No such thing as too much detail when talking about engines! 👍 Please dont ruin this channel like motortrend did theirs! This is quickly becoming the best automotive YT channel.
You guys are awesome. You explain things in detail and the correct way of putting things back in place. For someone like me that hasn’t worked on engines in a long time it gives me confidence to do it myself. Other videos show what they did but not how they did it. You show the entire process. Awesome. Mike
You two guys are impressive engine rebuilders. The experience and attention to details is awesome. Makes me want to send my 1970 GMC C2500 to you. It's 50 yo this month and I've had it for 44. It was built at the Fremont, CA plant. The original owner ordered it with a 396 and a turbo 400 trans. Over the years I've had the engine rebuilt to a 402 and just had the trans rebuilt. Wish I could get the engine updated with more hp. It's pretty much stock and so is the rest of the truck.
Another great build. Biggest reason I love this series vs. most other shows is the fact you don't toss a ton of high dollar aftermarket goodies in what you build!
This video and similar, is a great tool fro learning to build. Not many others are this in depth. Thanks for posting this. I cannot do this but it is valuable for emergencies. That Skid mark only on the right made me think of the old style Posi traction
Roller lifters allow engines to use heavier valve springs to close the valves quicker which means they can stay open longer to get more A/F mixture into the chamber. The downside is that heavier springs are harder on the valves and tend to wear out sooner so they have to be changed more often.
Ben & Davin, I’ve enjoyed watching both of you guys work. I love seeing Davin wrenching and I also enjoy seeing behind the scenes of Ben’s camera work and time-lapse set-ups. Keep up the great work!
I enjoyed the whole video Thanks, guys! Please rebuild a 302HO I would love to see that video. I did own 1983 Mustang 302/5.0L HO LX T-5 tranny, I changed the carburetor to a Carter 650cfm, installed Niehoff Racing wire set, Bosh Platinum quad 4 spark plugs, Gold series cap & rotor, MSD Ignition coil, used Quaker State High Mileage 10-40 oil, replaced the intake gaskets, water pump, Front & Rear seal (didn't have to but did it anyway) Energizer 850 cold-cranking amp Battery, after that @ idle it just purred I know I gained HP I noticed it from before, I didn't like the stock Holley 4180C, diaphragm kept leaking fuel. I wish I still owned it but the A-Frame started rusting too much didn't notice it until I had to have a FULL insurance inspection. My ultimate wish is to rebuild a 302/5.0L HO.
Great video, I really appreciate the detailed commentary that goes with each build. Any chance you would consider a Redline rebuild of a modern Japanese motor? Please keep them coming!
Awesome videos! This is my first comment ever on a youtube channel. You guys deserve credit where credits due for the amount of patience it takes to make these videos. Also if you end up finding a camaro z28 302 V-8 i wouldnt mind watching that video 👍
Great great video! I, too, am building a 396 for my dodge durango. Yea, die hard mopar fan with a chevy engine, my grandfather gave it to me before he passed away! I will be purchasing another oldschool Chevy to put it in after the durango!
Great video. I take issue with two things. First his term "hone". When he refers to "hone" here the process he's taking about is boring. As in line boring - what she calls line honing. He also refers to honing the cylinders when actually the proper term is boring. Honing is the process of roughing up the cylinder, using a cross-hatch pattern, so that the piston rings can seat promptly and properly. He also refers to "line honing" the crank journals in the block. Honing doesn't happen there at all ever. Boring is the process of removing material to make something larger/straighter/rounder or to remove damage or all four. Namely the cylinder bores or the crank or the cam bore. You would line bore a block's crank/cam if the block had seasoned itself out of align or you've installed new main caps. The second issue is his reference to not wanting to line bore the block because it would create issues with the timing chain. Nope, won't happen. When you line bore a block you do not change the centerline of the bore you change the size (and of course align the main journals in relationship to each other).
This was awesome. Excellent work gentlemen! I appreciate the why as well as the how. Just a great wealth of information. Looking forward to the next one!
yes the smog/air pump does take a couple of horse power to turn, the diverter valve can fail and make the engine backfire very loudly, the check valves can fail in a couple different ways, but ask a guy who has had a car with a working smog/air pump system if he has ever had to put exhaust pipes, mufflers or tailpipes on his car, the answer is usually 'no, I never have had to replace any of the exhaust system', the one benefit of this system is that it heats up the exhaust system getting rid of the water that collects in it, minimizing the formation of rust, thus greatly increasing the life of the exhaust system, I wouldn't necessarily install this system on my car but I wouldn't remove a working system either, it does have a benefit
Great video!!! Really appreciate your time and effort in explaining the process in the rebuild. The other video was fun to watch but this explanation video of that video is very helpful. ( p.s. thank you for not dissing the quadrajet carb too bad. Just had mine rebuilt to keep my '84 big block 454 original..... Even with air pump) :)
Looks like you actually advanced the timing to get it to run. One day I'll show you my trick to set the timing before you even crank the engine, guaranteed to fire on the first crank.
Fantastic forensic review of the the dead motor doctor! Quality work and parts costs money, so no belly aching when it's time restore what ever. Don't skimp.
Hagerty usually overdoes stuff and spends like it's corporate advertising and customer-relations. (Gosh, I guess it IS..!) But my chief complaint is that the wrench-guy NEVER found a root cause of the oil consumption and running dry. If he didn't accidentally fix the root cause, the problem will recur in a bit .. maybe another few years.
Guys, thoroughly enjoyed this video especially the back and forth between the both of you. Insightful questions asked with clear informative answers given. Kudos to the both of you! I'm new to your channel and looking forward to your future videos as well as watching some of the older ones. Could you, however, get fatter/brighter? laser points and hold them just a bit longer on what ever you are pointing out?
My 1st car in 1972 was a 69 SS/RS 396 4 Speed Posi Camaro. Paid $2,200.00 for it. The guy that owned it was in the newly formed Northern Calif Z-28 Asociación in San Jose Ca and was killed in Nam. My older brother was in the club too with a 1970 Z-28 w/427 Rat 4 speed. I had a Blue and Black 69 Mach 1 Mustang 4 Speed in my parents driveway test driving it. My brother called me and said "CHUCK" get down here right now I found a killer car. Had my 69 for 10+ years did all sorts of mods. I sold it for $4.000.00 during the odd/even gas crunch in like 1982-83. Dumbest thing I did in my whole life !!! I loved that car more than anything in my life !!! It was hugger Orange with a yellow pearl clear coat w/SS black stripes. One of the very very 1st Pearl Orange Cars anywhere !!! I had the block punched out w/12to1s pistons, custom headers, radical Cam, Accel Ignition, high rise tarantula intake... the 750 Holley set at an angle "/"... still makes me sick... The biggest reason I had to sell it... was to many tickets. I remember 1 time I took the trunk lid off and put my newly just out ATC 110 up on the back with lol with the ATC tires in the trunk and the front tire on the window and went down to Pismo Beach with my brother n buddy's w/ are sand rails... so many more stories...
Ive been enjoying the behind the scenes videos like these, but I would also like to see details about making the videos, like how you do those cool stop motion scenes and stuff.
I built my first 350 10yrs ago and had timing 180 out too after priming the oil pump... I had a flat tappet cam and was so worried I ruined it cause I had a hard time getting it fired... here I was on #6 too lol.
10.2:1 compression ratio is okay for 92 octane pump gas that can be had at most stations. Mine was bored .030 over = 402 ci, and the only pistons I could find for it were Federal Mogul cast.
Lmao! Omg only 2 quarts in a big block!? I'm pretty sure that'll definitely void the manufacturer warranty! Talk about putting away flogged and dripping wet,wow! Put in a Center Force clutch and maybe check the oil a tad more often and hey,it may even last a few years before the next rebuild. Lol! 2 quarts lol,i just can't get over that,oh well. Thanks for taking us along guys. ▪☆☆☆▪
Flat tappet cams are not really "flat". They are ground with a slope on the lobes, and the lifters are ground with a convex grind on the bottom. They only appear to be flat. This is what promotes the lifter to spin while the engine is being ran.
Flat bottom lifters have about a .005” dome ground on them and the cam lobe is ground with about a .002” or .003” bevel.... not only that the cam lobes are slightly offset so as to allow a better spin on the lifter... in a worn engine that spinning action starts to go away... the slide of the action of those worn or “flattened” parts wears the lobe and lifter rather quickly....
But 396 engines don't seem to get rebuilt and used very often. They were beasts on the dragstrips, but everyone seemed to forget them when the 400s and 454 came out. I was younger and going to strip, or watching them on TV. Blown 396s were terrors back then!
I beg to differ, this was a ressurection. 1st repairing the wrecked front end & 2nd curing the oil consumption /fouling & 3rd bumping the power with sound hot rodding. Keep up the great work & now onto that"nailhead"!
Not reusing the Quadrajet because of the availability of jets is a cop out. Every parts store in the US will have rebuild kits and changing the secondaries is as simple as removing one screw and selecting the right hanger and rods. The Q-Jet is much better for actual driveability than the Holley.
26:50 some engines were built with "Select fit" bearings. The crankshaft would be measured as it leaves the factory, then several different bearings would exist for each minor difference. If you owned such a car and could buff the crankshaft, you would need to re-measure and get a different set of select fit bearings. This is common on Nissan and Toyota engines.
I really enjoyed this indepth video however was wondering if you had a parts list in case someone wanted a similar build thanks for the time you took to educate me and others in this video
Love your work, can you explain what is meant when a Pontiac 400 cu in is said to be internally balanced and why it cannot be rebuilt. Thanks for your time
My only complaint is.. we didn't get to hear the car running after it was all put together!! Should have heard the run out of the garage, and then the burnout!! Other than that, great video!!
Precisely what I commented to the wrench-guy on during his series of short rebuild stages videos. It's now pretty clear that the oil problem is the geometry of the heads, block and intake not matching up. I don't think he ever found it.
Great video. I was hoping this was out when I got back from my underway. Quick question though. I have a DOHC V-8. Would I get more "bang for my buck" from just swapping out the four cams or chucking some kind of forced induction system on it? I mainly off road and I'm going to go from a 3.93 to a 4.88 rear diff with air locker.
you guys didnt line bore the block i think that is the most important thing to do if its perfect the crank will free wheel when spun by hand if block got hot cause of 2 quarts oil it has a good possibility that the line bore is off in the mains causeing crank to bind when torquednice work on the rest of the build though
Why did you skip completely over the fitment of the cam button. That’s a major major trim and clearance not even mentioned. These are the very things I personally need further details on. Please explain in detail on a future build. Many beginners will be extremely happy
