I just fully stripped a points distributor managed to get all the parts even the grease well cap so i could replace the 60 year old stuff that was in there
🍁Hey Jay. Good video. I upgrade the motor in my 54 Fargo to an 8 cylinder, but my 40 Buick is all original. I try to reuse all the parts on the cars. Why spend more money? Great video. Thanks for sharing. 🍁👍👍
Good video for some that aren't familiar with points distributor, definitely not for those with OCD. I'm a little OCD and would suggest that since you already have the distributor torn that far down, to go ahead and drive out the gear drive pin to inspect the drive shaft/other parts, but MOSTLY to be able to clean out the 50 or more years of dried, dust/grit embedded gunk that you'll find inside. Would make for a longer lasting, smoother operating distributor. Like you, I like the points on some of my projects, HEI on others. I like the way you show the little glitches we encounter in our work, that's the real world we encounter, not a pre-done work, edited, everything"falls perfectly into place" video. Keep going, we need info on the old school stuff or the younger gear heads won't know anymore about it than they do about a dial telephone.
I share your sentiments on the spray paint. I've tried all kinds of stuff to prolong shelf like, including storing the cans upside down. May as well use it all up when you first spray it! I've noticed the new cans no longer instruct one to hold the can upside down and spray until clear, I read this after spraying them upside down and never having them go clear. I wonder if the feed arrangement has changed...
Note that if your points are wearing great then DO NOT change the condenser. Another condenser can wear out points quicker. I’ve been using points since 1973 on my 1968 Z/28.
You would have liked working at the Phone Company Jay, if they had a spool of wire that got tangled up in the back of a truck, and the time to untangle it was more than the roll was worth, they would ditch the whole roll of wire in the skip! That applies to many things over the years, actually I think I still have a few relics left in the back shed!
I bought a NOS Accel points dizzy , the one with the nice big HEI cap to lessen the Corona effect (no, not THAT corona!) of arcing between terminals for an upcoming project.. You should get one of the adjustable vacuum advance units, they really make setting your total timing a breeze
After getting left stranded on the side of the road twice in as many years due to a failed HEI ignition module, I switched back to my trusty Accel dual point distributor. Didn't appreciate my mint condition '66 Chevelle SS getting towed.
I really like point style distributors there easy to work on i dont care for them big oversized hei i do have a protronics unit in my 67 impala but point style in my 69 c10
Never have a module go out. I like the HEI because the coils are 40,000 volts vs 20,000 for the points. The points start to deteriorate right from the get go.
You really need to change the end on the points wire. You want one that is crimped on the side like the gold factory one. If your points are wearing perfecty, DO NOT replace the condenser bc some will make the points wear terribly.
I've got an older 71 olds boat engine 455 that I was inspecting the points and lo and behold there is a magnetic pick up in there. I bought this engine to install in my car. So I think it's an oddball. And if it's good I plan to run a MSD with it 👍
Wish you would have made a video of wiring the distributor to run the engine. I have an 86 square body that the HEI is giving me nothing but trouble. I am going to install a points distributor this weekend and do away with the HEI once and for all.
Excellent video! Clear, well demonstrated and straight to the point. Very informative. After a dozen point’s distributor videos, this one laid it out so that I can understand it, visually see it, and feel confident to do it on my own. THANK YOU!
Really like your videos! I wanted to stay points with my 66 C10, but all the points I found (even the high dollar premium brands) are made in China garbage. Kept having issues in a brand new AC Delco points distributor, finally threw in the towel and installed an HEI. Where did you source your point set from?
The set I put in was US made old stock that I had on the shelf. However I also bought a new Standard blue streak set to put back on the shelf. It is made in Mexico but is constructed out of good thick copper and seems to be very good quality. Part number DR2270P. Thanks for watching.
To me the biggest disadvantage of the HEI is its diameter, which causes trouble with hot rod intakes. Its biggest advantage is the easily replaceable parts. If you truly don't trust the module, buy a spare. That said, I found your video looking for how to properly rebuild a points distributor, which, like you said, doesn't scare me. I even still have a dwell meter. And a points distributor is the one part I try to keep around, because if we ever get EMP'd, it will still work. And just in passing, no matter where you go to buy a rebuilt unit, it will almost surely be a Cardone unit.
Set at 32 degrees dwell. That lead wire should have the same 45 degree end as the condenser. There are different value condensers, OVER and UNDER capacity. Otherwise it could rub against the rotating assembly. There also high performance, CORVETTE, different INCHES of vacuum, and STANDARD for BIG Chevy's or TWO BBL. and adjustable vacuum advance units, for better tuning, and quicker, timing. And quality points from ACCELL. But still an electronic conversion is far superior to those PRIMITAVE points. POINTS SUCK!!
Ahhhh...the memories of points distributor rebuilding! At 69 years old and after owning approximately 150 vehicles since my 1957 Chevy Bel Air 2-dr Hardtop purchased for $500.00 in 1968 with 283ci engine, Power Pack heads, power steering, padded dash, Wonder Bar radio and electric rear antenna, I have yet another car with a factory points distributor. A 1974 Corvette coupe with the factory 454ci engine. All original, unmolested and only 91,000 miles on the odometer. The last of the Big Block Corvettes and the last production year WITHOUT catalytic converters. Your video was very helpful in reacquainting me with how to rebuild a GM points-style distributor. Thank you!
Cool video. Now I know what to expect when I start messing with my Chevy dist. I noticed when you where checking the condenser you where touching both probes with your fingers. You body is a capacitor. So your readings will be off because of that. That is likely why you where getting changing readings. Same when checking resistance. To get valid readings you have to remove yourself from the circuit :)
The inherent flaw (known since the 1930's) of points type distributors is at high rpms the voltage drops off creating all kinds of mis-fires. Not much of an issue and perfectly fine for grocery getters. The other issue of putting them into a post 1974 Chevs is you must rewire to reduce the voltage at run to 7.5v or the points and condenser will not last very long. HEI runs on 14 volts and for pre 1974 you have wire them at run accordingly. Since not original to your 327, it might be a good idea to get a spring kit for yours and maybe even an adjustable vacuum can. GM was always messing around with distributor curves and total timing so there could be a lot of improvement found in tinkering.
@@mikethompson2007 lol, like I said that was as far as I wanted to go. Would it be a good idea to do so, yes but I seriously doubt I can find the seal or the grease. I suppose a guy could make them both himself...sigh, you just had to bring it up and now it's gonna bug me.
@@TheJayhawker The grease is a mystery... I've contacted 4-5 distributor rebuilders and gotten 4 different answers. They will say valvoline, bel -ray or superlube without specifying which one!?!? And corvette central sells the new top seal for $6.10 if you are inclined to tear it down again....
I hate to dis someone's video because I know what is involved but you surimi are all wet. How many hundreds of thousands of miles did you drive1965 and older chevies with points. Must have one or two miles. With points you were many times running raged by 20,000 miles and need a new gap set. I have probably driven millions on chevies since the 70's. Did have ti replace one module my 1967 camaro was converted in 1989 to Malory Hall effect module with no problems since. It is a daily driver. I have watched a lot of your videos because of the 1948 Chevy and 327 rebuild and have found you mislead in most everything you say. If people follow your lead they will make the same mistakes that most of us have made over the decades. Please know what you are telling people first.
I'm not recommending anyone does anything I do, I'm bringing those who want to come along to join me as I work on MY projects. How many millions of cars used points before the mid 70's? It's not a big deal. I'm willing to use them on my projects so why do you have a problem with it?
I don’t really understand what Mr. Switzer is trying to say? I like running points in my old car. It’s been driven 40,000 miles since April 2020. I’ve had a few points issues, but I like wrenching.
@@Monaco-BuilditFixitDriveitEver Just one of the masses that like the thought of old cars, but don't want to experience old cars. What can ya do? Thanks for watching and commenting.
