Your a man after my dreams!!! small long range FPV drones are what i live for! dnt have one yet but know it's what I need in Life. and i love how you dnt need a Lipo!!
3 года назад
Can hardly wait for mine to get delivered, think I'm in on the second batch so end of the month? It's a sweet build and I was going to just print my own and build it but it was cheaper to buy built then order everything from banggood.
Excited about my pre-order. It’s a shame you have to fight to stay ahead of the copycats. Thanks for all the work you’ve put into this design. Will you be offering replacement parts available - like the CF arms?
Great job, I am still flying the original printed one and would love to upgrade it to this carbon version, will it be possible to buy the carbon parts separately?
One point about the minimum voltage - the VTX uses a lot current at full power. If you want to be able to go lower on the minimum voltage, use 25mw, which should be enough for flying within 500m or so. You can set up your transmitter to change the power levels on switches (check Bardwell video on this). If you need more power because you are further away, you should still have decent battery... just reduce the power as you get back closer to home and lower battery
Great video again dave! please tell the people to invest in a proper 18650 charger which can monitor the Internal Resistance. for these little endurance quads IR of the cells matter the most. to high IR will shorten flight times considerably and will cause brownouts like you are experiencing. under 3.0V a vtc6 with to high IR (above 25mOhms) will induce micro voltage drops before sagging under 2.5V for a short time. after that the cell will take a freefall on the voltage. we are straining these cells way above their rating after all and expect it to deliver 4 - 5 amps continuously at very low voltages. a vtc6 can be discharged all the way to 2.5V.. but only with a maximum draw of 3Amps at a maximum cell temperature of 23 degrees celsius.
I've had nothing but problems with the rekon3 and rekon35. Thankfully, getfpv took back, cause they knew it wasn't me. Then the rekon3, I haven't even taken the maiden flight outside. It shoots to over 100c in less than a minute. That's while hovering in an ac cooled room. HGLRC basically told me to go fk myself, tough luck. It didn't even have the red zeus5 (mine was a black aio), and wasn't the usual red motors (mine was gold/silver). Just a terrible experience with rekon/HGLRC. Now I'm stuck with an unflyable drone. Smh
Awesome to see progress being made, have you tested with a 21700 or would that be to heavy? Besides that, looks like a perfect little drone for having something like the Insta360 mounted on top. Keep up the good work!
Hi, you are making any of my wishes in the FPV area. Thank you! What do you think about putting a Runcam Nano2 Split on this model? Should be doable? Thanks.
Do you have any amperage draw results comparing props and motors? I see you cruising around 12A. I am doing some testings with a lower kv motor with 5 inch prop and seems very promising. With a slightly bigger motor 3000kv (it is a parkzone/eflite from umx series, 10grams with wires, around 1304-1404 size, couldn't measure it) I am getting 60gr thrust with less than 2Amps.
Would it be feasible to put a micro lipo on there just as an emergency backup in case the battery does take a dump? Something that gives you like 60 seconds?
Cant wait for mine, ordered weeks ago. What material is the bottom 3d printed plate? TPU I hope... Also looking to buy 18650 battery and I see some say with positive end are not flush and others are flush, flush the way to go ?
Really want to get this, but you don't talk about best pairings with a controller and goggles. To someone like me who's new to the hobby, would you mind talking about that in a future video (or mentioning it in your site)? I appreciate your wizardry, thanks for sharing!!
I'm disappointed in people who compare this to a 3 inch quad built to fly on multi-cell batteries, then complain the Rekon won't do all the freestyle they want to do. I'm looking forward to getting one, so I can relax, fly around an area for a long time without bothering people with the noise, as well as carry lots of batteries for many more flights. Dave thanks for this little quad design.
hey friend excellent video!! makes a video teaching how to put gps on it creating a new serial port since fc doesn't have enough port to receive the tx and rx of the gps module
Hey Dave_C, I'm wondering if you can please help me with something here. I have the Rekon3 with the HGLRC Zeus5 AIO 1-2S. Unfortunately, even though the FC advertises 2 spare uarts, one of them is completely take up by HGLRC's "wifi chip" feature that they've added. Do you know if there is any way to remove the wifi chip on the device to free uart1? The new mini M10 GPSes that are out now would fit *perfect* on this quad. I do not want to run another softserial just for the GPS. Thank you for any advice or help on this.
HGLRC support helped me out. "Th design of UART1 is different from a normal UART. It has a "wifi" module attached to it, making it impossible to access to install a GPS. And even if the wifi module is removed, the GPS cannot be installed. HGLRC confirmed that this morning."
This is a game changer. Im not taking anything away from it but find I'll say it...version that accommodates a naked nebula pro please!!! I realize you'd probably need a step up to reliably run the Vista from
anyone experienced bad gyro with the zeus5 AIO. I have 2 and both are drifting slowly after powerup and after less then a minute is uncomfortable to keep it from the stick. The drift is especially visible in angle mode but can be seen also a bit in acro mode
ich hatte jetzt schon zwei zeus25 bei denen schlecht (zu kalt) gelötet war bei ersten wurde das gyro nicht erkannt beim 2. ist der usb abgebrochen die lötstellen waren fast gar nicht verbunden
My REKON3 arrived today. Card shows props out. Betaflight shows props out. Motors 1-3 run props out. MOTOR 4 RUNS PROPS IN. Not happy! How to correct without affecting warranty, as BLHeli will not connect?? Also, props supplied are wrong central bore so only bolts give less accurate location. Even LESS happy!!
@@DaveCFPV Nope, tried again but BLHeli didn't want to know, so JUST managed to get the motor 4 plug out of the socket past the lower frame without dismantling, and have extracted and swapped two wires, so thst is solved. Have contacted support so they know of issues, rec'd "we are very busy" reply, cynical old me thinks not surprised if their QC is that bad! Hopefully a one off not a batch issue.
Yesterday I accidentally put the battery in reverse into ours :( Looks like only one half-bridge got fried, the rest of the board survived. My guess is that the body diodes clamped the negative voltage to around 1.3 V Pay attention to polarity, folks! Put big arrows on the cell or something.
Yes, HGLRC provides them free: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4867667, link is also on the prduct page: rekonfpv.com/products/rekon-3-nano-long-range-fpv-quad
@@LudwigBrechter Thank you! Oddly enough, I was searching on Thingiverse, but didn't find it before. Also they made a extra section on their website for 3D printed parts, but it's empty. :)
@@cfusername They did not add tags on their thingiverse model, so it cant be found by seraching -.- But you also may be interested in my "18650 puller" www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914758
I think I might try to make an 18650 drone with GPS, tarsier 4k, 898mhz ExpressLS, two blade, harmonically stabilized quad with a redundant flight controls. After I have a few good builds under my belt. LoL Just kidding. I only crash quads.
Well, OK, have to say the loss of an effective voltage hold up is a downer. I ordered one but also have the parts, bar original spec motors which seem to be OOS everywhere, to build from the 3D Print version. A real shame that the full potential of the cells lower cut off can't be released (currently), as .5V ish is a lot to lose. I wonder whether an adaption of a Model Railway DCC add-on feature called "Stay Alive" would help to bridge the surge cut out to keep the quad in the air while recovered. The Stay Alive cct bd is tiny and capacitance hold up time can be varied using tantalum capacitors. I have some 6,800uF suoer capacitors which would size wise be possible being small enough and very light, and they give oodles (tech term) of time to cover all bar terminal voltage drop. 17,000 and 120,000uF are also available.
@@marc_frank I did say an adaption of. ;-) If your thinking is correct maybe 1/4 the voltage, 1/4 the capacitance, would still make a 200,000uF supercapacitor around 50,000uF and even if not linear would be a hell of a lot more than the trad 470uF?? Needs a little more thinking outside the box, Eh?
@@badraven9532 yes it does the tradeoff is between energy density and power density supercapaciators discharge slower than the normal ones, they have higher internal resistance that's probably still much faster than the batterys so it is worth a try
I can try to help, but it's impossible to speculate given the small amount of information you gave. Can you write down the specs of the model you're flying?
Disappointed. After seeing this video a learning the boost converter was omitted, I tried to cancel the order. Customer Service responded the day after they shipped it. "Sarwee!" was the response. Yeah. Right. It arrived in time to get some flights this weekend. The disappointment continues. Ships with the VTX at 25mw. I guess that helps the flight time a little. Set to 350 fixed. Jello, lots of jello. No capacitor in the box. Video is a mess with noise. Flight times around 8 1/2 minutes before it drops to 3.1v. I tried to let voltage down to 3v but the video cut out first. It needs to be flown gently. especially as the voltage drops. A little too much throttle and bye bye video. Don't expect the throttle to save you under any circumstances. This is not for beginners! Expect it to break if it falls off the work bench. It flies. But, this is just a nice experiment. I think I'm going to experiment further with a babytooth frame and use the 18650's in my goggles...
Surprising how much all the parts cost for such a tiny drone! I want one, but think I may wait until the injection molded parts are ready. I have an injection molder, but making a mold like that is not within my current means. I have 3d printers, so 3d printing the frame parts is both appealing and not as I know how fragile something light and thin can be.
in the end, you would prefer to end up releasing a badly finished drone, with flaws just to be able to sell more ... well done the lack of spirit of DIY versus the commercial ... in the end the competitors will release a more product successful and your haste to sell will just win people disappointed with the quality ... the first tests are not complimentary, the fragility of the carbon arms and the loss of the drone because it is impossible to follow the consumption, no voltage stabilizer and the gps and buzzer missing ...
the 250g limit is severely damaging the novice drone market? Promoting intentionally crippled drone is not making any changes. Long range with low power analog VTX is non sense comedy~
