REAR WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT FORD C-MAX ESCAPE

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REAR WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT FORD C-MAX ESCAPE
If you have Ford C-MAX or Ford Escape and you need to replace rear wheel bearing we will explain that in this video. We demonstrated how to replace rear wheel bearing on 2013 Ford C-MAX but this video may be helpful on Ford C-Max Hybrid and Ford Escape as well for the following years:
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Ford C-Max Hybrid Energi Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Removal Location
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Ford Escape Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Removal Location
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Опубликовано:

8 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 27

@garbagepicker Год назад

The wheel bearing bolts are E14 "I got a kit at harbor freight with it for $9.99", And the Hub assembly I purchased on Amazon for MOOG $112 each with tax, and for the other beginners like me taking it apart is hard, putting it back together was not as hard. just take your time! And Thank you auto repair guys ! Good video like always.

@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Год назад

Thank you dude for information. Definitely I will buy same

@billyhellmaker Год назад

This was a TOUGH job! I did not heat the bolts or use an impact tool. You do want to use some Desolve or WD40 on the ends of those bolts. I'm halfway done. I could not have done it without this video so BIG THANK!!! Torque specs (from below) - Hub is 81 lb.ft (110 Nm), caliper 52 lb.ft (70 Nm)

@billyhellmaker Год назад

After doing one side there are some things you should know. Getting those bolts off with just a ratchet will take forever due to very little space and the blue thread locker on the bolts. My mechanic said it was fine to use an air ratchet. I used that to put them back on and instead of an hour it took minutes. I will use the air ratchet to remove other side. ALSO - the old piece will not just fall out like in the video. There will be rust and grime holding that thing on in a very firm manner. I didn't think I could get off and that's when I called my friend that is a mechanic. He took my little sledge hammer (not a big one) and hit the old piece from behind one side and then the other. I tried this but evidently I didn't it it hard enough. He whacked it twice and it came off. I used a wire wheel on my electric drill to clean the old surfaces and in the hole before I put the new unit on. Getting everything back together was so much easier. My second piece is arriving today and I'm hoping this side goes much fast than the other. These are things I wish someone would have told me ahead of time - good luck, you can do it!

@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Год назад

Thank you dude. I found it need to replace a rear bearing of 2013 C-max. I hope I can do my self. But I never see a bolts like those keeping a part of bearings. What is that size of a socket?

@billyhellmaker Год назад

@@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Reverse torque size 14. I had to go buy it. UPDATE do not loosen these with an air ratchet. Use a long ratchet to initially loosen them like in the video. ALSO I used a torch from the outside to heat up the bolts and they came out much easier. After I did the second one the car was quiet and my wife was very, very happy. This car only has 58,000 miles so it can happen that soon. Good luck - you can do it! PS I used the MOOG part.

@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Год назад

@@billyhellmaker Thank you. My 2013 Ford C-Max has 102000 miles. So a noise got like 80,000 but I did not understand. Now I got it.

@LBIChris Год назад

3 Things I found to make this easier, 1 Heat the Bolt tips to melt the Threadlocker, 2 Use an Impact if you can, 3 Remove the Shock Absorber, it took me 2 minutes and it's majorly in the way of those hub bolts. Also if you live in the rust belt like me, that hub ain't gonna fall out like that, I had to pop the wheel studs out and use the Bolt and Nut trick to press it out it was rusted in so badly.

@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Год назад

Thank you guys. I need to do same service on my 2013 Ford C-Max

@DEXTERURMANREPPINVOC Год назад

I'm struggling getting the four bolts out at the back, they get tighter the more I loosen them. I sprayed them with wd40 also I brushed them with wire brush to remove some of the dirt in the threads but still no joy

@Subjohny 2 года назад

bolt is much easier to remove when blow torch flame applied on the tip while removing. It stuck not because of rust but because of hardened threadlocker! When heat applied threadlocker melt down and allow you unscrew very easy

@thebearak 2 года назад

I ended up heating up the hub to get the bolts out. Big difference between heat and no heat on how hard it was.

@rubberduckyconvoy2723 Год назад

Thanks dude I collect all suggest I will do it my self too

@thebearak 2 года назад

Just a note, there are aftermarket replacements. NAPA and O'reilly's had them here. NAPA wanted $230, O'Reilly's wanted $166. My Ford dealership quoted me $260 and at least 2 month wait.

@fireball0424 2 года назад

Great video! What are the torque specifations for the hub assembly and caliper bracket?

@kristinas998 Год назад

Hub is 81 lb.ft (110 Nm), caliper 52 lb.ft (70 Nm)

@malcolmbarker4862 2 года назад

I think i would remove back spring for better access

@solomo_onn 2 года назад

Please shoot the video on changing the LED headlights on 14/15Elantra 🙏🙏🙏🙏

@markduncan6380 Год назад

is it the same part for discs and drums

@JohnBoyKrenshaw Год назад

Thanks

@bilalb7066 2 года назад

good

@ahotdj07 2 года назад

@15:00 could you not use an impact gun to remove the bolts?

@billyhellmaker Год назад

I was very tempted to get my impact gun out but was afraid of breaking a bolt. It was tough with just my socket (BIG) wrench.

@mikivojinov6381 2 года назад

Just lift the car and make your life easier, theres no need to remove the springs just 1 long extenion and breaker bar. On older models there are 4 bolts torx50, on this model basicly the same just reverse torx bolts

@thebearak 2 года назад

Specifically, the E14 star socket.

@apostolllos 2 года назад

why didn't yall just remove the brake cable wouldnt it be easier?

@thebearak 2 года назад

Not really. But you can take the cable holders off the frame and it gives you more room to move the brakes around with. If you take off the "cable", one is a hydraulic line, so you'd end up bleeding the brakes again. Not worth IMHO.