Alot of the lines you took were so technical I would have never guessed it would make it. And it made it every time. So good I had to watch twice.... so far. Great job all around.
Thank you, creativity keeps the mind sharp. At the time of the making, I was furloughed due to the pandemic. I had more time than money, and the lack of aftermarket support lead me to innovate the platform.
Absolutely killin it with the mods man love um... I am getting one soon and have been studying crawlers and bouncers and by far you have exceeded my wildest imaginations with your Danchee bro!!! Nice darn work my friend. You made up my mind for me. LOW COST!!! HIGH PERFORMACE!!! gotta have it. Peace yall
Thank you so much for the kind words, I'm doing this not fot the fame but for the other ridgerock owners out there. Still have some more mods to do, stay tuned. Check out the forum here. www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/613729-danchee-ridgerock.html m.facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/?ref=group_browse
Thank you, Crawling is like a game of chess, one more will affect the next. The rocks should contact the tires first, not the axles. Just watch and learn the way the truck suspension reacts to different situations. Check out the Face Book group, it's a great bunch of guys/girls. facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471
With a few simple mods it will perform well. I was initially disappointed with the performance, so I made changes. Rear steer makes the truck, you have to drive it differently to take advantage. Tires are one of the most important things, WD 40 helps soften the tire compound and removing the foams helps with traction. If you haven't already joined the FB group. facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/?ref=share
I now know the 1st few mod ill be doing to my sons ftx ravines. (There the same) You got a sub from me. Will be good to see how ans what you do to next. Keep rolling buddy.
Thank you for watching, have fun with the crawlers and sons. Check out RC crawler forum if you haven't already. www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/613729-danchee-ridgerock.html
I am the proud new owner of the famous Danchee finally after much research. TIME To MOD... FRED style. Out of the box its nice and all, but ive got to release the inner crawler beast Fred has descovered. See yall high on the ridge.
Thank you, you put a smile on my face today. Have fun with your new Ridge Rock. I seem to spend more time making changes than actually driving it (especially in the bad winter weather).
@@freedomtobefred8233 I kept the servo savers on for now to prevent him from breaking other parts. But the internal friction of the servo savers is so high, that they do not return to center. We'll probably be ditching them for the standard servo horns.
@@benbekemeier5545 Working on the next video. One thing to keep in mind is that the radio does not have end point adjustment to limit servo travel. The steering linkage and the hubs will flex and possible break without servo limits.
Saludos desde Costa Rica Wahooo Tienes un Danchee hermoso Me encantó la tracción que le as logrado adquirir con esas modificaciones Espero algún día lo traigas a Costa Rica, estoy con un proyecto de montaña, preparando zonas para Camping, Senderos y Crawler. Tu y Tu Danchee están cordialmente invitados a visitarnos cuando ya tenga todo preparado. Buenas Vibras y Bendiciones
@@freedomtobefred8233 Gracias por Tu amable respuesta Claro que si, esperamos en algún momento contar con Tu grata compañía por nuestras tierras latinas Mientras tanto acá seguuremos trabajando por incrementar este hermoso y saludable deporte del Crawler Muchas Gracias por todo Tu contenido Me a servido de mucho Tus consejos Saludos y Bendiciones Buen Hombre
Foam removal has the same effect of adding otherwise innecessary weight. Wheels are nice but intended for heavier trucks and the Danchee is pretty light.
Foam removal is similar to added weight, but they can accomplish different goals. No foams increase the tires contact patch. But you don't have much control In how much tire deformation you get on some up/side hills with vented wheels. With added weight to the wheels, you can control the front rear bias, the contact patch, and the foams still support the tires deformation and side hilling support. the downside is a loss of wheel speed, The truck did well with the added weight, I have since changed out the wheels for more wheel speed (my preference).
@@freedomtobefred8233 yes it is very helpful. I picked up a Ridgerock last month and I'm hooked. I can't look at it without thinking of the next mod lol
Thank you, looking to keep it performance oriented. If you haven't already check out the FB group facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/permalink/1674754492697174/?comment_id=1674781656027791&reply_comment_id=1675197342652889
Thank for the compliment, here are a couple of resources. www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/613729-danchee-ridgerock.html m.facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/?multi_permalinks=1647337412105549%2C1646925535480070%2C1646878225484801%2C1646877625484861%2C1646871922152098¬if_t=group_activity¬if_id=1611185152121610&ref=m_notif
No pinions have been stripped in the making of these videos. I bought these and haven't used one yet (still on the stock set). Maybe I'm not driving right :^D www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Metal-Gear-spindle-Copper-gear-8-teeth-2mm-id-0-5-Modulus-DIY-motor-/322972412550?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&fbclid=IwAR0iuDZLzhLh1cHXMkpitPUsZS9_JLPZandPRoITScE8P8FWfRxy01WnTdg
Thank you very much for the video! this is the only crawler that calls my attention to get started! Do you recommend it widely? (the price catches my attention) how about the quality of redcat in terms of stock electronic wing, servos, esc ... is it true that it has 2 motors? what are the pros and cons of this car? Can the servos be replaced with better quality ones? servos and esc are hexfly? Cheers!
The crawler has a motor on each axle, total of two. I didn't get a charger (bought used). The servos are ok, they can be upgraded if you chose. The electronics/battery are totally fine to start out. In my case the steering linkage and 25kg servos have more travel than stock. I am looking to get a new radio with end point adjustments to limit servo travel. The pros are performance and price. It is the cheapest 1/10 scale that performs. The cons are no real upgrades, just replacement parts. There are some things you can do to make it better for free/ or cheap. Rc crawling is like a game of chess, one move will determine the next. Overall it is a great buy to get started or if funds are limited. Check out the rc crawler forum www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-crawlers/613729-danchee-ridgerock.html
Hello beautiful car, I have a small channel and I have a little of everything today I bought this, I have seen some advice to remove the foam, plumb the front axle or plumb the wheels any help thanks and I have subscribed.
Most start with better tires, weight on the axle or wheels, and better steering. Some stiffen the factory linkage with stiff wire, like a coat hanger and glue it in the channel or replace the linkage and add a new servo (20-25 kg are popular). Check out the facebook group here... facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471
I bought an MN-99 rtr crawler because I have too many rc’s as it is. I want something bigger though and it must be affordable and upgradable! Would you get a ridge rock or an Everest 10? Thanks for your feedback! Awesome work, nice vid, new subscriber!
The Everest 10 has more after market parts. ANY crawler you buy will cause you to spend money. Tires, servos. weights etc, just keep it in mind. The ridge rock is fun because you limited by the things you can upgrade, which also keeps the cost lower.
Why cant you use all the holes on the shock tower without flipping the shocks. If i didnt want to flip the shocks what holes shoukd i use on the shock tower to lower my stance
I've made many changes since that video ( see my other videos), check out the Facebook group here. facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471 A guide to help others with upgrades and mods. facebook.com/notes/redcat-racing-danchee-ridgerock/ridge-rock-upgradesmodifications/491431335412950/
What am I missing? I would think that you really only need to use the behind mode button once when you first start using nothing to bind it to the car or maybe very rarely if you go places where other people are using other cars. But since you took the time and effort to relocate it to a quickly accessible place, it makes me think I'm missing something. Does that do something that I'm not aware of? (Something beyond just linking the radio to the car?) What is the benefit of having that quickly and easily accessible?
Good day, do you think you can do a video on how you made that above the axel steering linkage? I'm trying to get my danchee to perform like yours 🤲🤲🤲 I've watched this video only a about 150 times per day to get all the details. Lol Much respect. Keep up the good work!
The steering linkage is based off of the stock outline of the linkage, as you saw in the video I went through three versions to get to this one. This linkage isn't the best geometry for the servo. The servo linkage should be parallel to the the other linkage. I didn't have the room for the servo horn to fit the regular way so I mounted it the way shown (pointing up). This causes the servo to work harder, at the 1-2 o'clock position the servo actually doesn't move the tires, it just lifts up on the steering linkage because of the arc of the servo horn. Every thing has to be tight to eliminate slop, but that also stresses the servo to over come binding of the the tighter screws at the steering hubs. Yes it does work but it's not ideal. SPOILER ALERT. I am going to be changing the steer linkage for this reason and because of the the drive cups and the threaded axles, causing the wheel "wobble". I have parts coming in to replace the hubs and axles from this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yZtB-RtJ-Ws.html As for the linkage, the new hubs have the steering arm offset (from what I can tell). I "should" be able to have an above the axle setup, but I am going to change the servo horn (pointing down like stock) to have two steering links from center out to each hub. I just have to get the parts in and see how I can make it work. If you still want to chat about the linkage FB would be a better place. Fred W facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/?multi_permalinks=1679496375556319
@@freedomtobefred8233 ah I see, understood.i do have an upgraded linkage but yours looks better. Just thought I'd ask. I don't have a FB, but I'd still like to ask questions if I may through here though. Still waiting on my oil to come in the mail for my shocks.
Your going to need either 1/8" thick x 1 1/4" wide by two foot long aluminum or steel bar. On a piece of paper use a pencil and put two dots 161mm apart, draw a light line between the two dots. From the left dot measure 43mm, make a light perpendicular line to the first line. measure 20mm towards you and make another dot. the Dots are the 1/8" holes you will have to drill. Using the stock linkage as a rough template will give you the inner angles (the part that is closest to the axle housing). The outer (front of the linkage) doesn't matter as much. I used steel as it is cheap and adds weight to the rig. My linkages were 1.5oz each. Once you have the paper steering linkage, cut it out and use a sharpie to trace the outline onto your material. I used a right angle grinder to get close to the shape I wanted and then used a bench grinder to finish the shape. A wire wheel on the other side of the grinder deburred the steel edges. Lay the paper linkage onto the metal linkage to mark your holes with a center punch. Drill the out two outer holes with caution (they set the toe in/out). I used a 1/8" cobalt drill bit for the steel. I did coat the linkage for rust resistance, but you could also paint it.
On severe wheel compression or droop there was no noticeable bump steer? Tie rod and drag link miss alingnment will cause it every time in my experience.
I limited the shock travel, and the steering linkage are not flexing. With mods there is no perceivable bump steer. Later I did change out the steering linkage for something with better linkage geometry.
I thought this video was excellent . I just bought this danchee ridgerock crawler . And it has not arrived yet . The mods you made are incredibly cool . And looks like it works great . I looked in your links to find this stuff but nothing was there . I was hoping maybe you could go into more on how you made each of the mods . You are very creative and a talented builder. I really like the above axle linkage. Did you find those somewhere online or did you have some flat stock and made them yourself? Please get back to me if you can . Thank you sir . I'm Tim and live in Vegas.
Thank you Tim, the above the axle linkage, radio button mod and the weight in the axle was my ideas. Spoiler alert, I have changed the steering linkage to something different. We could talk off line on FB if you want. There is a group on FB, m.facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/?ref=group_browse
@@freedomtobefred8233 nice to hear from you Fred . I was just watching some more of your videos . I seen you had to change it . You are really good at driving. I was watching some videos on servos too . And I was wondering if you like the servo you chose? The hexfly 25kg . Also what is a good soft tire that fits the stock rims ? And lol I know I ask a lot of questions. But how long of run time are you getting from that 1000 mAh battery? I see most guys are running a much bigger battery like 5200 mAh . I'm guessing you did not want to have the weight up high . I was wondering about the wheel wobble too and you said you JB welded something that could not be seen . Was that to fix the wobble ? You mentioned local 525 . I'm not sure if that has anything to do with me being in Vegas and a 40 year retired member of local 525 plumbers & pipefitters . I'm 63 now and spend all my time with grandkids lol . I don't do Facebook. But this works for me . Thanks for getting back to me . Much respect sir.
@@think2cre81 The 25kg is stronger than stock but the esc doesn't provide the needed voltage to reach the full potential of the servo. The tires are need to be designed for the rocks you crawl and your driving style, Some do well on varies rocks some don't. Start off with the stock tire to get a feel, Proline Hyrax 2.2" are a good tire for varies rocks. I am running a small battery as it is nearly the same size as stock and has a lower center of Gravity. I really don't keep track of run time but it's about 20-30 minutes with my style, I'm guessing. The bigger battery will give you longer run time. I usually don't have that much time at once to go out and crawl anyway. I have the stock battery (changed connector) and the two 1000mah batteries which is more than plenty for me. The wheel wobble mostly comes from the drive cup not molded correctly ( have recently changed that). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yZtB-RtJ-Ws.html I hope this helped, the next Ridge rock video will show the new hubs and linkages and another surprise upgrade.
The steering linkage is based off of the stock outline of the linkage, as you saw in the video I went through three versions to get to this one. This linkage isn't the best geometry for the servo. The servo linkage should be parallel to the the other linkage. I didn't have the room for the servo horn to fit the regular way so I mounted it the way shown (pointing up). This causes the servo to work harder, at the 1-2 o'clock position the servo actually doesn't move the tires, it just lifts up on the steering linkage because of the arc of the servo horn. Every thing has to be tight to eliminate slop, but that also stresses the servo to over come binding of the the tighter screws at the steering hubs. Yes it does work but it's not ideal.
For the most effective weight, it would truly help your rig. RC Crawl man, I'm a small company of me. Patented by me. It's the best performance upgrade for the money
2s Lipo with at least 60 amp continuous discharge, some people have used 3s lipos in the Danchee (unoffically). If you look at the stall current of the 2 motors ( about 20-25 amps each) and two upgraded servos (about 5 amps each). That is about 50-60 amps max, It is highly unlikely that you could stall every thing at the same time. I say continuous discharge because it will not stress the battery as much as if 60 amps was the max discharge rate of the battery (headroom and more punch power). Change out the esc connector to the new battery connector type (much better quality). The more milli amps (mah) the longer the run time of the battery. I wanted some thing similar as the stock in physical size, for low weight and low center of gravity. Keep in mind that the cutoff voltage is different for lipo than li ion, so change batteries when it slows down. I found a 1000mah 75c continuous discharge 2s lipo battery, that matches the Hobby Wing 1080 esc connector that would be put in later. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphene-1000mah-2s-75c-lipo-pack-w-xt60.html?countrycode=US&gclid=CjwKCAjwj6SEBhAOEiwAvFRuKKsQXoWmqTkfzfhqbartL-FhfAQcDtjbaKttGSizFmpvRjNTH_MdLxoCoPEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Does the weight help with the wheel base? It seems like it held ground really well. Also I found that the volcano redcat rc has aluminum drive cups that work if you would prefer to run those than jb weld. The steering knuckles also might help with your binding situation im not sure how they would line up with the servo unless you shim the servo to change the angle
It capable in the stock form, it compares to some more expensive crawlers in abilities. I made changes to suit my terrain/rocks, and driving style. It is the best value for the money in 1/10 scale crawlers.
I purchased one for really cheap, but turns out one of the front wheels axle is missing parts. The cup that connects the axle to the wheel hub is out of stock, is there a chance you know if there are some parts I could use instead of OEM ones?
See this video, I got my stuff from aliexpress. The bearings, drive cups and knuckles for less than $15, not including the small hardware. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yZtB-RtJ-Ws.html
I JB Welded the wheel shaft outdrive cups R5610 to the threaded wheel axle R5618. Once dry I slipped in the wheel shaft pins R5626 and retaining collar. If I need to replace the outdrive cups I'll just melt them off. I dont think the threaded wheel axles would fail before the drive cups. I did this to help eliminate any play between the two parts. It's not nessessary but I did it anyway.
Check out this FB post, I will hold off doing this as long as possible because it took a lot of time to make my steering linkage. From what he told me, the steering linkage will need to be shorten, washers are needed to shim the knuckles and there is backlash between the drive cups and part # R5619 axle Shaft Pins. facebook.com/groups/1585154864990471/permalink/1650591835113440/?comment_id=1650596325112991&reply_comment_id=1650605388445418
Good day, i did spring mod. Danchee looks ready! However this morning I woke up super excited to do the test run. I must of still been half asleep because when I went to connect my battery, i plugged it in vise versa and partially fried half of the tamiya connecter from the black side. I tried to reconnect it the correct way after the incident happened but still had no power. I placed an order on some new tamiya connecters. But am worried about the danchee. Do you think i fried my ESC or any other components? I feel so dumd right now.
Sad to say, you might have fried the esc/rx combo, I changed out my connectors when they fell apart with xt60's. Ebay has it for $27-29 for the replacement unit or you would have to upgrade the radio and esc.
@@freedomtobefred8233 sigh, im hoping nothing else burnt. From what i could see only the connector melted off from the ground side. I didn't actually hit the power on botton. Hope that makes a difference. Fingers crossed, I'll have to check. What radio and esc would you suggest for me to buy? Just in case i do need it.
I don't know what you are comfortable with spending since the truck only cost $120. Price to value ratio a HobbyWing QUICRUN 1080 esc is a good buy, they do have the Hobby Wing QUICRUN 880 for dual motors. For a radio you would want something with EPA, Expo's and model memories (for future vehicles). The radio is difficult because of the third channel steering, not many cheap radios can do what the stock radio can with one button. That was what my problem too when I upgraded. Most cheap pistol grip radios have knobs or switches for channel 3 or more. The low cost options are flysky FS GT3B/C with a hack, Radiolink rc6gs either a knob or three way switch (I tried this one), flysky gt5 using a menu. For me I wanted total proportional control without limits, that is why I chose a stick radio (about $50). I can go from a crab to front/rear opposite with moving one stick. Steering the front or rear independently from each other helps. It is hard relearning to drive though. There are radios that have the 4 wheel steering function but are more costly. If you could deal with it (menu), the flysky gt5 is the closest cheap pistol radio that can do 4 wheel steering. Maybe someone else could recommend a radio. The other video for the electronics upgrade. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-28hEW7V2FJE.html
The new lower links and the steering links are brakeline, allthread 8/32 and traxxas 5347 ends. All custom made for this truck. Here is a more recent update on the steering linkage. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5jevFIVU30E.html
The shock length is at 95mm center to center at ride height. My shocks are setup weird with 30wt oil, a pen spring under the piston and a limiter on the outside of the shock shaft. I get a tire height in flex about 4.75". I could probably set it up better/different, but I like the feel. I am going to change it in a few months. Just experiment with your setup, I like a performance setup (low CG). Every one has their preference on what they like, I wanted to share mine with every one.
@@freedomtobefred8233 I also noticed you flipped your shocks am I correct? Heavy side down? I just got my danchee. Without any additional parts, I am not able to flip them because the bushels don't fit and am afraid to pull them out and put them on the other end in fear of causing damage to them or the hole's they are in. Suggestions?
DIy 1/4" auto brakeline, allthread 8/32" and revo ends 5347. They are hand bent around a socket and trimmed to length, JB weld holds the allthread inside.
It was 75 grams in the front using the metal rings but now it's on the axle instead. Less rotational weight, for more wheel speed. No weight is inside the wheel.
