Hey Jake. I have an idea about some future video. All about strings, how to make one, strands, twists, length, materials. I'm curious about your tips and tricks on that topic.
I completely agree with this. I brought beginner gear starting out, in part cause I wasnt sure I would stick with it. I then went from that to the top-end stuff slowly one at a time.
At one shoot that I went to I was hanging around the booths looking at all the new toys and saw a guy by the latest and greatest stabilizer on the market. I congratulated him on his new purchase and then I asked him by the way what are you gonna do with your old stabilizer and before it was over with I had walked away with his whole system v bars and weights and everything for 75 bucks
Agree 100 %. One thing I'd like to add when it comes to risers, is that if you're on a limited budget, it's always better to get a used one than to buy a brand new "beginners" riser for the same amount of money. Like you said, a good riser will never wear out and the improvements from generation to generation are marginal. A solid, machined riser from a reputable maker, even though it may be ten, fifteen or even twenty years old will always outperform a brand new budget riser for the same amount of money spent.
@@abacusgeek7903 Loving my Matrix, the Nexus's predecessor, as well. Those mid-2000s Hoyts now sometimes sell for less than $100. Crazy amounts of bow for the money.
@@dick-gs9tb on the other hand I bought a new Hoyt Alero (reasonable mid price range), far as I can tell it's an Epik without the vertu clicker or the complicated limb pockets and a cheap but excellent grip. I love it. Plus it looks even better imo
2:44 "There really isn't a whole that changes from year to year." So true. The riser I have is a model from nearly 5 years ago (Gillo G1) and I prefer it more than even the new one (GT).
I also use a saying 'you buy cheap, you buy twice' (not for everything ofc lol). I fully regret buying one of those Avalon Tec One sights, everything on it just wants to come loose and rattles alot 😞
"buy once, cry once". Love the sound of that. I usually hear about getting the best riser you can afford but here we get a list of investments that lasts you a long time. Most of the archers at my range think Carbon Ones are entering the high-end territory. x10's and AC-series for national level athletes.
Basically agree. Some equipments which stay longer is worth spending a bit more on. Like in photography. Spend money on good lenses. Those survive the bodies in case of DSLR for example.
My wife and I have an agreement. I can spend half as much on my archery equipment as she spends on her knitting stuff. My solid silver riser is a bit heavy, but its AWESOME.
@@agnostic47 In my house, its why she needed to buy 20 balls of blue yarn; "but its such a pretty blue and its the last ones they have in that dye lot..." She thought she had me when I went from .246 to .166 arrows.
I did end up buying some 32lbs limbs for 240 euro, expecting them to last a while, but it's two months later, and I'm already ready for 38s. Luckily they weren't tooo expensive, but I do wish I had bought the cheapest limbs again.
When I started archery I was looking for equipment on eBay and one think I saw was old equipment from the 80s. They used to have a 2 long rod setup sticking out forward. One above and one below the arrow. Do you know why that was moved away from and do you think someone could still use that type of setup. I quite like how it looks
I will ask you for a challenge. 1 you can shoot all day and practice unlike most archers .practice makes perfect ? .2 build a samick Polaris long rods v bars sight and plunder all on the cheap side of the market , against a top end bow with top end equipment but you only use jazz at 70 metres it will be interesting to see how well you can tune the equipment.
right now, for me it's the arrow rest.....I shoot 3 under. The wire just won't hold position on the budget wrap-around rests.....the spigarelli zt is forever sold out. I bought an Old PSE riser on ebay for $350......then I bought a brand new Topoint Unison riser for $230. I'm ready to part with the Topoint because I shoot much better groups with the PSE.
I have upgraded a year ago. Bought a completely new recurve. High-end everything to cry once (as you said). On my last bow, I bought multiple times a different sight, but in my opinion....buy a good one at the beginning of your archery career. It saves you a lot of money (believe me :P) Of course....if you just start shooting, you probably would look if this sport is something for you and don't want to buy an expensive bow. Then try a club bow for a few months and if you decide to stay shooting, you definitely buy a good quality bow. Buy once, cry once is in this case the best option. I know now after spending to much money at the beginning and upgrading my first bow with the small cheap things over and over again. Too bad, I did not see this video when I started archery.
It seems to me, as a club archer shooting 200-300 arrows a week, that a mid range riser from a good company would be acceptable since it will never get the kind of punishment in terms of arrow volume that a professional would give it. And I'm guessing that one of the things you're paying for at the top end is that level of robustness. Great video by the way.
Mock Nugget don’t think so. Miss upper 20% from 30”... I think it will become a x10-pencil. Making a bolt for crossbow, but those are illegal here in Japan.
Im 13 and i shot wooden bow like on the left one i do competition with it but only national in my country the class is called standard bow i hope ill be getting on recurve in about 3 years
As to stabilizers I built my own out of fishing rod and used it while competing my first year. Shortened it and its now on my hunting bow. Liked the video riser with ilf is why I bought my latest so I can use many different ilf limbs to find what I like best.
Hi Jake. I’ve been a follower of your great videos and I respect your opinions. I’m now in the process of upgrading my riser. I now have a WNS FX 25 riser. Do I need an upgrade? High end brands ( HOYTS etc) are very pricey in my country. I’ve come across two affordable China made high end risers: Sanlida x 10 riser and Topoint Unison riser. Would you recommend any of these? Or will I stick to my WNS MOTIVE FX25 which is labeled as an intermediate riser?
I doubt this applies to anybody invested enough to be watching this video, but know what you're buying. It pains me when people come to my local free archery range with a cheap bow they bought that is way too small for them. I want them to enjoy shooting, but there is no way they are going to when the bow cant even be drawn back to their face.
Pretty much exactly what I bought haha. What's interesting I found was that I love the cartel 306 tab, which is cordovan but extremely cheap, so if my tab wears out or I want a couple spare I don't need to worry about spending a lot on replacements. Also finger tabs can be really personal so expensive ones may not fit you that well either
Unfortunately from my own observations, most archers only consider "you can't buy points" when buying equipment because of their strict adherence to "it's the archer not the equipment" mantra, and they often use that as justification to invest least by buying the cheapest and slay those who spend more than them. Instead only 0.01% make "buy once cry once" as the cornerstone of their equipment build.
I just purchased 3 vintage Chck-it archery target sights for less than $75.00 each, Chck-it was the sight every target archer had in the 1970's/80's. I also got 2 Easton X-7 target Stabilizer for $30.00 on eBay, I'm 64 so I'm "vintage" myself and understand the old stuff and they are good enough.
did a lot of looking for budget practice arrows and decided on Pandarus Champions. 5.88 (.23") OD, .001 straightness, 400 spline. $80/dozen Looking forward to trying them. Thanks for the sounds advise.
I want to get into bare bow. And I like your idea of buy once, cry once. But I do not understand a plunger button. Do you already have a video on a plunger or can you do one?
It would seem I did pretty good with my set up, I did get a cheap sight but honestly I dont regret it to much cuz I think I'll get a nicer one and have one for indoor and one for outdoor so I don't have to readjust everything every time I switch and I tend to like the clickers that mount to the sight bar so I don't have to cut all my arrows down, probably won't matter so much in the future but I'm only a couple months in and it's not bad to be able to switch arrows out without worrying about length
Thank you for this video as myself just started in archery and I was starting to look for my very own gear. For now I'm sticking to barebow and was looking for a riser. I decided to invest more and take an ILF barebow riser instead of a traditional takedown, probably the Gillo G2. That being said I was wondering if I should push it even further and cry a bit more and go for the Gillo G1 instead?
I’ve shot a few times with rented equipment and am considering buying. I don’t plan to hunt or compete, but this way I can have my own equipment and improve for my own casual enjoyment. One obstacle is that I’m visually impaired. Thus, I will need a magnifying scope for even relatively close range. Any recommendations for quality scopes at reasonable prices?
I love the videos man. Best BowTubeer on the platform by far. Not up their own ass and condescendingly saying the most obvious things and actually giving useful advice, unlike other creators on the platform (cough cough NuSensei cough cough)
Jake, this is great stuff. Keep it up. Nice to see you mastered the lapel mic. The audio was tops. Question for you. You talk of the lan one and lan two but I’m having great difficulty in keeping my draw shoulder down as I used to be a benchrest marksman. I see a target and my right shoulder comes up. Any advice for keeping that draw shoulder down and in place?
Hi Jake, great video again. I got my Hoyt Radian riser, Beiter plunger and AGF Safari sight in1995 shot it for 10 years. After a break of 7-8 years I started shooting again. Same riser, same plunger, same sight and never hade issues. When I went up in poundage I bought second hand older top of the range limbs. I`m looking forward on a vidoeo about arrwos. In my opinion X10 are the most durable and accurate arrwos I ever shot. However, I think they are highly overpriced. Now I´m going on a much cheaper pure carbon shaft, the skylon paragon but I thing they will not be as durable and longlastign as the X10.
I have heard that Americans have a thing against horse meat. Do Americans have any reservations against using other products made out of horses, like horsehide tabs?
Cordovan tab is money well spent, I think. I bought my current tab with cowhide, since the shop I bought it from didn’t have cordovan versions in the shelf at the time. It was shot after about 10k shots, so I had to replace the leather, and I bought cordovan version of it. Now after about 10k shots, the cordovan is as good as new (and it doesn’t shift the group to right, as the cowhide did as it got softer). Amazing difference.
One of the problems with what you say about spending money wisely is arrow selection. I have spent money on arrows based purely on my draw-length and these arrows, according to coaches at my club had the wrong spline for my bow. Even if I check the arrow section chart at Easton I am still confused, what is more important draw-length or bow-weight. I know my draw-length and bow-weight but still trying to select the 'perfect' arrow is really confusing, for example my draw length is is 26,25" I go to the Easton section chart and it states certain arrow types, if I then choose one of those arrows and go to buy it the length comes out at 27". Should I buy the 27" and use that or should I shorten it to 26,25 which would effectively alter the spline.
Draw length is important to determine your draw weight at full draw. What is your limb weight? The Easton chart is comparing your ARROW length(not Draw length) and draw weight at full draw(not limb weight). I would get your arrows cut 1-1.5" longer than your draw length so you have some room for expansion/stiffening them if needed. At your draw length you should take 3-4lb off your bow weight, then go down the 27-28" arrow length collumn to your draw weight to find which arrow spine group you need. E.g at 34lb draw weight with 28" arrows you would need arrow spine group T4 , 1913 XX75's, 680-750 ACC's, 720 ACE's etc.
Jake, have you thought about creating a discussion group perhaps on FB or something else? Would be nice to be able to discuss things other than through video comments...just a thought.
Hi Jake, Just getting into archery. Do you have any videos on beginner recurve bows? any brands to avoid wasting money on until I really get into things?
Thanks for videos. I really use some of your concepts and I hope that it will help me to become more consistent. I would like to see a video about contributing and grabbing a bowstring. (sorry for misstakes, if they are there. I'm not so good with my english)
Yeah, the rattling and pieces coming loose is very annoying I was watching the Olympic games and everyone was using these fancy ones with the small holes and ball to avoid rattling, will certainly be a good upgrade from my Cartel sight which is a great sight, but has been rattling a bit too much lately
Hello Jake! A question about limbs for an already adult person: I'm 27 and doing archery for more than a year at the moment. I've already accomplished some local tournaments in top-3 I've been very comfortable with my setup (#40 limbs, 29.5" draw with 68" bow), but I'd like to go a bit higher on draw weight (something around #44 would do) and swap my limbs (WNS Motive F5 which are fiberglass/foam) to more premium materials like carbon for example, since, in my understanding, it draws easier, more comfortable to hold and a bit faster. So I'd like to know your opinion on should the adult archer get better limbs since he won't be physically growing as a youth shooter.
I just moved up from loaner WNS limbs to new WIAWIS CX7, there wasn’t a huge change. I wouldn’t recommend it since you’ll probably be disappointed. Feels nice to pull back but you’ll get used to it quickly and then it’s just normal. If you really want it, go for it, but if you are unsure, probably not worth it. 🤷🏻♂️
@@goodyKoeln idk, I feel that I just need a bit more speed, since I'm not sure if I can hit 50 meters consistently with it. Since I'm using wide 5/16" shafts, i probably should try thinner and lighter arrows before committing to buy a new set of limbs
@Кирилл Филиппенко I‘m at 44# on the fingers, I use CarbonOne Arrows and 50m isn’t a problem to ‚reach‘ it‘s more my problem of being a crappy archer why I don’t hit gold all the time. 😉
@@kirillf.8053 if you want arrow speed, uukha limbs are great. But they're pretty pricey which is a bit against what the video recommends... Personally I'm biased towards them since they're what I shoot :P
