If you came here because I had the same question! “ if you can’t get the charging handle out”, you need to pull it as hard as you can straight out towards you”, or take pliers with a nice cloth so you don’t scratch it!, And pull it straight out🤙👍🏽 I have the 28 gauge model Very rare shotgun !! got it from my father and I just now I’m cleaning it after like 50 something years it still has the factory lube on it😳😂..
WD-40 is labeled as a lubricant but I trust it as a cleaning agent only. However, down here the cold is of least concern, it’s them 100 degree September days we worry about the most.
I watched to see how the bolt handle was removed but it wasn't shown. Mine was stuck but I was able to pull it out with a pair of pliers(protecting the handle with fine steel wool).
I have an 11-48 that won’t keep the hammer cocked for the 2nd shot, unless I just barely pull the trigger with the very end of my finger, so that my finger slips off completely when it fires. If I pull the trigger on the first shot, and then keep the trigger pressed back, the hammer doesn’t catch during the cycle and I have to do it by hand, ejecting the 2nd shell in the process and then firing the 3rd shell. By looking at the trigger assembly, I can see how depressing the trigger holds the notch that catches the hammer away from the hammer. Am I missing a piece of the assembly?
You may either be missing something or something is slightly worn keeping it from cocking right. There is a parts schematic for the 11-48 I recommend you looking at on the Numrich parts website. That should help you see what is missing or possibly worn. Also, check eBay for complete trigger assemblies as there are tons of them in the $30-$60 range depending.
The charging handle came out from the increased force applied when everything was out of sync. The action spring plug was broken and impeding the action spring from working appropriately
I've got Dad's 11-48 manufactured in February 1952. He used it exclusively into the 1980s, always kept it maintained, but then suddenly it failed to eject on the 2nd or 3rd shot. Gunsmith claimed it was dirty, so he cleaned it. Jamming continued. Dad continued to use it as a single shot, then later got a Weatherby Orion. I cleaned it, oiled it, then shot it the other day, first time to be fired in 35+ years. Jammed on first shot. Empty did not eject, but second shell was released from the magazine, causing a serious jam. Had to be disassembled to remove live rounds. Any ideas on what the problem is?
These recoil guns are all dependent on their springs. If it was shot a heck of a whole lot I’d start there. Art’s Gun Shop makes a rebuilt kit for these 11-48’s. Past that, make sure the chamber is extra clean as plastic can build up there over the years. The recoil spring and/or the action spring would be my bet and you can get both of those from Art’s.
@@macmccollum6064 good deal, definitely not uncommon. The recoil spring is likely the same way. Art’s Gun Shop offers the complete kit with all the springs for like $120
Forgive me on my earlier comment. I was thinking you had asked under my video of the Browning Auto 5. With these Remingtons, I do not shoot steel bc I’ve heard these gun barrels were not proofed for steel either. Having said that, I do have friends that have shot a lot of steel through the Remington 1100’s with no issues. But there is always a chance you will scar up your barrel with steel
I have a 48 sportsman from 1952. Went to shoot today and only got a click with a loaded round in. My slide locked up and it took me a minute to get it to release. After a new round being loaded it fired but didn’t cycle correctly. Do you think it could be the same issue?
Very possible. Check the action spring plunger and see if something is impeding that. If it’s seized up in any way the action will not retract like it’s supposed to. Also check and make sure you have your friction piece installed into the barrel ring before the barrel is put into place.
