A demonstration of reciprocating saw techniques and discussion of key features. The reciprocating saw is a versatile tool, so learn some of what you can do with it during remodeling or new construction.
As a woman who does her own DIY, I now feel very empowered to do more of my own work. Thank you very much for your contribution. I, for one appreciate it.
I will repeat the words of another viewer "Fantastic presentation; probably the best "how to" video I've seen on RU-vid yet. Clear, concise, right on the money." It is very educational video on this subject. Thank you very much.
This video will be here forever: Right on the money, skilled demonstrations, timely repeats of the more useful features, clear diction.....kept wondering why his voice sounded so familiar but a wiser post already nailed that one so no point in duplicating.
I really enjoyed this demo and your presentation style. A straight forward video from someone who knows what they're doing, with nothing to prove, just passing on the knowledge. I'm a newbie and need all the help I can get. Thanks for posting, I really appreciate it.
Just found a Dewalt 18 volt cordless on Ebay and have never used one, but knew I needed it around my homestead, so much repair work, some deconstruction, remodeling and I think your video has given me a ton of confidence and like the other comments, I have to say what a great presentation you did. Born shop teacher ! Like many women who originally took the traditional homemaker role, I've turned into a wanna be carpenter and if it wern't for videos like this, I'd be so much more hesitant to accept challenges. But there are a ton of us who have bought great old houses and by gosh, we want to learn skills and make a difference in our homestead. It's great to hire some things done if you have an infinite budget, but it feels so good to accomplish much of this work yourself. Can't wait to apply the teaching you have provided.
That's really nice to hear, and more power to you. I come across quite a few women who have the desire to get into home repair, woodworking or carpentry but feel intimidated or don't wish to upstage their male partner! But, most of this work is more about brain power than muscle power, so there's no reason for women to feel intimidated. Get out there and learn. You'll be rewarded ten-fold for the effort.
I'd add a basic 'tip' which is to keep the shoe of the tool up against the piece your cutting as much as possible. Trying to cut a pipe or board using the 'middle' of the blade can lead to a lot of shaking, vibration, and bent blades. If you keep the shoe up against your workpiece that won't happen. I think your vid is more aimed at advanced users, but just wanted to say that...
I recently purchased the new 12 Amp DeWalt Recip similar to yours. It has replaced my old B&D 5.5? Amp 2-speed Recip. HUGE difference. I definitely agree with your variable speed recommendation, especially for plunge cuts. I've built a few decks with mine, and I'd also recommend using a 'fine tooth' SHORT metal blade for plunge cuts in wood. (Cutting decking boards around deck posts) It cuts a bit slower than a course wood/demo blade, but is much more accurate and cleaner for precise work. The shorter blades are more controllable, and don't 'wag'. Great video, BTW!
I have a Craftsman Professional with a pivoting head that makes my life so much easier. I use it for everything, even cutting down small trees and getting rid of stumps by cutting out the roots. Such powerful and versatile tools, love them.
I purchased the DEWALT dw311k it has a 13 amp motor very powerful handy for just about any job. Great tool to be added to any shop. Really love mine had it over a year no problems. Highly recommend
Ah wow, thanks for the quick reply and advice. Will give it a go during the week. I bought a recip saw last yr but hardly used it as thought it would be hard to control and not very precise. You have changed my mind. Thank you
simple, easy to follow info for me (anyone who doesn't know a thing) about a reciprocating saw. thank you so much. i learned a few things; variable speed and others. I didn't know they had demolition blades. thank you again.
TWO MORE TIPS: 1. Different brands have different "throws". Some older models move the blade out about 1/2" per stroke and others may be over 1". That's an important consideration especially removing old pipe lines etc. 2. I will take older bent blades, cut them shorter and taper the tips for plunge cutting. I can control the cut line better and especially control the depth.
All these years, and I've never thought to considered cutting out the nails to move a stud. I'm just so quick to reach for the hammer to hit something hard. Thanks for the tip.
Wish I would have watched this video before Saturday. Had a difficult time trying to cut a counter top and love the techniques you demonstrated in regards to the plunge cut. Thanks :)
Great tips, One thing that you didn't mention that I think is worth noting is that a good battery powered reciprocating saw is great in the yard for trimming trees!
I used to do that a lot but now blade selection is so much greater that you really don't need to. If you want to try it, though, all you need to do is file off by hand or with a bench grinder a small section near one end and the blade will fit. Hold up a standard recip blade and trace it on the hacksaw blade.
I've found the DeWalt seems a little bit low-powered compared to other makes of the same size. The Makita is really good, except the shoe on the front has an adjustable feature that sometimes releases by itself. I have an 11 amp Bosch which is I love, and it also has a truss-hook on it. You showed the Milwaukee Ax blade. Those are my favourite all-purpose blade that I use the most.
+Kauwhaka It's true some of the other manufacturer's have heavier and more powerful motors. For the work I do, the ability to have the four blade configurations is much more important though. I have some other recip saws, including a Rigid model I bought once when I was out in the field and stuck for something to use quickly, but I still come back to my Dewalt. The Ax blades are great, I really work them over!
Thank you so much, your tips and tricks were very useful to me, I had one of these sitting in my car trunk for a few years, I thought it was to cut tree branches? Today I needed just such a tool to cut some 1x2's to make a small wood frame and I did not have a clue where to start. I want to make a frame and insert some chicken wire in it to stop my cats from scratching my screen doors, I want them to have fresh air too. I am 72 years young and my cousin gave me a 72 x 38 frame with the chicken wire already in it and I've been carrying it all over the house wherever the cats were and manually put the frame in front of door, it was a bit short of course but if worked, the cats happily looking outside through the chicken wire. Now I would like to make one for all my patio screen doors so you can see that I need a saw of some kind, I find it a bit heavy though but it should work if I clamp it to something like a table on my deck should work I hope. My question is measuring? Do I measure from inside the patio door opening or do I measure from the outside frame on the wall? Can I use staples to pin the chicken wire over the wood and should I double up the wood over the wire and staples to hide them so the kitties do not hurt themselves. I will check out your other videos, my husband has a problem with the kitchen faucet underneath the sink it is very loose and wobbly and he is always calling my grandson to go underneath and tighten the ring there? But it does not take long that it's wobbly again, and my husband tells me I am too rough with handling the faucet perhaps he is right but sometimes it's difficult to slowly turn the tap on I do things fast and quick as I am very busy with kitties and stuff. So thanks again for your video, I love the way you teach I will listen to this video again because I do not want to cut my fingers off. Cheers and thanks.
The shape of the business end also makes a difference. I have a portacable with the flexible shoe and I always find it getting hung up on something while I'm cutting. The dewalt however has that rounded cage that easily goes over things. I actually started with the portacable cause it had the longest blade stroke on the market at the time then after getting hung up a few times while cutting I went and bought the dewalt.
Fantastic presentation; probably the best "how to" video I've seen on RU-vid yet. Clear, concise, right on the money. Out of curiosity, what is the model of the Dewalt you are using here?
Dave Bass The DW304. It's not the most powerful or heavy-duty model out there, but it is highly flexible and reliable. I've been trying to kill this one for ten years and it won't die!
Great video. Have been doing woodworking for years but just started doing renovation of houses. VERY useful tool-just bought my first Dewalt reciprocating saw. Have you found a blade that was useful on old plasterboard walls. I had to install a new door and it was time consuming to remove the extra plasterboard (cement wall) even to the new opening size. There is suppose to be a blade that works but I am thinking a grinder of some sort. Any ideas? Thanks again for a great video.
Don Schoonover Several manufacturers make "demolition" blades that hold up fairly well to just about anything, although in any project you will go through a handful of blades.
really enjoyed this video.......one question.....do all newer sawzalls have the abilty to put the blade in sideways like you showed....that was pretty cool....thank you
Actually, no. Many of the current saws offer blade insertion in the up and down direction, but not the side to side direction. The only manufacturer that I'm sure offers the four way insertion is Dewalt. It IS a very handy feature and definitely a must for the work that I do.
Amperage rating is important and using the proper size gauge extension cord for the tool to work its best. ex. My Craftsman 6.5 amp with the best blade did ok but under continuous duty cycle on a 100 foot cord would overheat quickly. My Makita 15 A with appropriate cord and same blade set up will go all day long.
Great video and helps a lot ! Thanks. Does anyone know of a mini version of these more for precision woodworking? Would appreciate any suggestions. Hitachi makes one but seems like it may not be produced any longer. Hitachi CR10DL/L4. It would be just what I'm looking for at 0.99kg and 34.7 x 7 x 22 centimetres.
A reciprocating saw really isn't a precision tool. With experience pros like me can do some very neat tricks with the saw, but if an exacting cut is needed we turn to other tools. If you give me some idea of what you want to accomplish maybe I can make some suggestions.
It might be if he has a specific need for it. For example, is he doing remodeling projects? However, if all he has now is a drill and circular saw, I can think of other tools that might be more useful first. A jigsaw would allow him to cut curves. A random orbit sander or palm sander would allow him to finish wood smooth. An impact driver would allow him to drive screws more easily. No matter what you buy him, a new tool always makes a carpenter or woodworker happy!
great advise. I love my saw, I've cut up doors, trees and Aldsworth with it. why does it have such a long blade though, since you mostly just use half of it?
Do you find the vibration of the saw taxing and annoying? In the little I have used mine I find I dislike this part of using it. I was wondering how well you could use it to rip a board but you seemed to control it pretty well in cutting some wood off of that stud.
***** Technique has a lot to do with control of vibration. Let the saw do the work and use the saw weight to your advantage. The more you try to push or pull or wrestle with the saw the more your arms are going to absorb the vibration. Better to point the saw in the right direction and then hold on loosely. Also, whenever possible let the shoe of the saw be tight against the workpiece so that the workpiece holds the saw steady for you and the vibration goes into the work of the saw blade. Finally, the speed you choose for the blade should be matched to whatever you are cutting. Experiment at different speeds for a few seconds and you will quickly find the ideal blade speed for the workpiece.
just bought a new Ryobi cordless zipsaw when the old one's motor croaked. Was surprised that the new one cost $79 but the box did say "new and improved". Ya right I thought..... Well - it is. the blade stroke is a lot longer and cuts much faster!
This was a really useful video. So, we have a Milw. Sawzall that was a pretty nice tool but live now out in the country and need to prune a lot of problematic, thorny Hawthorne apple trees. Too dangerous to use chainsaw, and both of our arms are giving out using even the best of pruning saws. Porter Cable makes a nice pruning blade for the Sawzall but this wife had the bright idea of getting a 20v lithium operated Dewalt for which we later found no pruning blade is made. We had the saw too long to return and at this point are pretty unhappy with what it does compared to the electric. The wood is pretty dense but not more that 4 in in dia so I thought the saw should be able to handle the job. Probably missing some small piece of advice which is why you are getting this long note. :) Help, Please. Blade selection seems so limited...not same as Sawzall blade which was really a bummer. Is it just a bad tool idea for the job? What would you recommend for portability instead? Thanks so much for any advice and again for a great video.
First, all reciprocating saw blades have the same design at the base, so you can use any brand of blade in your DeWalt saw. If you find a pruning blade you like from another manufacturer it will fit your Dewalt. I generally use Milwaukee "Axe" blades in my Dewalt saws. Second, I'm not a huge fan of reciprocating saws for pruning. But, if you can't handle a chain saw or hand pruning saw and you already own the reciprocating saw you can probably make it work. Find a good pruning blade, try a slower cutting speed, and have a helper steady the branch while you cut. The most common problem with reciprocating saws is that the workpiece (or branch, in this case) moves with the blade and that prevents the blade from cutting. Pressing the saw shoe tightly against the branch while you cut should also help steady the saw.
Good advice but called DeWalt...specific blades for this saw. Not interchangeable. :( Hawthorne trees are not good with chainsaw. Too many thorns and crossing branches with small diameters to be practical. Thanks again.
Anyone who told you that is full of it. I assure you that reciprocating saw blades use an industry standard design. You said you had the DeWalt 20V lithium reciprocating saw, which means you must have a DCS367, or a DCS387 or a DCS380, all of which use regular blades. Go down to Home Cheapo or Lowes and bring along a blade that came with your saw to compare to the ones on the shelf. You'll see that the base of the blade where it inserts is identical. Or, just go buy a blade and try it. There are some jigsaw blades with competing standards (the Bosch standard and the original style) but reciprocating saw blades have always used the same standard.
Well, You just won the "Angel" award. You were absolutely right....so much for calling DeWalt. Not that the tech did not try to help, they just did not evidently know about the industry standard. We feel silly now. Just inserted the same Porter Cable Prunning blade and did what you said and bam! Branch came right off. Must have been first time user ignorance and a paradigm that battery operated tools are somehow less capable and need specialty/proprietary items. Thanks so much for pursuing the commentary and educating us. You can't imagine how much pruning needs doing here and how helpful your advice will be.
Great! All's well that ends well. I'm sure the ease of pruning will also increase with practice. As for your question about stump grinding, I wouldn't recommend a circular saw for that practice and especially not the cheap one you mentioned. It will be underpowered and possibly dangerous. Better to either rent the real thing or else try some of the chemical products you can buy which promote speedy rotting of the stumps.
I'll grab my cordless reciprocating saw if I have a handful of cuts to make, and if the work is lighter duty. If I face a whole day of demo work the corded model comes out. The batteries will not last a whole day of demo, and if you really need to push the saw you need the greater power of a corded unit.
Have you used the reciprocating saw to cut out a subfloor? I need to get in tight to the sill plate, and I can't do that with a circular saw. I don't even think a toe kick saw will get me tight to the sill plate, because I have 5/8" drywall on the walls.
brotherjoeradosti Yes, I do this sort of thing all the time. If your saw has two-way blade insertion put the blade in with the teeth facing up, if it has four way insertion put the blade in so that the saw get's closest to the edge of the cut. Use a fairly long demolition blade (not the little stubby ones) and start with a plunge cut on the edge. You may have to tilt the saw and therefore the cut at an angle to get really close. You can usually feel when you've gone through the plywood and you'll want to do a shallow cut so you don't cut the floor joists too. Let the saw do the work and it will go fairly quickly.
Yes, the saw is not really a precision tool, although with practice you can make precision cuts. There is a lot of slop in the blade, which is just a function of the design.
I have the black+decker multievo (matrix in 'murica) which is mainly a cordless 18v drill, but could be swaped for other "tips", I have the jigsaw attachment and love it, was thinking about buying the RS attachment. is that one any good? thanks im advance
+Anas Malas I have to confess I've never even heard of this tool, so I can't be of much help to you. In general, though, the old saying "jack of all trades, master of none" works for tools as well! I like dedicated tools that do one thing well.
I bought cordless DeWalt saw, and man does that thing vibrate! I'm new to this tool, so I may not be doing something right. But during short use, my vision was jumping so much I couldn't see and my hands and forearms tingled for minutes after! Any tips for reducing this crazy vibration?
+John Taylor You didn't mention what you were trying to cut, but I'll bet it has something to do with it. Obviously you're going to get some vibration with this saw no matter what. If you are getting excessive movement. though, one common issue would be a sawblade binding in the work piece. If the saw kerf is under pressure from the two pieces being created or if there is pitch or some other substance gumming up the blade or if there is weight bearing down upon the cut, then the blade stops moving for an instant and the movement is transferred back to the user. As soon as you feel this binding, stop and adjust the cut or move the work piece. If you hold the shoe firmly against the work piece this will also act to restrict the vibration to the cut rather than transfer it to the you. Trying to make a cut in the middle of the blade without the shoe touching the work piece takes some practice and experience and even then it is sometimes a poor choice of technique.
I was making practice cuts on both a 2x4 using a new Bosch blade made for wood, and then I was trying to cut through an aluminium threshold with a Bosch blade made for metal (also new). I got through both pieces eventually, but the threshold was the worst. The blade kept skipping across the top of the material before it made a decent bite into the metal and began to cut. It would vibrate enough to pull the material loose from the clamps I was using to keep it on the bench. I'm guessing this is a technique issue on my part since I've never used a recip saw before. I'm used to jigsaws which are more newbie friendly!
+John Taylor Okay, it does sound like a technique issue then. To start your cuts use the variable speed trigger to slow the saw down while you make a starting kerf, especially on metal. Then when the blade has a starting groove you can increase the speed. For metal, slow is fast! Blades will overheat if you just try to blast away at full speed. Do practice keeping the shoe against the workpiece and some slight downward pressure on the saw to keep the blade engaged. Once you get a feel for the action, you'll be able to do more advanced cutting. SInce you have the Dewalt, try flipping the blade "upside down" in the mount. You may find that position more comfortable.
+enduringcharm Thanks for the tips! If I flip the blade upside down, with the teeth pointing up, then do I hold the body of the saw upside down instead to help push the blade into the material? Or do I hold the saw normally and pull the blade up through the material? (I'm very new to power tools!)
+John Taylor Well, either is acceptable, but I meant to flip the saw and push downward. Some people (including me) just find that position more comfortable. Clamp your practice pieces to something solid and make a bunch of cuts--you'll soon get the hang of it.
I bought one of these saws to cut through thicker wood when I am pruning vines - but it is useless. I am using a wood blade. The wood is pretty tough. Am I doing something wrong?
Some manufacturers marketed reciprocating saws for pruning purposes, but it's a poor tool for the job. These saws cut with a back and forth motion and for effective cutting they depend on the workpiece being stationary. In remodeling or building, that's usually not a problem since what you are cutting is either attached to something else or big and heavy enough not to move. The branch of a tree or shrub, however, will move with the action of the saw blade. Instead of cutting through the branch, the saw blade is merely shaking the branch back and forth! You can try to minimize this by keeping the shoe of the saw touching the branch, buy using a slower speed and perhaps by having a helper hold the branch steady. But, you're probably better off with loppers or a chain saw designed for the task.
They sell pruning blades for these saws, and they work excellent. I found 9'' and 12'' at Harbor freight tools for real cheap, and they last well. You do need to hold the branch your cutting to keep it from vibrating back and forth.
This is actually one of the lighter reciprocating saws on the market! Remember to let the tool do the work, not your arms. Put it in position and let the weight of the tool work the blade. If you have to push against gravity, use your body as a brace. Put your elbow on your knee and pivot your forearm, for example. Find ways to make leverage and gravity work with you rather than against you.
HAHA! Well, practice makes perfect. Don't give the tool a death grip, hold it loosely but firmly. Pay attention to the shoe of the tool, and put the shoe up against the workpiece whenever possible. That will prevent the tool from kicking back and reduce vibration. You'll get the feel for the ideal pressure for each cut.
The weight of the saw is also dependent on the power of the motor. I bought one with a 12 amp motor. Cheaper models come with a 10 amp motor. The more powerful motor let's me cut longer without over stressing the motor and therfore I believe will last longer.
I wouldn't worry too much about longevity as long as you purchase a quality name brand tool. I have a DeWalt corded model, which is a 10 amp model, that I've been trying to kill for 15 years. Weight does play a part in selection, though. If you will be doing a lot of framing work or demolition work you might be happier with a heavier saw, since you can use the weight of the saw to assist in cuts. If you will be doing work that requires more finesse, such as remodeling and repairs, you might be happier with a lighter weight saw.
+K S You sure can, it's a common application for plumbers. It will cut easily through copper, plastic or galvanized pipe and automotive mechanics often use them to cut exhaust pipe. With metal, slow is fast. In other words, keep the tool speed lower so it doesn't overheat and damage the blade and you'll get faster cuts overall.
As though i am also a member of DISASTER RESPONSE SQUARDON OF NEPAL POLICE i like all the equipment of the field but lack of the avilable equip it has been hard to rescue
richard walsh Sometimes these are marketed for cutting small branches and such, but they are a poor choice. Are you looking to take down a small tree with a trunk diameter of 4-6 inches or so? If that's the case you'd be better off purchasing an inexpensive electric chain saw, which are lighter and easier to control than their gasoline powered cousins. Or, even a large hand held bow saw would be a better choice.
Well, THAT's a different request! I don't think there's much call for that information, but I'll give you a tip. I have actually tried cutting a tire open just out of curiosity, and they are pretty tough. Probably better just to recycle your tire.
+skydaver2 To some degree a long blade will waggle if you are just holding the saw in the air and running it. Possibly you also have additional play if your used saw was damaged or just worn out. With the saw unplugged try wiggling the arm where the blade inserts and see if there is a lot of movement.
+enduringcharm Hi, I have recently bought a Milwaukee psh 18 cordless sawzall , how much do you rate these and what blades would you recommend To cut nails and some timber? Thanks much appreciated.
I'm not familiar with that particular cordless model, but my Dewalt cordless recip saw can do almost anything my corded model can do. The batteries will run down if you work them hard, and you aren't going to grind out a heavy cut with a cordless like you can a corded saw. For blades, it may depend on what's available in your area. I've had excellent luck with Milwaukee's Ax series of blades. They make one designed for mixed use of wood and nails.
Milwaukee makes some decent tools. Their reciprocating saws are favored by those who value weight and power over finesse and flexibility. It really depends on what kind of work you do as to which brand or model is superior. For me, the Dewalt's light weight and ability to mount the blade in four directions is paramount.
Ruth S I see what you were seeing--the light from a window was reflecting off the edges of the cabinet grade plywood and it did look a little like wallboard. Maybe I should upgrade my camera!
