Hello. First, thank you for posting this informative video. Hoping you can help me out... I have a Whirlpool refrigerator model ED5VHEXVQ04 that is having problems staying functional, specifically it keeps stopping from running. I cleaned the coils and the unit started again, but we had it on "5" for both the freezer and refrigerator sides. I turned the fridge setting down to "4" and the unit ran but now has stopped again. I've ordered a new compressor relay but am now thinking it might have something to do with temperature control board. Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.
Thank you for the video! It is very practical but i run into issues immediately when starting to use the multimeter. You say that certain values are good, but dont give indication what would be a "bad" result. If instead of 5 ohm, i measure 1.6 between relay pins is that an indication of a fault or just variation between different products?
As the video says they are looking into both compressor and condenser fan not running so checking the ohms is irrelevant, both compressor and fan are linked so if there isn’t any power the won’t run just check your voltage if there isn’t any voltage then it’s either a board issue if it has one or in this case a stat problem. If the fan was running an no compressor most likely a compressor fault. And vice Versa.
the computer cord only connects a single wire: the hot wire. You may unplug control board, but it does not hurt if unplugged because if the control board kicks in it only connects the hot wire from outside refrig to inside of refrig, which does not have conflict.
@@GeniusAsian Thank you. I unplugged it to try the cord like you showed. Then I noticed on the board where there was a blown solder joint under the relay. The pin going to the second plug from the left on the bottom. I reflowed the solder and now it works. 😀 Made sure to clean the fan and everything underneath as well. Hope it keeps going.
@@eeledahc great!! I feel very happy helping another person!!! Thank you for taking the time to provide your new finding, your update will help other viewers so that they will check your solder joint as well.
Why when I switch off my refrigerator while it is running, I cannot switch it straight back on. It will switch back on after a few minutes but not straight away???
@@GeniusAsian Even when the compressor is cool, it runs fine when I switch it on, but if you switch it off after 1 min yourself and switch it straight back on, it doesn't run, it just hums and then it clicks off. Why???
@@PF-gi9vv yes, as shown in the video there is this safety overload switch connected to the compressor, this overload can turn off (click) the compressor. When you re-plug your refrigerator, the pressure build up will cause compressor over loaded.
I have a Viking refrigerator. Both my fan and my DC compressor is not working. I tested my fan motor first. My fan motor read 415 ohms. Could it be possible I have an inverter built into this motor that why it is reading high. Any thought on this sir?
Informative but one needs a degree in mechanical engineering to go through the info here. Should be simple and straight forward without wiring diagrams etc. A layperson could not follow all the steps here.
What happens if I can hear the compressor clicking and then it turns on and off after a few seconds and it doesn’t get cold? Both compressor fan and the fan inside the fridge are running… please reply need help
Thank you for showing the video and not pretending to be a movie star and talking real slow like this so that you feel like you're on TV and you're a superstar thank you for just sitting there and explaining what's going on Twain and simple you don't use big words you don't have a fancy accent everything simple and clear I subscribe to your thing which I don't usually ever do I did subscribe and like your page thank you
Hi. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay? Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top. Start relay P/N: WPW10448874, aka W10448874. Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129 Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay. Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay. With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug. The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing. The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side. Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet. Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See RU-vid video... Results: Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm. Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm. Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm. None of the pins are shorted to ground. My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot. Do you think it's the combination relay? Thanks!
when the compressor stopped, there could be many reasons, eliminate other possible causes first: 1. what are possible reasons: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XSspTwABECo.html 2. thermostat: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-grURTgO2-x0.html 3. also you may try to defrost
I very much needed to see the exact connection of the blue & white on the start relay and red wires to the overload and how to insert them back into the prongs and no other video I found would show that as clearly and close-up as this one. I had taken these out without getting a clear enough picture beforehand and didn't want to make a worse problem. Thanks a bunch.
thanks. The control board had a loose connection and I did not know where it was located. Once you showed me where it was (no fans working), I fixed it in 5 minutes. I was worried about my food spoiling, With the Christmas weekend, I was not able to get a repair person out. I was thinking I needed to buy a new fridge but once you showed me where it was (no compressor and no fans working), I fixed it in 5 minutes. Great video and your narrator did a great job.
I have a kenmore. The light inside turns on so I know I’m getting power. The compressor and fan don’t turn on. I replaced the stater relay and nothing.
have you tested to see if thermo stat is the problem? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-grURTgO2-x0.html and also see in general diagnosis ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XSspTwABECo.html
Very well done. Question on the compressor fan: My similar fridge model sucks outside air over the bottom coils, around the compressor, and then the air exits the fridge by the water /ice maker inlet, where the back panel has holes. Is this correct? Wouldn't it be better for the fan to blow outside air onto the compressor and exit the air out the bottom over the coils? Thanks
This is a very interesting question. In a refrigeration system, there is a temperature gradient where the condenser coils metal is the hottest and compressor is the second hottest, and the outside air is the coolest. Cooling the metal is most effective because it is the hottest (Effective cooling involves transferring heat from the hot metal to the cooler air), so there is reason condenser coils is the most important target. Compressor will be shutdown if it is too hot, so cooling compressor could be the most important target. Efficiency and critical element both are factors. That is why some model cool the coils and some cool compressor. Anyway, the metal’s high temperature makes it a primary target for efficient cooling. When air flows over a surface, a boundary layer forms. This layer of slower-moving air near the surface can insulate the metal, reducing heat transfer. Using a fan to blow air directly onto the metal can reduce this boundary layer and enhance heat exchange When using air to achieve convection cooling, a boundary layer forms close to the metal's surface. Positioning the fan closer to the metal helps thin this boundary layer, leading to better heat exchange. Fan Placement depends on airflow direction. using a fan to suck air in rather than blowing air out can be more efficient. When air is blown from outside, some of it may bypass the heat exchanger, reducing the effectiveness of cooling.
@@GeniusAsian Thank you for your reply. As the unit has functioned for 30 years! I should probably let things be, though I am from the school of "keep things cool". Maybe add another fan, but that's overthinking it .... All this started when the frig quit during hurricane Beryl - I suspect the power on/off outages. The result was a disintegrated PTC relay, which was replaced and now everything is back to normal, - I hope!
I have an old kenmore. The light inside turns on so I know I have power. I replaced the starter capacitor but the compressor and fan still don’t turn on.
I have a whirlpool side by side refrigerator model number WRS311SDHM02 and it doesn't get cold at all replaced the control box for Temperature Control. Both fans run lights work. If you push the water and ice it works. Do you buy chance know what it might be.? Thank you so much God Bless you
Hello, I have a problem with my refrigerator, first the compressor was working and then stops suddenly after few tens of sec or few minutes, then it runs for only 1 or sec and then stops. The resistance of the start replay showed 30 Ohm. I called the service center, the technician said the relay is okay but the compressor is not and since thay stopped manufacturing that compressor model you have to buy a new refrigerator (the refrigerator is a Samsung Zipel, and the compressor is mk183B - L2U). He didn't measure anything, just he said that by looking. Do you agree with that? Thank you
My fridge compressor and condenser fan motor are not running. Power is going to the compressor but not to the condenser fan motor. As the condenser fan motor is faulty Iam right in thinking it's holding off the compressor to run until it is replaced?
yes, since a compressor is expensive so a new fridge maybe a good option. Just need to be sure it is not those 3 cheap components but rather it is the compressor at fault though.
All the fans in my fridge are working. The freezer and fridge are warm. The compressor turns on for 5 seconds then cuts off. Then starts again after few minutes and on for 5 seconds then off again. The compressor is hot. I checked the starter relay and capacitor the best I can. No rattle in the start relay. If compressor is hot could it still be starter relay or is compressor mechanically bad? Thanks for your help!
we may try these three things: 1. the coil: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jMkkoXpHIPA.html you should do this anyway whether you have refrig problem or not. 2. there are two tubes connected to the compressor, are there temperature difference between these two tubes? 3. When your compressor turned off or on, is the thermostat closed or open? thermostat: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-grURTgO2-x0.html
@@GeniusAsian hello. I left fridge unplugged for 24 hrs. Plugged back in and was working fine. Inside fridge and freezer temperature was dropping slowly. I then unplugged for 2 seconds to put back fridge back into place then plugged back in, now same problems, cycles on for few seconds then off. Compressor is very hot to touch, not sure if that is normal or not. All coils were cleaned, there was a temperature difference between the pipes. Thermostat I have yet to check. Possibly a faulty compressor? Any help or advice is appreciated, thank you so much.
@@audittheauditors after you unplugged, you should not re-plug right away, it is not good for your compressor (you said: unplugged for 2 seconds to put back fridge back into place then plugged back in), you need to wait 20 minutes. Did you notice any frost? When you unplugged for 24 hrs, the effect could be de-frost. So still check thermostat and frost.
No frost. I plugged it back in after couple hours again and it started running. Compressor turned off after it reached the temperature I set it for 50F ( i set it higher than 38F just to test). Then I can hear compressor trying to turn back on but it cycles on for 5 seconds then off for a minute. This repeats and compressor gets increasingly hot. So hot that cant touch it.
@@audittheauditors still it does not hurt to check the thermostat, i.e. if the thermostat asks compressor to turn on but the compressor does not turn on, then it is compressor problem. But if the thermostat does not ask compressor to turn on, then focusing on compressor may not solve your problem.
ONE CANNOT BORROW ICE from the neighbor - as it is impossible to return the ice. when it has melted. Better to purchase bags of ICE from the SHELL _ CHEVRON _ TEXACO or other service station.
the story goes like this: you can go to your neighbor to borrow some refrigerator space, they will say they run out of space but may have freezer space, then you can give them a coke bottle filled with water (as seen in this video) ask them to leave the bottle in their freezer.
Thank you. Its quite informative. However my problem is bit weird. The compressor starts but doesn’t run long enough. So doesn’t cool enough. The thermostat looks ok. What might be the problem.
@@GeniusAsian hi. Thank you for reply. I checked and it works ok. Looks like the compressor is overheating so the protection relay is kicking in and not letting it run for long enough to cool the freezer sufficiently
Hello my refrigerator is not cooling. My condenser and evaporator fans are working. The condenser coils look ok. It doesn’t sound like the compressor is turning on. Could this be a start relay problem? Thanks.
when you buy a disposal you can choose a larger HP: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-khAepTwgdTI.html , but since refrigerator's compressor needs to match the rest of system design, it is better to match. Too much HP means higher pressure, so you need to check every components in the path of refrigerant flow, to see if any components along the tube will work well.
Thank you. It's very informative. However my problem is kinda different. When opening the freezer, temperature quickly drops and when closing it again, it almost takes a whole day to get the set temperature.
there could be many different issues since you did not provide enough info, you need to test and measure to eliminate them one by one, some of the issues could be as follows: 1. defrost issue? 2 does the temperature sensor or thermostat read the temperature correctly? 3. does control board read the temperature control input correctly? 4. not sufficient freon? 5. door leaking cool air?
Nice video I have a problem with my refrigerator Just like the third example you showed The condenser fan is running but the compressor is not It make the sound like if the compressor is going to run for 1 second and then turns off Any suggestions thank you
thanks great video helped a ton with a friends refrig today my refrig comp went out but fans is cycling fine.GF male cat sprayed outlet right in front of me this blew breaker i replaced outlet breaker fine now but since compressor wont start.would this fry multiple electric parts like thermostat as well as comp starter?sorry but i have googled for 10 hours looking for anything involving a wet outlet or crossed over electric.any help would be a life saver witha full stuff frig and five kids to feed.thanks so much for your time.
My fridge has deprecated integrated start relay/overload with the capacitor that plugs into it. Replacement part calls for separate overload, relay, and capacitor all to be "wired-in" like you have in this video. Can you point me to wiring diagram? For some reason I can't find it.
what do you mean by "wired-in"? Note that you have to check your specific part. If you imagine the three poles of the start relay will form a triangle, for some model would point up, for other models the triangle would point down when installed.
@@GeniusAsian Meaning I have only 2 wires that connect the relay, overload and run capacitor. I need to wire up everything individually for the replacement part(s). Anyways, the manufacturer doesn't have a replacement part so I'm going the route of a universal assembly from Supco and hope that works as a last ditch effort. thanks.
Hi, the capacitor wires should be both placed in one side on the relay (where there is 2 pins) and the white wire (i guess the neuter wire) in the other side from the relay (where there is 1 pin)? Please advise it is an old whirlpool fridge thank u so much in advance 4 ur reply 🙏
The capacitor connects to the relay at the points between the START and RUN pins on the compressor - the THERMISTOR is also between those two pins. Thus the Capacitor is Parallel with the Thermistor
My issue is warm fridge and freezer because compressor not coming on. Only resetting breaker works. Inverter lights come on briefly, start relay clicks (on main board) and compressor tries to start but then nothing. But I wait for 2 or 3 minutes and compressor starts (but no click on relay?).
@@GeniusAsian I fixed it (after having lived with problem for 2-3yrs :|) I noticed the compressor fan was trying to spin but unsuccessful. It could be turned by hand and also failed resistance test. I took it off the blade and sprayed Mass air flow cleaner behind the plastic cover. My theory is that the compressor was overheating and shutting off because fan was inoperable. And I suspect that if the compressor shuts off, then it needs to be reset via unplugging or by switching off breaker for a few mins (which we had been doing for 2yrs!). Very unhappy with Samsung's effort to fix the problem, and won't be purchasing a fridge from them again. Thanks for the help and for your videos.:)
@@GeniusAsian it was hot. The fridge ran for half an hr, cooling and all, but then it just stopped. I unplugged it for an hr but it didn't worked when i plugged it back in.
@@jrelechrelech6898 first step is to make sure it is compressor problem or not, measure each parts to eliminate the good parts from bad ones, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XSspTwABECo.html
Thanks dear, your video helped me to fix my fridge. I just do as your information and finally I found that start relay is faulty. Then I changed it and now compressor is running back. Such a informative video. 👍👍
Hey Mr.S, what were your problems with the refrigerator? My condenser fan is spinning but the compressor wasn’t working. I am thinking the start relay is faulty
That the thermal klixon not overload. You shouldn’t be teaching people this it easy to get a shock. I MUST BE CLEAR DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. if this goes wrong one you will get electrocuted two you could burn out your house.
when the temperature is higher the thermostat on the control board will kick in, see this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-grURTgO2-x0.html
@@KL-oz2iw you said "compressor works", how did you know "compressor works"? When did you hear compressor motor sound? When you touch the two tubes into and out of compressor, did you feel different temperature of the two tubes?
what do you mean "cutting on"? You may measure the voltage on the fan or compressor to see if voltage is delivered. If it is delivered, then check the fan or compressor ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HCyDxWifj-8.html ; if the voltage is not delivered, then check the thermostat ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-grURTgO2-x0.html
When referring to switching ON OFF is written in ALL CAPS On Off is used in a different context. An example would be : I start work on Monday and I am off on the Week-end When you are paying attention to detail you will notice the writing on switches is ON OFF and not on off So learn to pay attention to detail - There is a reason why it is ON OFF that goes back to ancient history that is beyond the scope of this comment
