Mine was flying terrible and just seemed twitchy. Decided to refresh it for the hell of it and it's amazing now. If yours seems off just flash it again. Deff works.
Damn, I got a bad m7 1s too. I hope this fixes it. Twitches its ass off and motors are red hot after 1 minute of hovering. Also noticed that cam wires are wedged against frame, totally negating the FC soft mounts. Either have to trim away frame or ditch the connector and direct solder, lame af HM 😖. Lowered all D gains to 15 and that helped motor heat, but has weird delayed twitchiness at those low values.
I know on my X12 all-in-one I had to change the min/max level in blue jay and it worked for me. I always like your videos, they're very informative. Thank you!
Nice bruh!! Strangely, i tried bumping up the startup and it just stuttered for this FC. But it worked for both my own Mob7 and Mob7HD. Aaww.. thanks bruddah! Really appreciate the support always man. No no no,. thank YOU bruddah.
Hi! It's always safer to save the setup first ("diff all" or "dump"), reflash, and reload the setup, this way you don't lose settings, like ELRS bindings, rxrange and other tunings you might have done. Normally you should be able to avoid using the "boot" button on the quad by using the "bl" command within CLI. I suppose that you didn't show that you can directly click the "update firmware" on BF configuration 10.8 because you may fall into the "USB driver mess" (and then try Zadig, IRC driver fixer, etc.).
oh yeah!! Thanks for reminding me bruh! I realized I didnt mention it in the video. Yeah, ur right. But I tried that on this FC and the problem still persists. So I just did it this way to wipe out the entire FC and reflash with the hex file from Happymodel instead. That worked pretty well, so I thought I'd share it.
Awesome man!! Keep me updated!! And if you still have issues, come onto my discord channel and we'll try to resolve it and get u flying ASAP!!! Thank YOU bro!!
I will give this a try. My sounds really funny while flying. Has no power, and my motor speed jumps around. Some time when I arm they don’t spin and some times they spin out of control.
aaah.. yes, I had that previously too. U definitely wanna reflash the Mob7 firmware and reflash the blheli-S on esc-configurator.com that might help. It did on mine.
Will that hex file that you flash the firmware with also redo the elrs v 2.0? I was flying this just fine, then I updated my TX module to elrs v3.2 and now it won't bind. But the furthest back the elrs configurator will allow me to go is elrs V2.5. I tried to update the Mobula7 to elrs 3.2 but it errored out so I assume it still has the original 2.0 on it. Then I realized that the Mobula7 is elrs V2.0 only.
of course it wont bind bruh.. V2 only works for V2** and V3 only works with V3**. Yes bro, the hex file will help. Reflash using the file from the Happymodel site and use 4.3.1 and not 4.4(as this is buggy for SPI RX for some weird reason) I replied ur comment with the link on the other video
@@shogunemperor So if the Mobula7 is elrs version 2.0, the elrs configurator only goes back to 2.5. So will any version 2.x work with the Mobula7 or do I somehow have to find out how to flash my module with elrs 2.0 only? This kind of sucks really because I just bought an elrs PWM receiver for a plane and had to flash both the PWM receiver and the module to elrs 3.2. I hope I don't have to buy a whole other module or radio just to fly the Mobula7 and I hope I don't have to reflash my module every time I want to change from the Movula7 to the plane.
@@CarbonGlassMan no u dont have to buy a new module. LOL Yes, any version of the same. So, V2 works for V2xx and V3 works for V3xx Since ur TX is on V3.2 u just need to reflash the Mobula7 with the hex file as that is specially for V3 compatibility. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VCc9nVSF4R0.html
@@shogunemperor Thanks man. I really appreciate your help. I've never run into this problem because all of my elrs stuff has exact matching firmware versions. I'll follow your video and give it try in the morning.
@@alanlee2746 I figured it out I updated the firmware from beta flight instead of the happy model web page fixed the issue not sure but I do not think the beta flight firmware is for the elrs version
I got my Mob7 HD 1s and ran into the issue you showed after I flashed BlueJay and can't get it to fly. It spins then stops when I try to arm. How should I reflash BLHeli? I have tried all the versions for BLHeli listed on ESC-configurator.
yeah!! Reflash back to Blheli_S. I currently dont have a fix for this except flashing back to Blheli_S. But better it flying than not if you asked me. Use Blhelisuite. Here's a link from Oscar Liang oscarliang.com/flash-blheli-s-esc-firmware-fc-pass-through/ hope it works for u bruh!
@@shogunemperor Thank you so much I got everything working. It wouldn't spin up with BLHELI flashed via BLHELI Suite but I was able to flash to Bluejay 16.7 48khz, maxed up both startup power sliders in BJ and it is flying now. Again thank you so much
@@MichaelDFPV AWESOME MAN!!! Thats great to hear!! Weirdly enough mine was reversed. Couldnt get it to work with Bluejay!! Glad its all sorted out bruh! No no... thank YOU for dropping in my man!! Happy flying!!
I saw your post on the HM official group. Im thinking maybe a couple of things:- 1) do a radio calibration 2) check radio settings (AETR/TAER) and also on betaflight make sure stick movements are ok 3) if all else fails contact info@happymodel.cn It was flying fine before?
what do u mean? I just did it just now. www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2021/11/24/early-elrs-v2-0-compatible-hex-for-happymodel-aio-spi-boards-elrs-f4-2g4-elrs-x1-x2-x12-elrs/ Site is still accessible
@@shogunemperor thanks yesterday could not reach from pc. I think I diy produced another problem by updating rsp flashing my iflight commando to elrs 3.0 and it seems spi based elrs on mobula 7 only supports up to elrs 2.0. Now looking for a downgrade. As I tried a ton of ways and time to bind the commando and mobula by same passphrase. Just updating the modula by betaflight did not work. Only error message.
ooohhhh!!! YESSSS its 2.0! And for SPi you dont need the binding phrase. I cant comment on that bro, much apologies, I can only speak for the Happymodel ones. Maybe try contacting them to see if they can assist?
Please check the pinouts here:- www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2022/07/28/superbee-f4-lite-aio-flight-controller-elrs-frsky-version-for-1s-tiny-whoop-drone/ Moblite7 HDZero do not come with boot buttons. They use boot pads.
Either the NBD 40mm props or the Gemfans: SG$ 9.57 15％ Off | 40mm 1635 3 Blade Propeller 1mm 1.5mm Props for FPV Racing Brushless Tinywhoop Drones 1103 1105 Motor Gemfan Single Hole 8Pair a.aliexpress.com/_mMbKBcI Just make sure its the newer model without the T-mount holes.
Thanks for dropping by bruh. Ok, so for me, I find the biblades smoother in terms of turns and transitions... but it tends to drift a little... quite miniscule actually... but my only gripe is that it lacks thrust as it has only 2 paddles. One of the reason I swapped them to triblades is that I can power through a tight maneuver without hitting the ground or have too much propwash or oscillations when I up the throttle.
the reflash on the Happymodel website is much safer. Also its the pretunes that u can find on the file from their site. A reflash on Betaflight 4.3.1 will put ur FC all in stock configuration.
If you look at the changelog of 4.3.1 it should be no problem. Whatever version, the main advantage of flashing from a local file and using the "boot" button (or the "bl" command), as Shogunemperor shown, is that you often avoid USB driver problems you may run into otherwise. Having a local file also makes you independent of any Internet outage, or you may reflash in areas without network coverage.
