As a professional painter there is one bit of critique I have and that is you are not putting enough caulk into those new trim lines. On existing trim you can get away with a small bead (to clean up a bad caulk line) if there is no cracking, but on new and cracked trim lines you need to add more caulk or it will just crack again within a few years. Caulking is meant to flex as the drywall and trim shrink and expand at different rates but if there isn't enough, or the product you are using isn't very good, it will not be able to handle that amount of movement and will fail. Another thing to keep in mind is that fast dry caulking is less flexible in the long term. Choosing the right product is key to having a quality finish that will last a long time. Appreciate the video!

Man, I've been caulking for more than 40 years, and I'm pretty good, but the orientation line and sanding the tip are game changers! Thank you

I've been caulking for over 30 years and can always use a new tip. I loved the idea of the orientation line and sanding the tip for placement. Usually when I caulked, I had to keep checking the tube to make sure it's lined up properly. Your tip takes the guessing out of it. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video! Good luck on your projects everyone!

With the exception of (2) times… this man almost made it through 7 minutes of talking about caulking (clean tip, putting into the crack, etc.) without busting out laughing. Nice work!

Thank You Thank You Thank You!!! My husband thought I was nuts when I asked if he had a “dripless” caulking gun!! Then he saw why! All of your tips were easy, useful & effective! But that ‘ORIENTATION LINE’ was genius! You are the best!! I am now the ‘Caulking Queen’ in our family!!!

You saved me and made me look great at my new job. I have caulked in my own home and not to bad at it but your tips, I saw a while back. At my new job the bathroom sink needed caulking. I removed the old, cleaned it up, used your tips and you and I did a grand job of it and no mess! THANKS for making me look good!

After decades of pain and agony, you manage to simplify and explain this nasty dark art thoroughly and completely, all without punching a hole in the drywall. The fact that you didn't punch a hole in the drywall is what impresses me most, truth be told. Thank you for your precision.

No joke, these tips changed everything for me. I used to dread caulking my trim work, and now I actually look forward to it because it’s become so easy to make it all look really professional.

Retired General here, seen it all. What I learned here is the "orientation line". Great idea since some caulking is done in not the best of light. Of course if your square cutting the tip it doesn't matter but your method allows for a more precision bead with less to wipe out. This old dog just learned a new trick. Hats off to you!

YES! Somebody who speaks CLEARLY, and not in a RUSH, and isn't reading it all so sounds natural, and isn't showing off! So many speakers know' what they're talking about, but don't know how to TALK. So very easy listening. Thanks, man..

As a professional caulking master I've been caulking for 857 years and even I appreciated these tips

Sanding the tip, marking it and that dripless gun are game changers! Great tips man! I have also heard that more expensive caulking is almost always worth it, it flexes better and lasts longer. I was just doing some vapour barrier and I would say that when you are using accoustic sealant, put the plastic up first and let the edges hang, then go back and caulk the edges. I caulked the edges first on one section and made a huge mess!

A huge THANK YOU! Just WOW. I wish this had been online 30 years ago. Caulking has always been the last detail of my wet area DIY jobs, and I hated every minute of it. Your demonstration with explanation is perfect. My latest job, thanks to you, looks professional. It was so simple. I won’t be hating or dreading it any longer.

The orientation line - I can't believe I never thought of that before. Brilliant.

I've been caulking for 35 years and never thought of making an orientation line or pre-grooving the tip. Simple and genius! I was laughing when you held up the two caulk guns and was dissin my goto one wth the thumb release cause I thought you had the two confused... the other looked like the kind I avoid, but I didn't know there was a dripless design. Cool info. Thanks for the outake from the B-roll 👍🏼

WOW!!! I'm preparing to paint the inside of my 1500 SF house. I bought 4 tubes of flex caulking and then saw your video. Thank GOD. I was one of those who would cut a 3/8" hole in the caulking tube, spend more time trying to wipe most of it off and get it smooth. I followed your instructions and did all the trim and baseboards including the bottom (my house is all tile) with 1 tube. AND it looks professional AND no mess. Thank you so much. This old guy was saved from a ton of aggravation! My wife was happy too because she didn't have to "hear" me.......

I'm a novice. This by far was the best & most comprehensive video for caulking that I've seen to date.

30+ years in the trade, solid advice here. One thing to add....when you're done caulking, but there's still material in the tube, seal the tip of the tube up with painter's tape. Wrap it around a few times and pinch it tight. Most of the time siliconized painter's caulk won't harden in the tip if you get back into it in a reasonable amount of time, but if you let it sit too long it can set up and not want to flow again. The tape helps keep the air out of it, keeping it pliable and ready for the next project. Taping the tip also works with pure silicone. I always hated throwing away 3/4 of a $6 tube of clear or white silicone because the tip was plugged up. Tape it up and you can usually go back to it days/weeks later.

This is legit the best how-to caulking video I've ever seen. Every time I've ever caulked before it's turned into exactly the mess shown in the beginning of the video. Today I caulked both the base moulding and the sink I installed in my bathroom, and it came out PERFECTLY. I hardly had to wipe it down. *AND* I just had a plain old caulking gun *and* I accidentally cut too big a hole to boot!. Didn't matter... Thanks for sharing your tips and experience, Mr. FC. Cheers

I really appreciate videos like this, simple useful tutorials, not clickbaity, no sponsors. I wish more of youtube was like this

For caulking around cabinetry, or other high finish areas, I always mask off either side of the desired caulk seam and use my finger to feather it out into the fill zone between the tape edges with an even radius. After removing the masking tape, you will get a perfect caulk line every time. It's too much work for baseboard, but essential for kitchen and bath finishes that are subject to higher visualization.

2:44 When you're caulking just keep your tip clean before you put it into the crack 😅🤣

As a DIY caulking has always been a nightmare for me…just for that I’ve been procrastinating caulking some baseboards at home. You have no idea how much this video has helped me. Thank you so much!

This brings back memories. In my former life, I used to be a carpenter and did finish work (cabinets, etc.). I was always picked to caulk the laminate/Formica. I cut the tip a unique way and watched the leading side of the tip rather than the trailing side; this way, I could observe how much caulk was flowing out, and the critical point was I NEVER swiped the bead with anything. I would drape the countertops to keep dirt, dust, and debris out of the caulk as it dried. The results were always complimented.

Thank you thank you thank you. I'm currently doing this very job and followed all your tips. It's absolutely night and day to what I was doing before. No masking tape and beautiful lines. No messy caulk going everywhere. Literally saved me 2 days of touch up paint work. Thank you so much!!

00:30 Smallest, angled hole; 01:05 Groove tip; 01:48 Orientation line; 02:11 Dripless gun; 02:42 Wet rag; 03:57 Replicate tip angle (steeper) and use orientation line. Thanks!

I like not to cut the point with a knife, but clip it with a (side-)cutter. This squeezes the point or caulkchannel together, forming a slight oval. Together with the angled cutoff, makes this very easy caulking.

Having done a poor job with caulking in the past, thank you for this simple and organized approach.

Great tips! I've been painting since I was 13 yrs old. Always worked for my pops. I'm 37 now. All these tips come from experience. The only thing that sucks about caulking is when you have to do it to a whole brand new house. By the time you are done, the nail on your main finger is becomes thin as hell. That or your finger will burst and have to put on the painters tape and use another finger. Good thing there's 10 of them. Thumbs included 😂

You're the only guy out of several that has actually explained the speed and amount! Also, none of the others said anything about a line for orientation. Thanks. Helped a ton!!!

Thanks for being a professional when talking about caulk, how important it is to keep the tip clean, advice on preventing the drip, and suggestions on how to speed up when laying it down.

Painters tape 1/8 inch on each side of you caulk joint. Works great especially on bath or kitchen tile joints where you want a professional looking job. Let it set for awhile and pull tape away slowly. You can also wet your finger with a bit of soapy water to smooth the joint out and have NO fear cause you're painters tape has you covered literally.. saw this done by some tile guys putting up my backsplash in my kitchen...works great.

Love the idea of the guide line! Such a simple idea. I’ll definitely be putting that into practice. One tip I can also recommend, is wipe down your area with a damp cloth before applying caulk. It helps with cleaning off excess as it slows the moisture absorption.

I’ve been caulking for 42 years. But always learning. With my aging eyes. That index line is KING! Thanks

Thanks for the great tips! Liked the sanding part. I have an other tip. When wiping with my finger, I always have a small bowl of dishwash and water to dip the finger in before wiping the caulk. Makes it much easier and the calk wont stick so much where it´s not supposed to. Also makes it easier to correct smaller mistakes.

Tip. If you have a RAT test for Covid, depending on the kit you have, don’t throw away the tube that holds the liquid. It fits tightly over the opened nozzle tip to prevent the caulking paste from drying.

I'm an avid DYI'er and have worked for a remodeling company in the past, your very 1st tip would of been the absolute dream, if I would of thought/known then. Glad to know it now moving forward, excellent information. Thanks my man

I've done quite a bit of caulking, including sealant on CF-18s and I thought I was pretty good at it but it jad been a while since I've done it so I watched this video and liked the tips. Tried them all and ended up with the best caulking job I've ever done. Thanks for posting.

Good tips. I've been caulking my own stuff for many years and I learned things to make my jobs better. I never knew there was such a thing as a dripless caulking gun. Ordering it now thanks so much.

These are great tips that vastly improved my caulking jobs and made them so much easier. I have an additional tip that makes caulking even easier. Sometimes you have to hold the caulking gun in a position where you can’t see the orientation line because you’re looking at the bottom of the tip opening. Also, the small opening and angle of the tip can make it hard to see the position of the tip. In addition to the tip orientation line at the point of the tip, I put an orientation line at the bottom of the tip with a “B” to indicate it is the bottom. That way I know where the point of the tip is no matter what orientation the gun is in. Great videos with great information.

I had to search back and find this video just so I could leave a comment. These tips are certified gold! I had a baseboard installation in a rental today and your tips saved me time, mess, and turned out much better than any of my other efforts over the last 25+ years. Thank you!

Aa a painter of 30 years, I never cut my nozzle and therefore never have to turn my tube as it is always the same. The dripless gun is absolutely your best friend. I carry around a paint pot with water and use a chux kitchen cloth. As the cloth has many holes it allows the caulking to easily wash out in my pot of water so I don't end up with a cloth full of caulking, on Australia we call caulk, no more gaps Also with the uncut nozzle and a small hole, if the gun is held at 90 degrees to the gap it leaves no excess. Also you can lean it over slightly and rather than dragging the nozzle push it away from you and the nozzle will act like you running your finger along the gapped crack Or you can stick with what this guy said as it seems to work too May Jesus Bless you All

I caulked my son's bathroom this week using your tips. My daughter-in-law and son were really happy. Thank you for the tips!

Awesome tips! I've been in construction for 30+ years. Always love learning new things. That's one of the best things about construction. I don't think I will know everything even by the time I retire! Anyway I wanted to mention to people that there is a huge difference in caulks. Some are very specific to their application. That being said, they all apply differently and some are filled with air bubbles. They will push caulk out when you least expect it. Always be prepared. Don't get discouraged. It's not rocket science.

Been doing this for 35 yrs. love your first tip. Never though to shape the tip with the sand paper, though I have thought about marking an orientation line, I never seem to have a sharpi around. Going to put one with my caulking tools. I love the contouring tools for silicone too for certain applications. And your right about a good gun and applying less not more. Thanks!

Your video has made me a better caulker. I broke down and bought a non drip caulk gun and it is wonderful. I'm cutting my angle on the tip and sanding it down on sandpaper. Adding the guide line makes a world of difference too. It's just so much better caulking now for me than ever before. I don't use my finger though. I have large hands and fingers. What I do is place some warm water in a small bucket, add about 3 or 4 drops of dawn, and I get my sponge wet and wring out as much water as I can and use the corner of the sponge to even out the bead. Works great. Thanks a ton.

for someone who is caulking for the first time (and seeing your bloopers at the end) you did great! AND I did a decent job caulking my bathroom thanks to you!

Just came across your channel! I'm starting off on home renovations and I'm so grateful for pros like yourself who share so much of their expertise. It makes such a difference for DIYers like myself and saves us so much time, effort and money. Thank you from Texas!

Anyone else doubled over laughing? 😂😂🤣 Excellent TIPS my friend!

Why did you describe this demonstration as "brutal"? As a reasonably experienced lifelong "home handyman," I thought both your advice and your presentation were EXCELLENT, in every respect. Most-if not all-of us take caulking for granted and make somewhat of a mess when we're doing it. Thanks to you, my future caulking jobs will turn out far better than they used to! I'm very grateful for your taking the time to share your methods.

I’m a caulk a holic. I do a load of finish work and love to make my projects look perfect! Ty so much for the time saving tips!

As an alternative to sanding the tip to get a 90 degree profile, you can just cut the tip twice. You already have the knife so it's just a two step process, rather than setting up sandpaper on a right angled board. First cut as shown in the video, then rotate the tube 90 degrees and cut the nozzle again at the same angle. You will need a good Stanley knife as the second cut is literally just a slither of plastic.

Dap brand caulk has that infamous air bubble purposely included inside of the tube (usually around 3/4 of the way toward the bottom end of the tube), so that when the pressure is released on the caulk gun completely, the air bubble inside of the tube is pressurized to the point where the caulk continues to splooge from the tip of the tube and onto the floor or carpeted area (especially if you are working on a ladder caulking crown moulding). This causes for lots of waste emitted from the tube and more sales for Dap corporation. My remedy for this is to squeeze the tube with the caulk bead spreading hand immediately when the pressure is released from the gun and continue the caulk bead to the end by squeezing the sides of the tube by hand. Ace brand 'Window and Door' caulk is notorious for the air bubble also, but not usually as big as the complimentary Dap brand air bubble.

As a professional painting contractor, I can fully endorse this video. These are very good tips for the do-it yourselfers. Some of the YT videos giving tips on caulking are so unhelpful. I saw one meant to give tips on painting vertical stripes on drywall in contrasting colors. It told viewers to run a bead of clear silicone over your tape lines prior to applying the second color in order to prevent the color from bleeding under the tape. That was some pretty stupid advice. Sure, it will prevent the second color from bleeding under the tape, but your going to see every line due to the buildup of silicone being smeared over your drywall. And that is to say nothing about the insane amount of time involved with running silicone up and down walls and then having to finger it smooth. Then if that silicone dries long enough, good luck pulling the tape off the walls easily. Dumb, dumb, dumb. Plus, paint does not like to stick to silicone.... so good luck if you ever want to repaint your walls. If anything, it should of suggested clear acrylic caulk (even though that is a bad idea too). Of course the best and simplest method is to simply brush a coat of the base color over the tape lines and allow it to dry before applying the second color. That is a very quick and easy method (less expense, materials and time involved) to create sharp, crisp, straight lines. The base paint color will get under the tape enough to lock out the contrasting color, while not showing up as a different sheen, unlike silicone smeared up and down your walls.

I did a brief stint covering for our drywall "prep" guy when he quit and I was managing a large drywall company. You can achieve lightning fast caulk times by following the nozzle with your finger. It takes some practice to dial in finger pressure, speed, and gun trigger pressure, but when you do there is very minimal fall-back needed to make it perfect. I used to literally run on stilts, caulking every inside corner in an entire house in 2-3 hours, over rough *(ROUGH)* knockdown texture. DAP 230 rules the roost for workability and open time.

Great idea with the line on the tip. One more thing I would add is to always wipe in both directions when possible. It seats the caulk in the joint better and adheres better

2 or 3 light passes vs 1 heavy - priceless tip! Thank you.

As someone who used hundreds of caulk guns I can agree dripless is the best but also the feel for the gun in really important find one you are really comfortable with and stick to it. At one point i had like 8-9 guns in the van. As I would use them I would keep track of what i did and didn’t like about them. I narrowed it down to 4 guns now. 1 is that newborn gun you showed (2 different styles) another one is a large gun for the bigger tube of construction adhesives. And the last is for the smaller tubes of construction adhesives, grout caulk or blackjack. (harder stuff to squeeze out) the newborns are pretty hard to squeeze with thicker material.

If my bead is too big, i’ve found that an expired credit card or hotel key works well too. Sometime i’ll have to cut the corners a bit if the diameter of the rounded edge is too small. For me, I just make sure that the card is angled slightly in the direction of travel so that it smooshes the caulk down into the joint a bit better. Not sure if any of this is a best practice or not, but it’s worked for me.

As the worlds worst caulker, you have no idea how much I appreciate finding this video. Liked and subscribed.

I've been applying caulk for over 35 years and I never drag the gun along the seam. I learned from day one that you cut the tip square across and push the tube along ahead of you. The square cut leaves a clean concave bead and, with practise, you almost never have to run your finger along the bead. I've taught this method to a lot of trades people and they never go back to his method.

I laughed at the "keeping the tip clean before you put it in the crack"🤣

I've needed this one for 45 years. The line on the tube is great idea. I use a spent 28 gauge shot-gun shell for a lid on partially used tubes of adhesive or caulk. Fits perfectly and never dries out.

I’m a newbie redoing the caulking in my boyfriend’s apartment bathroom because whoever did it before was awful, and this video has been so incredibly helpful and saved me so much time doing trial and error!!! Thank you for this!!!

I have done a fair bit of decorating in my time and caulk is a life changer. Very easy to use and you can fill gaps very quick and clean. Rather than filler that would take for ever to do the job.

Have most of this under my belt... but one can always learn more. The orientation line is a great idea. Many time I stop and check the tip orientation visually but adding a line is a killer tip - thanks.

If one thing is clear from these comments, it is that there is NO consensus on what works best. Each person offers their personal experience as the Ultimate Expert’s opinion and anyone who does things differently is looked down upon. Also, it is clear that most people simply prefer to continue doing whatever they’ve been doing. I’m grateful that you, the creator of this RU-vid video, took the time to show what you do. I tried your method and am happy with the results.

Wow, what a difference! I had a fairly large trim job to complete, and your tips helped a ton!!! Thanks so much for sharing!

Love this, just doing up my old house, need all the tips I can get. I was also told pushing the caulk rather than pulling works pretty well with a flat cut on the tip.

People say that being married and being parents requires working as a team. Never expected that, that also transfers so much to jobs in the home. My husband and I just bought our first house. He turns out the be the electrician and I the painter 😂. After messing up my first caulking jobs I'm ready to try again after this very helpfull video! Thank you 😊

Excellent - concise, packed with useful facts, no "look at me" junk. If only everything on RU-vid was this good. Thanks.

Very helpful video! 10 out of 10 times I caulk, I’m for sure wearing more than I actually used! It actually makes a huge difference after painting because the paint will be more shiny where excessive caulking is and noticeable. I’m a huge DIY guy and for the most part do a good job but my cuts and angles are sometimes off and use more caulking than should be used. Great video and thank you!

I never noticed that there were two kinds of pressure system for caulking guns. I am 61 years old and very happy to have learned it in your video thanks for the advice

Also, A couple of drops of dish soap in a spray bottle sure helps make the finger smoothing go much easier and cleaner. Run your bead of caulk, spray a light mist over the bead with the soapy water, a little mist on your fingers and swipe. Works like magic!

Love it! Ready to apply these tips on my bathroom renovation project 👊

I still use these tips to this day. Not that I'm caulking much as a computer programmer, but it's really handy. Prepare the groove, add an orientation line, use a dripless gun, keep a wet rag handy, use the right angle and you're good to go!

The "groove" tip looks great -- gonna do that with the sandpaper next time. Except I can't wrap my head around calling that a groove; I'd call that a chamfer or a bevel. But whatever you call it, it's a great idea, thank you.

This video changed my caulking life. Your tips made a miserable job easy and looked great for the first time ever.

Such a great vid. I learned a lot. I consider by self a very good caulker… and I learned a few worthwhile tips. I have another tip taught to me by a carpenter,tile layer doing one of my many Reno’s.keep a small glass of lukewarm water with a few drops dish soap at the site and when you need to make the swipe with the finger to seal ,first dip your finger in the soap water. Your finger glides more smoothly as the caulking does not stick to your finger. Also the cleaning rag for wiping gun tip, walls, use same soapy water on rag , does a better job,keeps job site from needing a cleanup at end end Looking forward to exploring all your other videos

OMG! I thought I was the only person on Earth that did this down to the orientation line. He does it 100% the right way. The only think I do different is that instead of using a rag I use a tiling sponge that I cut in half in a small bucket of warm water. That way I can actually pull extra caulking off and make a nice almost 90. In addition, if the trim is well done (which it almost always is because I cope and know a few tricks) I use a wire to open the tube which is smaller than the one that comes on the caulking gun. If you need a big hole the trim is probably poorly installed, but as a general rule the hole should be the size (average) of the gap between the trim and the wall.

With the common caulking lever gun, once you’re done using it, or take a break, or if you have to stop to move to a new location, you can just press the lever release and it’ll stop compressing the caulking so you won’t have any spillage.

I’m watching RU-vid because I’m getting ready to build a deck. Thumbing through the videos I saw your caulking tips, as much caulking I have done and will do, I thought I’d watch. I’m glad I did. The black line on the tube tip; excellent. The sandpaper angle for corners; excellent. Mostly, the dripless caulking gun; excellent. I would have paid for it by now with all the caulking I’ve wasted.

Great tips. I like to make sure that when I cut my angle, always do it so the tube's main label faces outwards, away from the wall. It helps you keep it loaded in the gun properly, just like the small line you place on the tip and especially if you swap the tube in and out of the gun a bunch.

Thank you!! I never knew the caulking guns had different versions! I have wasted so much caulk because I couldn’t stop the flow of caulk. 😝

Watched video. Tossed my 40 year old guns. Bought no-drip gun. Bought DynoFlex. Trimmed tip resulting in smallest tip hole in 40 years. Sanded tip as instructed. AND started caulking 40 linear feat of stair casing. WOW. I am a Caulking King!!! Best caulk I have ever done! Thank you from Oregon

Great job on the professionalism while talking about "putting the tip in the crack" and "cleaning the tip," etc.. And that's why I don't have a channel.

Really quality tips! The thing that your speed of pulling and squeeze rate are huge! You can squeeze too much and not pull fast enough or go opposite, the more in sync you can keep those 2 is hugely beneficial!

Great tutorial, packed full of hints and zero waffle filler... Almost feel I could caulk like a pro after watching this.

Your video looks so EASY to make. It's THAT good! (There's a saying that good reading is hard to write, and hard reading is easy to write.) And then you showed the bloopers at the end. Thanks for the hard work you put in to make your fantastic video!!!👍🏻

I'm a window and door installer. Two things: #1 caulking in trim is a bad idea. Especially when using MDF mouldings, they shrink and expand far too much and in 9 out of 10 cases it will separate your drywall paper or paint from the wall. #2 a square cut tip is superior to ANY slanted tip because it's omni directional. You can achieve the same or better and cleaner beads by "pushing" the caulk into the remaining cavity AND you can see it fill from the front of the bead meaning less necessity for going back over and building beads up. I've pushed probably nearly 50 000 tubes of various different kinds of caulking and this trick works with every single one.

Been painting interiors for 30 yrs. All good tips...infact for thos of us who do it everyday, most of that is almost second nature. Done without even thinking about it. But here is proof that an old dog CAN learn new tricks. The orientation line. Never seen it done...never heard of it being done....makes so much sense I feel like an idiot for it not having been intuitive. I will be using this from now on. THANKS!

Great video. Some big tips I would include is how to properly caulk inside corners, caulking really wide gaps and a really important tip is to have a bucket of water with a rag or grout sponge to keep your caulking fingers moist.

I just bought a fixer upper and have been learning everything as I go … in my mind caulking would be easy but when I started doing it, it was a disaster. 😂 So here I am getting a lesson on RU-vid and I’m SO GLAD I did. Thanks!

Wish I had these tips years ago, amazing how much you can learn in 5 minutes with a good presenter

I can't believe this guy didn't mention wiping the edges after the initial wipe. The first wipe doesn't always smooth out the outside edges. The main gap that you filled might look good but the outside edges where the caulking thins out to nothing might have ridges or not be very smooth. When you finally paint the caulked area, all of the imperfections and irregularities are magnified. The outside edges need to be smooth. The way to accomplish this is to look after your first pass smoothing it out and make sure the whole line is smooth. The best caulking job is one that after being painted, you can't really tell there was caulking applied. You might know it was because there's no gap, but that line is smooth, along the middle and outside.