Very simple jig to make fingerjoints (box joints) of variable thickness with just a single standard blade (i.e. 1/8") in the tablesaw. One of the simplest methods to be found I believe.
There's a lot of videos that describe jigs used with dado blades, and jigs that cut finger joints with a single blade, but this is the most practical setup I've seen that uses a single blade for box joints. Good job.
Watched so many box joint jigs for table saw, this is by far the best, superior than many from woodworking masters --- not only is it simple and easy to make, but also it is capable of varying widths.
I'm impressed. So, I decided to make your jig with a twist.. I incorporated the jig to my mini table saw sled. Thanks fort he video. I downloaded it and will continue to see if I can make minor alterations..
Of all the jigs with gears and threaded bars this one takes the cake. I only have a radial arm saw but I am going to use this device on my home made router table. I will have to devise some backing board to prevent tear out.
I had been thinking of something very similar but had not figured out how I was going to make the nail's position adjustable. Thanks so much for the video and help!
Just come across this video, excellent job Luciano. I rigged mine into the cross cut slay for more stability as the saw mitre slay was not so robust as yours. The slots and holes were cut into the cross cut back plank worked a treat. Also I found the diameter of the pin is very sensitive. A pin the width of the blade kerf is a little too tight whereas a pin the width of the cut slot produces a loose joint. I put a nail into a drill and filed it until it was somewhere in between.
Great job Luciano. As a suggestion, at 6:30, you could put a small piece of wood (like 1/4" hardboard) on the outside of the reference block to keep it flush. One like you have on your sliding block at 2:10. That way you would not have to keep checking the reference block to make sure it's flush.
Hey Luciano, many thank's for your vidéo!!! i've just finish this box joint (yours) and it's a long time i was looking for a kind like this. cause we dont need a double blade or to do a lot of finger , that's realy perfect!!!!! Than you Merry Xmas hihihi
That's a smart idea, however, I would really like to see how it fits with the current cuts you just made with this jig. Did no one see when he checked for fit he used the finger joints that were already on the top of the board.
Thanks - very clear. Using a router to trim the fingers is really going to work for me! Wonder if you have thoughts on how to prevent the blade from dropping as you mention at the end of the video.
Hi Mike. To prevent the blade from dropping, I lock the blade height handle bar to a fixed point in the tablesaw. You need to select a suitable point in your tablesaw. I use a wood stick that is pivoted at the end fixed to the tablesaw. At the other end, the stick has a groove to adjust for the position of the handle bar. At both ends the pivots are bolts tightened with wing nuts so that the handle bar cannot move once locked into position. It works very well for me. Unfortunately, I cannot add a picture to my answer which would be very helpful I guess,. Nonetheles, hope this helps you.
Yes, that gives me an idea. My saw uses a small wheel with a crank to adjust the blade height, and the blade does move down due to vibration. I think I can adapt your idea to clamp the crank wheel into position. Thanks again!
it will be good to have plans of the jig you made or a list of materials and measurments. Would you share with us about making the jig, please because I thinh is a very good one. Thanks I would like to see your answer. Tony from Mexico
+Jorge Jimenez Hola Jorge, Lamentablemente no tengo planos. Trataré de hacer un bosquejo para poder entregar medidas. Puede que me demore un poco ya que estoy con hartas cosas en estos momentos. En cuanto lo tenga te daré aviso por este mismo medio y lo subiré a algún sitio para que lo puedas bajar. En este proyecto me concentré en hacer funcionar el dispositivo en mi propia sierra de banco, que es una de bajo costo y las guías no son estándar, por eso traté de explicar en el video el concepto principalmente. Saludos!
Gracias por contestar. Ya hice el "jig pero no logro utilizarlo eficientemente tal vez algo hice mal por esa razón me gustaría checar en que fallé- Gracias otra vez y que tengas otro año lleno de exitos
Its a bit hard to follow because of the sound quality or perhaps its the accent, but this looks like a very easy to make design and I'll likely try this after I get some sleep so I can focus a bit more.
The nail must be positioned close enough to the border of moving block to allow for the thinnest finger you want to make. For example if you want to make a 3 mm finger, the nail must leave a gap of 3 mm between the border anf the nail itself. Hope this makes sense to you.
Gilbert Dufour hi, can I add after having tried nail the size of the slot and a nail the size of the kerf of the blade my findings are that a nail the size of the slot is a little loose whereas a nail the size of the blade kerf is a little too tight. I guess it has to be a little bigger than the blade kerf and less than the slot for optimum results. it seems to be very important to get the nail dia right. I placed the nail in a drill chuck spun it on a file until it was right.
