I take some evergreen cuttings and set them up for rooting. Help me make videos by donating here: / codyslab Follow me on Facebook: / codydonreeder SubReddit: / codyslab
... Unfortunately, this project will take about 50 years. I know, I hate youtubers do that myself, but I'll cut the video now. But I need your feedback guys, because if I did something terribly wrong, I want to know it NOW. =)
Tissue culture might be an interesting project for Cody to work on. Edit: oh wow okay some quick advice about cuttings. 1. Use bypass cutters they damage the stems less. 2. When "scraping" the cuttings the idea is to expose the cambium underneath the dermis think of it as whittling off about 1thou from the outside. 3. Don't dip into your source container of root hormone pour a tiny amount into a small container (I use a shot glass). This helps you prevent the spread of disease. 4. That store bought stuff is crap buy a liquid mixture that you dillute to get your desired strength. The bottle will often have recommendations for different types of plants. 5 your humidity box is decent however you should see signs of rooting in roughly two weeks. Once you have rooting you need to get them out of that humid zone as the chance for disease is outrageously high. 6. You may want to decrease the intensity of the light and increase the time it's on. Photosynthesis is a water consuming reaction and at the moment the plant has no true way to take on water.
Good advice in here. Second the less intense light with more time. You want to use the humidity until they start rooting and then get ventilation going so you don't get disease. Just don't go suddenly from the humidity environment to no cover. Take the cover off for increasing amounts of time each day to acclimate them to the low humidity environment
@@soccer2themax Thanks man and the humidity lessening in stages makes sense I do all mine in a green house with a mist table so I didn't even think of it.
Well, if you start enough "1-year-wait projects", eventually we'll constantly see new projects start and previous projects end. So it's still a nice variety of content. And they're all well worth the wait :)
Jan Tuts i agree, 1 year wait projects do suit this channel really well, especially ones like this where even 2 or even 3 years from now we can see the fruits of the project throughout videos.
@@teldrynsero6791 Exactly! It also gives some proper weight to the projects: "Remember those cuttings I planted in a box last year? Well now they're saplings, ready to plant!" and then a few years later: "Look at this here grove, it's some of those cuttings I planted several years ago."
Hi Cody, just some small tips from my own experiencess: to make some good plant cuttings you need to keep in mind that there are no roots on them so they need to get water in a different way in the beginning. Propagate them in a high humidity and do not keep the ground to wet to prevent rotting. Normally you will see roots in 2-3 weeks and you can start watering them normally. Also with the light regimen: you have to emulate the cycle of the sun. 12 hours is kinda short and mostly resembles the autumn/winter periode of a plant. Anyways, it's always fun to see your vid's. Cheers and good luck
Also using a coconut shell, sand mixture for the soil could do really well at stopping mold. I've done very very little growing plants from cuttings, but the coconut moss is what held back mold on my only successful attempt
Hahaha it might indeed be confusing but you also have to count the twillight hours with that. This is wat is "normally" used but i can inmagine that there are plant species that have a different cycle either way up north or south.
Not so fast! Our idiot president just threatened to cut funding to the Dep't of Forestry, since he is blaming them for the wildfires. The wildfires happened in part because of existing underfunding, so I don't know how much longer that service will be around, unfortunately.
I love your planting and bee videos. Three suggestions: 1) Instead of a rag you also can use some geo fleece or an insect screen. 2) Cut the cuttings in an steeper angle to expose more tissue to the soil. (Stick it in powdered charcoal, or a mix of charcoal-hormone powder and let it dry for 20 minutes or so.) 3) If you remove more leaves or needles you will reduce evaporation. Greetings from Austria! (I hope our pines will make it!)
Man, who'd have thought a fucking youtube video on planting trees would get so political. You republicunts just have to fight over _something,_ no matter how benign. You guys are pricks. You're also not going to sway Cody with your incessant bickering, so just shut the fuck up and go back to Gab.
@@noanoxan A little quick on the trigger there, aren't you? No one in this chain was fighting over anything. As a matter of fact, you were the most contentious person in this chain. Ease up a bit, OK?
it's almost like you're documenting real life, not fifteen minute snippets of content created for clicks. I prefer it this way. Though I've never rooted trees before...every time I clone something, it's in a liquid bath, no soil. I'll be looking for the update, in six months or so, to see how this works out.
Thats kind of what its alway been like...he just does his projects on the family ranch and areas hes studied and dociments them to youtube...not caring too much about views
Too wet & too cramped bro. They need more space, should you get them to root it's going to become a tangled mess underneath the soil, when you try to separate them the roots are more likely to get damaged & they are extremely fragile & susceptible to shock when they're young. Plus there's no height, you need 'head space' for them to keep air moving around & to give them some room. I think you may end up (as you said) with a "big block of mold"......But them again I've never tried to root evergreens, my experience is with other types of clones. I've ALWAYS found 'Grow Cubes' to be an excellent medium for cloning along with the rooting compound... Good luck brother. Oh & make your light source adjustable, it gets hotter than you'd think & they are EXTREMELY fragile & they've already been put through hell with all the trauma to their stems so over doing the heat with too much light is a death sentence.....& ALWAYS cut the stems on an angle for better absorption of nutrients.
joey dubbs76 good point on spacing, wider let's air around the foliage too but can easily thin them as the unrooted cuttings brown off. Even if tangled, roots can be sorted before potting on bare root. Young trees will regenerate broken roots when bare rooted faster than older trees. I'm sure Cody has packed them in just to engage people here :) He has quite a bit of experience with cuttings.
lmao ohhhh yeaaa my dude??? was thinking the same stuff but then again when ive gotten baby trees from the lumber company in mass. they were sent in blocks of something other than the material of grow cubes...and just a tube hole with soil where they were standing. Was strange not sure what it all meant but had over 5,000 of a variety sent to me that way. prob half inch of space tho.
Cody, have you contacted the Utah forestry service? They can send out foresters to advise you on bringing back trees. Great resource for cheap ready to plant saplings
Several years ago and fifty miles south of Cody (but still in Utah), I attempted to use the forest service to replant an area deforested by fire. After two months of working with several different agencies, I gave up. Way too much bureaucracy.
@@killingtimeitself >didn't use government resources >government that is what surprised me, because the expenses and it needs to train to not have loss and stuff - that I have heard
Another completely fascinating video for a totally worthwhile project. It's good to see somebody doing something that just isn't a 'quick fix', but is for the long term. Good work!
A few tips from making mistakes myself with rooting , add some dividers or buy a small tray of pots at the gardening store else the roots get tangled all the way up and with soft roots like the ones you will get at the start , they will break off easily while replanting the rooted cuttings , lowering the chance of succes. Also maybe add some springtails already or if you see mold forming it will aid with slowing it down or completly removing it! btw wondering are those special grow lights or just white 40w LED strips? because if i remember right (its been a while since i learned about plant lighting) you should prefarably have a combination of blue and red light.(see profesional grow lights in greenhouses) also cutting the cuttings at a 45° - 75° angle should help with optimizing the surface area of the rootable layer in the cuttings. (couldn't see in the video if you did that)
I'd use woodlice instead of springtails. Springtails are known to eat the softer roots of plants, which won't kill the cuttings but will slow their progress.
For LED growing lights, I would recommend using Horticulture Lighting Group's quantum boards. Some soldering handiness is required for assembly but you can't get more efficient grow lights for less. Couldn't be happier with mine.
Perhaps tomatoes might grow best using that spectrum... those dark, dark leaves need some plenty of blue and the flowers and fruiting needs red... but in vegetative state, daylight or even warm white should be fine... He's not trying to grow fruit; he's trying to stimulate root growth. He could do that with the weak, refracted light source from his bathroom window if he wanted to.
You could try air layering some branches which will give you larger trees more quickly. It would also make an interesting video for people who don't know what air layering is.
Pro tip. Coniferous trees have a higher success rate if the cutting is done from a heal cutting. Heal cuttings are done by pulling a small piece down from a stem leaving a small heal at the bottom. Typical length should be about 4.5 inch leaving the growing tip intact. These will take about 4-5 months to be ready to plant out. Other varieties may root quicker and be ready sooner than others but would be better left until they are all ready so to avoid damaging the other plants roots. I hope this helps.
It is so great of you to undertake this project. Perhaps one of the most noble actions a human could take. I wondered as I watched this, if the cuttings could be individually rooted in separate little containers--perhaps like those little water bottles that roses come in from the flower shop--but I imagine it would be much more difficult to get enough oxygen into them. Looking forward to more on this, thanks Cody!
Seeing this video in my subfeed made me smile so hard because it reminded me of all those months spent with my Dad re planting trees on his land it used to be heavily treed scrubland, but when he got it it was just covered by nothing but feral lavender, but now it is all clear and native grasses with one tree atleast every 10 metres.. it is beautiful Thank you Cody
@@samuelscott7646 Those were honestly some of the best months of my life, the feeling of accomplishment every time I see the trees on his property makese me want to move out to the middle of nowhere and fix up an old farming block
@@DuckcuD Ha, I don't mind lavender... the smell, and it attracts bees, and reminds me of a special place... but I get it, it's not for everyone, and it's certainly not the only thing one would want on their land (unless they're a little bit wacky, if you know what I mean)... I'd rather have peanuts than lavender coming up everywhere, myself...
@@sebastianramadan8393 There is nothing wrong with lavender in principal.. but when it has strangled out all other plant life and is not native.. it becomes a problem for the wildlife and a huge fire risk because of its high oil content
When attempting to stimulate root growth, trust me, you can do this with the weak, refracted light from your bathroom window. In fact, if you tried this in direct full day sunlight, those cuttings would all die! I would have probably trimmed those cuttings quite a bit more, too. Less leaves = less perspiration, which is an important factor for cloning, up to a point. I'd wager he's got more than enough light there, but unless Cody works out a solution to control mildew, that might hit him... I don't like sealing cuttings up for this reason, every time they seem to get mildew for me... I tried some basil yesterday, mildew within a day... cut the mildew leaf off, pop it in a vase with some hydrogen peroxide and it's firm and fresh with a bit of what might be a problem soon at the "root section" (that stem is an off-white, rather than a healthy green)... I think tonight I'll use aspirin water... swap from base to acid, then to neutral, boiled (but cooled to room temp) water and that should shock the mold enough while simultaneously stimulating an immune reaction in the "root section" of the cutting... I hope... I've been toying with cloning for a while, now, and I can tell you amount of light is REALLY not a big deal.
Fingers crossed for those pinion and junipers restoring the land is such a great goal. And as someone who grew up in the southwest I can't help but have a warm spot for a good looking pinion tree.
Maybe they will root better if you "rip" them from the main branch and leave a little bit of "old wood" at the base of the cutting, at least that's what we learn in school as a gardener in germany
I only have very faint knowledge from growing a couple of trees from seedlings myself, but maybe this helps: We used to keep the cuttings singled out and not in one big box like you did. We made little rooting pots out of cut in half small plastic water bottles. Drill some holes in the bottom, put in the cut of head in reverse, also some holes in there for the airflow, a paper towel at the bottom to stop the dirt from falling out. Then a wannabe new tree into it and cover it up a bag or some cling wrap to keep moist. That way, when one of them went sick or caught some mold the others were still save in their own little bottle.
Thats really the way to go on a reasonably small scale, but with that much cuttings it might get a bit inpractical. Maybe putting the cuttings in a pot and put the pots in the case, gives plenty time to spot starting rot in my experiance. That would help with seperation to.
I can't believe how many fields of interest Cody has and so many are ridiculously creative. I also am amazed at the comments from everyone with their levels of expertise (and humor :-)
Great video, always interesting especially the difference between the branches of Junipers of different ages. Nice little boxes of green amazing life! Evergreens are my favorite, such different but vibrant green shades!
SerpaDesign Has a ton of videos that might have quite a bit of information on keeping the plants healthy in their cases. Springtails will help with the mold, but may cause minor damage to the roots.
I’d science it: add a few cheap sensors to monitor heat and humidity in your trays. Also, six months is egregious. Should be ready in weeks, maybe a couple months max before needing transplant. Typically cuttings are placed several inches apart. You’ll likely end up with a solid mat of roots if you’re even a fraction as successful as you’d like. I would highly suggest an early intervention-check in a week or two and once they’re starting to bind the medium, move to larger containers. Also, a warming mat and rockwool cubes can significantly speed progress in the future. Anyway, you’re awesome (incredible verve and breadth of skill) and this is one of the best channels - best of luck with your little trees :).
Im not sure about america and where you live specifically but where i live in Australia we have re-forresting "organisations" that grow trees from cuttings and seeds they go out with local schools to plant trees would be great if you have something like that near you if you could do a video of thier set up and planting also possibly get some advice/help
i couldn't tell which exact austrian pines those were, but here in Slovenia (greetings btw ;) ), we have red and black pines. the one leaf pine was really interesting tho, and i agree on your theory that it's because of the lack of water. i'd love to have a few cuttings myself but i live on a whole another continent haha.
I really like your plant videos alot. keep it up cody and good to see the winter doesn't stop these klnd of videos. Althoigh my garden is now pretty much full of brown mush.
We have Eastern White Cedar here and I managed to collect a ton of seed autumn 2017. I sprouted a few of them and many are doing well but I think I'll try rooting cuttings as well this year. I like your setup. It looks like it should work well. Have you thought about trying to air layer some of the mature trees off the ranch for next spring? I did that with my lemon tree and now I have 5 LOL
You should set your lights to 18/6. You want to veg your trees on a summer schedule. Also try to keep your grow room temperature around 80 degrees fahrenheit.
If every village in the world has one Cody, the world would be a better place. This is this is the major project that I am planning to do when I find some more time to spend at my grandparents' village in the steppes of Turkey. That is so inspiring.
To clone I use root cubes in a dome and tray. Use an electric warming mat under the tray with 1/4 inch of water. Cut the stem of he clone at a 45 degree angle and then split the stem 1/2 inch up. Dip in water, rooting powder, water and again into rooting powder. Then stick the clone into the root cube and place in tray. Keep the clones at 95% humidity and temperature between 85-90 degrees. Don't let them dry out maintain 1/4 inch of water in the tray and they will root 1-2 weeks. Then transfer to 16 ounce pots with potting soil for 2 weeks before planting out side.
The seeds are huge compared to our lodgepole pine ! Would using seed for tarts not be a better way to go ? Thanks bud and growing a forest is a noble thing ! I sure hope this all works out bud !
It might be a more sure-fire way to start, I agree. But during this time of year, like he said, it's highly unlikely to find any that are viable and not eaten by bugs.
@@kbosell3812 I think it is a great thing to try for sure. I worked as a crew boss collecting pine and other cones here in BC. Seeing how tiny the seed is was amazing. Our lodgepole cones only open with wildfire. Thusly only get opened every 100 years or so.
Seeds (from what I know) take a lot longer than cuttings to reach maturity. Though for what Cody's doing I don't think that matters too much. Not like his winter will kill young native plants.
Note on rewatching this and getting heavily into bonsai and yamadori [mountain/wild collecting] When you dig up trees, you want to dig 4-5 times the width of the trunk away, and then dig down and under. You can then saw off the taproot. With conifers you don't want to get rid of too much soil on the feeder roots, since they are particularly dependent on mycelium.
There most be a company in the US that sells ready to plant trees. Prices vary from 5 cents up to 15 cents depending on age/size/spices here in Sweden. The difference in our forestry industries can't be that big?
Well if there is no market for it, we should start one. Offering helpful and rare trees, like you said ready to plant, specified for the wanted area. It would be a good concept that could reach a nice scale, to make prizes even cheaper. Non-profit of course.
Other channels cant even come close to the quality of your videos man, very inspiration to do stuff like this. Hiking around the hills collecting cuttings for reforesting definitely inst the worst way you can spend a day.
I've propagated many herbaceous plants i was under the impression that pines have a main taproot. I wonder it the clones will form a main taproot also. I have had far less success using the rooting powder. It has a weak concentration of the rooting hormone. CloneX gel works very well
In my experience plants don't need the taproot even if they would naturally develop one. If they need to root deeper they can do that without a taproot. i.e. the tree probably won't care ;)
My understanding is you can only get a (true tap root) from a seed. That said you should still get a root ball strong enough to support the tree. As for the light cycle, and temperature, I would agree you need to mimic the time of year when tree growth is most active. I would also recomend putting a seedling heating pad under the dome, as to replicate the ground warming in spring. You can use a regular heating pad, but most have an auto shut off after a certain period.
The air pump won't be of much help I think. In fact you should be careful not to over-supply air, or the roots will "air-prune". Sticking the air pump's outlet into a bucket of cool water used to feed the cuttings should be more effective to supply oxygen to the roots. As for the lighting period I would dial in 18h of light + 6h of darkness, more light = more growth,. You could experiment with the timing, most plants grow faster when switched to shorter light periods as this simulates winter time, aka time for plants to put as much effort into preparing for winter survival.
You're right. The air pumps will do little to fight the mold spores that are already on the trees, and that's where the risk lies from my experience... the leaves want to photosynthesize, which takes energy away from root generation. At the same time they're in a closed system absorbing CO2 because they're a carbon-based life form and they need that from somewhere... but what happens when they run out of CO2 and the oxygen levels spiral out of control? Well, that's kind of like what would happen to you if you sucked on the end of a tailpipe... not good! Still, cutting a leaf here and there to reduce perspiration losses of water is a better idea than putting the cutting in a closed system, from my experience...
Thanks for sharing your experiments, you are a man after my own heart with two exceptions, one is you actually do instead of endless dreaming about it, and two you go on camera to teach. If you can get pine from cuttings to root you are awesome. I find one of the most important variables to rooting cuttings is to reduce the leaf area to the bare minimum, typically 3 of the very youngest, smallest leaves out near the growing tip. It needs enough leaf to carry on photosynthesis enough to keep everything flowing in the plant so it can stay as healthy as possible so the amount of leaf area is somewhat relative to the total size of the cutting and the light intensity. You were right to immediately put the stems in water, but to take the same reasoning one step further cut them longer when you collect and then when you are ready to plant cut them again at a 45deg angle about an inch above the initial cut using the sharpest knife you can come up with. Do this cut underwater and keep it there for a couple of seconds, this step is to prevent air embolism in the cutting impeding uptake of water. This seems to be more important with older woody stems like the ones you are trying here. Next thing is to find shoots that have the nodes reasonably close together and you want about 3 nodes under the soil. It can help to carefully thin the skin(bark) around the nodes. More means more chances for roots to form but also more tissue to support and higher rot risk. Soil pH try neutral 7 and a half on either side to dial in what seems to do better. No fertilizer for cuttings, they wont need it until they are actively growing roots and new leaves, and without roots they are sorely limited in their ability to maintain internal chemistry so that chemical salts do more harm than good. Just need available water. Temperature; the warmer it is the faster everything happens making it harder to control. But below some temperature the plant is not active enough to defend itself from pathogens. Most plants effectively stop sub 55F and above 80 your rootless plants cant take up enough water to make it. So right around comfortable for you is about right for the cuttings, 70-78. And for details it usually works better to have a few degrees warmer soil than the air. And some say that the difference between temp during light and temp during dark needs to vary about 10 degrees, but my attempts have never been that controlled to opine. You are naturally going to get that to some extent when the lights are on. You are right about the mold thing, that looks way too wet, shoot for maybe a little bit of condensation down in the corners, 90-95% humidity. You want NO water on the leaves or you risk rot. If you see a water droplet on a leaf soak it up with the corner of paper towel. In that regard it helps to have a cover that is shaped 45degree angle or steeper so that any water that condensates will run to a predictable location so it does not drip on the plants. I think you have way more light than optimum for rooting cuttings, half that would probably be better which can be accomplished easily by raising the lights a few inches. And if you have a choice in color spectrum more blue/ less red seems to be beneficial for young plants and cuttings. IBA rooting powder is a good first try but some things do better without it and if you are splitting hairs the dosage is important. Woody cuttings take longer so I would try toward the cooler end regarding temperature, about 72F to buy more time to develop roots. If you can't find info on conditions for the specie you are trying or even a close relative, it is best to try many methods at the same time to increase your chances that one of them will succeed, then you know better what to do with the next batch. I think the plant you are trying is one of the more challenging ones to succeed with so you will probably have to use every trick to it's fullest to find joy. And lastly, you are probably way ahead to wait until next season and watch for when the seeds will come ripe but sometimes the rigors of the quest are more satisfying than the arrival at the destination. Rock on!
Hey Cody, Ive been documenting the regrowth of Michigan’s forest, since it is still recovering from the logging era, over 100 years ago if you can believe it. These videos of reforesting your ranch have to be some of my favorite videos on your channel!
its actually pretty important blue wave lengths hold the most energy and helps the plant grow quickly. shop LED lights are pretty bad for plants they have very narrow wavelengths that oftin miss what the plants need. high CRI lights include more of these wavelengths but this is why they have those purple looking grow lights that are LED chips designed for this task
Daylight white led lights work great for the carnivorous plants I grow in my room. I would be more concerned about air circulation and mineral buildup from tap water.
It's not required, but it is part of the photosynthetically active spectrum so it's not bad to have it either. Fun Fact: Most greenhouses are UV-shielding. Source: Professional Gardener.
Hey Cody, love your new project! I've run a few common garden experiments for research and I just wanted to let you know that using coconut coir over peat moss really helps prevent mold from taking over your rootings. It's also a lot more sustainable than peat moss so it's more environmentally friendly to use. Love your channel, never stop learning!
Hey Cody, I’ve don’t have much experience in propagating saplings in particular, but I think you have way too much light on them. Typically you want to put cuttings in the dark for a while or at least very low light. Without roots, too much light will kill them. 12 hours is ok, but you would need less than half the light you are using. It’s hard to tell on video, but it looks like way too much. Since evergreens are slow growing anyway, you really only need a few watts worth of led for cloning and rooting.
Also 10:26 They look like standard LED units, which give out wavelengths that the human eye are sensitive to and not optimal for the plant Chlorophyl absorption spectra; red (600 - 700 nm), blue (400 - 500 nm), and far red (700 - 800 nm). Long-duration of red light (600 - 700 nm) has been suggested to accelerate and produce spindly growth which would be advantageous at this time.
@@Bushtailedwildcat I have not heard of using red light to root cuttings. You can use additional red light to flower plants during the flowering phase, but from what I have seen is excess red light produces terrible root growth. White light has never failed anyone. Stick with that. Don't complicate it. Red is absorbed well and plants respond to it best when it's in addition to other wavelengths. Don't try to choose specific colors. Plants do not tell the sun to adjust it's spectrum for their specific needs. Every time I have compared targeted spectrum lighting to white lighting, the plants always showed the most normality under white light.
Love that you saved the bee! I've read that it's best to first poke the hole in the soil and then pack around the cutting instead of stabbing it into the soil which scrapes off the rooting compound.
I'm not sure but I'm assuming they have one needle because having a lower leaf surface area decreases the rate of evapotranspiration thus conserving water
Where Cody is in America trees don't need to worry about not getting much light (imagine clear skies 90% of the time) but there isn't a lot of water so yeah the benefit of conserving water should definitely outweigh photosynthesising less. Also plants don't need a lot of leaves to stay alive. I took a cutting from a berry in a bouquet (don't know what kind) and forgot to water for like a week. Now it only has most of one leaf photosynthesising (down from 8-10) and is starting to grow new leaves too.
@@danielf.7151 given how densely packed those needles tend to be, there's only so much needle surface area a tree will utilize to get light. Most of the needles below the outer layer already loose efficiency, but still give off the same amount of water the outer needles do. So more water loss for less light. Perhaps during winter months when there's less light they may have more needles to make up for the loss of light, but I wouldn't know that.
Cant wait to see how it turns out! I remember last time I did cuttings; out of 200 some odd figs only one actually took but that was years ago. Keep up the great work!
@@bigoljoe1829 18/6 is standard. For vegging and u switch to the shorter 12/12 for fruiting as most things fruit at end of summer also using a 6500k spectrum bulb will give better grow
I have a lot of experence rooting all types of cuttings (but haven't done conifers). I would do away with the air gap and air pump as it's likely to dry the root zone. Instead I'd control the moisture level of the media and sit the containers on heating pads (you can get cheap ones from China that have controllable heat output, maybe stick a probe in to check temps - or even use a controller). Roots grow best when provided with bottom heat. Also keep the light levels fairly low at first as you don't want the plants using all of their available nutrients for top growth - you just need enough light to keep them ticking over. Open the containers several times a week to either vent moisture or spritz depending on how damp they are. Good luck! A noble project.
I like these longer projects. Of course it's fun to see how it went right away, but I also thinks it's satisfying to kind of follow along. And it's always fun when a video pops up in the sub box and my reaction is something along the line of, "oh yeah I remember that. Awesome. I wonder how "project" goes."
hey, my father once told me that you are not supposed to cut em with scissors, but with a very sharp knive. otherwise the little vaines and stuff get damaged by the pressure of the scissors blades from both sides
I think that's only for soft stemmed plants. Evergreens are usually very stiff yet flexible and are adapted to take a beating. The cuttings would be fine. The only thing Cody has to worry about is the production of resin at the area of the cut, because it can negate all use of propagating the cutting.
Probably not a big deal anyway, since scar tissue in conjunction with lack of light seems to form roots for most plants from my experience... and we're talking about pine trees, too, which I can see videos of root pruning on the topic of... they get mechanised spades on tractors and plow straight through all of that filthy soil, gouging it into the root systems... sacrilege, huh? But the roots form such healthy balls without rot or disease! Hmmmmm... The issue would surely be where to take the cut, then... before or after the node? Do you need a non-terminating tip, or is it like spinach, where it seems you can grow an entire plant from 1 square cm of leaf?
Technically I'm a state certified florist (from my high school floral design class lmao), I always just cut em with scissors and they seem to have the expected lifespans. Might not really matter.
As already said below, yeah you should favor a 18-6 lighting schedule...generally what I do when cloning (rooting cuttings). I have had some issues with mold and mildew though...for that opting for a little copper sulfate (bouillie bordelaise or bordeaux mixture) in the spray bottle once a month does the trick. They are young, small and fragile, I prefer to be preventive rather than struggle in fighting a loosing battle. Also, as said as well, with such a setup you should see some nice roots within 2-3 weeks. Just one question, with all of the problems that you've had with fires around your ranch, wouldn't it be wiser to plant some less resinous trees? I don't really know what type of vegetation is indigenous to your area but why not oaks and/or maples as well? I am aware that they may not be suited to the local climate which looks to be quite cold. Otherwise, cheers! great venture to plant some native trees.
Loving these videos :) So far with my experiences with cloning you done everything correct. However looking forward to the results, i'm expecting some failures but i'm sure you will spot why and will be shared in a later video. looking forward to part 4.
You should not dunk the cuttings into the rooting compound container. It will contaminate it. You should pour some into a shot glass to dunk you cutting in.
@@CanadianArchaeologist Stuff growing in the tree. It could have a sickness that has not shown itself yet. Thus you would contaminate every cutting you from that one on.
Okay, you're right, but only because I think you don't even need the rooting compound to begin with... I think if he took clones using a layering method, he might get some massive clones with near 100% success rate in a months time, and without a rooting compound.
Oh man, that intro is fucking awesome; also, love your videos, I get exited every time I see your videos in my subscription feed. Keep up the brain tickling content!
