I explain the differential setup, shimming properly, and using quality differential oils. I will do another video on just oils and lubes to explain what they do and what you can expect from changing them.
Thank you so much! I just put my 8th rear diff in after having the truck 7 months. I could have bought a xmaxx with the cost of the diffs haha. I did what you advised and hopefully this one will last much longer!! I'm all stock and 4s😎
@@ragercrepair9301 yea I agree.. I do the same in my videos.. no need to say wat happened during my day or wat upgrades I did if I’m making a fix it video!!
@ragercrepair9301 I’m building Xmaxx diffs right now. Another thing I’m looking at is shimming the output/sun gear-(the ones that mesh with your spider gears) On the ex Max, you will have a potential issue with little to no clearance between your outdrive cups and the differential housing if you’re not shimming correctly .
Haha I kinda wondered. I remember someone had talked about it but I really wnated to explain in full detail so others who didn't know what we were talking about, could see exactly how to put it together and what shim to install. So hopefully the advice can reach those that need it.
Just want to add those diffs have the junk metal spider gears. The new ones I just bough have steel spiders. Way better for performance and the Ring and pinion mesh didn’t need shims. The spiders did need only 1 small washer and were perfect!!! Thanks for the vids!!
If it's front wheels spinning and rear wheels not spinning its most likely something in either the rear diff or a possible pin the one of the rear wheels. Center diff failure usually kills the entire drive train.
Definitely shim all 3 diffs and make sure they are full of at least grease. I use diff lube for the inside of the diffs and white lithium gear for the ring and pinion in the front and rear diffs.
Hey rage rc, I’m so frustrated with my shredder. I’m thinking of putting it in the trash can. You got any fixes for the rear and front diff. The outer ring gear on the diffs keep grinding off teeth. I can even get a battery pack to drain before the shredder has grinded off the teeth
I had trouble with my diff also but I put spacers on both sides so that might be my problem on why my wheels don’t spin when on the ground and do you put 1 or 2 spacers?
Hey I have the volcano epx pro an I have changed the spur gears due to grinding noised and I'm still having these grinding noises still. Could the diff case be another source of defect im situations
Could be bad bearings on the pinion shaft. I ran into that once before. I couldn't tell you for sure without testing it and tearing it apart. You could post a video on the Rage Rc Repair Facebook group of mine and I might be bale to help a little more there.
rage have had a issue with front diff pinion slop, pinion pushes to where both gears bottom out . like its shaft does'nt have correct shim. if i push pinion back towards ctn diff its smooth, oddly i don't think this shaft n gear come apart to add a shim. so i ordered 2 whole new assemblies. i believe its missing shims , first time iv'e had this issue
I have mine for less then 2 weeks today I took it to park having fun in the grass I notice making weird clunky noise I think it’s coming from the front
ive been binge watching your shredder videos but maybe i missed it but did the 1m oil work for the diff to fix the truck feeling like it is front wheel drive?
Yep, took my Shredder on her maiden rip...didn't check nuts and bolts. A wheel came off from loose nut under full power and...*ZING!* there goes the center diff. I can now hold the LF or LR tire and turn the RF or RR tire with the other two on the ground and "click click click" you can feel and see the spider gears slip over each other with each tooth. Ughhh.....If I had only done a basic nut and bolt check before taking her for a quick rip. Oh well time to upgrade. LOL
@@ragercrepair9301 ok thanks that’s good to know! I prob won’t leave it stock though. I want to at least throw a 150 amp sec in it as well. So I will definitely be shimming all the diffs and putting thicker lube in. Also last question did you ever have any trouble from using that normal washer vs the oem shims?
Yes. A normal washer is far to thick and will cause the gear mesh to become extremely tight. That will basically lock the diff altogether. Which will cause rear diff failure.
Imo it's one of the best trucks I've ever had. It's extremely simple to fix and modify. If I had to do it again I wouldn't go as big with the motor. I would keep the original motor and just upgrade the esc, make it 6s and change my pinion gearing. I have so much power now I can blow 6s rated tires right of tee he rims. Just blew out an arrma backflip 6s tire yesterday.
The spider gears in mine are not a problem buy the ring and pinion on the rear diff have stripped countless of times and I’ve checked the mesh it’s fine I’m really stumped on this got any ideas?
Rage Rc Repair no I haven’t I checked I’ve read that the ring and pinion can be to hard and brittle and it chips the teeth off and to put just the ring and pinion in the oven on 500 for 30 minutes and they won’t be as brittle I’m gonna try that next.
Yes that called tempering the steel so the steel molecules can relax so the hardened sections of the steel will relax and evenly "flow" throughout the part. Makes an even hardness all the way through the metal and not just on the outside.
The I million is awesome! I'm using 15k front and rear and I run a mixture of lithium grease and Lucas in the gear cases for lubeing the main "pinion" and ring gears.
I was wondering can it use complete 6s differential from arrma or is it going to be at 4S differential from arrma if not using the internals for the Redcat housing I hope I made sense just want to know if I can use a complete arrma diff
Ok so long story short yes you can use the entire arrma kraton 6s center diff. But you have to use the outer bearing races from the original redcat bearings and run them over the redcat ones. I'll do a video as soon as I get the complete arrma center diff I ordered.
L-02B is the part number for the outside shims that rest against the bearings, and BS903-091 is the part number for the inside shims. L-02B will say its for the TR-SC10E, but the measurements are identical except for the outer diameter which measures 15mm. The original measures 15.5mm.
The part number is bs903-091. Not sure about the side bearing number. I have so many spare diff I've never had to buy those shims. I don't even buy the internal shims anymore because I have so many broken diffs from customers rigs. I just keep all the good guts and shims and pitch the rest. I built spare used diffs for my buddies to throw in when they're in a pinch and that's about it. I can try to find it for you.
Shimming all 3 diffs is number one. Lubing the diffs correctly and a metal spur gear is a must have. Bigger esc and a 6s motor will be needed as well. I would recommend a hobbywing. Finding a 3674 motor that's 6s is hard so upgrading the motor mount to the earthquake 8e mount is the simplest way to get the 40mm motor to fit without too much hastle. If you need info and links on what parts to get, just DM me on fscebook. My profile name is car smith. You can also go to the Rage Rc Repair group on fscebook to ask any questions.
I have an Earthquake 8E and I just got done upgraded it to 6S. All I did was use the ESC from the Kaiju and a HobbyStar 3665 2100kv motor. The processes should be similar because a lot of the parts are interchangeable between the 8E and the Shredder. And as Rage Rc mentioned, shim your both your diffs and your center diff. I even went as far as hardening the diff cups because those get eaten up on 4S. So I could only imagine what 6S would do to them.
I noticed my epx drift redcat was slipping in the rear diff, but non of the gears were worn out. I ordered the shims but im still wondering where exactly i should shim. ??
@@ragercrepair9301 I literally took everything apart and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I shimmed the pinnion gear to mesh more thats about it. Haven’t tried it yet
i ended up snapping a ring gear right out of the box. like HALF of two teeth broke off and wedged themselves in the pinion gear and the front wheels stopped turning.. i still had 93% on the battery packs XD
You're not the first one I've heard of. So basically any truck I get, even if it's brand new out of the box, I tear it apart and tune the diffs. I shim them and adjust everything. Also contact redcat and they will send you a new diff under warranty. They have a pretty good customer service department. And when you put it back together, use my videos as a guide and shim everything correctly. Also install performance bearings all through the front, center, and rear diffs. You will have much less problems with the truck in the long run.
Hey bro, I am new to the big scale bashers scene and i recently picked up a slightly used redcat racing shredder from my wife's work for $50 and I just got my battery in today for it and I went to rest it out and I found out that my center diff seems to slipping or something and acts like a really loose slipper clutch!! Could this possibly be my issue that you mention in this video?
L-02B is the part number for the outside shims that rest against the bearings, and BS903-091 is the part number for the inside shims. L-02B will say its for the TR-SC10E, but the measurements are identical except for the outer diameter which measures 15mm. The original measures 15.5mm.
thanks for sharing. honestly wish i had seen this, I ended up returning mine after lots of issues with my diffs stock. maybe ill get a kraton then- wish i would have seen this tho.
Yeah no one knows the real reason for why it happens, but I figured out the solution with lots of testing and haven't had issues so far even on 6s bashing it hard!
It took about 10 runs to wax the stock diff. They really need setup out of the box. Yes they're ready to run, but running and being tuned correctly are two different things.
Thank you, I thought mine was a defect, was slipping right out of the box and spent the last two weeks working on it. This made perfect sense.any suggestion in getting more speed or what to upgrade to go for 6s?
Well honestly I run mine on 4s more often than not. It's such a light dig 4s is really all you need. A better motor and esc makes a big difference. I suggest a 150a esc at least and move it as close to the motor as possible.
@@ragercrepair9301 Question. Did you ever measure the diameter of the sun gears? I just bought some 5x14mm and 5x15mm shims by serpent and tekno that may be better than the factory shims due to covering more of the backslide of the gear minimizing "wobble"...
@@ragercrepair9301 Not any new stuff. Last time we talked was on FB when I bought the springs from you for the shredder.... Let me know where I can reach you.
Cityofsin, let me know what you use and how it works out to go to 6s , just comment here please on what you change and parts of possible . I'm excited to get this up and running to max balls...
So as far as 6s I'm running stock front and rear diffs with an extra shim and 15k fluid. 500k fluid in the center diff. And the arrma kraton 6s center diff and spur gear made bh hot racing. No problems in a year!
Nice video. I have a question my monster truck is suddenly slipping left rear tyre. Like differential slips and i can hear a sound when i full throttle but if i excelrate slower then no sound.
All 3. I shim them all and tune them with quality silicone diff lube. 500k or 1million k in the center and 15k front and rear seems to be about perfect to keep it together.
L-02B is the part number for the outside shims that rest against the bearings, and BS903-091 is the part number for the inside shims. L-02B will say its for the TR-SC10E, but the measurements are identical except for the outer diameter which measures 15mm. The original measures 15.5mm.
Man that sucks bad. What system do you have in it and what tires are you using? Going to big and heavy with the tires destroys diffs in a heartbeat. This truck has 1/10 scale diffs honestly. So getting them perfect is really hard.
@@ragercrepair9301 stock wheels and tires and I was running a max6 ESC on 6s but not anymore I'm going back to 4s and leaving it like that I bought a kraton 6s from a friend I'll just make that one fast cause even tho I love the shredders it's to slow
@@ragercrepair9301 yea hopefully going back to stock will solve the issue cause I really like driving the truck and I love how light it is for how big it is my kraton weighs more lol. But at this point I'm welding all the gears together and letting her eat 🤣
L-02B is the part number for the outside shims that rest against the bearings, and BS903-091 is the part number for the inside shims. L-02B will say its for the TR-SC10E, but the measurements are identical except for the outer diameter which measures 15mm. The original measures 15.5mm.
L-02B is the part number for the outside shims that rest against the bearings, and BS903-091 is the part number for the inside shims. L-02B will say its for the TR-SC10E, but the measurements are identical except for the outer diameter which measures 15mm. The original measures 15.5mm.
