The instructions of an older primeline kit had you start with the # 3 hole, and continue with the 2nd, and first holes. You leave in the follower and move it so #4 and 5 holes are exposed and work in that direction. I found this after using this method, and think the old way would have been easier.
The tape trick is very helpful, but there is still one problem: the spring, when it is not compressed, fills the entire chamber and there is no room to easily drop in the pins. The tape helps for actually picking up the pin, but it is not strong enough to hold on to the pin when I try to line it up with the chamber, and it just falls off the tape. Any suggestions?
I am guessing these locks vary a lot by the amount of space the springs take up. In his video they are almost entirely inside the spring slot and not in the chamber. In mine they were about halfway. If the spring fills up the entire chamber that's pretty rough. Not sure what to suggest. Buy a new one maybe or find smaller springs to swap in
If you start with the hole in the middle of the cylinder and work your way out, then pull the follower tool clear through to expose the two holes at the other end and work backwards out the other end it makes it a tad easier.
That was a great tip. Another thing that really helped me (since the pins wouldn't stick to any of the tape I have, and I have a slight tremor): Use the slotted end of the standard Schlage follower to "guide" the top pin into place. I.e. place the follower with the side of the slot lined up with the hole, put the spring in, then drop the top pin into the slot, and use a little thin screwdriver or wire tool or flip it into position along the side of the slot (which then acts as a guide) and just push it down, with light turning pressure on the follower to cover the pin once it's down. You could probably cut a custom follower for this purpose as well.
30 years ago, a locksmith showed me how to key locks and outfitted me with parts. He provided extra springs and such. I asked what they were for and he said that some day, I would have a bad day! Today was my day and your video was very helpful. Thank you!
Wow! This saved me big time! The "brass magnet" is brilliant. I was able to use a 11/32 deep ratchet socket as I didn't have a plug follower handy. Worked great! I was back in business in less than two minutes.
Oh the many times I have fiddled around in tiny chambers like such with a pair of tweezers trying to line up the pins with the holes and push them down into the chamber with a pick WHILE trying to push the plug follower in! Your an expert! This wire tool will come in SO handy!
This video saved the day! Had to fix a lock, ended up doing it following the video with what I could get my hands on: tweezers, a matchstick with scotch tape and an AAA battery for the follow through tool. Thank you so much for sharing it !
This technique helped me a lot. At first I didn't believe in it since my spings needed to be pressed down more and fought back hard. But of the three videos I found on this topic this was the easiest technique. 5 stars!!!
This worked very well for me. I had previously tried for a few hours with tweezers. Also a light colored plastic follower is good, because it helps illuminate the inside of the chamber.
A quick question I couldn’t find an answer to on the Schlage website. I am hoping to rekey a Schlage encode, smart deadbolt and a Schlage B 60N deadbolt to use this same key. Is the five pin cylinder on the Encode deadbolt the same or similar to the five pin cylinder used in the B60N deadbolt? Would they use the same pins if I bought a rekey kit online to rekey these cylinders? A vendor on eBay is telling me they use different pins, but he doesn’t sound that sure of himself. Many thanks for your help.
Thank you! It had been a while since I last rekeyed and forgot the crucial step. Thought I was going to have to buy a new lock until I saw your video, worked like a charm!
This is a wonderful "how to" video on re-assembly of the cylinder and driver pins for a lock after my "bad day" mistake of pulling the cylinder out of the chamber without having the right tool to stop the driver pins and springs from exploding out of the mechanism. After acquiring tools like Leo used in the video, I was able to follow his process to restore my lock to working condition. It's difficult for a newbie like me to reliably get both the spring and driver pins where they need to be. The further into the chamber you're trying to work, the harder it is to do. One slight difference that I'd recommend is to start with the installation of spring and driver pin in the 3rd (middle) slot rather than the very end (5th pin) because it is easier to manage. My pin installation sequence was: 3, 4, 5, 2, 1. Fortunately the plug follower I had can pass through the entire chamber so that I could do this sequence. Thanks!
Rekeyed 3 Baldwin knob sets and managed to dump the springs and pins on one of them. Couldn't get single sided tape to work so used double sided tape (Very easy). I too did two pins on one end and then did the remaining 3 pins from the other end of the chamber. Thanks for the video, it was a life saver.
Wire tool with scotch tape wow that's old school! But if someone has a locksmith tool as a plug follower laying around the house that someone most probably also has pinning tweezers. Prime Line should have made this video using a ratchet socket as a plug follower, then this video would make more sense. I bet there's a million times more household that have a ratchet kit at home rather than a locksmith plug follower.
I work at one of the large HI stores and had to rekey a Schlage Deadbolt. While pulling out the follower the pins and springs came out. I was able to slide the top brass sliver of metal to reveal the holes. I put back the pins and springs and was able to slide the cover over them one at a time. What a pain, but it got done. I will remember this trick. My issue is removing the cylinder with the follower, somehow the pins fall out. Anyone have any tips to prevent this? I know turning the keys 45 degrees is the first step, but anything else?
This is a great tip, trying to replace the parts with a tweezers is tedious and frustrating. I had my lock come apart and everything went flying. It appears that I have lost a driver pin for what I believe to be a Schlage B60. They look like capital i's. Can I use an old key pin of similar size or does it have to be exact? Where can I get replacements? Of the 5 one is just a straight pin, no capital i. What is the significance and correct placement of that?
I re-keyed 4 door locks today, and had two (due to user rushing) that needed the pins and springs reset. Thanks to your great videos and product I did it - even tho the store where I bought it said it would be too hard. NOT! Just patience and a good pair of tweezers. Thank you!
What if one of the springs happened to get lost? I've got the remaining four in place with driver pins, but the fifth is empty since I can't find the spring. The key seems to turn fine, but will there be any difference in how my lock works?
Just make sure driver and bottom pins are removed. You will now have a 4 pin Lock that is easier to pick. You could cannibalize on old lock to restore for free, or buy new springs for cheap. Keep the 2 pins for later. Be glad you did't loose 4 springs, you would be left with a 1 Pin tumbler lock? Good Luck
What do you do with the dual cylinder lock? I don't know what to do with that middle black part that rotates and actually locks the door. It can't be inserted after you assembly both cylinders, and if you insert it after the first cylinder, then you can't assembly the second cylinder.
+Kornelije Kovac Not sure I understand your question. Did you watch the other video first? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Glfj_DYOkcU.html
I wanted to share my experience in case it helps someone. While disassembling my lock, I accidentally let the pins and springs fly out. I didn't have any locksmithing tools, but I was able to place the springs and pins back in using tweezers, and hold them in using the bolt itself (by slowly sliding the bolt farther and farther into the cylinder as I placed each spring and pin).
As a locksmith I find putting the follower in the cylinder covering the first two holes, start in the middle (3rd hole) use tweezers to fit the pin in the hole, push the follower up against the pin and push down with the tip of the tweezer. You now successfully put the pin in the hole and can start to work through the pin hole while covering them all.
This is a unique way never saw this method before. I have a pair of tweezers that hug the pins the tip is round and it truly makes handling the pins a breeze. I put the follower in my vice then insert pin push the bible onto the follower until it covers the pin rinse and repeat. The core I have has I guess a nut is the best way to describe it on the back of the core that covers a pin and spring, one end of my follower is what tightens and loosens that nut. What is the purpose of that rear pin and spring?
