In this tutorial I demonstrate how easy it is to remove a color cast, in post processing, from an image using Photoshop. In the video, I begin in Lightroom but you can begin in any RAW editor you happen do be using including, but not limited to, Luminar, On1 Photo, Exposure X5, Capture One, etc. Please follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/anthonymorganti/ Gear & Settings Used to Capture Image in Video: Fujifilm X-T1 - New Model X-T4: amzn.to/2ZbvgT3 Fujifilm 23mm F1.4 Lens: amzn.to/2t0VnOt 1/350, F11, iso: 200 at 23mm Checkout my Recommended Gear List: www.amazon.com/shop/anthonymorganti If you're interested in Photoshop, Lightroom, Adobe Stock, and the Creative Cloud, you can find more info here: bit.ly/2zwQ0nW I use this software to record my screen: telestream.pxf.io/DMrW2 Unsure of how to price your photography? Check the 2019 Guide to Pricing Your Photography: amzn.to/2S1CiU7 All links above are my affiliate links. Please read my code of ethics statement for more info about my affiliations: onlinephotographytraining.com/code-of-ethics/ Thank you for watching!
Oh my gosh!! I'm just finding this and yes, it works! I'm a real estate photographer and do HDR.. I've ALWAYS struggled with color casts. This is phenomenal, thank you!!
Wow! This works fantastic for underwater (scuba) photos that have a heavy color cast! It provides a much better place to start than anything else I've tried. THANKS!!
Simply install Nik Collection. Go to Color Efex Pro. Choose "Pro Contrast". Remove color cast in the desired amount by shifting the "color cast" slider. Done.
Thanks so much for your tutorials. I wanted to share my go to Photoshop tool for color correcting, which is the auto feature in curves. To set up, open curves, go to "auto options" (top right drop down box in curves property box), select "find light and dark colors," change clipping % to 10% for shadows and highlights, and save as default. To color correct going forward, just click on "auto" in curves - just one click :). Occasionally, I'll play with clipping % and other color correction options. I'm just a hobbyist. This techniques has been great for restoring old photos with color casts.
By far the easiest fix I’ve tried so far. It might not be the perfect solution every time, but it’s close enough to perfect in most cases. And, it’s short and sweet which makes it easier to remember the next time I do this I don’t need to go find the video tutorial to remember all the steps I need to take! Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us.
Holy crap it works. Someone else would do a better job explaining why, BUT YES, it's different from just bumping the color temp slider in LR. Hats off.
Thanks, had a photo with a strong color cast. I followed the process you outlined and it worked great. I had to flatten and repeat 4 times and much happier with the output.
Thank you so much. I was about to return my new samyang 85 1.4 because of the yellowish greenish color cast and you gave me a quick and easy fix for that and any other color casts.
Wow mind blown, I have been scanning in old ektachrome images and they all have a tint that well they look like ektachrome. Trying this to see if can help speed up the workflow.
Hi Anthony Thanks again for another great video. I never knew about this method for correcting overcasts colors. Thanks for your great videos. Pat Hogarty from El Dorado Hills California.
Although this is a very good tip. I would not recommend it if you do an "crazy" amount of editing on the image in Lightroom afterwards because you introduced - to a (non-destructive) Lightroom workflow - a destructive workflow in Photoshop by converting it into a TIFF file. Then you reimported the TIFF again in LR. Now it is a flattened layer which can still bear a certain amount of "abuse" but you deprived yourself of the RAW workflow later - e.g. pushing or pulling highlights and shadows. I'd rather use this process at the end of the workflow than the beginning.
I went from knowing zero about processing photos to having one of my photos used by Rolling Stone and I must give credit to YOU for your tutorials for giving me direction. Anthony, you make the complex become simple and your calming voice is easy to follow. Thank you for all you do!! I always recommend to new photographers to first watch your videos. Again, thank you Sir.
Anthony I just would like to say Kapow! Thanks for making this sooo easy to comprehend,I am one of those people that has been paying for ps but am just flat out intimidated by it but I know if I keep dipping into it one bit at a time I will get hopefully as comfortable as I am with Lr.
A much easier solution that I use is select Image/Adjustments/Match Color and click on the Neutralise checkbox. Works 99% of the time. Such a powerful option that I’ve not seen many people use at all.
Anthony great job. I was alway thought to convert the pic to a smart object before I apply a filter. Should I convert the pic prior to doing this process?
Great tip Anthony thank you. About your method of saving back to Lightroom. When you used the “save” option it automatically reopened back into Lightroom. I use the “save as” option because I found that using the “save” option did not save the file with all the layers. The problem is, when I use the “save as” option it doesn’t reopen automatically back into Lightroom. I actually have to minimize Photoshop to get back into Lightroom. Any thoughts on how I can use the “save as” option and have Lightroom open automatically?
I love this. But for high key contrast images with lots of white it makes my images super contrasty - and I find myself having to fix that. Would love to see how you would handle that so the white doesn't look so magenta but doesn't change the contrast on the subject.
My cheap ND filter causes a green cast. I hope this works. This is deeper than I like to go in Photoshop. I get confused with all the layers and options in this software. Just never have had any luck in itt.
Nice tip! Would you do other adjustments in Lightroom before sending to Photoshop? Or would you remove color cast first and then finish developing in Lightroom?
Even if you don't need to remove colour cast the image looks nicer using this trick :) Also, if you just "Control J" the adjusted layer the effect if amplified cheers 👍👍
Hi. It kept repeating the color cast issue. I had different color than you on both blur and invert. I had a pink screen on invert. I would then do the overlay and back to strong blue and pink in the image. I would have to go to 0% on opacity (both times) and still have blue overcast. Is there a better solution? Thank you.
If the correction isn't enough, why not just make a copy of the correction layer? If it's too strong a correction with both, just reduce the opacity of one of them.
Please help. I took my very first headshot image on a greenscreen... I have the awful color cast outling the entire image... Is there something I can do? I've tried following the suggestions on youTube but I dont understand most of them. I tried this but it came out too warm. Can not find the balance. Suggestions please..
I have a set of images where the vetran car needed warming up to correct the colour but then the background is warm. Any comments would help. I have noticed light colours take sky colour easily.
this is good to: 1. Create a copy of the Background Layer (Layer>Layer via Copy) 2. Create a Curves, or Levels layer above the copied background layer 3. Filter>Blur>Average (your image will change to a solid color; don't worry.) 4. Select the Curves or Levels Layer and click on the Grey Point dropper 5. Select the blurred layer 6. Place the eyedropper anywhere on the blurred image and click. (the image will turn to some shade of grey) 7. Turn off layer visibility of the blurred layer (you can also safely delete this layer) 8. View the resulting image. The color balance should be very close. If it needs tweaking, you can adjust any of the RGB channels individually to fine tune. ;)
