I was a repair tech for Tandy from 1987-1995. I rebuilt many of these beauties. Most of these amp failures were due to intermittent bias pots. Once up and running again these were amazing performers. Thanks for posting, it brought back many fond memories
I rescued a Realistic STA-2100 literally before it went into a dumpster. It doesn't seem to power up. Sending this thing anywhere would break the bank. Hopefully at least one local tech can look at it and see if it can be saved-availability of parts must be extremely difficult, if not impossible.
@@greggoodfellow5928 Better late than never ... About ALL the parts used in that receiver are commonly available or can be replaced by more "modern" instances. The "difficult" parts are potentiometers with loudness-tap, the varco for tuning and coils. Check the fuses before plugging in. Always replace fuses with the same value! VERY IMPORTANT! Check for DC on the speaker output or on the relay BEFORE connecting any speaker. You can check if the tuner-part is still working by plugging some spare-amp into the "tape-out" -plugs. (any kind of old PC-speaker with build-in amp will do the job)
I have a few vintage receivers and just wanted to offer a comment that this Realistic unit stands up very well against all of its relatively power-equivalent contemporaries. The components and build are ridiculously similar to Pioneer, right down to the panel lighting being identical; Stanley 8 volt bulbs. If you are considering an STA-2000 or a 2100, there is zero reason to hesitate, make the purchase. Thanks for the video Tony!
Nice video on this big Realistic receiver. When a customer tells you to replace whatever is necessary, make sure the drivers, finals and differential pairs are the same on both channels to avoid differences in output and sound.
I am learning alot. Going from knowing nothing about electronics to starting to see how things generally work. Thanks for taking the time to explain things.
A friend of mine had one of these in the UK in the early 1980's it sounded incredible, and I know it's a minor thing but I swear one firm twist of the tuning knob would have it travel smoothly the length of the display.
Hi, I really enjoyed this video. I appreciate that you took the time to explain the little details that can make all the difference to someone who is starting out with a repair like this. Regards, Tom
The first "digital display" receiver from Radio Shack would be the STA-240, which was analog with a digital display, from 1980. Next would be the STA-2200, an all digital receiver, also from 1980. The STA-2250 was next in 1981.
That was an excellent receiver back in the day - really shook up the audio world to see the Realistic brand on such a sweet sounding, all out solid performing receiver. Older Realistics were built by Hitachi, and just didn't have the sound quality these Foster units did. I bought a STA-2080 new (next generation after the STA-2000D) and regret ever letting it go. It replaced a Pioneer, and was a far better sounding receiver.
Just picked up one of these in excellent shape. It was well taken care of. Guy who owned it also repairs HiFi. Unfortunately for him he has had to downsize and thus this was up for grabs and picked it up for a steal considering. Anyways wow this thing is powerful. Hardly have it going higher than one watt and it’s crazy loud! It’s been upgraded with Banana plug posts in back too which is great.
I have a Realistic SA-2001, a stereo amplifier with 60 watts per channel. The components of this receiver look familiar! In mine, one of the electrocataclysmic capacitors on the speaker relay board was bad. I replaced all of them and it worked fine. The biggest problem was dirty potentiometers and switches.
I repaired a STA2000 a few months ago. It had more or less the same problems PLUS ... the trimmers to set idling and center current were very bad. All 4 have been replaced. As I didn't have the original end-transistors, I just put the good old 3055 -2955 in it. Works more than OK for me.
@@mikewallace8087 you are talking about the "bulbs" I suppose. So ... no "light" but receiver is working. Check if the voltage to the bulbs is still available. If "yes", replace bulbs OR replace them eventually with LED.
Tony, i know this is an old video, and maybe you already know about it at this point, but just to put it out there for others, GC electronics Radio TV solvent will dissolve that glue (and Sonybond) without ruining the silkscreening on the PC board. The stuff is nasty, but works wonderfully. I use the red straw from the WD40 can and just drip some on there and let it sit for a minute, adding more if needed. it will come right off with no scraping.
Yep, you can tell it’s quality because it says so in big letters. Surprised they didn’t add an exclamation point like they did in their catalog descriptions.
The real issue with that adhesive glue is when the cap leaks electrolyte onto the glue....That's when that glue becomes conductive and corrosive from electrolytic action....
I was looking at a used Realistic STA-95 receiver and it got me curious enough to look on RU-vid for other related Realistic videos. Where did you learn so much about stereo receivers? It's amazing. You know a lot. Congratulations.
Back when I was a kid I just knew one or two people that own those Kind of stereos I didn't know very many people that own them most of the people I know owned Sears and Roebuck stereos all built together and one
Always great to see your videos, I have my Original Yaesu FRG-7 Shortwave receiver here with me. You now have me thinking of recaping this guy. Which brand and series caps do you usually use? All the electrolytic caps are on the IF/ AF board, only 14 of them. I still have the original manual and schematic, they still look brand new.
Hello Tony, can you show sometime your discharging process for these older, bigger receivers before working on them? I noticed you mentioned this before measuring the voltages at the caps.
Are my eyes deceiving me, or is there more hiss in the "yellow" channel on the scope? There certainly seems to be more activity when there's not supposed to be any signal.
I've been watching your videos for a while now and have learned a lot, and have repaired some receivers with success. Thank you for the time you take to make this videos and sharing your knowledge. I do have a question I have the Realistic 2100D which i was able to repair, when i got it it had shorted outputs, i recapped output, and power boards and installed new output transistors. After playing for about 1/2 hour at 1/2 of its capacity it gets hot to the touch. What temperature would be consider normal for this type of receivers? I did adjusted bias to specs.
I HAVE A ,,, STA-2270 - STA-95 - STA-2100 - STA-2100D - STA-2300 - and others ALL REFURBISHED - with higher quality parts , So Powerful , Will make 200w and 300w Speakers blush .Bought them from a Stereo Tech and also a collector . I want to make a video of which sounds better ..her quality parts , So Powerful , Will make 200w and 300w Speakers blush .Bought them from a Stereo Tech and also a collector . I want to make a video of which sounds better .. Paid almost 4000.00 for the 2100-2100D-2300 in total with refurbishing . Love them ..Because of your video i got into this project , :)
I worked for Radio Shack back in '77--'78, and remember this receiver well. It was a slow seller, but nobody ever returned one. Just wondering though, these receivers were... what? $500 new fifty years ago? How much do you charge an hour for the kind of service we see in this video? I haven't priced caps and resistors in a long time, but components alone had to be $40-50.
Another consideration on whether to decide to go through the pre-amp and tone circuits is whether or not this guy's speakers or hearing is good enough to notice the difference. I mean, we are talking Radio Shack stuff here and the guy's got to be at least in his late 50's if he's owned this thing from new.
Err... did you miss the fact I said I considered whether or not either or both the speaker quality and/or his hearing were good enough to discern further work done on the amp? -did I somehow call the amp's quality into question? -seriously? -did you even read my comment?
Jan Verschueren “ I mean we’re talking Radio Shack stuff here”. Your words lol. And I also took it to be a negative against Realistic equipment. I own a 2000D and it sounds as good as my 2238 Marantz through a set of ESM-2’s I listen to in my home office. VERY VERY underrated receiver.
One thing only; When you used the output board pins for your 8-ohm load measurement, since the customer never does that, aren't you ignoring the cable between the board and the terminals in back? I'm sure you thought of that!
It was manufactured by Tandy Electronics. Foster Electric built some receivers for the Shack in this time period, but any model that was 75 wpc and higher was made by Tandy. Fostex is the driver and headphone division of Foster.
i just got a sta 2000 today off ebay works like new but watt meter light is out it has a plate over it...is it hard to remove it??taking the two screw out did not move it ..love your work
Sooo, who made it for RS? My guess, Pioneer, or Kenwood. Hmmm, that output turkey was suspicuous, but the yams and cranberry needed to be removed. The stuffing and gravy had to go. Good job on making the problems disappear. Hope you all had a festive TG. Don
@@markanderson350 Tandy Electronics made this and all of the monster receivers 75 wpc and up. Hitachi last made receivers for Radio Shack no later than 1974.
Do you have any mods to tame the bass and add some treble, the treble control has very little to add to the sound, the bass control at minimum just starts dealing with the boominess.
Tony where do you typically purchase your Caps for replacement. DO you only go to Digikey or Mouser or do you look at other electronics suppliers like allelectronics or parts-express?
Great video. I have this same receiver that my parent's bought back in the early 80's. It has occasional noise, not related to dirty potentiometers in the right channel. It doesn't happen often, but it's more of a brief distorted screech. I haven't powered it on much since it did that. I'm wondering, is it necessary to go through the rebiasing of the amp modules after replacing caps... I'm not sure I totally understand the process.
Just picked up one of these beauties, everything works except for the window lights, none work.. Do you know what is common for these to have no illumination at the frequency band window by chance??
Possible you have the routing for the tuning cord? I have a unit that had one break and would like to repair it since the unit was my dads whom has passed and we've had the thing longer than ive been around (34yrs).
The only thing you got to be really careful when you purchase the stereos off of eBay because you don't know if you're going to get screwed it happened to me I was wanting a big receiver like this I passed on getting one and I stuck with what I got
Hi Tony I see it has been some time since you did this video it is a great one. I would sure like to send you another STA-2000 all expenses on me of course. I just purchased it and would like it repaired right, the "seller stated does not work". I have not plugged it I did open it up and found 3 power resisters on the left on your video 4:18 have been overheated. It has a broken AM antenna but over all in fair and restore able condition from what I see. I do want to add it to my collection please let me know how I can get in contact with you I have more details. Thank you for all your work.
I have the STA-2000D; I found your video from a google search. I was wondering if you had a source to get replacement backlight bulb sockets; I can find online resellers selling replacement bulbs, but not the sockets Mine are (as I recall) are grey, and have become brittle. IF I saw correctly the one time your camera panned past these sockets, this receiver had white plugs. This was a great video by the way.
Try touching base with Dave over at www.dgwojo.com. He has been fantastic in helping me with the bulbs on my 2000D back at the start of the year. He sells mostly bulbs, but if he doesn't have sockets as well, he probably would know what direction to point you in.
My receiver is the (D) variant of the version that is discussed. I have it connected to a pair of Klipsch Herseys and a pair of Realistic three-ways. It has a tendency to shut down at high volume. Shut the power off and turn it back on and it kicks back on. I have often thought it would be a failure of the output transistors although I have no idea. If you have an idea of what is wrong with it, please respond.
I have one that looses a channel, sometimes by flipping one of the switches the dead channel will come back on until it goes out, no rhyme or reason. I would really like to get it fixed. Bought the unit new back in 77
Does anyone know why my left balance cuts out? Lucky so far if I tap around or above the left watt meter it comes back and fires all 4 speakers. However if you shut the unit off? and turn it on later no left balance again? I would appreciate knowing what the issue is ? and cost to repair it? STA 2000 I like mine, I hope it can be fixed
Hi Tony. I have a sta-2100 and the service manual also states to use 8ohm load for setting bias. I dont have a dummy load and wondering if theres anything else I can use or do? Thanks Tony
what kind of diode is that you're going to replace, i'd like to replace the output transistors in my Astro Sonic but think i could do better on price.Any suggestions?
I have a STA-2000D and there is NO glue on that board underneath, nor on the amp boards, nor anywhere else. Go figure. Well, the function indicator lamps were glued into their sockets...
Tony, I have a Realistic STA 111. It sounded like an AM radio in a thunderstorm. I cleaned the pots with Fader and they're perfect, but I'm concerned about the caps. My hands shake too much to solder any more. Also, the relay went out many years ago. If I press it in, it sounds great, I didn't feel like troubleshooting it. I suck a little screw in it, and it's been like that for 20 years! My concern now though, after watching you, is DC voltage on the output. I haven't tested it, but I have some nice speakers and very nice HiFiMan Planar Magnetic Headphones. I would not want to damage the coils. How much would you charge to check it all out? Other than the relay it does work, but I do get some distortion occasionally.
Hi Tony, I have a realistic STA-2000D the wire of the stereo lamp is cut off but I don’t know to connect that so I need a schematic diagram of that ,where I can get the schematic for this receiver?thank you
Probably. You know, many of the Japanese had to start over after WW2. Many made components at first that did not need a ton of R&D. I think Sansui was light bulbs way back. Once you made profits, you rolled it into radios etc. Toyota was originally sewing machines, is another example.
Maybe, but this receiver was made long after WWII, so unless Honda was still in the component business (which they may well have been)...I have just never seen Honda resistors before.
That’s interesting regarding polarised vs non polarised caps. I use polarised caps in my bass guitars as they seem to have depth to the clarity whereas the non polarised give me a twangy sound. And what I mean is that both have the high end but the non polarised dont have the warmth??????
