REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE | PT 14 

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Getting there, just a pointer…when you re-cut all 20 valves the valve clearance will be less and will need redoing 100%.

I was Senior Product Engineer for one of the 3 major European gasket manufacturers before I retired - and my view is that although replacing the CHG (cylinder head gasket) again guarantees 100% safety, in your case it probably wasn't needed as it hadn't been through a heat cycle. Old fibre CHGs definitely crush once (they rely on the crush to densify the fibre material, and embed the bore eyelets into the fibre), but an MLS (multi layer steel) CHG has embossments to focus the clamp load to where it is required. As long as you have a decent quality CHG where the functional (embossed) layers are made of spring steel (rather than some Chinese gaskets with mild steel functional layers!), they should not lose their 'set' on one clamping and unclamping. The heat cycle does affect the coating (probably FPM) and so if the gasket has been taken to full operating temperature, microsealing could be compromised by unclamping and reclamping. But keep it up - I truly admire your tenacity!!!!

i use a bicycle torque wrench for M6 bolts into aluminium. they only go up to 15nm. much safer

I am really enjoying watching your build and glad you are getting so much help from experienced guys. I can't help but please use this money for your next sausage and bacon sarnie on me, maybe it helps fuel you to the finish line.

A tip for the future. If the head is coming off for this sort of work and all the original parts are going back on ( not the gasket obviously ) . Set the engine to tdc on one with everything lined up and mark the cam sprockets and chain with a paint pen. Provided the crank is in the same position for re assembly its a lot easier to get the cam timing right first time.

Are your torque wrenches calibrated? Should come with a certificate if so.. looks a huge wrench for 10nm... You will get there buddy 👍

The way you test if your valves are seated correctly. You either put fluid on the face of the valve and use compressed air to blow through the intake track or the exhaust track. If the fluid bubbles you’re not sealed correctly. Or you pour fluid down the intake track or the exhaust track if it leaks through then you have leak. There’s another way too but that involves more tools that usually machine shops have. But simply pouring fluid on the face of the valve and seeing if it leaks through is a flawed way of testing. I’m enjoying your content it’s pretty hilarious 😆

Might be worth checking the calibration of the torque wrench. Think we you were turning the engine over using the front sprocket. You appeared to be turning the sprocket clockwise. If so this will be turning the crank the "wrong" way, pulling the cam chain against the cam chain tensioner,. This can cause problems and might be why the timing was out. From memory, recommended way to turn the crank on these. Take the cap off the end of the crank. Screw in a bolt with a nut on it, tighten the nut against the crank to lock the bolt. Then you can use a spanner on the bolt to rotate the crank. Also, grinding the valves in might well have tightened up the valve clearances. Probably worth checking the clearances again. Also provides a double check against any valves / buckets / shims being mixed up.

As you have lapped the valves (twice) your valve clearances will be out and need reshiming

you should have replaced the valve stem seals

Can't wait for someone to spend FIVE HOURS critiquing your efforts at the weekend rather than doing something himself...... Well done on carrying on with it

You can save yourself some effort and redo the compression test on your work bench. You only need to put power to the starter motor. 👍

Dont use that adjustable spanner with taps please. Get a tap wrench to ensure even load and it's straight when turning into a hole

For a complete novice dude you’re smashing it! But please don’t be afraid of having longer videos I think 20-30 mins is ideal! So stop feeling like you have to cut them down so short!

As much as I enjoy your videos and I do admire you for having a go, you have proven beyond any shadow of a doubt that unless you really know what your doing then leave well alone or get somebody who really knows what there doing to help you, a good engine builder is a true artist. And if cam cap bolts strip again, get the head helicoiled they are brilliant,, because I had the same thing happens to me on my z1000 rebuild. 👍

The good news is, the parts guy likes you.

Hate to say this, but as you have ground the valves in, you need to check the valve clearances again. Grinding them in you've removed material from the valve seat so the stem will be higher an close the valve clearances. But I love the project.

I literally cheered when you came back with “good news” after torquing the bolts down 😂 keep up the good work dude you’re killing it!

We've all been there, and will be there again, some time in the future. Great video's and a real reflection of how most of us 'fumble' through our repairs and restoratios. Don't give up - He who perseveres, never stops learning!

You can't have the highs without the lows, keep cracking on fella. 👍

Don’t lose faith, mate. It’s great watching you overcome everything the bike throws at you. The satisfaction you’ll experience when you finally get it on the road will be worth it! 💪

Keep going! Your videos and honesty are top quality!

The (video) ‘tension’ 8, 9, 10 Nm! I was on the edge of my seat.

Don’t give up on Thunder Race, make it more worth while and rewarding when you finish. All an adventure and learning curve, will all have to start somewhere. Don’t give up, your doing a good job 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽

Wow outstanding job sir. I feel your pain. But your resilience will pay off. Great video.

The joys of working on old bikes, have a 1994 fireblade, I do try to get OEM parts as they just fit better.

Don't give up mate.... Your doing so well and learning so much along the way, stick with it and it will be so worth it in the end.... Bloody good job fella

Thunder ace was my first bike I’d owned new from the showroom so for nostalgic reasons I’d love to have another but thanks to your pain I’ll leave it in the past and keep it in my memories 😆

I feel your pain. A Yamaha FJ1100 was my project a few years ago. Valve's and timing and broken bolts. I feel your pain. Keep going. The feeling at the end of the build, that you have completed is awesome

Ray, welcome. I also have a Yamaha Thunderrace and am also in the process of restoring it. Well, we have a small problem in that there are no spare parts in Kazakhstan. Well, why don’t I despair and say that I will do it. I also really liked your idea of painting the frame, and I will repeat the same thing.

Fair play to you mate. Ive been following your progress since the begining. Patience of a saint

Another little bit, should avoid using extensions with a torque wrench as it can throw the numbers off. also should try and torque in one motion, my method is tighten up normally then final torque with the wrench

Ah mate that absolutely sucks, I think if you are gonna do vital internal engine torque specs you need to spend top dollar on a torque wrench other wise it might not be accurate Also it's absolutely vital to get an air compressor to blow out bolt holes to clear anything that might have gone into the holes

to all the negative comments about the builder. No one learns by getting things right the first time. I am a toolroom machinist by trade and not an expert on motorcycle's. That did not stop me from building a Harris framed GPZ. I had a big bore block installed and assembled the whole engine. I also messed up the valve timing first go and bent a valve when turning the engine by hand. It did not stop me from carrying on. I ended up with one monster bike. I also converted a 1973 Kawasaki H2 triple to case reed induction. I was told by a well know Kawasaki expert it would never work. It ended up going from the standard 72bhp to 130 rear wheel HP and is now a very sort after motorcycle. Never let anybody stop you having a go.

Loving the content, the editing seems to be getting better too.

Imagine if you were still on the drive

I've lost count of how many times I've threatened to set fire to my Thunderace, and I haven't had to open the engine up yet, good luck, they ride great, keep up the good work.

Mate,..if it makes you feel any better, I’ve just cooked the head gasket on my ZX9R, so I’ve also got to pull the engine, strip down, check mating faces and check the valve shims while I’m there. I’m not looking forward to it, as something ALWAYS goes wrong regarding seized or stripped bolts, but watching you persevere makes me feel that spiritually, we’re all connected when we’re cursing in our separate sheds and garages. We all feel the pain and celebrate the win! Keep on keeping on, brother. We’re all behind you…. And your content is really professional now.

Also torque wrenches need to be calibrated from time to time. Personally I’ve found Teng to be pretty good but gentle all the way

I was looking forward to this episode and it hasn't dissappointed! Well done for persevering; it truly is a testament to your character. By the time you've finished with this build, 'you will be a professional mate' 😆

hey man keep going man you are doing good im learning so much form you and looking forward to the end of it riding down the road

Those headbolts are often times ONE TIME use only because they are stretch bolts, IF you reuse them ignore the torque settings!! Especially if there is any oil anywhere near the threads.

Keep going brother! You’re killing it, you’re an inspiration to me to give things like this a go.

Great vid Buddy . I would have did the rings tho when you had it out. Still . Hopefully when you reinstall the engine it will start with no issues . Fingers crossed for you . Keep the faith 🙂

Glad you haven't lost heart mate , it's all a learning curve , and i look forward to the next one

Amazing patience man ! You are nearly there. I can hear that engine purring away!

Good on yer. Tip - Grease your tap first - it helps to prevent aluminium from 'tearing' and picks up the swarf.

Valves probably didn't need grinding. Head gaskets are a one shot use only. Always run a tap down the threads when rebuilding engines .this will stop bolts breaking and screwing the ends off. Just some rebuild tips for you I bet there's nothing wrong with the piston rings.

I wouldn't arse about doing the piston rings, but you absolutely 100% need to redo the valve clearances. You've changed them by lapping (twice)

Let's hope after all that hard work, the motorcycle gods are watching over you. Good luck 😎👍🏍

Your best video so far👍😀👍

Now there's a man who needs a nice sunny holiday

Well done mate you just got to keep going I’m sure it will get there we are all behind you 👍❤️

Appreciate the story every video for new viewers but can you add a timestamp to skip it for those of us watching every episode. Keep up the good work!

But you’ve learned so much, you’re a head specialist now Ryan ….that don’t sound rite 😂 working on engines can be an emotional rollercoaster 🎢

Hi Ryan. Didn't see you checking the valve clearances after lapping in the valves.

I love your uploads rye. It's amazing what you take on as a newbie. Good on you!

love your patience and dedication. if it fails, at least you have had a go. touch wood it all turns out well for you. keep the videos coming. and on to the next project

This was a very good video. Usually, I don’t so apologies for giving advice. A small high-end torque wrench for low torque applications is a must, and at least a low-end compressor, but making sure to put good quality filters to keep the water out of whatever you’re blasting with air. I’m sure you’ve already considered all of the above. Just trying to help. OK keep up the great work, Rye👏

I am behind you every step of the way and willing you to succeed (As I am sure you will!) Keep up the amazing work mate, the content is absolutely Top Notch!

If you cut the valve seats or grind them in your going to need to reset the valve clearances

It’s not all fun and games , you will find as you go on pitfalls just waiting to test you, experience and knowledge after a few years will get you over the problems.

Future Mat Armstrong in bike world 👌👌👌

Good work☕️🏁

Excellent work and definitely worth having a Helicoil kit in your workshop and learning how to use it. 👍❤️🇬🇧

Keep going Ryan 👍

Oh Man that was tense. 8nm, then 9nm then 😲10nm! Nail biter, but glad it worked out. Stay the course, the Thnuderace is bags of fun. 😎

Hi mate, Did you recheck the valve clearances? That could have caused your rough running and low compression if you had made a mistake the first time you put the engine back together, worth double checking 👍

I'm feeling for you ... dont know whether to laugh or cry ... but I'm totally hooked and cant wait for the next episode ... my goodness, that bacon n sausage roll 👌 yum

Really admire what you’re doing, just one piece of advice though, get yourself a tap wrench. It’s so important when tapping a hole that the tap is going in straight and square, something that can never be achieved using an adjustable wrench or even a normal wrench/spanner.

Well done top effort before you put the engine back into the bike test the compression? I agree you probably didn't need to replace the piston rings but could you see the cross hatching on them were they glazed? last thing you could helicoil if you had stripped the thread well done again top effort

Dead impressed with how open you are.....rather than a tap and dye i would suggest a helicoil?

Good vid as usual. You did remove those valve stem oil sills before you set about grinding those valves in again ? and you fitted new ones afterwards. looked like you left the old ones on. Id be concerned the amount of thread you pulled out head to , that really needs an insert doing, that bolt will probaly pull once it gets hot. Tricky buisness engine building with no formal training or help. Keep going you will get there.

Brill content mate. Definitely entertaining & inspirational. Keep going the ends not too far away. Looking forward to your next project.

Had the top end been vapourblasted? If it had, it really did need going over with a drill and tap as the media will build up in the holes

Good on yeh doing it yourself, I'm on with 3 yamaha bikes with 20 valve motors including a thunder ace slowly rebuilding them 👍

Great episode glad you got the bolt back in 👍👍👍

Carry on you are doing fine the only way to learn is to do it

Enjoying your videos and wouldn’t mind them being longer, 30-40 minutes?

We're on this journey with you mate - keep going!

Some camshaft cap bolts are also stretch bolts, just like the cylinder head bolts, and should really be replaced. Sometimes as with my ZX9r, only some are stretch bolts, this is why it is so important to do a lot of research, use the manufacturers workshop manual, and get advise wherever possible. I trained as a mechanic many years ago, but I still do this on jobs and vehicles I've never done before, and to some extent on jobs where I have done them before, best prepare and double check still. Tbf also not doing them up in the correct sequence, and quarter turn at a time, puts a lot of pressure on some of the camshaft cap bolts, this is why even the camshaft caps can break, and that also means new head as they can not come from another engine due to the way they are made.

I had a YZF_1000, I enjoyed that bike. I am now on an 05 R1, outwardly the engine looks similar. Maybe you can find a used 04,05,06, and make it fit ?

you only learn by your mistakes. you are doing great. you will get there becouse you haven't given up. 👍👍👍

Well done mate you have stuck with it , many would of thrown the towel in . Top man.....

Maybe it's worth getting your torque wrench calibrated. Good luck with the build.

Loved the vid, you are doing a great job. It’s just not easy and that’s why garages charge so much. This time I reckon you’ll win 👍

I’m dead proud of you mate. I know how things can go tits up. Great vid.

Would love to see a Q&A follow up video where you go through the comments, or maybe a livestream replay where all the “experts” can chip in real time 😅. Great channel, subbed for the RS, loving the new direction.

I still think not replacing the piston rings and getting the bores honed is false economy,yes it's only done 20.000 miles but the bores were corroded quite badly from standing for years and a good "seal" is crucial to good compression.

Hi you will need to check the valve clearance again as re lapping the valves will cause them to tighten up i have rebuilt a couple of these engines and correct valve clearance is vital for correct running ie idling etc they tend to run like a bag of spanners if not set up well

That was intense,,Jesus Christ....I tip my hat to you,your defo getting on with it.well done for not smashing that motor with a sledge hammer..lol.looking forward to the next one that's for sure.

Stay with it you’ll smile from ear to ear when fire up With a big sense of achievement 👍

OK so I’ve been watching all 14 episodes so far and I’m treating this as a Bible because I recently just picked up a 1997 Yamaha thunder Ace 1000 myself. The previous owner said the motor was blown and I have yet to dive into it other than taking basics apart have not gotten into the engine yet how can I get in touch with you personally if possible to touch base with you for details in the future because honestly the videos and your help are amazing. I just need more. I hope this helps to understand what your videos do for others.

Don't give up on the thunder arse!

It’s all learning … it’s all learning … you be a thunderace expert now!

Well done buddy can't wait to see her finished. You have done to much to not complete this thunderace now.

Don't quit, keep it going 💪

I admire your perseverance well done

Yea boi, go on Rye my son!!!