Funny, I go on RU-vid to research Donaldson to a knock off brand and you are using the filters i need, again...for my SCAG as you have here. I have the Briggs 31 HP, SCAG Turf TIGER 61". Nicely done. I will pay the extra for Donaldson. as a side note.......i lived my entire working life operating or working on Heavy equipment...9 out of 10 machines come with Donaldson air filters on those diesels
I just upgraded the old single stage air cleaner on my 2012 Scag Tiger Cat to the Dual-stage Donaldson you have. I think the filters will work fine. Interestingly, about 4 weeks ago I ordered Kawasaki oil filters off Amazon and received a Chinese knock off part not labeled as Kawasaki - so I’m starting to think there is a fair amount of this bait-and-switch stuff going on when you order name brand parts nowadays.
Yep sadly if I order filters I check and make sure they're OEM if not they go right back and always check the return policy to make sure you can get a full refund. I'm surprised the tiger cat did not come with that commercial filter on it, what was the OEM filter or what is the engine?
@@morejelloplease The engine in my Scag is a Kawasaki FS-651v, the OEM air filter is Kawasaki part number 11013-0752. But now I’ve upgraded to the Donaldson canister filter.
I just installed a canister air filter kit on my fr730v. I noticed the filters are seated pretty tight. I had to actually squeeze the filter and twist and pull. How fragile are these ? Paranoid since I had to squeeze it some to get it out. Also ..I've noticed in videos of people removing and replacing these filters ... The filters seem loose when they pop their cap off ...as if they aren't fully seating the filters. I actually have to push on mine with a little force to get it to fully seat. All the videos they seem to be Sloppy loose and not seated. Would damage to the filter be obvious to the eye?
They do make different sizes and lengths, make sure you have Donaldson brand filters and the correct part numbers. They should fight back just a little bit and you'll have to wiggle it side to side and up and down and actually push the filters in about 3/4 of an inch the cap should go on with no Force. removing the filters is the same, wiggle the filter up and down an side to side and work it out. You will see some grooves on the rubber gasket end. Try to match those grooves and notches up with what's inside the canister housing. Shine a flashlight in there to look. Lot of people do more damage by checking these filters because when they pull them out they can knock some dirt onto the secondary filter or sometimes some dirt can fall from the housing and go inside the engine. These filters will last around 100 hours or so depending on your condition, I wouldn't touch them unless you notice a slight reduction in performance, hope this helps.
@@morejelloplease they flex really easy and compress when you grab one and push it in or remove. Are they fairly sturdy even when compressed when removing and installing? Just hate that they compress when removing / installing...paranoid about damage.
@@1hovermale just grab the outer rubber edge and wiggle it in and out, dont compress the filter media itself. you should be installing a new set of clean filters , making sure everything is pushed in, and centered, and snap the lid on. should last 50-100 or even more hours before it needs to be replaced. once you open that lid again or remove a filter to inspect it, you can actually do more damage than good.
@@morejelloplease does the inner filter have a certain direction or orientation it needs to go in? I noticed 6 notches on it on end that goes in first. If you look inside housing there's 6 fins on filter housing. But it would be virtually impossible to line them up or see if it were lined up when inserting. I'm assuming orientation doesn't matter and you just push them in until snug?
