Radius corners and avoid vertical welds (zig zags, full radius, or fish mouths are stronger and eliminate stress risers) when welding on and auto chassis, appreciate your video
I appreciate the tips and I have learned a lot just from these video comments. They will be added to the knowledge bank and applied to future projects.
Thank you for documenting and sharing your adventure of repairing your Toyota truck’s frame. I have watched many videos on the repair of rusted frames and glean ideas where possible. I gained several ideas from your videos I had not seen used elsewhere. I especially liked your procedure of fish-plating the inside of the frame rails and using plug welds to add rigidity. Your cleaning of the areas to be welded with acid was a new-to-me process. You mentioned the importance of removing all debris that could be reached inside the frame rails, even beyond the area where you had been welding. Many other videos show frame repair caps added to rotted frames with no internal cleaning attempted. Even if procedures were used to spray anti-rust chemicals into the frames after repairs the spray would only coat the top of the debris pile. That debris will, as you mentioned, continue to adsorb and retain water and road salt and promote degradation of a newly repaired frame. Additionally, the debris could eventually block frame drain holes and further accelerate future frame rot. Folks wanting the most return for their efforts and expenditure would do well to follow your example. Of course, some people may not be able to afford the extra expense of a thorough job and that has to be considered, especially if one is repairing someone else’s vehicle. Thank you again.
You're are very welcome, I'm glad that you found it helpful. I feel the same thoughts as you've explained. Getting the metal stripped clean and sealed up is the best chance it has to last a long time. Thanks for watching, and stayed tuned for the final result. It is amazing how far this truck has come!
Ive been dreaming of doing this to my truck. Ive got a couple welders, now... and a tall tank of argon. Just need a plasma cutter and some thick steel.
Absolutely, I am lucky that I can remove the bed for the extra room. Anywhere under the cab though is going to be tricky. Good luck with your Sequoia frame Andrew 👍
Most home builders can weld (think they can). But the penetration depth of the weld is terra incognita for them. It is often overseen. The weld lays mostly superficial and that line is nicely polished with the grinder. When you section it, probably half of the steel gauge is connected to the other plate. The welding upside down (so the lower welds, where the torch fires upward) are especially sensative for lesser penetration depth. Half of the penetration depth is half of the strength. So beware.
Hey buddy! Good to see your channel back up and active. I'd use some weld through primer on panels that you won't be able to access to keep them from rusting again.
Thanks man! I wanted to hit it with some weld-through primer but the can I had was so old it gummed up. I do plan to coat the inside of the frame with something like that Eastwood kit.
When you are welding upside down if you do not have a welding jacket you can use some old hessian backed carpet across your body to catch welding blobs instead of them burning through your clothes and skin and if you don't want heat distortion in your work have an airline with a blow gun to cool the area can also be used to put out small fires keep the good work going
Solid advice. Thanks for the tips! I have a fire extinguisher handy for unexpected thermal events but could definitely invest in more PPE now that I am doing more welding.
Looks like solid work. Chasing thin rusty metal to get to good metal always sucks. People often make the mistake of over beefing the repair. It becomes so stiff in that area that thin, weak material breaks somewhere else. I don't repair frames anymore. I replace them. Rust free southern frames blasted and powdercoated. They look great and last a long time. Be sure to spray some type of coating on the inside and open the drain holes in the bottom of the frame!
I found the same problem of stress transfer with stronger sections.. & when cutting back: even if it looks solid today, with these thin shit frames, A year later it can be gone.
@@jeremyr7147 I was always very selective of what or if I would repair. If you are trying to limp through for a couple years or wanting it to be forever is the fork in the road. This is why I do replacements only anymore and why I travel south a few times a year for Toyota frames. Start with something good and your results will show. One of those "pay me now or pay me later" senerios.
@@jeremyr7147 All you had to say was Avalanche lol. No disrespect. Maintenance on any vehicle is huge. To alot of people they are appliances, much like a toaster, a throw away item.
I've got this same project coming up, inside the hollow box it would be best to add some stock that's shaped like snow fence stakes, or stop sign type stock and plug weld it in, then cap it all off with the patterned plates. This inside material will help with torsion factors and everything else. Adds a little weight, but will be bullet proof once it's all tied together. I'm not being negative, I just believe in overkill since your going through the effort.
It sounds like you have a good plan on how you want to fix up your next project. That would definitely beef things up and I can't say that I have ever seen a frame built that way before. I'm just trying to build my truck a little better than the good Ole factory Toyota spec. Aside from the rusting issues in my region, these are well built and highly reliable vehicles. I don't plan to build this into a rock bouncing offroad machine so it should suffice.
This type of work is called "fishplate" repair. The spot welds are a good idea but my opinion would be less holes and larger slotted holes for good penetration. Also stitch welds along top and bottom(40% or so) and no welds on vertical sections. Silicone chalk liberally before undercoating. There is whole bunch of more rules for frame extensions. Good job none the less!
A fish plate is a "reinforcement plate" but they are used when joining two structures together. What I did was add a thin plate over the existing frame member that was intact. I do agree with the slotting though. It was easier for me to drill holes than create a series of slots. Many vehicles are welded together using a slotted attaching joint. Thanks for the advice!
For what it's worth, if you have a lift, it's worth the time investment to lift the cab off the frame to get at the repair areas better. Rear cab bolts are a royal pain to remove, but the access you gain to the areas that need to be repaired is worth the time to remove the cab. I ran taps through the cab mounts before dropping the cab back onto the frame, so re mounting the cab was a piece of cake.
Now that the ball is rolling on this project, I may dive deeper into the frame work. Pulling the cab off will likely be in my future as I continue on. Oh how I loathe the rusty fasteners!
No need to pull cab 😮 in my opinion and after dozens of frame repairs. Leave cab mounts on but weld temporary legs from cab mount brackets to floor then cut cab mount bracket from frame . The cab is sitting on the floor in exact position in needs to be. Repair frame then reweld cab mount to frame and cut off temporary leg. 😊
@@PostRt I wish I had a solution for my Tundra. I've got rust on the passenger's side around the wheel area. I'm okay with caulking...not bad with a hot glue gun.....But I don't weld. I've been looking for used frames.
@@Dancing_Alone_wRentals I'd recommend having a shop evaluate the truck for damage. If that is not an option, try hammering along the frame for soft spots to see what is good or bad. You could look up the Auto Rust Company as they make Safety Cap repair sections for frames but they will also need to be welded in to repair rusted sections. Ultimately, a frame replacement with a good used frame would be the best option. The cost is of that is going to be high and will likely be more than finding another truck with a good frame. Hopefully this helps
You can do it however you would like. I coated all of the metal. Then I used internal frame coating on top of that. When I am all done, I plan to also spray a coating like fluid film on top. Three layers of protection.
Excellent, excellent video, I own a 2012 GMC sierra and discovered frame rotting on the inner side of the frame, I wanted to see how you make frame repairs, I'm very impressed with your work, I only have 1 question, what kind of welder are you using??? If you could tell me I would appreciate it, grate video very informative and not a short video either, thank you. Verne Johnson 😊
I have a 200 amp MIG welder and a 210 amp TIG welder. I have been mostly using the MIG and 0.035" wire. I wouldn't recommend using a 110-volt machine for this kind of work.
Great job!! You must live up in the rust belt!! Isn’t this a shame what happens to your investment from All the salt and environment we have in the northeast! Makes one wonder if the government does this on purpose when they manipulate the weather, using Haarp, but we won’t go down that rabbit hole cause I don’t want to be a conspiracist! But I bet the car manufacturers and governments are all in this together!! Keep up the great work good for another 17 years as long as the engine stays good!
Oh yeah, salt-tastic around here! It is a sad thing that I spend a lot of coin trying to wash the salt off throughout the winter and it seems helpless. This truck will be getting a copious amount of protection after it is finished.
Do you have a shop? if so where are you located? id like to bring in my 02 prerunner double cab tacoma for rust repair. the rear half of the frame needs patched because of rust
No shop. I just did this in my spare time, and I'm glad that I was able to get my Tacoma back on the road. It is stronger than ever and looking great now. If you need frame repair, see if a local shop could get you a quote. It seems that most places will charge more to repair than the vehicle is worth. Finding a complete frame to swap can be hard to find and costly as well. Hopefully, you can find a place to save your truck. Good luck!
These videos are great. I'm about to do same thing to my 2003 Tacoma. When did you weld in the tube-metal cross bar? Was that done to maintain torsional rigidity so it wouldn't flex during welding? I watched the other videos (needle scaling) but I didn't see at what point you added it. Great work!
Thank you! I'm glad that you have found the videos helpful. I added the temporary supports before removing the crossmembers. I was especially concerned about the trailer hitch area, so I added two back there.
Two silly questions. In one of your other videos, you mentioned a grinder disc that was twice the money, but well worth the money. I couldn’t quite understand what the brand name was. Also, what settings were you using o. The mig setup? Thanks! You’ve definitely inspired me and I started ‘surgery’ on the frame this weekend.
@frankbosley5299 That is great news, Im happy to help! The grinding discs are PFERD CC-GRIND. All MIG machines will run a bit differently, and I'm jogging my memory, but I believe my settings were around 18.6-19.0 volts and around 300IPM. I'd double-check your machines quick reference chart to get you started and tweak the settings a bit as needed.
Ime doing similar repairs, after all the time doing reinforcements. the next weak point of the frame will break in a short time. The repairs are much stronger than original frame design and will force all the stress to the next weak point of the original frame - wherever it is.. crossmember crack off or something.
I'm about to do this on my Hilux the chassis is just as bad if not worse 🤦 on the original frame there's a radius on 4 sides of the boxed sections sort of 2 c sections welded together do you keep that profile can't see in the video ps one of not the best guides on here are you going to epoxy paint after wards was the outside frame pitted badly are you cutting it out to thanks from UK 👍
I know exactly what you are referring to, and I did talk about it a bit in one of my earlier videos. The frame is two pieces pressed and welded together, like you mentioned. There are dimpled vee areas that appear to be a stopper for aligning the two sections before the factory welds were done. I hammer-formed a radius into one of the lower sections to match the profile of the original frame. The outer face of my frame is not that badly pitted and still has a good amount of thickness remaining. I chose to add the inner plates to reinforce those outer sections. That way, the frame could be used as a kind of placeholder jig. The inner face, being completely new, finished it off and boxed it in. So far, I haven't had to form much radius on the repairs. Here in the USA, we have a well-known company called Eastwood that sells a large variety of coating products. I haven't fully decided what I will be using yet to protect this truck frame, but I am leaning towards their products.
One more thing, since the radius area of my frame wasn't rusted too bad, I cut a clean straight line just past that area for the new plates to join up. I ground a bevel along the butt joint to ensure full penatration of the weld joining the new repair piece to the original framework. I hope this helps.
That chrome bumper is rusted out and in dire need of replacement so I'm not too worried about it. I want to fabricate a new steel bumper someday for it.
I would expect it to cost enough to "total out" most trucks. It is so labor intensive and more of a job of passion. If you have a buddy or want to attempt a DIY, it is not too bad. Having the tools to do the job ahead of time is important as well. It also depends on how deep you have to go to fix the issues. I've seen a lot of rust repair videos where it was just surface rust. Those people have no idea what real rust is.
Toyota replaced the frame on my Dad's tacoma for free ............. Toyota, in 2016, settled a class-action suit by agreeing to spend $3 billion to repair millions of Tacomas, Tundras, and Sequioa SUV's with rusting frames. Model years affected are from 2004 to 2008 (or 2010 in a few cases). This follows an earlier extended warranty affecting Toyota trucks from 1995-2003
They are many things in life that are pursued in passion. This build has taken more time than it has money and I already have a shop full of tools and machines to do the work.
I would start by calling a local body shop. They should be able to get you in contact with a place that specializes in frame repair work. Another option would be to see if there is a race shop or custom fabrication shop in your area. Places like that are usually well equipped to handle work like this.
LMFAO , bro has a car lift and STILL lays on the floor welding up the frame, and working on his knees and back! Not the sharpest pencil in the drawer - huh?!
Well since you asked, apparently not, Bro.... I understand why you said what you said because obviously you don't know much about these kinds of repairs. I'd like to see some of your stellar repair work because with a mindset like that it shouldn't leave the garage. Try cutting out a bunch of your "structural" frame then lift the weight of that very vehicle it up while it has been compromised. Do you like Tacos? Because that is what you will get; tweaked, bent, probably broken. Also, Who uses pencils anymore...
@@PostRt Yet the remaining "structural" frame is strong enough to support it on 4 tires - but not 4 posts of the lift! HaHa did you even think about your reply before posting? Like taking candy from a baby, gottaq love YT "creators".
Hey Bro Bro, I knew you would be back. You just cannot accept a logical answer but then again, I really didn't think you would understand how technical things work anyway. It is okay to be wrong and move on with your life. Your that type a person who gets stepped on in your real life so you put on your big boy pants, wipe the cheeto dust of the fingers, and spat your tough guy talk. Thanks for the laughs today 😆
I wish I had the time to help you and others out. Hopefully, these videos provide some guidance on what to look for and ways to go about repairing it. I wish you the best on your truck repairs.
All of the videos I have seen are nothing more than cosmetic fixes. This one included. I have yet to see one that addresses tensile strength, RMB, section modulus or any of the relevant details required in proper frame work. Throwing 45,000 psi steel at a rusted out 70,000 psi frame rail and then changing the temper of all of the metal. Replacing a smooth bend in high tensile steel with thinner pieces of lower strength steel and welded seams just isn't the fix people think it is. Perhaps the original frame had an RBM of 1,700,000 PSI and you restored it to 500,000 PSI plus the addition of scads of stress concentration points like little tabs in the web of the flange or sharp corners in lieu of large radii. But, what do I know? I only worked for OEM truck builders for 45 years. While I am more familiar with heavy duty truck frames for class 8 type chassis, the same principals apply to the light weight stuff. Do it yourselfers would be doing themselves a favor by downloading the original manufacturers body builder manuals at the very least, and reading the damn things, before doing this stuff and spreading misinformation on youtube.
@@dont-want-no-wrench Excuse me. I don't believe in doing things half asses when it comes to be basic structural members. I have seen trucks that literally split in half because some moron decided to increase the length of the frame. One was a nearly $200,000.00 fire truck where someone took the front half of one truck and welded it to the back of a different truck. Worked fine, until it didn't and broke in half. Nobody got injured but, it got real expensive for him. He's damn lucky nobody got injured when it broke.
It sure was and it has given up on me. That is why I am only putting back close to what is needed to repair it. I am not slapping on a 1/2" thick monster plate in there. Tons of people have welded reinforcement plates over existing factory frames to increase rigidity, especially when turning them into tough offroading machines that will endure a lot of abuse. When you ask more from something than it was originally engineered is when you run into problems.
