dude people are sleeping on your channel. Thanks so much for all your videos. I love them! I just bought the Danchee RidgeRock tonight. It will come in next week. I'm so excited to share this with my girls and have fun. Back in the day I owned a Tamiya Hornet and an RC 10. Got out of it for many years but wanted to try a rock crawler. And saw this one and felt like it's almost too good to be true. But after your videos I hit the purchase button. It's a good investment for me for the price I feel. Again thanks for the videos. I can't wait for the next ones.
All my tire testing is being done with my AX10 due to my RR being down for a clod stall upgrade. the AX10 is light just like the RR so the test should be valid, plus i am using RR rims for the 2.2`s for simulation of the RR. So watch the tire test series with the 1.9`s and 2.2`s. Thank you for the comment I hope this helps.
@@twain772 seems like the 1x9 does better at crawling rocks than the 2.2. Maybe some day I'll be able to afford $300-$400 for a better crawler, just not today.
@@Mark-qv4bn The good news for you is you dont have to spend 400.00 bucks on a crawler to have a good crawler. You can get a used one on ebay for a lower price. my first crawler was a used SCX10 for 200.00 bucks and I still have it.
Regarding the test itself, which it seems didn't get any comments, it seemed to me that the stock tires did just as well as the other tires, and even better than two that you had to use extra throttle on. Based on your test, I can't see any reason to upgrade at all. Maybe some of the additional weight ideas will make a "noticeable" difference. Anyway, thanks for doing the test. I was about to pull the trigger on new tires but maybe I'll hold off on that upgrade for now.
I have this truck and the same issues. To dang light. I switched to 2 s lipo 50c. battery weight helped some. Next step is to add wheel weight and remove foam. Even going to test the WD40 on tires over night to soften them up.
If you watch my swimming video I mention having weights in my axles. I use 6 1/4OZ weights in each axle to add weight to the vehicle and it could still swim with the deep woods tires on it.
Hello! Do you use wheel hex extensions with the bigger tires? I have 150mm very grippy ones that look amazing on the ftx ravine but with the extensions the wheels keep unbolting, even with some teflon tape on the axle thread...Without extensions it works but they rub the body and links too much...
have you had issues with gears in the axle breaking or hubs and cups breaking more after switching to 3s? I have some 3s on the way for my danchee... i just want to know if i should be ordering gears or anything to replace if things start breaking. I know a lot of it depends on how you drive it. I dont bash or drop my ridgerock, or try and climb ridiculous places really. I plan on using it specifically for its ability to maneuver in wooded terrain for making FPV videos.
I havnt had issues with things breaking on me yet. I did break a gear but it was my fault cuz i had the wheel pinched in a spot and i didnt practice good driving and just tried to throttle out of it. since then I havnt broken anything.
I would get a set of hubs and cups if upgrading to 3s. It didnt take long after adding that extra weight. I like the 3s though, only charge it once a week and drive 20-30 min a day lol
I lowered mine in the back a little, and run 1x9 rims and branded mud terrains much smaller and skinner. I crawl rocks mainly, nothing has ever broken, used allot. Painted mine 4 coats of real desert camo paint, needs nothing else I think.
No, you do not have to change anything else if you go lipo, you should however get a low voltage cutoff alarm since the stock ESC doesnt have low voltage cutoff for lipos, this will save your lipo batteries and possibly your vehicle from bursting into flames.
This video shows one of the big flaws of the Danchee setup. The ESC is not strong enough to power the rear wheels on difficult ascents or difficult spots. The majority of the work is being done by the front. Unfortunately solving that would be getting a new ESC, but you potentially risk not having all the functions that you do currently on your Receiver or it being an expensive to fix it. I'm curious of your thoughts or what people have done to solve this issue on the Danchee.
I myself have gone with the HW880 which is a 2 motor ESC that can handle up to 4S. Some people out there go with running 2 single motor ESC`s like the HW1080 but that is 80 bucks that you are putting into a 100 dollar crawler. Once you change the esc you will have to change the radio gear also, this is where things get hairy. I went with the clawback radio system for mine for now so i can have all the servo controls for the rear steer and such. My RR has gone through some serious changes over time and I need to tack it out to do some testing. I hope this helped you out. The number one thing to make this a better crawler is tires get a good set of sticky tires and that will help out a lot, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XXQGD62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 these tires are a good set of sticky knock offs so they wont break the bank.
When running MOA trucks they suffer from something called clod stall. Clod stall is when the load of the truck is on the test tires and that causes the battery juice to go to the front since there is not as much of a load. Very similar to a floating diff on a car.
