Greetings to you brother,- I'm fairly new to the RC ground game am usually into planes. With that said you have done a fantastic job with this video, exactly the info I needed and then some. Will continue to look for more informative articles in the future. "Well done sir".
Thank you kindly. Welcome to ground RC. By the way, there are some pretty good deals on ground and air on Towerhobbies and Amain. Well, Arrma for ground on some models.
It depends if you are running sway bars or not. Say you go with the stiffer sway bars. Do one less in the rear. Then do a 100k in the front, center slipper, and a 20k rear is a good start. It may seem a little high in the front, but that inner front tire will lift off the ground and you will cook anything less than 50k. By high speed I am assuming VXL 3s. On my MT410 I am actually running 1 million in the front because it just diffed out on 4s with lighter stuff the front diff got hot. That has a Tekin T8i. But this a bashing only.
@@CarlosDelaoGunEngraver That is a good start. If you have low grip tires, it will work great. If the tires grip a bit much, you may need to change it. That Slash is probably 2500g dressed. When you run it, check which diff diffs out. that's the one that will need thinker oil. To be honest, the Slash is still small enough and light enough that a front spool will also work for just bashing. Also, see how it wheelies. If it wheelies a lot, go lighter in the center. If it wheelies not at all (it should so if it doesn't) check the temp on the center diff. It is easy to diff them out and cook them. You would need thicker fluid.
What we really need is worm gear driven "torque sensing" differentials like in fullscale cars. Those send a multiplication of power that the slipping side can apply to the side with grip, and IIRC, they're mostly open when no power is applied. Putting this in the front, with medium-ish fluid in the center, and a spool in the rear, with stiff rear swaybars and no front swaybars (in order to get the rear inside to lift) would theoretically, to my current understanding, allow the most controllable oversteer, launch, and rotation characteristics. Though my current understanding also says that geared, fluid-filled RC diffs act like really shitty, delayed torsens already, so...
That would definitely oversteer. Not sure how controllable though. After reading your other post, I am really intrigues as to how a helical diff would work in RC. IT is my favorite in cars. I used to have an MR2 Spyder and installed one and it was amazing. My current car has clutch packs and they are not that great in comparison for turning. I do not think it is a weight issue at that scale. But some RCs are proportionally over powered. I wonder if it is just too expensive or would break to easily. I would love to see one for an SCT410 or even a Slash 4x4.
@@telecomandorc might be able to get one done with 3D printing and or custom machining. But you would have to have the cad design on point imo, copy either the wave track or the Detroit truetrac. But then again those are the only two that I even somewhat understand.
