Thanks for the highlighted summary of this. This video is PERFECT for someone who is familiar with working on their car, but not necessarily familiar with the Mini Cooper. Thanks again!!!
Did the break pads and rotor, following your video and all great. rewinding the piston back was a bit of a effort, but did it. Only problem is the red light on dashboard didn't show off... Question: can be the sensor bad mounted or do I need to reset something? I have done the rear pads... Is it possible front ones are needing replacement as well? Is it common front and back switch on at same time? Thanks for your support.!
For Minis (which are notoriously difficult to find service information online for), it would be helpful if you'd specify what precisely the 'factory torque specifications' are at each point mentioned. Also, can you explain why it is that the brake pad sensor wire needs to be replaced at each install of the pads? cheers!
You really don't need them, people just get really mad at me for torque specs. Even though they don't own torque wrenches. Just tight is good. Because the sensor can become worn out and read improperly. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I've changed the brakes on many cars and have to change the brakes on my father's Mini. (The rear rotors are wearing away and making a horrible noise.) One question, how do you bleed the brakes? And do you have to open the master cylinder while pressing in on the caliper? (Sometimes videos forget to show this step!) Thanks!
Just done this this afternoon, brake caliper removal is not required, rotor comes off without needing to remove it, just the brake pads. Torx 50 nut is a bitch without an impact driver!
Great video. Is it really necessary to remove the Calliper bracket if you remove the Calliper assembly? What is the process for getting the warning light to go out? (cooper S 2010) Thanks.
Not necessary to remove the caliper bracket and you would probably need a new brake wear sensor if your brake warning light is still on after you replaced your brakes.. brake wear sensor could have been damaged.
This kills the slide boot. Make sure to hold the nut on the slide (next to the boot) while you are unscrewing the caliper from the caliper bracket if you don't want to wreck them (this was done after the bolt was broken loose, but the boot was already gummed up). Good video other than that though.
Just buying 06 mini from a friend. Needs rear pads an rotter. The lug nut cover has no screw driver slot, but has a lot of little holes. Do I have to make a hook tool? And does it just pull off? I can't find the jack? Batteries in the back, I don't know where the spear is. I might have to buy spear in a bag from a web sit. I'll have to check if it has run flats on it. Thanks you if you for a reply
if it is like the fronts then yes, basically the inner brake pad has a spot that it hooks onto. Taking the Caliper off with the sensor still attached to the pad and just having the sensor disconnected from the connector at the White Tube end means you can slide the whole thing through the Caliper. Also doing the same in reverse when installing the new sensor onto the new pad, you can get it to clip onto the pad firmly and then feed the line through the Caliper and it stays attached nicely.
redenergy legaspi No the engine does not have to be on to do that step. And is probably safer the engine is off just encase it could go into gear without brake pressure. Please subscribe if you have not already.
Hi, when I used the compresion tool, the rubber boot on the piston twisted. Is this normal? What if I remove the rubber boot or if it got broken during the process?
Bricolage Mexicano Yes the boot rotating while using the compression tool is normal. Sorry it is a little bit difficult to see at 5:54 next time we will do a little bit better filming. That tools is awkward to use. If the dust boot is worn needing to replace I would do so to insure the the life of the braking system.
If the bolts are tight they will not come loose, the pads have anti squeak shims built in and the OBC was fine so no need to reset. thanks for the comment though.
Those were my observations as well and I appreciate your reply. I also wondered about lubrication of the slider pins and if you need to open the brake fluid resivior cap before you compress the caliper. Thanks for the great video.
The rear brake piston needs to be rotated, so that trick doesn’t work. Buy needle nose pliers can do it in a pinch. The tool is definitely the way to go. Get one at harbor freight.
It IS a pity that there was no mention of dielectric grease to protect against corrosion from water/salt etc. for the brake sensor connector under the car. Also there was no mention of torque specs. for the lug bolts, this is important to avoid over tightening these bolts that could lead to a warped brake rotor. The video DID give a rudimentary knowledge of how to change the parts and rotors though.
