Well done - great pace, amount of detail, and done by someone who knows what they are doing. You just turned this into a 20-30 min job with all documentation included. Thanks!
Well done.. Right to the point.. I just did my Walbro carb rebuild on a weed wacker in the shed and wasn't quite sure about the process with the hi-low jets, but you did a great job clarifying it.. Best video I have seen yet on this subject... Thank you!!
I've a few 2stroke engines and you've given a good guide to rebuild carb if the need should arise thanks mate for the time and effort to share your knowledge with others
Awesome !! I had great success rebuilding mine, due to this Vid.. The only thing that I made a mistake on was putting the diaphragm gasket on after the diaphragm (which made more sence to me) .. But watching your video a second time got things arranged the way that they should be.. With the way that I installed the gasket the first time the saw wouldn't draw fuel on its own.. With a simple reverse as shown correctly in your video my saw started with much enthusiasm and runs great !! Thanks
thank you very much I rebuilt the carburetor and the chainsaw works great. I pumped it five times for the prime and I pulled it two times on the rope and it started. I think it was the pump in the carburetor which was bad. I did not fool with the Jets left them at the settings. Now I can got o trim my tree this whole experience is only $15 and I thank you very much
Nice video. 5 turns out on the main tells me someone recognized it was running lean and tried to correct with the mixture screw, when it was likely the inlet screen was clogged, the pump diaphragm was stiff or there was some other fuel restriction. Unfortunately the kits are now like $22 and Walbro no longer offers nozzle check valve assemblies.
i just wanted to say that this video was very helpful. i watched it several times before i went out and bought a carb rebuild kit for my homelite hlt-16 classic weed eater. i had the video on my phone going as i was rebuilding it!! thank you for the great video.
Thank you very much. I found this much more useful than the video from Walbro. Good length and pace. Very clear. I was particularly happy to see how the new, translucent blue reed valve was installed since that is in no available document I could find.
Thanks for a clear-cut video! I did this with my Walbro WT707, and one has to admit this is close to brain surgery or watch-making! It's very satisfying if you finish it without messing something up, though!
I just followed your video and repaired the same, or very near the same carb as you And so far so good. Just got to try and start it now, the chainsaw that is. Thanks for the clear instructions,, well pleased, id never have attempted that until i found this video 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi there...thank you very much for the video...A query I have is the high low adjusters on my 05 Walbro have plastic sleeves pressed onto them. These plastic sleeves have additional little pieces attached on their sides which mean each adjuster needle can only be rotated 300 degrees by which time the little attached piece of plastic meets the other adjuster needle and can therefore move no further. So how do I remove those needles for mantainance...hoping you might have come across this situation. Have tried pulling off these sleeves but they not for budging. But little pieces breaking off...
You are assuming the jet setting were not changed by the previous owner or user. I never put them back at their original settings. Normally, on most carbs I set them at 1.0 to 1.5 turns out on both jets. This setting will get most engine running and I can adjust from there.. The only reason I save old diaphragms is to make sure I have the right new diaphragms. I use my Walbro brass W gage to set the height of the lifter on Walbro carbs and my Zama Z gage to set those on Zama carbs.
Rich you forgot the most important item to clean is the five small orifices in the throat of the carburetor. Yes you used the spray can, but did not shoot it through with the low jet orifice stem removed with the high jet orifice stem fully seated and with the high jet orifice stem removed with the low jet fully seated(have safety glasses on as it is going to go everywhere I used a eyedropper to put the cleaners into the orifices good to do the same). Only fixed the Borg carburetor when using alternating 91% alcohol and acetone (fingernail polish remover) through the jets that come out at the throat. A twisty bread wrapper(strand of copper wire / wire brush strand will do to) has a wire in it that is small / stable / flexible enough to clean the five jets in the throat(you may need to remove the butterfly disc by turning the lever). Clean(put the wire in the orifices wiggling it around and as far into the orifice as possible) from the throat position, alternate cleaners, wire, and compressed air. When you get the cleaners to flow through in a quick manner then you are close to solving the issue of clogged orifice jets. Make sure you use 5x glasses or 10x free standing magnifier to see the five orifices in the Borg carburetor. This is what worked for me, because it was the last step in getting gas to the engine. Took the carburetor(Borg) apart a dozen times, until I did the above there was victory staring me in the face. Practice safety and get another five years out of your trimmer, chainsaw, leaf blower, rototiller, and al other machines that use this style carburetor.
good job, how are your fingers doing after being soaked in the carb cleaner??, the blue"diaphragm " is we used to call the REED valve plate in outboard motors (got a sweet deal on an outboard motor once because someone had rotated the plate just enough to cause malfunction of the reed valves, rotated it just enough- ran like a Swiss watch ). can the little screen be washed out and reinstalled safely? again - good video, regards
I agree with the ultrasonic parts cleaner. I got mine at a yardsale. I used dishsoap and boiling water, for 15min. Far less toxic. It has never failed to put a carb back to new. Carb cleaner kills your hands bad to breath, and stinks.
Hi I liked your video and I tried to go to the website you showed us but it would not show up on the net do you have the exact address for the site would like to check out his prices for gaskets
Excellent Video. Very well put together. Thank you. I was curious if the vent hole orientation was critical. If so I guess I'll have to tear down my chain saw again!
great vid thanks. however I noticed that when you took off the fuel pump diaphram there was no gasket present. And when you reassembled that area you put in a new gasket. I was wondering how you knew a gasket needed to be there? or does the gasket even matter? I ask because I have the same carb and there is no gasket on mine. You may also want to have a look at Walbro's repair vid right from the factory. it goes into much more detail that you do not show here.
Nice job very informative. The only part I did not understand was the measurement you took on the needle prior to disassembly. Were you measuring how far the rod was protruding from the phillips retaining screw?
there's a small hole in the cover plate of the diaphram. You said to remember what side it faces but I slipped up. What is the hole for? I have a WT526 carb. Great video, thanks a lot!
Since the hole is only there for funtional purposes of equalization and relieving the pressure on the back side of the diaphragm. Therefore, it should not matter where it is positioned. When I rebuilt my Crafstman Leaf Blower WT875A carb, I postioned the hole in the downward side of the carb to help keep dirt and crud out of it.
Richpin ,when doing a fuel pressure test and u lose a significant amount of psi with key on at the fuel rail, that is a indication of a leaking injector or bad fuel pump? My specs are 48 psi at fuel rail and only getting 42 whith a bleed down of 3 psi in less then two mins
thanks for the video I have tried to rebuild a couple of them and seen things I done wrong but great how to I might have some question on a couple project if you don't mind leading a hand
When I prime my carb, it allows fuel through the intake line but then comes right out the overflow and back into the tank, never releasing into the inner throat, so the engine gets no fuel and wont start...why is this do you think? ty
what are the silver disks that can be seen at 7:25, my rebuild kit included a replacement one but they appear to be stuck in place - also how do u adjust the lever(7:30)? just bent the lever up to the bosses?
I was hoping you would have done the welsch plug... Not sure about the saw (didn't see that video) maybe there was some passages plugged under that welsch plug???
Neatly done,richpin. I searched for a long time for installation info after getting this kit,with no luck whatever. Your video made it look simple. Thanks for posting. BTW,I'm from Kansas,& I enjoyed yer down-eastern accent! So, ignore the guy below with the Peter Griffin comment. :-)
Carefully puncture and pry out, new one set in place and with a suitable drift tap it to expand it then seal edges with clear nail varnish or some seal all
great video this will help me alot i just picked up an old jonsred 2036 turbo that seems to have a crab problem it will run just fine when you sprey ether into the card but just dosent get gas dos this sound like a rebuild will fix it or do you think it is somthing other than the carb? i just replaced the fuel line and you can see the gas going all the way to the carb but it dosent enter the jet. i took apart the carb and it looked faerly clean and there was no blockeges or any dameged gaskets or any thing. @richpin06a
I just rebuilt my walbro carb that is very similar to yours but it's from a Homelite weedeater and it's not priming. The only difference is my primer is on the carb .
I just subbed and signed up at this place. .sent them an email and mentioned I seen it on your channel. .I have a question. .I'm working on a walboro wa19a carb and wanted to know do I replace the gasket under the half moon thingy and is there also a diaphragm that gets installed also..I have checked everywhere but nothing found. thank you...also subbed thumbs up
Have you checked to see if it's drawing fuel when it fires? Easiest way to check is prime the engine. Kick it over and see if it 'burps' if it does then, spark ok, air ok, fuel supply -suspect and compression - suspect. Check comp by trying to turn the engine over either with starter or by hand and it should be really difficult, lots of 'feel' in the compression stroke, if that's ok then fuel supply- check bleed hole from pressure from crank case os open to pump diaphragm. - gasket could be blocking the hole or port has other obstruction. Diaphragm may not be saeling...lots to cheks.plus blocked fuel line...
Nice Vid.....I wish I would have watched this before I got my FAT fingers in mine......Had to buy a new carb off eBay for $22 which included spark plug and air and fuel filters. Great deal but took a month to arrive.....
sorry, forgot to add. I think 5 turns out is way too rich. the WT manual for walbro states the initial adjustment should be 1 & 1/4 turn to 2 turns max
Anyone purchasing a rebuild kit is taking a gamble that the internal check valves aren't bad because they're not included in the rebuild kit. I've wasted my money twice buying kits that didn't help and I ended up having to buy a new carburetor anyway. Even the tech at the local chainsaw shop told me I'm better off buying a new carb instead of gambling that the kit will fix the problem. They didn't engineer the check valves in these carbs to be serviceable.
Even the new chinese carbs only last a couple of months and start to run like crap. They can't handle the new junk ethynol gasoline that's being sold now. I'm about ready to go with a re-chargeable or plug in electric string trimmer and chainsaws. Then I'll have no more starting hassles!
