Tear down, cleaning and reassembly of the carb from my 1954 Lincoln SA200 welder. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe, comment and share.
He thank you for the well produced video. I got an old 57 long hood that I gotta do some carb work to and it helped me understand the marvel carb a whole lot!
Like your video GAcatskinner, i have a TSX 670 on a Allis CHalmers d14, new points condenser, new plugs, new battery, cleaned tank and lines, rebuilt the marvel and it idles good but when i start to rev up the rpm's it stumbles bad, i have adjusted the power needle as it does this, i cant figure out what the problem is, would appreciate you imput, thank you
I'm about to do this. My machine just started bogging when I put load on it. I changed the oil on my oil bath because I thought It was a air filtration problem but I'm starting to think it's the carb as it bogs and dies after load is put on for like 2 min. After I changed the oil in the oil bath it started and then died as soon as it ramped down from high into automatic and then wouldn't start from there. It would crank and start momentarily on the 3rd crank and then die. I let it sit for 10 min and it started up and ran for bout a min or min and a half and then died. I ordered all new plug wires and spark plugs as well but I'm thinking this could be an issue as well
Anytime you have two flat milled pieces of metal you want to tighten all screws evenly because if you don’t they will work each other like a lever and warp, if it’s enough warping you either need to replaced them or have a machine shop mill them again so they are perfectly flat and the gaskets seal, a quick fix is is using gasket maker or a thicker gasket I have never tried 2 gaskets but I don’t think it would work very well So make sure especially on engine heads to tighten evenly, there’s videos on how you can super easily warp engine heads and screw $1400 of metal pretty fast
How would I find the specific carburetor kit for my marvel schebler, I have inside stamped B101 and another number in the bowl where the float goes 22 or 2n, mine is on a welder and it has different attachments for the choke plate and throttle valve than what I see online mostly, it’s on a 1972 Lincoln sa 200 and I believe it is a f163, thanks 🙏 !
Azad Aranda the F163 should use the same carb as the one in this video. Here is a link for a kit: www.amazon.com/Carbman-Carburetor-Rebuild-FarmaLL-778-505/dp/B07F6B71DQ
These old carbs I have never seen warp but the best to use is a sanding board it needed to true up surface make one from shelving board and glue a piece of 120 grit sandpaper to it I've done blocks and heads this way never ever had a leak
Hey great job I like how you did the exhaust , Do you know where I could get a brand new exhaust for a F-162 motor? I have a 1960 SA 200 Hey thanks great Video
Kirsten Dunlap the most likely cause of that problem is either 1. The float or needle is stuck open or not able to close all the way. 2. The float is out of adjustment or 3.The float has a pin hole allowing it to fill with gas and sink. The kits don’t come with a new float, that is a separate part. If the problem is the float or needle sticking, cleaning and rebuilding the carb should solve your problem
Are these carburetors capable of burning clean? Mine smells like the choke is on all the time with accompanying (a little, not a lot) black smoke. I cannot tune this out. Is a Zenith a viable improvement?
