I'm still learning this discipline, however, though my ignorance, I can recognize the great amount of attention and meticulousness put into the job. Congratulations! Yes, actually I would like to ask some questions: 1) what if the board has twist or bow? can you suggest a strategy to straighten it before soldering back the chip? 2) you said that the cooling system of that motherboard is inefficient: which temperatures cause the joints to fail over time? can you tell which laptop is? (Maybe it is a Compaq Presario or something similar, because I recognize the board, I have this model, and suffered of bad cooling system, improved by making the heatsink contact on the CPU. And I needed to isolate the capacitors surrounding the die with thermal pads, because the contact with the heatsink caused a shorted CPU)
Can I ask you something about laptop, so I have a HP Pavilion gaming 15 with I7 9750H with GTX 1650, 1 month ago when I want to turn on my laptop it won't turn on, all of the indicator lights are on like battery indicator LEd lights, power button lights. All of them turned on, but my screen don't want to turned on, even the fan didn't want to turn on too, after that I go to the Service Center and they said I have to change the motherboard because they said that either my CPU/GPU chip broke or the ic, they said it happen because of overheating. So is there any chance my laptop be fixed and worked again? Sorry if my English bad, but I really need your help bout this😢
it is going to fail again , the problem not with the solder joints it is in the chip itself , so re-flow and rebelling both are not a reliable solution
Merhaba ben bga IR 6600 modeli kullanıyorum.Ekran kartı ve laptop anakartı tamiri yapıyorum çok başarılı bir bga makinesi tavsiye ederim her marka model çipleri rahatlıkla sökerek takabiliryorum.
Nice work, but one question, why would you need to remove the flux from under the chip using IPA? What's the risk or danger of leaving it there? Most BGA issue are dry joints so if you had flux residue remaining under the chip it will help the joints not dry out I would assume?
@Nik Telio That[s a flip-chip, bro..Reballing doesn't work with flip-chips - you have to replace whole chip, because this failure is caused by soldder boalls directly under the silicon die... You can heat it up to 120 degree C. If it will work, chip needs to be replaced for sure. Reaballing is only a temporary solution, so it will fail soon or later... Usuially it lasts max. 6 months and fails again... Even Louis Rossmann made a video about that and it said that it doesn't work that way with flip-chips... It may help with singls bga chips like Vran,/SIO aka keyboard controlers.
i reflowed my first gpu yesterday. before the reflow the board beeped "gpu problem" - after the reflow i got picture, install and run win10. on first glance, graphics good, hardware manager reports ok. yet i cannot install the newest graphics driver else than whql.. detects no compatible hardware, and directX test (userbenchmark) fails, i suppose the chip is faulty. thanks for the video!
What is the exact model on the bottom Heater? and we're can I find it? Is there any chance u can make video tutorial on how to make on these genious machines
Hello, watch this video and in the description you will find a link with the parts i used to build it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yOoBdcpfc5U.html
Hi thanks again for replying but the parts of list is not complete for example it doesn't say the model of the bottom Heater u're using and as well the top one
Hello, the laptop powers up but the screen remains black, usually this problem is caused by overheating, reballing or replacing the chip is the only solution, i used 0.5mm leaded solder balls, some flux and desoldering braid
but my question remains, how do you source your stencils? i am now in the proces of building such a machine and i want to firt try it out on an old graphics car for which i found a stencil. but i also have an old laptop with prosumably a bad pch bud i wouldn't now where to get the stencil. any searching tips?
both heaters are connected on the PID controller and according the temperature profile it controls the heaters, it uses K-type thermocouple to measure the temperature, i'm also using a power regulator for the to panel
yes but without a thermostat or some kind of controller if you leave the panels working they will get very hot even glow red, high power panels need some kind of controller, low power panels you can leave them working for hours without problem
Hello, the tip i'm using is this one www.ebay.de/itm/SOLDERING-IRON-STATION-Tip-T12-1403-FOR-HAKKO-FM-203-FM-204-FM-206-FX-950-FX-951/261541688936?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hello, watch this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W5HECI1L3dg.html and in the description you will find a list with the parts to build it
what number the air level for that 260°C heat, and what is the name of that solder tips for removing the old solder balls because i cant find it here in my local store
i mean when you applying a new solder balls with the stencil you turn on the solder station to 260°C, and what about the air level of the solder station, what number on air level you are using?
are you serious??? i get on other channel it must be set to the lowest level, mine is 1 to 8, so i set it to 1 air control and 300°C temp control heat and the result is my stencil bending or flexing, you remember right the first time i asked about that, thank you Nik i will try that, thank you so much 👍
it did not succeed Nik, my rework station is Quick 857D, i tried using 260°C and air level 8 (max), my stencil still flexing (ps3 rsx & cell be direct heat stencil) just the same result with lowest air flow.i dont know what caused it, maybe the stencil were too thin, i dont have any idea of it
i'm using Warton Metals Future HF SMT Rework Jelly, cost about 20euros 10g, in the past i used Chinese Kingbo flux...did a good job and very cheap but not easy to clean :/
kapton tape does not protect from heat well, you can use aluminium tape instead, sometimes i do use tape to protect other components like nearby bga chips or vrams but most of the time i don't, i never had any issues :/
Unfortunately the repair has failed (the last portion of movie with the main board function is fake, you copy it), but I appreciate the work you put in it, and I like your rebelling station, I know that you put a lot of effort in it, even if the end result is bad, and for sure you end up disappointed after a lot of effort invested, sometime things in life does not go as we want (the chip was probably bad). I will give a like to the video, it worth it, the work done is really good, Thanks for posting it, for people like me that has never done such a thing, ...
