Man thank you so much for taking the time to spread this information I'll be ordering your tool tomorrow. My wife's 2012 ESV started tapping this morning. I thank God I found your videos.
Dude, thank you so much. I ordered the pin and the vlom plug, I used this video as guidance, and I freed the stuck lifter. It took me a couple days, but I’ve never done anything like this before. I got a new Edge CTS3 programmer and deleted DOD. The truck is running like a top. 👍
You are a godsend sir Holy cow I appreciate you I just went step by step removing my intake, stood it up to take that silly cover off and bam oil all over the shop floor! Scared the crap outta me til I finished the video. God bless
These are some of the best videos on RU-vid!!! I have a 2013 Yukon with a 6.2l, 84,000 miles and no oil pressure. I have been getting ready to tear in to this beast. Probably need to do a full AFM removal.... I would really like to but everything from you.... and a shirt that is not black.... Keep the great videos coming... you do the best job explaining everything... Thanks
Thanks for mentioning a shirt other than black, I will have to consider a shirt purchase eventually here to add variety. I knew it was limited but that was all I could afford to do at the time. 🙂
So that back piece cover that’s in the way of the oil pressure sensor is not needed? I’m confused. Just want to be sure before I take it apart. Thanks for your videos in advanced
Your videos have great information!! Thank you for them. I have a question for Ya. I have a "11 silverado 5.3 lc9 with the alum block i noticed many of my vlom bolts are loose. Would that cause a oil pressure drop at idle when warm? its runs 40-50 psi cold and when warm down to 20 psi, no codes or misfires . But there is a nice lifter tap present. Thanks again for sharing your Knowledge with us all! Peace
Great video!. Can you elaborate on the excess oil and PCV valve you mentioned at 14:32 in video? Possible a future video? My understanding is the valve cover has an orifice instead of the typical check valve rattle type on older models? Interested in how this orifice works, if it is susceptible to clogging, if updated valve cover is adequate to remedy the oil accumulation issue you noted etc.? I have enjoyed your videos about AFM issues, how the system works etc. so please keep them coming.
I do want to touch more on the valve cover thing because I believe I have a solution that doesn't necessarily require replacement of the valve cover. I have also found out the issue stems deeper then just the cover and in some cases and involves the lifters. That will be a future separate video.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Pain? That was a beautiful day. What sucks is i couldn't get everything done and had to put it all back together. Round 2 this weekend.
@@mikhailbrunes915 I meant that in the respect of trying to find a good day that you can work outside this time of year without freezing the fingers off. last weekend was awesome out though.
I wish I wouldve watched this video before putting mine back together. Had a lifter go so thats what i looked up. Got it back together and have oil leaking. Looks from the VLOM area. More than likely the oil sensor. Have to remove the intake to get back to it. I almost want to start crying. Not have that cover on the back would sure be nice right about now
So, did you have to drain the coolant before you took off the intake manifold, or is not any coolant in the intake manifold. Thanks. I have to change my oil pressure sensor, and it looks like it be easier to do if i remove the intake manifold, to get to it. Thanks. Please get back with me, got to do this in a few wweks. Also would you alway change the gasket,too. Rick
There's no coolant going to the intake manifold on these. When you take the intake off throw that piece of plastic away on the back of it so if you have to change the sensor again you don't have to pull the intake. Inspect the gaskets to make sure the silicone rubber that's in them actually sits higher than the plastic surface that it's in. If that's the case the gas hits are reusable. If they are flush with the plastic they are junk.
Jason, I have a 2007 Tahoe 5.3 with 240K on it. Before I take it apart, does it have the DOD/VLOB type valley cover, or the old style with the knock sensors? On a truck this old, do you recommend doing any of the modifications? or leave well enough alone? I have a slight oil leak on the passenger rear side. thinking gasket needs replacement. I also am changing the oilt pressure sensor due to my oil pressure dropping out. I am not having any other problems and temp is normal. No engine noise either.
i saw one video were he ust removed te manifold witout takin off the injectors pretty much as a whole, would that have been easier for you or you prefer to do it the way you did?
I did it without removing the injectors from the manifold. Not sure why you think I took injectors off. I took it all off assembled, I feel this is much easier.
HEY. , I RECIEVFED MY PACKAGE FOR THE LIFTER RELEASE. THANKS. I have questions about the VLOM in which it seems under the radar, that it initiated the oil to lifter problem. Also I know DOD delete may have been necessary since it did damage but if the cam is still serviceable dont we just changed the head with new valves one or both? some shops have just been writing that off to replace an entire engine. I'm not going with that kind of cop out mechanical work, do you have a response of what steps would be considered and what are the chances of any damage. Thanks I will be using my 2007 GMC Yukon xl 5.3 for a example of a motor with about 130,000 miles.
At 3 mins and 18 sec you moved a Vacuum line I believe where does it go My vehicle had a after market. Intake I have a small vacuum Leak or can't find it. Someone please help.
I replaced intake gaskets, now when truck first starts idle is high,,1500-2000 rpm. Then it settles down to just under 1000. But if you tap the throttle in park, it will rev to2500 -3000 and stay there until you put a load on it like turning on the ac. If that’s not bad enough, when your in gear and start driving, the truck wants to accelerate by itself,,,WTH has happened? Thanks
I have an oil consumption video specifically about it. Admittedly the first one needs to be redone but the concept is the same. Just be sure to read the discrimination.
If I have a rough idle and it blows white smoke on start up does that mean I have a head gasket issue as well or is that normal for it to smoke till it’s warm?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I did see some not gobs but a little also I notice the coolant reservoir goes down some over time too if it’s not actually using coolant how does a man fix the pcv system? Thank you for your help man i appreciate it
Just throwing it out there, the purge solenoid goes on either way and will throw a code if backwards. You'll probably waste 30 dollars like me on a new one and realize you might realize you put did that after you put grease on the new one to ensure the hoses seal up and can't return it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok im gonna get it disabled in the next couple weeks then after im gonna im gonna try this and free it up so since it will be disabled it shoukd be good to go after that correct? Right now its just minor tapping not like how your previous videos have sounded
@@NORCALPYRO_ does it have the tap all the time? Have you checked for a loose rocker yet? If it has a collapsed lifter I wouldn't keep driving on it. It can chew up the cam eventually.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair honestly its more of a ticking my dad cant hear it but i can and when v4 mode kicks in it sounds like shit with my exhaust no codes no loss of performance or anything like that i have a bi directional tech 2 scanner and theres no live misfire data or anything like that... so i might just take the valve cover off and check that way but when i put the truck in m5 it runs and sounds amazing like a normal v8... i do have rear exhaust manifold bolts snap off in head one on each cylinder towards firewall. But i dont think its the manifold gasket
@@NORCALPYRO_ the exhaust was exactly why I asked if it does it all the time. Exhaust manifold gaskets will be louder at first start up then quite down quickly as they heat up. You likely just have that. The sounds like crap will happen in 4cyl with louder than stock exhaust. Just have AFM turned off in tune for that.
I was very successful with the lifter trick and mod the vlom also Hp Tuners for the disabled DoD my 2008 Gmc Denali 5.3 runs great had no issues since that's been said my service stability control and abs stays on no issues with the truck just aggervated with the light staying on any thoughts it maybe?
Need to pull code for abs and see what shows up. Might be able to pull that with HP tuners otherwise stay tuned for next week's video. New affordable scan tool I got to try out and glad I tried it.
Does anyone know the purpose of that plastic shroud near oil pressure sending unit? I'm thinking about just trimming it down to access oil psi sending unit more easily.
Getting low oil pressure after warming up. I am thinking its the bearings. I have replaced the O-ring on the pickup tube and plugged off the 2nd oil pressure relief valve above the oil filter. I have not removed the Vlom yet to check for any problems. What do you think? Ever seen this problem with out it being a bearing?
I am looking for answers to this as well. Low oil pressure when HOT IDLE 18-20psi Changed O-ring and oil pump,sending unit screen. Still low? Is it Vlom leaking or bearings. No codes runs good.
@@tnmedicjls I plugged the pan relief valve off and plugged the vlom off. It helped a little. I switched to a PF63E oil filter. This bigger filter jumped my pressure up over 20psi at idle once hot. After this change I noticed my rear main seal is leaking. Also my oil cooler lines are leaking. Even with these leaks I'm getting 22-25ish psi pressure at hot idle and 40-47ish psi at highway speeds. The filter seems to be a band-aid. But has been working great the last 5k
mine would be easy ,,lol old school 350 tbi 92 chevy k1500.....its as easy to work on like my 56 chev an my corvairs ,,new cars are a mess ,,showing my age
I beg to differ... I feel those are harder simply because of having to line up the distributor and deal with the cooling system. That's the nice thing on these is there isn't the mess, but most cars this new are not so friendly. The only tough part on the new GM over the old is the lack of wires and clips.
i have opened this Yukon 2014 XL to replace one of the lifters and found this dirt and grass what do you think can i clean this engine without taking the whole engine out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_RMEy4G3-pM.html
Clean out what you can while it's apart. When you do a flush on it you're going to have a lot of sludge issues. You may even have to pull the pan and clean out the oil sump several times. An ATF flush would be the way to go here. I do have a video on it, basically you need to fill the engine up with ATF and let it sit in idle for a long time so it breaks down the sludge. Every so often you're going to have to change the oil filter as it loses oil pressure and you may even have to pull the oil sump if this thing's bad enough which it might be. The longer you can run it and keep changing filters at idle the better. Make sure you have a fairly full tank of gas before you start because you're going to have to run this thing for probably an entire day. If it gets nasty enough in the oil / ATF is dark enough you may want to change it in the middle of doing this as well to make sure it keeps cleaning.
