As usual, you make it all so easy to understand. I’m currently shopping for a 11-48 or 48 in 16 gauge. Right out of the gate, I’ll order one of your kits and get things off to a good start.
Art your rebuild kit brought my dads old 11-48 12ga back to life. I also bought a 16 ga kit for my 11-48. I have it broken down completely for install and cleaning as I write this. Dads not going to believe it when I tell him I got it working. He had taken it to several gunsmiths and they couldn’t get it cycling. I don’t think they had a clue about the action spring in the stock. Great video.
That last friction ring arrangement seems to be the same as on my 1930 Remington Model 11 20 gauge. Put one piece at the bottom of the recoil spring against the receiver for which ever load setting (I forget which) and vice versa for the other. You also have to put the bevel on the one piece in the right position in relation to the other. I'm paraphrasing here from memory. I always thought that when Remington came out with the 48 series that would handle all loads with out having to change the position of the friction ring etc that was supposed to be an improvement. From what I see here it sounds like the old system was better if not more convenient. Am I missing something? From what I've read previously and I think have seen on your older videos regarding the American Browning, it is always better to have them set for heavy loads IF they will cycle light loads on the heavy setting. Thanks for the video.
Thanks man I will be ordering a kit off yall in the future, just got passed down a 12 gauge 11-48 from my late grandpa(papa). I was wandering, what screw can we use for the end of the forend to install a sling?? Please help or post video thank u
Art, I have several Safari Mk II rifles from 243 to 338, What recommendations can you offer in regards to making them more accurate? They are good now, but I would like to tighten them up, already have worked up loads for all of them. What tips can you suggest, that will tighten those groups?
I have a 16ga 11-48 that cycles rounds BUT every fired hull has the base of the shell dished in from recoil. Is that normal? I've been told it's common for those barrel recoil to do that. I'm not so sure that's right. What do you think. I reload 16ga so every hull is precious.
I just picked one up in 16 ga thats doing the exact same thing. I also noticed that it seems to be lacking in velocity. I can bust clays all day long but it wont even kill a bird at 25 yards.
I picked up an 11-48 in 16 ga that is leaving a slight dished impression of the bolt face on the brass shell casing. I also noticed that although it is firing and cycling, it seems to be shooting at a reduced velocity. I can bust clays with it but it's useless for hunting. Everything that I've shot with it has flown away like nothing ever happened. I did a water bottle test at 15 yds comparing the 16 ga 1⅛ oz #7½ with a 20 ga ⅞ oz #7½ and a 12 ga 1⅛ #7½ . The 20 ga and 12 ga both exploded the water bottle but the 16 ga only penetrated the front and only knocked the bottle over. Something ain't right with this gun. Any ideas?
Thanks for the vid. Just installed one of these kits. From the vid, am I correct to assume that the two-piece construction that sits atop the recoil spring-as that is what I have-is preferable to the one-piece construction that comes with the kit?
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