I used your method to remove a stuck 14x20 dowel pin from the engine block of my Civic. After drilling as much as I could, I used a pneumatic die grinder with a coarse stone to thin the walls down until I could taper & pry it out. Nothing else worked. Thanks man.
On two CX500 engines I rebuilt, they both had stuck dowel pins. I also twisted one off. On the others I took a thick round drift or punch that was very close to the inside diameter of the dowel. I then used some channel locks to grab and twist the dowel. The punch in the middle of the dowel kept the dowel from collapsing. Used heat in conjunction. Works great on those hollow dowel pins.
I put a drill bit (the maximum size that fits) into the dowel before it gets too mutilated, and then use vice grips on the dowel. The drill bit stops the dowel getting crushed and more force can be applied to the vice grips.
Fun trick... You heat the outside case so it expands then take a can of dust off or other duster product, stick the tube in the hole of the dowel, turn the duster can upside down and pull the trigger. It should cool the dowel enough to cause it to contract a bit.
Also, while I've never had it cause a problem, I would suspect that there is a small chance that the rapid temperature differential could cause a problem with cast aluminum... But I have no experience with it doing anything bad
Well done you got there. Sorry just found this video and a convert to your channel. What we do on large earthmoving bearings where the outer race is shrunk into the housing by 0.003" to 0.004" is to super heat the race with an oxy acetylene until the bearing is cherry red in colour. The bearing can't expand as it is heated so when the bearing cools the part shrinks and becomes loose in the bore. I believe you could do the same with the dowel. Use an oxy welding tip in the centre of dowel and super heat it before letting it cool. This will tend to soften the dowel too and should not distort the shape
@@BrickHouseBuilds On the standard CX500 fork top clamp there is an M7 bolt. Only M7 bolt on the bike. Tap the inside of the stuck dowel with and m7 tap. Put a slug in as per Martyyn Wilkins and screw in the M7 bolt. Of course not going to help you now but a lot of engines use the same dowels.
Just tried all the methods in all the videos. The only thing that worked was running a 3/8 tap in about 1/4 inch, then threading a bolt in as far as I dared to tighten it, then the magic happened once I sprayed WD-40 in from the backside of the dowel hole. Grabbed the bolt with vice grips, held the other end of the grips wrapped in a rag, to avoid hammer shock, in one hand and hit the grips as close to the bolt as I could to remove dowels. Had to retighten the bolt a few times. Took about 6-10 good hammer slams before they moved. Kept soaking with wd40. But after 2 hours of trying everything else this was the only method that would work. They were stuck in the heads of a Kawasaki fd671d off of a Deere X475. Most stuck dowels I ever encountered. Probably cause it's liquid cooled. Head bolts were very rusty coming out.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Hi and thanks for the reply. Your video gave me the idea to use a tap and a bolt ! Thank you for that. I was just about to start pricing new cylinder heads. What I did is thread the tap in , then run the bolt in even deeper cutting more threads. Grabbed the bolt shank sideways with the grips thus using the head of the bolt as a backstop for the grips. Wd40 is the key . I buy that stuff by the gallon and it amazes me constantly. Some kind of solvent that loosens this kind of stuff. If you can get it to move half a millimeter, the wd40 will get in there and work every time. Don't believe I would have got them out dry.
what if you were to just keep using bigger and bigger drill bits until the thing is drilled out of it altogether? Mine is like exactly like yours was there, broke off and more or less flush with the surface of the block. I;ve yet to start drilling an am nervous about it. Another vid recommends to use grease, and hammer a tight fitting drill bit end down, and pneumatic force will pop it up and out of the block, and i've seen that work. But I don't think that method can work with any dowels that are of the teethed spring variety (as the grease would escape through the gaps in the teeth, I'm guessing
@@BrickHouseBuilds I hear you on that, I've 6mm and 8mm drill bits for it, whereas the actual bore seems to be 7mm. The current bore within the dowel is around 3.7mm. So am thinking to try a 4mm, then 5mm, then the 6mm - that would leave around a 1mm thick dowel in the bore. It all feels a bit dodge, but will have to try it. Thanks for your vid man, it gives me some courage to attempt it.
@@BrickHouseBuilds i tried it just there, and the 4mm hss bit was having a hard time getting through. There's a tiny bit of the dowel sticking up above the surface still (tiny as in 1mm high, if that) but it might be enough to keep the new head gasket aligned okay. I'm wary that if I continue to drill it and drill it, that tiny bit will be gone. The metal that dowel is made of is some tough stuff. I think i might leave it as it is, at least for the moment. Am going to cut the heads of old head bolts , and put them in as guides when putting the head back on the block. I'm hoping that that will be enough to align things all okay. I do have a spare dowels from another engine, so it's bugging me really.
@@BrickHouseBuilds let me know if you think it's feasible to try leave the broken dowel in as is, or if you think it's a much better option to carry on drilling the bejesus out of that dowel in order to get it out of there, i'm taking the heads to a machine shop to get skimmed, but i'm more or less a total noob when it comes to a lot of this stuff.
