www.robohippy.net Tips from Robo on Shear Scraping This video is a slightly revised edit from a previous version, we apologize about the loss of comments and questions.
Reed, all your You Tube videos are amazing. I miss you on the Internet. Hope you are well. You are an amazing turner! (Mike Waltz even recognized recently that you were not on the "net".) Best wishes from your Pebble Beach, CA scraper-fan!
This angle of sheer scraping works very well on a metal lathe for getting a fine finish on softer metals. Enjoyed your informative presentation, made a lot of sense. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Excellent tutorial on scrapers and sharpening methods. I am finding I've come to use and appreciate scrapers more with experience. I am late to discover your expertise, but I'm digesting your years of excellent content.
Great information and video. As a wood patternmaker I mostly used scrapers. It was the best tool to hold the dimensions required for the job. You have shown a great use for the scraper to get a fine finish. Thanks for your videos I really like the way you present your information. I am from Oregon myself and will watch for any Workshops you put on. Gary
Reed -- Thanks for an informative and entertaining video. A couple of comments on terminology. On the lathe, there are basically two categories of cuts: Bevel supported cuts and scraping cuts. Both types of cuts can be done at 90 degrees to the rotation of the wood or at a 'shear angle' to the rotation of the wood. So, you're right. When turners use a bowl gouge to scrape, they often say that they're 'shear scraping', but that's only true if the angle of the cutting edge is at a shear angle to the rotation of the wood.
A superb tutorial Reed, very informative, I learned a lot. Thank you. Take care Mike PS - No problem going to the grinder often with the Robo Rest me thinks ;)
First time watching you it's a great learning video I just started watching wood turning videos and want to get into it so this kind of video really helps a lot thank you for sharing this with us James
Reed......stumbled across your channel yesterday looking for ways to dry here in the soggy SE.......I have learned more in 24 hours than the last year in golden nuggets from you..........many thanks and keep it up all you want Just the facts - Jack style of no BS help is right up my self taught mostly mistaken way of doing things Not to mention that I have a distinct preference to "bowls with holes" as far as what I am interested in turning Thanks
I was kind of expecting the shavings to be a little finer with the burnished edge, but I couldn’t tell from the video. I’ll have to go out to my shop and experiment. I have a large burnisher used for a card scraper. I’d like to find something small like you’re using.
The round burnishers, commonly used on card scrapers are a bit soft for M2HSS. I googled carbide rods and found a place that sold them. I got 100 for about $3 each. Any small carbide router bit will work, and if you have some place that does carbide, they may have scraps. I did have better luck with the triangle burnishing rod on M2. I have mostly V10 from Thompson and M42 from D Way now, and the standard burnishing rods are not hard enough. Look up Taylor tool works/taytools. They did have a carbide one for standard card scrapers.
great video. was watching a few other and noticed that your lathe is set up tall. maybe an illusion though. anyways I'm 6'3ish and my heck has be hurting a bit after turning for a while. Short breaks help. I have it set up how they say measure your elbow at 90 degrees and that's the spindle height. I was wondering if by raising two inches this would help. Thanks and be safe
I would say Lyle is more accurate with SHEER vs SHEAR, according to Webster's Dic. It is modifying the verb "scrape", so it's an adverb in this use. Never the less, it is a very effective method. I do better with scrapers vs bowl gouges - get a more even surface. Enjoy your videos Robo, thanks.
Excellent and informative. Thanks. Reed, at what angle do you sharpen your near- spear point sheer (shear!) scraper? And I wonder if I buy one of Doug Thompson's scrapers will he shape it to your design before shipping? Thanks, Reed! Ned
Ned, all of my scrapers have a 70 degree bevel. I do need o send this clip to Doug so he can watch it. I would think he could at least rough out the design. I cheat and use a 2 hp belt grinder with 36 grit on it...
robohippy Thanks, Reed, for your quick reply. I will contact Doug to see if he will, as you say, at least rough it out. It's a lot of steel for a CBN wheel to remove.
I got a bunch of blanks from Dave Schweitzer at D Way tools. !/4 inch it too thin for my taste, and 3/8 is too thick, especially since this is not a heavy roughing tool. 5/16 is perfect thickness, but they don't make M42 in that thickness. I think mine are 1 1/4 wide, and I just got some 1 inch wide ones. For making the profile, on the outside scraper, I use an abrasive blade on my Skill saw to make the angle cut, then take it to a 36 grit belt on a 1 1/2 hp belt sander. Not a fast process. I may end up putting them up on my web site, but not for a while. When Dave shapes his, he has a 60 grit CBN wheel on a 10 inch high speed grinder. It does a fairly good job. Not sure if I want to make that many of them.
Well thank you. Not to sound corny...but I find your videos extremely helpful...and they keep me motivated to keep doing better. God bless you. Keep up the great work.
I think another name for 'shear' cutting is a 'slicing' cut. No matter though, both are at a high angle. Scraping is flat on the tool rest and 90 degrees to the rotation.
That appears to be a funny thing about shear scraping, and it makes no difference if you are using a gouge, scraper with the grinding burr, or scraper with a burnished burr, they seem to cut very well going uphill against the grain or down hill with the grain. Possible a little bit better going down hill, but not noticeable.
What s the hone that you use too take the burd , can i get some on e bay -amazon , have you the name of it , ossum video , learn a lot , have a bench diamond stone , but miss the hone that you are using, just a as a potato pealer John Norway
I use a carbide rod to form the burr. My first one was a small carbide bit from a drill set and it worked fine. Small carbide router bits can work also. If you have a local carbide shop you may be able to find them there. The one I use is 3/16 inch diameter. One turner prefers 1/8 inch diameter. You can use a diamond hone to raise a burr, and it works better if you go side ways on the bevel rather than up and down, but that still isn't as good as a burnishing rod. The traditional round rods used for burnishing card scrapers doesn't work that well on the M2 high speed steel, and barely on the M42 and V10 like D Way and Thompson tools. I could get a fair burr if I used the triangle burnishing rod.
