Mr gray i believe you are one of the best instructors i have seen on the internet. you have answered a lot of my questions very clearly and exact. it seems that when i have a question you have a video on the same subject. Thank you very much for all your info.
VERY cool thanks for the video and the information on how to get started on this type of project. I also, like the fact that you kept it simple enough for a green-horn like myself......
I did find out much later, that if you cut a cube, you don't have to cut the corners off. You can jam one end into the headstock morris taper, and take the point out of your live center, and insert the other end of the cube into that. A cone on the tailstock would work as well. You could use the tailstock morris taper, but I would wax it first.
Thanks Reed! I really enjoyed this video... I've always wondered how these unique bowls were turned and you answered my question with an excellent demonstration! Now, one last question to be answered...how do you sand and finish something like this... I know...VERY CAREFULLY??? Thanks again for sharing and safe turning to you always!
I saw someone else do it first, but can't remember if it was a demo or magazine article. There are a couple of other video clips up on it. I was the first to figure out cutting off the corners on a tablesaw that I know of. Jim Quarles, one of the moderators on Woodturner's Resource mounts his with one corner in the headstock morris taper, and the other in a live center with the tip knocked out. I haven't tried that one yet.
the band saw trick for a perpendicular line is brilliant....now that i've seen it, it seems so obvious, but i'd never heard it mentioned before...... these little cube-bowls are really interesting.....you guys (over on Woodturners Resource) keep prompting me to step up my game...I want to go home and try making some now!!!
For speeds, I don't have any speed indicator. Never have had one. With an irregular piece like this, and between centers. I am probably in the 500 to 800 range till reversed, then up to 1000 or so when it is in the chuck. For sanding, I power sand just about everything. Main thing with a piece like this is to use very slow drill speeds when any where near the edges.
I have all 3 coring systems, and prefer the McNaughton. The learning curve is the hard part about it, but once you learn, it is faster and more efficient. Catches are mostly from trying to feed too fast, and if you are below center. I keep mine about 1/4 inch above center. If you try to take out the nub that is left when the core pops out, you can see how much the blades flex. A scraper below center on the inside of a bowl will catch worse than if it is above center. Also, too high or too low, and you have a square peg (the blade) in a round hole (blade kerf), which can make the blade bind, and that contributes to catches. Try green wood, maybe 12 inch diameter for first cores, and cherry is perfect, not too hard, not too soft.
That is awesome but it looks like it's a little bit difficult to me I'm having a hard time doing just a basic bowl 😂 they look like cups I can't figure out how to round the bottom every time I try my tool catches and I only have did 1 working on my second
Reed, I really like your videos, the way you explain what your doing is very helpful. If you could show the profile of the gouge you're using would be alittle more helpful. Mahalo
Well, I can't remember.... I am pretty sure that is a 40/40 grind for my gouge when roughing, which is my go to tool for most of my turning. I some times use a fluteless gouge from Doug Thompson for finish cuts in the bottom or a very high shear/slicing cut.
Robo, that was very cool. When you are doing the hollowing, as the part was turning, I found it kind of hypnotizing! How did you come up with the approach/technique to do this? Neil
Great video. What tool/grind were you using around the 12 minute mark? I couldn't quite see the geometry but it left a beautiful finish kind of like a gouge that was ground asymmetrically and then used to shear cut...... Thanks Reed and keep feeding us!
Jonto Dickens That is one of Doug Thompson's fluteless gouges which is half round bar stock and has a nose profile like this ) so not a lot of sweep to it. I have one video clip just on using that. The more I use it, the more I like it.
Well, I don't really care for any of the softer woods. The cone bearing trees being lowest on that list. One reason is the grain is more difficult to deal with as in getting clean cuts, and when it comes to sanding, they all have pitch in them which really gums up the sand paper. Some thing like Yew does well, but most of the pines do not.
