Rebuilding the Engine for this - Mini Baja Bug Project - Part 12 

This .....I have a mini little cheap china bench grinder that is dedicated to just that

Could've been a contaminated filler rod, usually associated with pulling the filler rod outside of the shielding gas.

Also, I've had to soak the shaft stubs in alchohol for 24 hours because the steel had some type of oil soaked pretty deep into the surface and carb cleaner wouldn't remove it. This and fresh everything, rods, sanding wheel and a new torch tip did the trick. I almost gave up on those shafts. Thank god for my dad's 50+ years experience.

@@laymanengineer7502 acetone is a good cleaner for certain metals. As my buddies dad would say "old guys rule" with the experience and knowledge they have.

True that thats a great tip ive heard that aswell

He will.

i cant believe a place like go power sports or jeggs have not picked him up yet imagine the builds if a big name brand backed the builds. but im loving the raw backyard feel of the vids it makes you feel like you can also build like this

Part of the magic is the shed. This I’m convinced of. Gives him so much of what I’ve found relatable to. Even though I know I’ll never that good of a machinist.

I was going to suggest similar.Putting a pin in the center of each and then welding so the axle stays straight.

Yup exactly what I came here to say

Exactly what I was thinking that the gas itself could be contaminated! I’ve had that problem a few yeas ago the shop I worked at even bought a new welder as soon as it was hooked up and the problem continued we knew it was the gas contaminated!!!

I've chased the same problem and finally figured out it was contaminated gas.

This was my guess as well. I’ve had it happen before and it was super frustrating

Have also had this problem with a bad tank of gas swapped bottles to a known good bottle and was fine.

this get's my vote as well.... that sounds like GAS issues

I will add to this by saying use compressed air to push the pistons out to clamp onto the rotor. This works so that you do not have to have the hydraulics set up while fabricating brake mounts.

Also set the calipers at the begining of their slider travel, since these are a single piston floating caliper, otherwise as your pads wear you will run out of travel and only actuate one pad

All you have to do is turn the crows foot 90 degrees and it will negate the effect.

The equation you're thinking is (distance between bolt n applied force) x (applied force) divided by 12 = actual torque

If he set the wrench to 25 ft-lbs, And his torque wrench looks to be ~1.5' long, then he applied (25 ft lb) / (1.5 ft) = 16.67 lb on the handle. If the crows foot extends the wrench by ~1" (1/12 ft), making for a 1.5ft + 1/12ft total length wrench. Then he applied (16.67lb) * (1.5 ft + 1/12 ft) = 26.38 ft-lb. His crows foot is so short here it probably won't matter in the end. Doesn't look like he cleaned the threads up or bought new fasteners for it anyways so that torque probably transferred to even less pressure on the gasket in the end.

☝️ what he said lol I forgot to add in my comment that the distance was in inches which is why you have to divide by 12 at the end but it's all the same. He just took the time to do the equation n show that the difference isn't a huge issue in this instance

The torque value would still be higher even with the extension at the 180 degree position.

Welcome welder. May you build wonderful and amazing things. I pray that your beads all run straight as a laser and your burns tell the story’s of greatness bestowed upon this new world. Long life and prosperity to you sir. Ps. Buy yourself a can of burn relief spray and keep it next to the welder.

I've alwayse just used hose clamps like the ones for your radiator hose... you snug them up but not real tight.... then put the cylinders on and the cylinders push down the clamps..... works great.... you may need to dent the top edge of the hose clamp 180 degrees away from the clamp to keep it from trying to go into the cylinder... or just loosen the clamp a bit.... for years I had a set of hose clamps set aside on a nail just for ring compressors. this way you don't have to hold the rings compressed and find the pin location for the ring gap on a 2 stroke line up the rings put the hose clamp on the piston and snug it down...being careful not to brake a ring because it is not lined up with the tiny pin.

Thanks.Definitely going to use that.

Thank you

you got that right!

I don't think it's base metal contamination looks like lack of argon coverage due to the size of the bar. A trailing shield made from high heat tape most likely would fit the problem.