You have done a spectacular job of explaining the topic and I cannot express enough gratitude. Has a season reloader I could not stop watching and agreeing with everything.
As we are very new to reloading, this helped me tremendously. I was confused yesterday as my 9mm cases were not measuring the same as the manual, which I had forgotten was the MAXIMUM case length, meaning my overall loaded cartridge length was shorter than, again, the MAXIMUM. I'd completely forgotten about the minimum OAL column. Now I know all my dummy rounds I pressed are within specs. I am updating all my recipe cards immediately so I don't forget to note that again. Thank you very much.
Right there with you. Was wondering if that technical note was written somewhere within the Lee or Lyman Manuals to clarify that but did not see it as an explanation. Of course, it may certainly BE there, but I wasn't able to locate that myself so your point is the same as mine. Needed to know that was the 'maximum'.
Nice tutorial Mr. Murphy. A few years back at a DNR Range I was working at we had a gentleman hurt a Taurus handgun he was shooting. He suffered a small cut on his hand. He switched to his rifle and blew the bolt into his cheek losing a couple teeth. Come to find out he was new to reloading, listened to some keyboard cowboys. He was starting at the maximum load and working UP. I banned him from the range unless he had factory ammunition. A number of reloaders tried to help him to no avail. If it wasn't on the internet it was a lie.
I have encountered many loads that I had pressure signs before reaching maximum. Scary stuff. I once met a guy who refused to shoot bullpup style firearms because he saw a similar chamber explosion to what you describe. He said the last place he wanted the chamber was where his cheek weld was going to be.
@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 I worked at that DNR RANGE part time for a couple three years. I can't even begin to relate the assinine stupidity I encountered there. I threw people out daily for their actions. Like Ron White always said, 'ya can't fix stupid.' In my humble opinion, the people that shouldn't procreate, are the same people that shouldn't have firearms.
Lyman and speer are my go to books. I love Lee up to page 159. The reloading data is to sparce on alliant powders which are my go to. Take care. Subscribed.
I have a problem, im using the lowest load for 223 remington for 55 grain fmj with h335. But my primers have backed out. The max is 2.260 inches i did 2.250 and 2.255. Although when i did 2.255 they backed out less than 2.250. So should i just mame the 2 260 to see if they dont back out and if they do what should i do?
Do you only have one brand of primer and brass? If the brass is mixed, then I would try a different brand of primer (may not be fitting tight enough). Also need to know how the primers feel when you seat them. Also, are you seating your primers below flush? That's the first place I would start.
@murphyfirearmstraining3630 what is the flush?, sorry I'm new to this. They are mixed brass and I was thinking about getting a haul of brass the same kind as used in the book.
@@Exotic9069 so your primers when seated should be slightly below the back of the case. If they are even (flush) with the back of the case or above flush (proud), they may not be seated properly. This would cause them to back out. Thay would be the first thing I would check. Second- with supplies like they are, it could be a slightly small primer (you are using small rifle primers and NOT small pistol primers right)? Thay would be my second thing I would try. Third would be the actual powder charge. Sometimes too light of a charge can vause funny things.
@@Exotic9069 so in that case either your pressure is too low and is doing something funny OR you have a batch of slightly undersized primers. Do you have any other brand of primer available to try? If not, then I would bump your load up from the minimum 0.5 to 1.0 grains and see if that solves the problem. Sometimes loading at min or max weird things happen.
I agree. That is one place where Lyman is superior. Their manuals always have data specifically for their molds. Many of the loads in the Lee manual have an entry for "300 grain lead" which is generic and similar to their mold, but doesn't actually specify their mold. Would be nice if the actual mold came with data even......
