REBUILDING A BARN FIND 1991 HONDA CR125 | PT6 

Just Boss...I mean your trials and tribs are all part of the learning curve.....for alot of us 😉

Bit of a tip, when you get a steel screw in an alloy fitting, try using some heat. The rate of expansion of the alloy is greater than the steel, thus allowing the alloy to expand and may help with the removal.

Well done. I prefer the honesty and humbleness, rather than the usual format. Best one in a while.

Ahh brings back memories I had an RM 125 back in the day.

Persevere and never be worried about having to use others to fix things,just keep plugging away great videos.

FYI you can pull that rear shock apart to service it, but you would need nitrogen to pressurise the chamber again. You could also replace the rubber cushion bung

Rye, just want to say that you're top man 🏆 thanks for all your hard work and for sharing this journey with us 🏍

You might want to add a pair of fibre and/or aluminium jaws for your vice so you don't mark softer items.

Honda ... great stuff, you're doing great.

I’m enjoying your videos, so thanks. Great watching you learn and seeing your enthusiasm for the builds. Keep em coming please 👍👍

if people haven't already suggested it get some soft Jaws for The Vice

Fork seal driver is a great bit of kit. Have another look at how you were using it. Looking good though well done.

If you use your old fork seals backwards with a curved piece of metal sheet or your plastic plumb fitting sitting in the underside in the recess, works wonders.

Just to add my 2 bob's worth here, regarding any bolts or nuts that are seized or just very hard to remove......"USE HEAT", it is your friend.

Great job mate. Broken a few taps in holes in my time...its a bummer. Keep doing what your doing!

A small butane torch (as used by chefs for creme brulee browning), available on ebay for less than a tenner, is a useful ally when confronted by seized bolts particularly those steel bolts into aluminium castings. The heat will often break the galvanic corrosion or nullify over ambitious use of thread lock. If the bolt has a socket cap head and it rounds off internally, if you have access to a Mig welder a sacrificial allen key can be welded into the head (if there is clear access) and the heat of the welding often works to loosen the grip of the casting on the bolt.

I really like your videos, thanks for taking the time. The challenges you run into are oh too familiar. As for quality bench drills not costing an arm and a leg, I'll heartily recommend the Bosch PBD 40.

Don't give up, keep at it

Just a quick tip, heat is your next best friend. Get yourself a heat gun and a good blowtorch . Heating things up like aluminium expands quickly than steel making it easy to remove bolts etc . Put the calliper in an oven for a hour . That rounded bolt bang a spline bit into it and remove it . Even good for removing stuck calliper pistons , straight out off oven . Ps don’t burn yourself 😢

That vice table wobbling would drive me nuts dude 😆 If you’re having fun that’s the main thing 👍🏻

At the least, a cheap mig welder is a must for any workshop! Maybe not much help on the master cylinder but can weld a nut onto snapped off bolts/studs and the just impact em off

Nice work buddy 👍🏼

Rusty rounded/ snapped bolts is common occurrence in any workshop… 😅 you learn over time so just keep cracking on like you are mate 👍 Never had any success with stud extractors myself, once drilled I would have then ran a thread tap through it (every situation various though) Thanks for the shout out, glad the crows feet helped 😎

Nothing wrong with that fork seal driver mate, used mine a few times now. Adjust the driving portions and get it the right way round (you had it right the first time) and just give it a bit of welly. It's not the best on the market but it's better than you made it look! 😂. Enjoying your vids.

The fork seal tool should be fin end to the seal fat to tool 👍

I have just finished rebuilding a 1990 cr 125 , it just takes time. Lucky I have a mechanical background and found way to overcome problems but it wasn’t easy. My front brake leaver threaded hole was damaged. I ordered a aftermarket one for £20 but then the hose didn’t fit so had to order a new hose. perseverance is the key and you will have a great bike at the end of it 👍🏻

For fork seal driver I used 50 mm pvc plumbing pipe, cut into 2 c. 120 mm lengths, and then sliced out about a 10mm slot. Then put one over the other with slots offset, and fasten it to the slider with a hose clamp. You can stagger inner and outer for best impact point.

For potentially stuck screws, as well as heat, I have found using an impact driver a really useful bit of kit. The shock from the hammer blow, coupled with the first forceful twist, is item enough to break the corrosion that might have built up. I lasts apply a good dose of penetrating fluid beforehand.

Never ever use a broken stud extractor with an electric drill or impact gun. You get much more 'feel' of what its doing (or about to do!) by using hand tools.

Hi your doing well hang in there if you buy urself a small gas heating torch (sealey do a small one ) it’s useful for heating stubborn bolts to aid extraction Also when you drill a hole in a sheared off bolt tap the easy out in with a hammer and try to turn it by hand not with a drill That way get a better feel for how far to take it especially with small easy outs

I once used the nozzle from an old ibc cut the bent bit off,so it was straight and used a mallet to drive seal into fork.

Your video's are worth it. 👍

keep going, you are already more experienced than you were when you started.

Hey mate, the rear shock is rebuildable. Have a look at shock rebuild videos on youtube. I suggest you at a minimum replace the seals and fluid in it, otherwise it will just be a pogo stick. Also 125s are valved for very light riders, being a big strong lad like yourself you may want to consider a revalve and stiffer spring. Stock 125s are generally sprung for 70 to 80kg riders. Cheers

Impact screwdriver and blow torch for stuck bolts

Great work! But PLEASE get some soft jaws for that vice (they just slip over the jaws you already have)..... watching you hold relatively soft ally parts in those metal-scrunching serrated steel manglers is frightening!!!! :) ...and personally, I won't ever touch Ezi-outs (stud extractors) for exactly the reason that you have found - they have NEVER worked for me either!

"I gave the workshop manual a good read"..............good man 😉 As for the bolts etc breaking,that's the way it is when working on neglected stuff whether you're a novice or a pro. One of my mates in trade's biggest headaches is customers complaining about their bill when half of his labour is faffing around with corroded bolts and screws. A lot of bike shops won't work on older stuff for exactly that reason.

Nice one Fella 👍 Keep at it mate, you are definitely heading in the right direction, having the right tools for the job will certainly help with a project 👍 Keep up the great work 👍

More patience than me fella, im sure the finished bike will make it all worthwhile 😂

Man you're doing awesome, walking away and coming back when not in the mood. Impact screwdriver, they cheap as. Start to feel the tension that'll snap the bolts hit with penetrative for longer have a go, little hammer action on your tool to create a shock can help but if same tension get a 🔥 on it heat it up. They got those hand held blower torches. Personally I'd replace any screw flat or Phillips with a hex alternative where practical.

Get yourself an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer). Perfect for loosening those stubborn screws! Also, as previously mentioned, fire is your friend. And as for the seal driver, multiple layers of electrical tape around the stanchion is a neat trick for driving the seal in squarely. Use the stanchion as a sliding hammer, same technique as for disassembling the fork legs. Keep at it though, your skills have improved vastly in a short period of time! Well done!

Cleaning the rear shock is all well and good but it really needs servicing as I expect the oil will be porridge.... Judging by the state of the bike...

I once put the seals in with a screwdriver an scratched some aluminium but was lucky I did it at 16 years old with out the Internet video, back in 98 , on a KMX 200 , I had to rebuild the forks , I needed a special tool to get the bolt out at the bottom, I got one made was just a nut on a rod , I used PJ1 fork oil ,

Haven't watched it all yet but that pipe cut will do the job,did on my forks 💪👍

Heat m8 on seized screws and cobalt drill bits for the hard stuff. Nice job though. Cheers

Thanks

Even the best of mechanics snap screws and bolts it’s just try and use penetrating fluid or heat when trying to take old bolts out keep up the good work 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻

One thing i discovered with front fork seals is always use genuine, aftermarket they only last about a year

Either heat…OR I’ve found soaking the whole brake caliper in a bowl of Diesel for a couple of days frees everything up

add left handed drill bits to your shopping list

Those fork seal drivers do work on many forks (I have one, but you are right on the edge of what that one will cope with (think the CR125 has 45mm forks, and most versions that driver copes with 45mm max). For the front caliper, get some good quality allen key bits (and don't use ball end allen when they are that stuck!). Surprised the ball end one didn't break. Plus you are spending a lot of effort into twisting such a long allen key bit. If you need to drill out hardened steel, use some quality cobalt drills, drill slowly and keep the bit cool .

an Induction heating coil , i just bought 1 last year as home user its great only heats ferrous

Heat mate and lots of it.

Great video bud get a blow touch

Also drill press and compressor both good. 2nd hand industrial belt drive drill press is very good cf new Chinese one.

You need a posidrive bud. Way easier to remove stubborn screws.

I can't believe the size of the forks and shock for a 125!!

Send the shock of to be properly serviced.

As others have said, get a gas blow lamp. That screw would have come out easy.

Brutal

You can service and rebuild those shocks and parts are available for them. They're serviced the same way as any other MX bike shock. Whoever told you they can't be rebuilt is talking through their hat

These builds must be costing you a fortune. I hope you're getting a good return on your investment.

👍

🏍👍👍👍

Used those fork seal drivers loads of times, you either don’t know how to use it or you have the wrong size

I really do think you need to get that shock serviced fully. You’ve no idea whats going on in the oil/ gas section.

The summer months are June, July and August, autumn months are September, October and November, winter months are December, January and February and spring months are March, April and May. Therefore the day you rode the bike was not officially a summer’s day.

Heat things up before trying to remove rusty steel from aluminium!!!!

Need to invest in a heat gun and a impact driver.

You're using the fork seal driver incorrectly, fork should have been inverted as if it was on the bike

Get an impact driver

motor x bikes are usually a money pit

18:01 take the whole bike to a specialist 😂 You’ll have to replace those fork seals as you butchered them on, the rear shock will shed the clear coat and rot quicker than you ruined those calipers. Seriously dude, slow down and ask someone that knows what they are doing for help

Will you next be paraphrasing the bible after your videos? Don’t use a drill the remove a broken screw/socket head with the extractor bits. Use a tapping handle that has an adjustable chuck. That way, you’re using hand torque, not a drill uncontrolled starting torque😎

The butcher strikes again