Well done. I installed their 6 circuit model 5 years ago and recently upgraded to this 10 circuit model modified to all single pole circuits. Our heat is natural gas, hot water is tankless natural gas. We have a full basement that remains cool during the summer so we don't need the A/C. We cook with the microwave oven, convection oven, propane stove and grill so the electric range is not connected. I also prefer this method over an interlock kit but the interlock kit is safe if you pay attention to operation and not overloading the generator. Thanks again for your review.
Happy Friday and thanks for sharing. The great thing about both the manual transfer switch and interlock switch, is having a verity of ways to safely use a portable generator to power essential things in your house, during a power outage.
I have installed both interlocks and transfer switches. Just to add to what you said. The transfer switch is more user friendly for people that are not familiar home electric. The transfer switch has a lot of features that an interlock kit alone doesn't have. For example, with an interlock kit you need to add your own watt meter and power back alarm system since you won't know if power is restored. But those features are not necessary. The down fall of the transfer switch is if your home is not wired with breakers that mirror your transfer switch. For example, my home has mostly 20 amp breakers and most transfer switches is wired with mostly 15 amp breakers and two 20 amp breakers. Also, if you need 220 and the transfer switch you use two spots on your transfer switch. What you left out on your cost estimate is the cost of the wire and clamps from your transfer switch to the exterior box. The interlock kit is better because you can run your whole house or part of your house. For example if you plan to run one room on the transfer switch and a tree falls into that room you are kind of out of luck. So you can safety plan and huddle in any part of the home with the interlock kit. However, I do suggest the transfer switch in 3 applications. First what is the comfortable of the home owner can they operate the panel with ease after it's labeled properly? Second, an interlock kit requires room in the box to add a double pole breaker... Well if you got no room in the box you really can't do the interlock without first adding a sub panel or upgrading your electric service.... and it's not worth it at that point. The third application where the transfer switch is better is on OLD panels that you can't find an interlock kit. Old homes have old boxes and they don't make interlocks for them. However, the transfer switch is universal. So, I find myself installing transfer switches when I they don't make them for a panel or there is no room. Usually after I relabel a box and color code them anyone can work an interlock kit because it is also as simple as the transfer switch but the installer or homeowner needs to take the time to label things right. At the end of the day both are good and serve the same purpose but they and I'd be happy to have either one in a power outage over nothing.
Hey thanks for all this great info. As to not including the price of the wires to the inlet box, it was only like $5. Didn't think I had to say that since the price will very, depending on the length of the wires. Our transfer switch can have all 20 amp circuits. I replaced three ,of the 15 amp circuits, with 20 amp circuits to match that circuit in the main control panel. You mentioned if a room got damaged by a tree and you can't use that room anymore, your out of luck. The transfer switch works just like the main control panel. You can have all the switches on or only a few and it wouldn't cause any issues.
Such a great, thorough explanation of all this. It helped me understand the transfer switch so much better. I now feel more comfortable about the transfer switch that we are getting soon. Thx so much!!!
New sub with this video. You helped me understand a lot about this option. I’m going to go this option rather than the interlock. I am going to put my inlet receptacle directly into the transfer switch where that cover plate is. I’ll be plugging in 7200 watt EcoFlow battery as my backup power to transfer sw as HOA will not approve portable gen. Not what I wanted to do but there are some nice advantages.
Thanks for subscribing. We now have a Ecoflow DP main unit, connected to our Transfer Switch. (We still have and use our generator) The Power Station is just an add on, as it has abilities our generator doesn't have. It works great. I'm working on a detailed video of our set up and DP unit testing. Keep your eyes out for it.
Great video! I was thinking about going with the interlock switch but you have pointed some really good points in favor of this transfer switch. Great tip on using a razor on the siding for a better fit too. Thank you!
I'm running solar with my reliance switch. My all in one inverter accepts the generator input to charge my battery. When there's no solar the generator can charge the battery and or run loads. The reliance method allows the option of shutting off the solar and returning commercial power. It's nice and low budget.
Thanks for letting us know. I've really enjoyed using ours. We now have a Power Station, working with our Generator, that can be connected to this Transfer Switch. I still feel that this Manual Transfer Switch is the best, in terms of flexibility, being able to use different power sources to power the circuits. It's a universal unit and not brand specific. Like some of the transfer switches, that you can buy to work with different Power Stations/Solar Generators. Those type of Transfer Switches can only work with that unit.
I bought a Reliance 510C, my panel is mounted flush and I ordered a flush kit for the switch, I understood everything you said about the wiring except how to hard wire the unit. But I guess it will be self-explanatory when I open it up.
The included instructions. Do a good job explaining how to connect it to your main panel. Also, there are some good RU-vid videos I watched showing how to hook it up.
Can you take off the goldish colored piece locking in the 30 amp double breaker line/gen switch so I can take the breakers out and make them singles? Thanks
Great video. I have same transfer switch. One of my wattage meters ( right one) shows that it has wattage running through it even when I don’t have generator
Hum, is the extension cord connected to the generator and/or inlet box? Which position is the toggle switch (Gen, off, line)? I would check the transfer switch wires below the fuses and main panel to see if any wires are touching each other or connected wrong. You can test the wires in the transfer switch with a multi-meter.
@@Pk3_Garage no the extension is not connected. And the toggles are on line. I have test run my home on generator power several times and have not had any issues. Just curious why amp meter shows around 500 watts when not connected to the generator
So, I've been thinking over the past few months, on how I could power the other five circuits, that aren't connected to our 10 circuit transfer switch. I decided to install a second six circuit manual transfer switch. You might be thinking, good idea, but how with only one generator. Well, as you know, you can buy the entire kit that includes the transfer switch, 10 ft. power cord and inlet box. On our generator, we have a 120 volts, three prong outlet and a 120/240 volts, four prong outlet. (Each outlet has it's own 30 amp breaker) The additional five circuits I want to run, only use about 800 watts max. So, I'm going to connect the six circuit transfer switch, to the other five circuits. I will use the three prong 120 volts outlet, to power those circuits. All I need to purchase is another 30 amp extension cord and three prong to four prong adaptor. I'll post a video of my set up after I install it. Now, we can run everything in our house and our kids will have power in their rooms.
@@trifln8434 No offense, but you being an electrician, doesn't mean you are correct. Why not explain to us, as an electrician, why you feel an interlock switch is better. Your answer might be helpful to someone.
@@Pk3_Garage the generator only supplies 50 amps to begin with, when using 6/3 extension cord that’s rated for 50 amps then why not just run one cord from the generator to a plug, then from the plug to the panel. Path of least resistance my friend. Your not doing any favors for the generator by splitting it up between a 30 and a 50, there is still only so many watts available, that are all available on a 50 amp plug Plus I’d be willing to bet it’s very unsafe to run 2 SEPARATE LINES, to only 1 LOAD, there is a ton of room for error there. I’m not saying it won’t work what I’m saying is it’s unsafe and overkill and not the professional way it would be done. Your literally setting it up to have 2 separate 240v. Circuits to power one busbar, if something goes bad with the transfer switches then you will experience a very large BOOM when 2 separate 240 v. (30A & 50A) circuits meet each other inside your main panel. I’m telling ya man... 1 50 amp generator=1 interlock kit. Don’t overthink it
Oh one more thing, if you have an upgraded electrical service with 2 separate main panels then I believe it would be safer. But for one 200 amp main, no way man!!
@@trifln8434 - Thanks for your reply. In reading through your response, you mention a 30 and 50 amp circuit. (Which I never said we had) In my reply, I did say we had two 240 volts outlets, which was a typo. (I since corrected this info.) We have a three prong 120 volts outlet and a four prong, 120/240 volts outlet. (Each outlet has a 30 amp circuit breaker) We already have a manual, 10 circuit transfer switch. I use a 10 gauge power cord for the 120/240 volts outlet. I've installed a second, six circuit manual transfer switch, that I use another 10 gauge power cord, for the 120 volts outlet. I assure you in doing my research, that this is safe and legal. Both switches are manual and not automatic. Also, our generator is a Predator 9000/7250 watts, which has more then enough power, for all of the circuits connected to it.
Hi and Happy belated Christmas. Hope you had a great weekend. Those wires are from the Power Inlet Box. You need to buy building 10-gauge: red (hot), black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground) wire. These wires are not included with the kit. Here is a detailed installation video from Reliance Controls that might be helpful. Power Inlet Wiring - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0M8sYRhEVPY.html Transfer Switch Wiring - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TKruj9BpZM8.html
Hey nice video. This is definitely the way to go pretty much fool proof. So what brand and model generator did you get. I was thinking about getting a diesel generator. I’m always involved in mechanics. I’m presently working as a small engine tech.
We have the Predator 9000/7250 watt gasoline model. It's really a nice generator and has a lot of power. I'm finalizing edits on review video of it, so stay tuned.
Great explanation thanks for the info, two questions: The maximum wattage on the transfer switch was less than your portable generator running wattage. Why is that? Does the transfer switch show the wattage used when the transfer switch is connected to Line? (In order to find out what size generator I need) Thanks
1) The continuous running watts on the Transfer switch is 8000 watts. Our generator continuous running watts is 7250 watts. So the transfer switch has a higher continuous running watts then our generator. 2) No. There is no power being registered on the watts meters when in line mode. You can check with your energy provider to verify your monthly/daily/hourly usage to see what size generator you need.
I couldn't find a manual transfer switch, with more then 10 circuits, when I was doing my research. If you have more then 10 circuits you want to use, my suggestion would be the interlock switch. This way you can use any of the circuits in your main control panel. Just remember, you can't have all the circuit on at the same time. So you would need to install a watts meter too, to help balance the load and manage your power load.
Under code you can, if you are using one power source for both Manual Transfer Switches. I installed a six-circuit Transfer Switch, like the one in this video, to connect other circuits not connected to the ten circuit Transfer Switch. If you want to see my current set up, check out my EcoFlow Delt Pro Review Video on my channel.
This Transfer switch works very well. I've since upgraded our backup system since the posting of this video. We now have our entire home backup using a six and ten circuit transfer switch. We added the Ecoflow Delta Pro Power Station to our backup system. (It can run our entire house, minus our 3-ton AC unit) I installed two inlets, on both transfer switchs, inside the house that the DP is always connected to. I'm using two changeover switches, one for each transfer switch, to switch between generator and battery/solar power. Our system works great, and I'm so pleased with it.
installed the 30 amp 6 circuit pro/tran2 from the home depot today it powered everything good but the watt meters don't work. Guess I'll call reliance but I really don't feel like reinstall for that kind of inconvenient.
@@Pk3_Garage fridge & furnace are on phase A circuits, sump & general lighting on phase B all on individual breakers powered by a 5500 watt generator powered everything fine during testing. Just noticed the analog needles don't move on either side so defective right out of the box. since everything else works I might just leave it but is a ding on their quality.
Might have to use this for the first time tonight , wind storm coming. Is it safe to run electronics such as TV and internet routers if a non inverter generator is running this?
It depends on the generator you use. If your using surge protector power strips. The size of the generator. (How many watts) How old the electronics are. For us, it works just fine. We have a Predator 9000/7250 watts generator. Have over 77 hrs. run time running our entire house, with no issues with sensative electronics.
That's a nice size generator. As long as your total load, is half of the total running watts, you should be ok. The issue with non-invertor generators, is keeping a steady 60 htz. when various loads are applied to the generator. For example, a high wattage items like a microwave or frig, when turning on and off, causes the generator engine to either surge or have to slow down to not go over 60 htz. My advice would be to test the volts/frequency using a wattage usage meter. Do this, with no load, on the generator using the 120V outlets for each leg of the generator. Then while under load, test a few outlets in the house that are running on generator power, to see what the volts/frequency is. Turn on a microwave or frig and observe the voltage/frequency. The volts range is 115 to 125 volts and the frequency 59 to 62 htz. I'm working on a one year review video showing how to do this.
So can you if you want run the generator to activate the generator selected circuits and still have the unselected grid circuits powered up ? So if I decide to use a solar generator I can power the selected circuits to lower energy bill Hope this make sense. Hey at 17:25 you answered my question Thanks
Hi, no need to touch anything in the main control panel. The ten circuits, connected to the transfer switch, are all controlled in the transfer switch.
You were already maxed on tne far side of the yellow on one of your phases. The 2 pole 30 you have on tne left still has tne factory wiring. Is that #10 or #12. If it's not the right size eventually it'll melt. May take some time but it's for sure gonna happen.
can you use a generator that has 3 prongs but an adapter that converts it to 4 prong? My generator is only 120V but all the circuits I need is 120V. I have a firman inverter generator WH03242
Yes it produces 240/120 volts. The generator has two legs that produces 120v. When you use the double pole circuit, A & B, you are combining the 120V x 2= 240v. Each circuit in the transfer switch, works just like the main electric panel in your house. The transfer switch splits all of the current, the generator is producing, through each circuit. In this case, that would be up to 120v per circuit.
I bought the same Transfer Switch, it says its compatible with generator up to 8000 running watts. I was thinking about buying the same generator you have then I found on northern tool website few people asked to reliance team that they have 10k peak watts generator with 8k running watts. So the reliance said this Transfer Switch not going to be compatible. I am all confused now, so the peak hours not going to apply to this transfer switch?
So, looking at the specs for this transfer switch, it says continuous running watts 8000 watts. It doesn't say what the surge watts is. I'm not sure how the question was asked, which could have been misunderstood. I'd call them back and be very specific to your question and then ask them to explain their answer.
If your referring to a 4000 watt inverter generator, I don't see why not. Check out their website for more details to your specific type of generator. You can give me your exact model of generator and I can do some research for you.
Hi, I have a question, I know you went through this in this video but the part I am getting confused when the power comes back after power outage, it's not going to power up the one we're running on generator right? It's only going to power ones we switch to line position from generator?
That's correct. With the ten circuits that I picked to run through the transfer switch, power will either come from the generator or utility. Never being powered by both at the same time. The transfer switch isolates the power source as well as that circuit from being feed by two power sources at the same time. (No back feeding) If that makes since.
I have the exact same transfer switch.i hooked it up a few months ago, anyway today i wanted to change 2 of the 15A breakers and make them both 20A breakers, then i got to thinking i wander if theres a max for the amps. I looked in my manual and it says 60A max combined loads at 125v. Do you know if thats 60A for a,c,e,g,i and 60A for b,d,f,h,j or 60A total for A-j ?
That's a good question. I don't have the owners manual in front of me right now, but based off of what you provided, I believe it's the ten circuits combined. 60A @ 125v = 7500 watts. But here's the thing, I replaced three of the 15 amps circuits to 20 amps circuits. This matched the breaker it was connected to in my main panel.
Not really. Remember that you won't be using the max wattage for each circuit at the same time. As a matter of fact, you could change all the circuits to 20 amps and still be fine. Figure out what your going to be using on each circuit and how much power will be used. Then balance the load on both sides. Once your on Gen power, use the wattage meters to balance your load and make sure your not over loading your generator.
Is there an extension cord with a standard three prong plug for a small generator and on the other in four prong female plug to use a couple of circuit breakers on a 10th circuit manual transfer switch? I’m not finding the small 4 circuit manual transfer switch for outdoors in stock. I have both a small and medium generator.
I honestly don't know. If I'm understanding you correctly, your trying to use the three prong 120V outlet on your generator. You want to use an extension cord, three prong male to four prong female, from your generator to the inlet box for the manual transfer switch. If that's your question, I don't think it can be done. If you can do it, I would highly discourage you from doing it. First, the gauge of extension cord wouldn't be large enough to carry the current for four circuits. (I'm assuming 120V circuits) Second, this set up would be a fire hazard. It would be to easy to over load the cord and circuit. I would suggest to just run some heavy duty, weather resistant, 12 gauge, extension cords for each 120V outlet on the generator.
Do a search and find “ adaptor cord 5-20 male plug to locking L14-30 female recepticle “. I am using this cord with a Reliance 6 circuit transfer switch and a 2200 watt Honda generator. This cord has the “ hots bridged” so it will supply 120 volts to both hot lugs of the 30 amp recepticle plug on the cord supplied with the Reliance kit. If you over draw the wattage on the generator, the breaker on the generator will pop and can be reset after you reduce the draw by switching off a circuit or two on the transfer switch. It will not start a fire.
I apologize for the spelling errors in my answer. It should be “adapter” and “receptacle”. I originally tried to answer the question and provide a link, but YT would not allow that :-(
Thanks for the response.Eventually I did find the correct adapter. Decided to have a 15 amp inlet installed and wired to it’s own dedicated outlet; which gets closer to refrigerator without having to run extension cords through a window. Or spend so much on a manual transfer switch or interlock kit just to keep a few appliances powered.
I also have a 120 V generator with an adapter that bridges the two hots. One thing to be very careful of is if your home is wired with multi wire branch circuits (MWBC) it means two breakers share one neutral which works fine when they are on separate legs with 240 V power but when you use a 120 V only generator both legs are on the same phase and you will potentially burn out your neutral wire because it is receiving the wattage from both circuits in the same phase at the same time. Fire hazard.
Hi and I'm glade you asked this question. (Something I've thought about) I'm really not sure, since we don't own any type of Solar battery pack. Truthfully, I don't see why it wouldn't work with any type of Solar battery pack. As long as you have an adaptor, for the inlet on the transfer switch, it should work. I would like to purchase a Solar battery pack, one with over 3000 watts, as a backup to our portable generator. But they are so expensive right now.
306CRK is the mfg part number (p/n) for the 6 circuit kit. When you see 306HDK that is the p/n assigned to home depot. For Lowe's it will be 306LRK. They are all the same kit though. This is how stores get away with marking items up a little bit more than the others. They won't price match because it is not the same p/n.
How about putting this transfer switch with a solar system?.. it's grid connected so when I lose power.. solar system doesn't work.. I'm getting a generator and worried about back feeding.. will this 10 circuit work for me?.. anyone using this with a solar system?.. please let me know
Hi Mike, I'm not sure if it can be connected to a Solar Panel system. In theory, it should be able to, just not sure as to how. Maybe someone else will comment on this. I'm curious about this too.
@@Pk3_Garage thank you..I know it can be.. just don't want to back flow into my panel.. and if this only powers the circuits that I put on here.. then I should be fine, curios if using this 10 circuit or 6.. with any solar
If it can be done, I suggest the 10 circuit switch. This way you can add circuits to it later, if you don't need all 10 circuits now. You might want to check out automatic transfer switches too.
I had to quit at one minute. This guy is slow talking and ummm is the most used word. Obviously way unfamiliar with this and scared to mis speak. Do yourself a favor and keep looking.
