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I had some air drying clay (it wasn't great for sculpting minis, but fairly cheap) and I used that instead of plasticine. it worked pretty well imo, because it takes 3 days to dry out fully it was still soft enough to remove easily but didn't stick too much to either my model or the silicone.
Great method, gonna use them on a few..... Battleaxe 40 million minis. As for all the tiny bubbles in the recast: I think that would actually be a good place to use some of that weird, liquid greenstuff. Seems to be perfect for filling holes...
Great video! A quick tip. Apply a layer of silicone with a cheap brush before pouring it. That reduces the chance of getting bubbles immensely. The next step for better recasts is a vacuum chamber.
Using the lego so it's basically quick release is an absolute stroke of genius always wanted to try something like this and you've made it look so easy and doable, and you're spot on finished in gold makes it look quite classy... Great video glad I subbed.
I casted myself some not Warhammer Miniatures and I really have to advice anyone who wants to cast some minis to youse a proper release agend, because it will make the molding process easier and it helps to preserve the mold. Over time the mold will get demaged, without a releaseagent. Usually The best agent to buy you'll find in the use advice, when you buy the silicone. Another advice I can give is to buy a self venting silicone. It is more expensive, but you won't have to deal with nasty air bubbles :). Sry for my English... I'm from Germany
Great video. Neat mini, reminds me of the great days of simple, fun miniatures from the late 80's/ early 90's. Also great idea taking off the shield. Now you can have him resting his hand on other stuff. Rocks, walls, pile of skulls (he does look rather barbarianish). Cheers!
The day the warhammer 40k video went up i downloaded it cause i know better with youtube and copyright system. nice vids im always gaming on a budget with 3 kids so any money i can save is good for me.
your videos made me order minis, casting clay, silicone.. the whole shebang. not because I want to play or sell, but because I want to try this out myself.
so i watched your videos and i finally tried your method as the first half turned out PERFECT!! I will try the other half of the mold when i get home from work. i cant thank you enough for your videos keep up the good work
Mann 200 is the best spray silicone release I have ever used. Definitely worth looking into, my good sir. I’ve been molding and casting shit for the last 13 years, but definitely nothing as small and intricate as this, damn good work.
Procedure is much the same. Needs a heat resistant silicone rubber, and you can get Room Temperature Vulcanising (RTV) heat resistant silicones for that purpose. You can even gravity-cast (as opposed to centripetal - spin - casting) them. But yes, Molten white-metal-alloys (WMA - "pewter" is one kind of WMA. I use a tin, antimony and bismuth alloy) are HOT. WEAR protective gear. ALL of it. Heat resistant gloves (big ones). Face shield (the molten alloy may spatter, you don't want it hitting your face)) Filter mask (not just because of lead - some WMAs contain it - but bismuth is also not good to breathe),
@@mistery8363 unless your buying all your pewter from a single specific source, and can verify when and how it was made, ALWAYS tread on the side of caution and assume there’s lead in your pewter. Most people buying it for recasting purposes like this will just buy scrap pewter, and older prices to melt down, and thus, higher chance of encountering lead.
just use the "blue stuff" to create mold. It separates better and can be melted again many times. Since the resin hardens for a long time, I recommend pouring it into each half of the mold separately and joining the halves after an hour. This will give you time to remove the bubbles with a toothpick and get the perfect miniature.
@@michaelkasubaski9426 most definitely. And the fanbase is even worse. I challenge you to find a 40k community that won't ban you for speaking about 3d printing
@@KneeCapHill ..... thats very sad, i only got into the hobthis last year, dropped a comparable smallish fortune to amass what i have, cost saving stuff like this and those would be amazing
Using a vacuum chamber, or pressure chamber would help with bubbles, even a DIY vibration table. Making those would actually potentially be a cool DIY video, just a suggestion. Cool content keep it up and thanks!
Hi love your videos. I have a two part question I have used the resin on your affiliate link and it sets crazy fast I was wondering can you recommend a slower setting one. As I read about using a pressure pot as it will force the air bubbles smaller or even out of the mould totally. Or are pressure pots witchcraft for such small intricate models?
Next time when you make a mould tap it from underneath after you pour the rubber. When you see no more bubbles coming to the surface it means the rubber has no more air bubbles. I have tried it myself and it works.
Use a spray on mold release, you won't regret it. Also I learned a good method for bringing bubbles up to the surface from a guy I worked with a privateer press. Vibrate the table it's on. You can do this with a variety of things from a massager to a table fan with a fin broken off and some clamps. He used a knock off version of one of those hitachi "back massagers." An hour of vibration works out the worst. Also, if you end up with spots that just won't fill for whatever reason, you can cut little elongated triangles into the surrounding mold to give the resin somewhere to go further.
Okay so a lifehack....do not use the flat legobase, just make a big flat plasticine and put the frame on top. Use Silicone spray for releasing and better silicone spread, when the first half is done you do not have to diassemble the entire frame just enough to build for the other side. Now spray again silicone spray, then wipe up the part which is on the silicone(or better yet spray the silicone into some small cup and use a brush to spread it on the figure), then spread a little talcum with a brush evenly on the mold itself. Por the other half....the two side will came apart nicely and the mold will be less lkely full of bubbles
You can mix in sand, small beads, ground up plastic scrap or whatever else with the epoxy to bulk it up and not use so much. Also spin the mold so the resin will reach every corner. As in put it in a bucket and pretend it's a lasso.
I have a cast-off anime figure with a loose chest plate that I'd like to make back-up duplicates of when it inevitably falls off/breaks. Would your method work for thin pieces of plastic like that?
So this is the first of your videos I've seen. To be honest, I was looking for Warhammer 40k content, but your video was concise and enjoyable to watch. 5/10 friend, jolly good work, add a subscription to your list!
since i could not find silicon rubber just like yours (and i am too impatient to order from amazon) i bought some very similar, and always have problem with seperating the two molds after second part cures, i tried to put a layer of chalk spray and that did not work well, do you have any idea/advice ? Yea i started to make molds after watching your videos :D You really inspired me to do something - great job!
You'll most definitely need some type of mold release and also to make sure the first part is totally, completely cured before you pour the second part. You can use a super thin layer of Vaseline (petroleum jelly). Check out The Crafsman - Steady Craftin' for an excellent resource on this stuff. Edit: gave bad info I can't back up so I removed it
@@starksmurf, oops, apparently I don't know what the heck I'm talking about since I can't find the thing where I saw about using isopropyl alcohol. I'm gonna edit my comment. You can still use petroleum jelly or tons of other stuff. Just Google DIY mold release. But also, baby powder is supposed to work too.
I agree 100% with Cee Jay, use petroleum jelly. I do molds every so often and have never had a bad release with good ole vaseline. I've heard alcohol or a mix of alcohol and jelly work, but I haven't given it a go.
How many uses do you reckon a silicon mould has? If it is a low number, how would you go about duplicating the mould with a more durable material? Maybe material for a vid?
@pel thoron Thanks for the in depth answer. Won't pretend I understood all of it but a fair few casts for normal silicon basically. Theoretically, could you take the first model you cast, set it aside then use it further down the round to make another mould? Like if you borrowed an original from a friend, made a mould, then kept the first cast as a subject for a replacement mould?
The resin cast comes out of the mould easy so doesnt damage it in anyway so I reckon you can make loads of casts, I think time would be the main factor in the mould deteriorating.
Bit of a dated vid, but I've got some Greatsword Angry Mushroom Men (wink) that have very open posing and lots of sticky-outy bits to them, would this work for that sword of thing or would the detail just wind up getting lost/broken off too easy?
Clearly these are excellent techniques that would not work at all on Warhammer miniatures or indeed on any miniatures made with the IP owned by Games Workshop.
@@Waywardpaladin and did you not read my comment he has posted a video of it but he took it down Read the other comments people are also mentioned where is that video he said he took it down
never use plasticine with silicon molding rubber as the plasticine contains Sulphur which can interfere with the hardening of the silicone . . . I use a non-hardening modeling clay which softens with heat and contains no sulphur . . . I've been making mold for 35 years
Is the clear resin less dangerous than the non clear resin in your links? Just got the non clear resin and there are a hell of a lot of warnings (cancer if inhaled stuff)
How do you pose the mini if it has its arms in front of the body holding a weapon like pike or a bazooka? Is it possible to make a mould like that?Maybe make two separate moulds? One for the body and the head and one for the arms?
If the figure is more intricate it would be best to make moulds of seperate parts, if its already glued together than you may need to make a 3 or even 4 part mould to accommodate all the sticky out bits =)
@@MiniatureHobbyist Both work well. Talc is also good as a filler with certain resins (so you use less resin. One of my resins is a translucent white when cured. With 10% talc, it goes opaque white. No difference in hardness or casting time. ).
@@MiniatureHobbyist Thanks! I've used the SG2000 resin from MB Fibreglass and that sets really quickly. Too quickly in some cases, like when trying to cast small pieces that need to be agitated to let the air out before the resin cures 🤔
Quite a few two-part resins (even "fast cure" ones) require at least 48-72 hours AFTER they harden to properly cure. I use a UV curing "oven" to speed it along (or you could leave them in the sunlight).
Like most hobbyists I have a drawer full of empty sprues that I’m keeping in case I could use them one day - anychance you could do a video on melting these down and pouring into moulds to be re-used please? I would prefer to create terrain as opposed to minis (walls, doors, crates etc) I’m asking as I love your work and videos but can’t afford the resin 👍
Random question. I have a resin 3D printer and I have printed up some bases that I want to make a mild for to re base my army. I flipped a mild from some of my prints. This failed as the silicon is still tacky and lost detail. As if it has not set. Do u have any advice. Iv wasted about half a l of silicon This has happened twice However from the same poor I used some old resin prints and the all sealed.
Use kids Plasticine. it really shouldn't melt plastic at all definitely not lego. Sounds like you were using something else, god knows what to be able to melt lego. those buggers are indestructible!
@@lazymansload520 The less paint a surface has, the higher the detail that can be produced from it when copied, that's why normally _new_ models or bitz are used as masters for moulds.
dont use the lego base plates! instead, build 4 seperate walls and align them with overlap, seal with hotglue. this gives more sice - versatility and easier demolding